![]() |
|
Home | Rules & Guidelines | Register | Member Rides | FAQ | Members List | Social Groups | Calendar | Mark Forums Read |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: May 2011
Location: eugene
Age: 33
Posts: 229
Trader Rating: (0)
![]() Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
sr20 s13 hatch, clean, no major body damage, silver bluish
testing waters on selling my s13 hatch, possibly looking at moving out of country so the car will need to go anyways
located in Eugene Oregon its a 92 hatch factory bluish silver with clean blue interior engine has no miles on it as it hasn't been started since I started this project, chassis has roughly 140k on it to start I bought this car in early 2011 as a shell, the person before me had blown the engine about 10 years prior and never got around to swapping it (tags when I got it expired in 01) I bought the car and another wrecked hatch and pulled the engine from the wrecked car and rebuilt and swapped it, swap was finished in early 2012, I drove and yes drifted the car for a little over 2 years before blowing that engine, the car has been undergoing numerous upgrades and work since that time and is very close to starting just not quite there yet we are gonna start with the bad because its a far shorter list than the list of upgrades paint is not perfect lots of blemishes small scratches etc engine does not run, cranks everything works just hasn't fired quite yet (fighting a fueling issue) needs small things to completely finish the swap to road worthiness (belts, overflow tank, some hoses and lines) this is not a street car 10/12k springs, solid mounts, solid subframe bushings, welded diff, by no means is its a full track car that isn't street legal or anything but I daily drove it for 2 years without the solid mounts and solid bushings and she would rattle your teeth on some streets welded diff I consider to be a bad thing I had a shimmed vlsd in it but it started slipping again by the time the motor went so I put a welded in it till I could afford $800 for a good diff no exhaust, turbo has a 5 bolt exhaust housing with a 5 bolt to vband adapter so you can run either setup on to the good lots to list here so bear with me to start the car itself is in really great shape, very minimal damage, small paint blemish's, the quarter panels popped above where I flared the fenders and the driver side fender has a bit of damage towards the bottom but nothing to horrible interior is very clean 2 cracks on the dash but everything else is in very good shape its got a nx1600 digital cluster swap pillar gauges (will need a wideband and boost gauge to go here, gauge setup has not been completed, I have a few extra gauges that will go with the car though I have water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, combined oil temp and pressure gauge, narrow band, volts some mounted some not all have sensors) center vent gauges (combined digital oil pressure and oil temp, water temp, and volts) custom mounted apexi avcr boost controller and greddy turbo timer under the radio mounted in the shifter trim looks very clean s14 front and rear seats driver side has a takata harness, expired but no rips or anything has a sub box in the back and 2 Rockford amps but I sold the subs to upgrade and never got around to buying more subs battery relocated to the trunk sunroof with sunroof cover (near impossible to find anymore) rear privacy cover (also hard to find) engine bay wiring tuck, all wiring has been consolidated, relays are behind ecu in the panel where the cruise control ecu usually sits, and all the engine bay fuses have been moved into the glovebox mounted upside down most engine bay wiring has been run through the dash type x tails welded diff solid subframe bushings diff brace megan rear arms everything except lcas megan front tension rods tein s14 inner tie rods with built in rack spacer custo outer tie rods coilovers, cheap guys cant remember brand but my tein 10/12k springs are on them drilled and slotted rotors with ebc pads and new oem front calipers new ebrake cables brand new mishimoto radiator optima fans set up on 4 separate switches (low speed for each side and high speed for each side) wired properly with relays and signal lights so you know if there is an issue with the relay AN power steering resivior and lines AN catch can setup (has not been installed waiting to buy adapters to tap valve cover and convert block vent) aftermarket side feed fuel rail also has not been installed as im waiting to buy AN fittings and lines to convert fuel system to an setup aeromotive fpr with gauge not installed see above^ mishimoto coolant overflow tank freddy intake with extra nipple fittings for other boost feed or vacuum feed things you might want to add later real hks super sequential bov t3 turbo cant remember brand not installed yet, manifold is currently being modified from t2 flange to t3 flange custom made top mount manifold originally t2 for t28 turbo having a t3 flange welded on currently braided ss lines for turbo rebuilt cas external tial wastegate with screamer pipe, forgot the size conversion harness don't remember who through, got it with engine when I bought it but it isn't a stock sr harness that's been spliced its an actual swap harness mishimoto radiator hoses 262 cams stock valve train under cams, seats have been cut and head work has been done to prevent cam or valve damage from running larger cams cp pistons, stock compression stock bore bc con rods arp main and rod stud kit arp head bolts stock head gasket (I like to keep the engine fuse up high, maintaining the headgasket as a weak point prevents damage to pistons from detonation and whatnot, less risk) tomei rocker arm stoppers new oil pump s14 sr oil pickup for better flow and a larger opening new water pump oil filter relocation kit (not installed yet) nice thick skid plate with drain bolt cut out and radiator drain cutout square g6 wheels 17x9 +5 offset plus 20mm spacers running 245s all the way around I also have 3 complete sets of 4 wheels with tires and about 8 sets of 2 wheels and tires that will go with the car, all matching sets and all in the correct sizes for the wheels solid motor and trans mounts new brake master cyl new clutch master new clutch slave braided ss clutch line upgraded bigger solid clutch fork pivot metal shifter bushing short shifter, unknown brand this car is 99% ready to go it cranks and everything works, it has spark and injector pulse just wont fire, timing is set right, im thinking its a fueling issue either not maintaining pressure or a weak old pump, haven't had a chance to check everything yet but once the fuel issue is figured out this thing will run tits make me an offer I don't want to take any less than 5k the car may or may not be worth that but that's what its worth to me pictures below, make me some offers FB_IMG_1469129271380.jpg FB_IMG_1469129292673.jpg FB_IMG_1469129302874.jpg FB_IMG_1469129327694.jpg FB_IMG_1469129338223.jpg FB_IMG_1469133295383.jpg FB_IMG_1469133302280.jpg FB_IMG_1469255821140.jpg e5a0b0676bcc7ef0a07e90c71130d49c.jpg FB_IMG_1451204531967.jpg FB_IMG_1428452301645.jpg FB_IMG_1451204551491.jpg FB_IMG_1453282981063.jpg FB_IMG_1468422812983.jpg FB_IMG_1468422818152.jpg FB_IMG_1468422827103.jpg FB_IMG_1468422831806.jpg FB_IMG_1468422843605.jpg FB_IMG_1468422872151.jpg IMG_81782661916732.jpeg IMG_81790922682794.jpeg IMG_345241273887981.jpeg IMG_345267538987932.jpeg IMG_345354294458700.jpeg FB_IMG_1469129475801[1].jpg FB_IMG_1469129463732[1].jpg FB_IMG_1469129396254[1].jpg FB_IMG_1469129387414[1].jpg FB_IMG_1469129380322[1].jpg FB_IMG_1469129346307[1].jpg FB_IMG_1469129153465[1].jpg FB_IMG_1469129130326[1].jpg FB_IMG_1469129110544[1].jpg |
![]() |
![]() |
Sponsored Links |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|