SR to LS2 coilpack help - Page 3 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

soundboy · 02-22-2014, 08:20 PM

Dwell is 5.

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AsleepAltima · 02-24-2014, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

So im still having issues with these coils over 15psi. I was running 19psi on the stock coil packs. I ordered some iridium plugs to swap out and try instead of the coppers. Also i wanted to post my coil pack part numbers are 12570616 - h6t55271zc, which seems to be from an L99 if anyone has any input feel free.

Lastly, Are the dwell settings the same for all these types of coils ? My research has led me to believe they are the same. but if my issues are any indication of a problem with the coils i can try to locate a different set.

That's odd... boost leaks?
I was running 22+ on my LS coils...

ultimateirving · 02-24-2014, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AsleepAltima

That's odd... boost leaks?
I was running 22+ on my LS coils...

Do you remember what gap and what type if plugs you used.

And it could be a boost leak wrecking my world but not likely. Also my tester is at my homies house for the time being.

Slims · 02-24-2014, 10:35 PM

Not going through all the post, but im wondering how your going to wire this in? unless you just do it as a batch fire type setup off the stock ecm. If these are the LS2 truck coils (round) dont forget to adjust youre gap. LS1s put out about 40,000 units, the trucks put out somewhere around 130,000! I think its about .25 once these are in. I know these things are sensitive as well. Wiring them up wrong and trying to fire it up can fry these things within the first or second attempt It takes to start it. Thats a paint in the but to figure out when you think they are new. If all old informataion, carry on.

AsleepAltima · 02-25-2014, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Do you remember what gap and what type if plugs you used.

And it could be a boost leak wrecking my world but not likely. Also my tester is at my homies house for the time being.

I used ngk iridiums bkr7's gapped to .029 iirc

ultimateirving · 02-25-2014, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AsleepAltima

I used ngk iridiums bkr7's gapped to .029 iirc

Thank you!! The same ones I ordered apparently.

New plugs arrived today, ngk 2667. Left at the factory Gap of .029.
Car runs so much better. Boosted up to 19.5 psi and she didn't miss a beat.
Gotta fix this stupid coolant leak from the firewall connection and it's in such a shitty spot I'm not looking forward to it.

Tldr: coils work, car runs, iridium>copper for ls coils

AsleepAltima · 02-25-2014, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Thank you!! The same ones I ordered apparently.

New plugs arrived today, ngk 2667. Left at the factory Gap of .029.
Car runs so much better. Boosted up to 19.5 psi and she didn't miss a beat.
Gotta fix this stupid coolant leak from the firewall connection and it's in such a shitty spot I'm not looking forward to it.

Tldr: coils work, car runs, iridium>copper for ls coils

That's awesome and good to hear!

BTAs13 · 04-06-2015, 08:37 AM

Sorry to bring this back a year later. But I'm currently doing the same thing and have a few questions. The small black wire that is on the grey connector for your factory coil packs harness . What did you do with that wire? And also the brown wire located on the coil pack connector? Did you end up just grounding this to the chassis along and the black wire to the engine?

ultimateirving · 04-06-2015, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BTAs13

Sorry to bring this back a year later. But I'm currently doing the same thing and have a few questions. The small black wire that is on the grey connector for your factory coil packs harness . What did you do with that wire? And also the brown wire located on the coil pack connector? Did you end up just grounding this to the chassis along and the black wire to the engine?

No problem, i troll the forums daily and saw a reply.
Just went out and looked at my harness, the coil pack connector has a small black wire that is not used, it is cut and floating, not connected to anything.

There are 2 grounds on the LS coil pack and i have them both grounded separately(not sure that it matters) one is grounded to the intake manifold, where a few grounds meet, The other is grounded by itself to the chassis firewall. i dontremember which is which without getting a multimeter out

BTAs13 · 04-06-2015, 07:44 PM

ok ill give it a shot and let you know how it works out. Has anyone tried this on a stock ecu? i have a rs enthalpy tuned ecu but im not set up for this coil pack swapped?

ultimateirving · 04-06-2015, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BTAs13

ok ill give it a shot and let you know how it works out. Has anyone tried this on a stock ecu? i have a rs enthalpy tuned ecu but im not set up for this coil pack swapped?

It will run although it's not optimal. You can have the stock ecu retuned to increase dwell if you tell enthalpy. Otherwise you can run them on the stock settings til then.
And I ran into issues using copper plugs, switching to iridium helped immensely

Kennybhybrid · 07-12-2015, 01:11 AM

So which diagram do we use?

ultimateirving · 07-13-2015, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kennybhybrid

So which diagram do we use?

Page two had the wiring diagrams that ended up working properly.

ultimateirving · 09-26-2016, 11:12 AM

Updated some crap in the first thread. I made a mistake initially and cross a wire somewhere down the line, I am assuming at the ignitor, however I have since come with a solution and posted a new picture in the first post.

ultimateirving · 09-29-2016, 02:43 PM

After being down for months, i rewired the harness and fixed a coolant leak from the CTS housing. She is running as good as ever. Using coilpacks from a 2500 gm truck, i think it was a 2001-2006's suburban from the junkyard...

LoSt180 · 09-30-2016, 09:06 AM

The wires do indeed wire straight across at the ignitor. You wired the coil pack sub-harness using the wire colors at the ecu, instead of going by pin position at the connector. For some stupid reason the wire colors at the ecu are not the same as the colors in the sub-harness, thanks Nissan. That's where your initial problem came from, it's kind of confusing, I'll give you that. But that's why you had to change the sub-harness pin wiring.

A simpler way would be to wire straight across the ignitor (or plug in a bypass, basically the same thing), then cut off the connectors on the coilpack sub-harness and splice in a connector for the LS, or whatever other coilpack you're using (VAG, S15, Z33, etc).

If looking at the end of the connector (terminal side) it goes:
S13/S14 - [GND]-[12V]-[SIG]

If you have a wiring specialties coil harness, the colors are: Ground - Purple/black stripe; 12V - Green; Signal for cylinder #1 is black, 2,3,4 are pink wires. Not sure why #1 is black, probably for backward compatibility with the S13 check circuit, but I bet people confuse it for a ground all the time. The coilpack ground connects to the back of the head, it doesn't go back through the harness plug.

09-26-2016, 11:12 AM	#74
ultimateirving Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: arizona Age: 37 Posts: 1,521 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Updated some crap in the first thread. I made a mistake initially and cross a wire somewhere down the line, I am assuming at the ignitor, however I have since come with a solution and posted a new picture in the first post. __________________ Z32 with lq4 swap Desert Street Scene \|\| Dssevents.com

09-29-2016, 02:43 PM	#75
ultimateirving Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: arizona Age: 37 Posts: 1,521 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	After being down for months, i rewired the harness and fixed a coolant leak from the CTS housing. She is running as good as ever. Using coilpacks from a 2500 gm truck, i think it was a 2001-2006's suburban from the junkyard... __________________ Z32 with lq4 swap Desert Street Scene \|\| Dssevents.com

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02-22-2014, 08:20 PM	#61
soundboy Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: trinidad Age: 44 Posts: 320 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Dwell is 5. Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk

02-24-2014, 10:35 PM	#64
Slims Zilvia Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Solvang CA Posts: 245 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Not going through all the post, but im wondering how your going to wire this in? unless you just do it as a batch fire type setup off the stock ecm. If these are the LS2 truck coils (round) dont forget to adjust youre gap. LS1s put out about 40,000 units, the trucks put out somewhere around 130,000! I think its about .25 once these are in. I know these things are sensitive as well. Wiring them up wrong and trying to fire it up can fry these things within the first or second attempt It takes to start it. Thats a paint in the but to figure out when you think they are new. If all old informataion, carry on.

04-06-2015, 08:37 AM	#68
BTAs13 Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: wyoming Age: 32 Posts: 12 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Sorry to bring this back a year later. But I'm currently doing the same thing and have a few questions. The small black wire that is on the grey connector for your factory coil packs harness . What did you do with that wire? And also the brown wire located on the coil pack connector? Did you end up just grounding this to the chassis along and the black wire to the engine?

04-06-2015, 07:44 PM	#70
BTAs13 Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: wyoming Age: 32 Posts: 12 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ok ill give it a shot and let you know how it works out. Has anyone tried this on a stock ecu? i have a rs enthalpy tuned ecu but im not set up for this coil pack swapped?

07-12-2015, 01:11 AM	#72
Kennybhybrid Leaky Injector Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ewing nj Age: 39 Posts: 69 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	So which diagram do we use?

09-30-2016, 09:06 AM	#76
LoSt180 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: May 2013 Location: MD Posts: 1,049 Trader Rating: (18) Feedback Score: 18 reviews	The wires do indeed wire straight across at the ignitor. You wired the coil pack sub-harness using the wire colors at the ecu, instead of going by pin position at the connector. For some stupid reason the wire colors at the ecu are not the same as the colors in the sub-harness, thanks Nissan. That's where your initial problem came from, it's kind of confusing, I'll give you that. But that's why you had to change the sub-harness pin wiring. A simpler way would be to wire straight across the ignitor (or plug in a bypass, basically the same thing), then cut off the connectors on the coilpack sub-harness and splice in a connector for the LS, or whatever other coilpack you're using (VAG, S15, Z33, etc). If looking at the end of the connector (terminal side) it goes: S13/S14 - [GND]-[12V]-[SIG] If you have a wiring specialties coil harness, the colors are: Ground - Purple/black stripe; 12V - Green; Signal for cylinder #1 is black, 2,3,4 are pink wires. Not sure why #1 is black, probably for backward compatibility with the S13 check circuit, but I bet people confuse it for a ground all the time. The coilpack ground connects to the back of the head, it doesn't go back through the harness plug.