What standalone ecu do u recomend?!?!

[Tyler_240]

You are not wrong, and I agree that there is a learning curve, but that is with anything you go with.

With your list of mods, I would highly suggest going IAT & MAP and ditch your MAF setup. I also converted my water temp sender to a GM unit. There is a preset for your wideband in the config. Also, with your GM coils, you can easily have the dwell adjusted for optimal.

While you can do this on other units, I can do these corrections from my phone over BT. It cost me $13.00 for the Bluetooth module, 30mins to solder a few connections, and DIY the shit, and the MSDROID App is free.

You can datalog to your phone, tablet, etc...and you get free firmware upgrades as well. While the wiring may look tedious at first, everything is well documented.

I understand where you are coming from, but don't be scared away. The VEAnalyze is a great feature, look into it. I use the flat shift and launch control features and they work precisely.

Originally Posted by ADIDASilvias

Whereas I respect your opinion due to the fact that MS is a viable option and has a lot going for it considering the price, I would not personally choose it due to the learning curve. It isn't the easiest system to implement, and requires a great deal of research to get initially set up and tuned.

MS, along with Nistune, are probably the cheapest options for engine management. Nistune being ultimately the easier of the two, and MS being quite a bit more powerful.

I initially looked at Nistune, and was all for it until I started adding up costs of the daughter board (DB), install of the DB, and software license. I have no problem soldering most things, but the connection points on the daughter board are fricken tiny and outside of my skill comfort zone, so I would have someone familiar with the install do it. I also did not receive an ECU with my engine, so the additional $100 to $150 for the stock ECU was also added. By that point you were looking at PFC L-Jetro territory, minus the Datalogit, and the PFC is a better option.

So I looked at MS since the price is fairly cheap. I read A LOT in the MS forums, and it seemed like implementation would be fairly difficult, though obviously not impossible, and my personal opinion was it wasn't something I wanted to get into. If NateMR2 feels it is worth the effort, then it is a viable option for a fair price.

[ADIDASilvias]

Originally Posted by ThePaddy

Try pricing a mistake ECU

It's a simple ECU with some nice features and better resolution.

It is more developed than a pfc

Lol, autocorrect must have gotten you. Unless it actually is a 'mistake' ECU... Probably not gonna touch that one if the developers named it that...

Originally Posted by Tyler_240

You are not wrong, and I agree that there is a learning curve, but that is with anything you go with.

With your list of mods, I would highly suggest going IAT & MAP and ditch your MAF setup. I also converted my water temp sender to a GM unit. There is a preset for your wideband in the config. Also, with your GM coils, you can easily have the dwell adjusted for optimal.

While you can do this on other units, I can do these corrections from my phone over BT. It cost me $13.00 for the Bluetooth module, 30mins to solder a few connections, and DIY the shit, and the MSDROID App is free.

You can datalog to your phone, tablet, etc...and you get free firmware upgrades as well. While the wiring may look tedious at first, everything is well documented.

I understand where you are coming from, but don't be scared away. The VEAnalyze is a great feature, look into it. I use the flat shift and launch control features and they work precisely.

I'm actually not the OP, though it seems I may have threadjacked, which I apologize for as that was not my intention. I was in the same boat as nateMR2 about 6 months ago, and I have approximately the same power goals, though I chose the R34 Rb25det Neo. I'm looking to make approximately 450rwhp initially with a conservative tune, with the engine and support mods able to handle around 650rwhp at the most. I most likely will not be pushing it for quite awhile since 450 in a street 240 will probably be plenty.

Traction will be handled by 255/35R18 fronts and 275/35R18 rears in BFG Sport Comp 2 flavor.

Suspension is FEAL 441 with 8k/5k Swift spring rates, valved by Odi for road racing.

Adjustable arms are ISR Pro Series all around (every arm available).

New Moog ball joints front and rear.

New OEM 5 lug hubs all corners

Subframe bushings are Energy Suspension Poly. Diff bushings are ISR solid.

Brakes are Z32 (30mm aluminum fronts) all around, 17/16" master cylinder, with cross drilled and slotted rotors.

Headlights are clear covers with HID projector retrofit.

Everything above is already complete. I'll get the engine swap done over the winter, then move on to interior and exterior.

If you go back and look at my list, I am going MAP and IAT with the Link G4+ ECU. I was posting my set-up to give nateMR2 an idea of the list of items maybe not required, but recommended, for supporting the HP he wants. He could accomplish the HP goal with less, but he also mentioned reliability which is one of my goals as well, and why I have an extensive list of support mods.