The Sr20/Sr22vet thread

[brndck]

Originally Posted by TEALSQUEAL

Why is no one running taarks? Better pricing less bulky machining, and you don’t have to get the head machines to run a pickup.

Taarks makes a LOT of stuff. what are you referring to? the trigger wheel that mounts to the exhaust cam and mounts a pickup in the freeze plug?

I've ordered a shitload through them. excellent product, best value available imo.

[TEALSQUEAL]

Yeah I have a ton of taarks stuff if I wouldn’t have found them later into my build I would have used them for everything that I didn’t fabricate myself.

[RalliartRsX]

I wish Taarks would make an oil pickup. I spoke to him directly and his words were "They are just to finicky to bother to make up a jig for" (imagine it with an Australian accent). I find it funny as his family business is a machine shop hahahaha! 90% of the needed parts (sans IM) I have for the swap is from Taarks. If I wasn't going nismotronic, I would also have their hall effect sensor kit........

Originally Posted by TEALSQUEAL

Yeah I have a ton of taarks stuff if I wouldn’t have found them later into my build I would have used them for everything that I didn’t fabricate myself.

Did you sell your whip??

[TEALSQUEAL]

Don’t waste the time or money get a haltech elite and never look back. My car literally started in the first 2 minutes of trying; I remember coming from other stand alones in the last 12 years from the top of the market and putting days into getting a car to start. Haltech elit 1500 has everything and more, and it takes all of the bs out of the equation.

[RalliartRsX]

I was going to buy the one that popped up here but missed out

Also, I already have nismotronic sitting in my basement and has worked very well on 3 of my previous SR powdered vehicles. I'm not down with spending another 1500-2000 on ecu and hardware. Plus John Rogers made over 900whp and only just recently switched from Nismotronic to Haltech. John Kerrs support is parramount and he already has several basements ready to start up

Haltech would be cool, but for my modest goal, not a necessity.

Did you end up selling your car or you still got it?

[TheRealSy90]

AEM Infinity is right there with the Haltech Elite. Thing nearly tunes itself.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

AEM Infinity is right there with the Haltech Elite. Thing nearly tunes itself.

I'll chose Haltech over AEM any day of the week. Works with OEM Nissan sensors, the biggest one being the factory CAS. You can't get better resolution than that.

I wish I had seen the Taarks hall sensor kit first, drilling a hole in the head was nerve racking.

[gt3071r240]

been digging, a little help would be great! My Soleniods for the VVL didnt come with connectors, does anyone know what connectors can be used or where to source them?

[RalliartRsX]

I think the S14/S15 vtc or one from a GA16 sentra with VTC can be used.

[gt3071r240]

ok so the s14 vtc connector or injector connector seems to work for the one plug... the grey one I am not able to find a match yet..

[600supersport]

I can’t remember what I did and I don’t feel like researching it again, but I’m sure Juan at Fontana Nissan can get you whatever you need, quickly.

[RalliartRsX]

Let me run downstairs and check. One sec.......

[TEALSQUEAL]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

I was going to buy the one that popped up here but missed out

Also, I already have nismotronic sitting in my basement and has worked very well on 3 of my previous SR powdered vehicles. I'm not down with spending another 1500-2000 on ecu and hardware. Plus John Rogers made over 900whp and only just recently switched from Nismotronic to Haltech. John Kerrs support is parramount and he already has several basements ready to start up

Haltech would be cool, but for my modest goal, not a necessity.

Did you end up selling your car or you still got it?

I still have it. Too many broke as people not knowing what it costs to build a car.

[derass]

Sorry for the shamless plug, but if anyone's looking for a Haltech to run their VE-T, I've got one up for sale. I know the people building these engines can appreciate quality parts. Use the $USD to your advantage!

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=649604

[s13silvia123]

What are you guys running for Fuel setups 600hp-800hp? this is my goal. 600hp then get use to the power than move on to 800hp. motor setup is on the way and planned as i'm going to use a Mazworx short block along with my P12 head. head will be completely ported.....etc.......


Injectors? E85?
Fuel pump?
Fuel Lines?

[jr_ss]

You're going to want a minimum of 1600cc injectors if you run E85. Twin Wally's or a Bosch 044 will get you all the flow requirements for 600-800. You'll need a -8AN feed that you can split into dual -6AN lines to feed both ends of the rail. Then have a -6 return out of the center. You'll need a custom rail for this obviously. I also recommend teflon SS lines over rubber SS lines. Are you looking for crank or whp?

Personally, I'd ditch the P12 head, save yourself some money and frustration and buy a P11 head to work over. CFM differences are minimal at best between the two and the P12 has weaker valves than the P11. Not to mention limited availability for aftermarket parts on the P12. Think about what it costs for P12 head alone and then the amount of money you're going to drop into it in Port work. A worked over P11 head can and will flow the same as a worked over P12, just much easier to acquire and much cheaper to purchase.

[NISR20MO]

Originally Posted by s13silvia123

What are you guys running for Fuel setups 600hp-800hp? this is my goal. 600hp then get use to the power than move on to 800hp. motor setup is on the way and planned as i'm going to use a Mazworx short block along with my P12 head. head will be completely ported.....etc.......


Injectors? E85?
Fuel pump?
Fuel Lines?

My S14 has two Walbro/TI Automotive 450lph E85 rated pumps in the factory saddle tank on a custom hanger. They feed into a PHR fuel hat with the optional jet pump which feeds the passenger side saddle siphoned fuel from the driver side of the saddle. The pump socks are at the bottom of the passenger side of the saddle tank. The fuel hat exits -8 and returns -6. I run a -8 line to and from my filter to the rail, I have a -8 rail with a rail mounted radium FPR that exits as -6 and passes the unneeded fuel through a continental flex fuel sensor before returning it to the tank via the PHR hat. This is on an LS so I am running 8x ID1000's where you probably need 4x ID2000's.

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by jr_ss

Personally, I'd ditch the P12 head, save yourself some money and frustration and buy a P11 head to work over. CFM differences are minimal at best between the two and the P12 has weaker valves than the P11. Not to mention limited availability for aftermarket parts on the P12. Think about what it costs for P12 head alone and then the amount of money you're going to drop into it in Port work. A worked over P11 head can and will flow the same as a worked over P12, just much easier to acquire and much cheaper to purchase.

P12 being more expensive than a P11 is a misconception IMO. I bought a whole P12 engine and parted it out, wound up being cheaper since the P12 comes with a CAS and the single solenoid that doesn't need a relocation kit. The P12 cams resell for more than the P11s too (I went with N1s). Plus I didn't have to buy a front cover/oil pump or the oil pump spacer. Actually, when all is said and done, selling the extra parts and my old head, I might actually make some money. They've just been sitting in my basement though, I should get on that haha.

The part about the thinner valves is accurate though. I'm not too worried since the lighter valves means I can run lower spring pressures and the N1s also have a more delicate ramp up. As for parts availability, valve seals were like $10 off of a Nissan GA16 engine or whatever, springs are same as a DET and of course it can run the same cams as a P11.

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

P12 being more expensive than a P11 is a misconception IMO. I bought a whole P12 engine and parted it out, wound up being cheaper since the P12 comes with a CAS and the single solenoid that doesn't need a relocation kit. The P12 cams resell for more than the P11s too (I went with N1s). Plus I didn't have to buy a front cover/oil pump or the oil pump spacer. Actually, when all is said and done, selling the extra parts and my old head, I might actually make some money. They've just been sitting in my basement though, I should get on that haha.

The part about the thinner valves is accurate though. I'm not too worried since the lighter valves means I can run lower spring pressures and the N1s also have a more delicate ramp up. As for parts availability, valve seals were like $10 off of a Nissan GA16 engine or whatever, springs are same as a DET and of course it can run the same cams as a P11.

I initially had this conception. However, apart from the additional issue of the water jackets right being above the P12 ports, the entry price for a simple head swap is fairly close.


However, if one just runs the P11 cover, some CBR coilpacks (less than $80 for the set with wiring harness), and just run the Taarks single solenoid conversion you get get a slight bump in exhaust stem diameter.

P12 - ~$2100 shipped to my door. I would keep the cams so no cost advantage there. The transmission (3-500). Bottom end partout ($300). Just a simple straight head swap. Total is $1350

P11 - $900 shipped to my door each (I bought 2 the last time). Transmission is a paperweight and no one wants to buy it (I ended up dropping it off at the dump as no bids in the 5 months I had it posted.....). P12 cams ($350 shipped or just stick with the standard if one is not shooting for the moon). Bottom end part out ($300). Taarks relocation kit (80 for oil block, 80 for relocation kit). P12 CAS and valve cover - $300. Just a simple straight head swap total without cams is about $1060. Total with cams is about $1400.

[Onix21]

Quick question...I have a 92 Silvia with a SR20 not turbo. What type of oil should I be running in it?

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by Onix21

Quick question...I have a 92 Silvia with a SR20 not turbo. What type of oil should I be running in it?

Blinker fluid works well

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by LuckyX2

P12 being more expensive than a P11 is a misconception IMO. I bought a whole P12 engine and parted it out, wound up being cheaper since the P12 comes with a CAS and the single solenoid that doesn't need a relocation kit. The P12 cams resell for more than the P11s too (I went with N1s). Plus I didn't have to buy a front cover/oil pump or the oil pump spacer.

If you're completing a swap, I would agree, the route you took can be cheaper/more cost effective.

In regards to dumping a lot of money into a P12 head, I still see it as a waste of money. What happens if/when internal damage occurs? Not everyone has the time/money to purchase a P12 swap and part it out. P11 heads are readily available and not 1k just for a head. I'm simply talking about replacement costs and not about initial investment costs. I suppose you're spending money one way or another, but if you can save 500$ on a head and put that money back into port work, it makes sense to do so. Especially because there are no real/substantial benefits over a P11 with the P12.

[RalliartRsX]

One of the current issues I would struggle with is the timeline associated with sitting on the gearbox and bottom end before they are sold. The market is not exactly ripe for 6 speed swap when as 5 spd is stronger and is (for all intents and purposes) a bolt up affair. It can very easily take up to several months to sell the bottom end (although it does come with a 8CW crank, which is another benefit if building an engine and using a fair amount of the P12 components).

In all honesty, properly radiusing the valves and seats will net you a fair amount of gains on the head (even with stock size valves).

One can build a reliable 500HP RWD VE for under 3K all said and done (P11 head with associated hardware and swap kit, $1000, blown bottom end for $300 with accessories, swap kit $300, forged internals $7-$800 and machine work $5-$600). The devil is in the details (larger supertech valves - $450, P12 cams - $350, more head machine work -$4-$500, etc etc. Gets expensive quick once you start to tack on all the odds and ends and shoot for 600+ WHP, which any 4 cylinder 2 liter engine you are shooting for a reliable 600WHP is NOT going to be cheap to build).

Its all intended goal. Track days, go with the larger stem diameter P11 valves (or grab a set of Inconel exhaust valves). Lighter rev happy valve train that you are not shoving 600WHP worth of heat down for 20 mins at a time, go with the P12

YMMV.

[gt3071r240]

So sort of a group by feeler: I talked to PRL, they used to make a P12 angled billet aluminum CAS cover to clear the firewall on S14 LHD when doing a VVL swap. They sold out of their initial run about 6 months ago. They said they would make another run of them but it would be 36 pieces at $69.99. Unfortunately they wont do it unless pretty much the entire lot is sold. I doubt there are 36 people doing a VVL in a S14...but who here would be interested? I would be willing to buy a handful if we can get most of the lot sold.

Also does anyone else make a similar product? My head was not machined for a hall sensor and Taarks is out of stock on their Damper Pick Up Kit. Plus I really like the idea of using a stock sensor and wiring.

[RalliartRsX]

How much thinner is it?

[gt3071r240]

I am not good at hosting pictures, but there are pics of it on page 18. it is angled on the top portion.

Looks like Taarks has a hall sensor setup that doesn't require head machining...just ordered one because I am tired of this thing being apart. Would definitely prefer the OE sensor setup if anyone has a solution.

[RalliartRsX]

LOL! So over the course of 30 mins, the group buy got canned!?!?!

[gt3071r240]

I am still in for the group buy if there is interest. I just want my car running...its been down for way too long.

[600supersport]

It’s still awfully tight with the more compact cover. Idk if I wouldn’t add a bunch of extra clearance to the firewall if I ever did this again while the motor was out (which I refuse to make happen unless it’s absolutely necessary).


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[TEALSQUEAL]

I have the taarks setup. It takes some clearancing on p11 VC.