My s14 boggs, dies then runs great randomly.

[Sterlingaidenk]

Originally Posted by collegekid

Kind of a doozie without any codes. I feel like there would be codes.

When my brothers car kept randomly shutting off, it would not want to start again (I had it towed 2 times). He had no code originally. I thought fuel, so I replaced the fuel pump and sock. Same problem persisted. Later a code finally showed up for MAF and Knock sensor. Once those were done, problem fixed.

Does your car still have power to accessories? My truck had a bad battery connection (from main power wire being pinched).

A code for the maf and knock sensor showed up when i first got the car after replacing them they never showed up again. I have power to all my accessories besides the back defrost button is messed up. Still the code for the iat shows up, but this weekend im going to the junkyard and getting a oem maf, and possibly a iat sensor. Only one thing that i have replaced that is not oem nissan, is the maf, its a rebuilt napa autoparts one. I will inspect the main power lines also this weekend and double check the ecu grounds.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Sterlingaidenk

A code for the maf and knock sensor showed up when i first got the car after replacing them they never showed up again. I have power to all my accessories besides the back defrost button is messed up. Still the code for the iat shows up, but this weekend im going to the junkyard and getting a oem maf, and possibly a iat sensor. Only one thing that i have replaced that is not oem nissan, is the maf, its a rebuilt napa autoparts one. I will inspect the main power lines also this weekend and double check the ecu grounds.

When you did the knock sensor, did you pull apart all the pcv and egr lines and ream everything out and replace the hoses that were crusted shut?

[Sterlingaidenk]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

When you did the knock sensor, did you pull apart all the pcv and egr lines and ream everything out and replace the hoses that were crusted shut?

yes I have replaced every hose, and there is no cracks. I solved most of the prroblem by putting a oem maf from the junkyard into the car. Only problems are... CEL for iat will not go away still and somtimes shifting is delayed, its slow 0-40 mph after that it picks up speed fast, but tends to use up alot of gas.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Sterlingaidenk

yes I have replaced every hose, and there is no cracks. I solved most of the prroblem by putting a oem maf from the junkyard into the car. Only problems are... CEL for iat will not go away still and somtimes shifting is delayed, its slow 0-40 mph after that it picks up speed fast, but tends to use up alot of gas.

...The ones under the intake manifold?

Like, you pulled the intake manifold?

What was wrong with your maf? Mafs fail pretty rarely, but are an obvious component that changes how the engine runs when you monkey with it, so people love fucking with it.

[Sterlingaidenk]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

...The ones under the intake manifold?

Like, you pulled the intake manifold?

What was wrong with your maf? Mafs fail pretty rarely, but are an obvious component that changes how the engine runs when you monkey with it, so people love fucking with it.

Yes I have pulled the intake manifold out and replaced every hose and gasket got new hose clamps for everything too. Im not sure what was wrong with those mafs from napa autoparts but they didn't last very long especially if i dallied the car for a while, yes it does have a air filter and everything, everything is clean inside which didn't make any sense why those ones kept being trash. Putting on a oem maf was the trick for me. Today I saw that my carrier bearing for the drive shaft is about shot too, so I might also put on a 1 piece drive shaft on it, should hopefully help the ka pull the car better.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by Sterlingaidenk

Yes I have pulled the intake manifold out and replaced every hose and gasket got new hose clamps for everything too. Im not sure what was wrong with those mafs from napa autoparts but they didn't last very long especially if i dallied the car for a while, yes it does have a air filter and everything, everything is clean inside which didn't make any sense why those ones kept being trash. Putting on a oem maf was the trick for me. Today I saw that my carrier bearing for the drive shaft is about shot too, so I might also put on a 1 piece drive shaft on it, should hopefully help the ka pull the car better.

try to keep the oem shaft 2piece design

its safer, like if you crash it will fold up instead of rip through the floorboard and impale you

Its also more likely to drive right,
In other words it seems like 40% of the time someone buys a 1piece driveshaft it isn't balanced or phased right and the car picks up an annoying vibrations

Just don't...

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

try to keep the oem shaft 2piece design

its safer, like if you crash it will fold up instead of rip through the floorboard and impale you

Its also more likely to drive right,
In other words it seems like 40% of the time someone buys a 1piece driveshaft it isn't balanced or phased right and the car picks up an annoying vibrations

Just don't...

Agree.

Carriers also deflect and absorb impact when you dump the clutch or hop a wheel or something.

It's good to have softer systems that fail more gently, so you know before it happens. A carrier is the maximum benefit from the minimum compliance, keep it.