OBX shifter woes (I searched) - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Dream240 · 03-18-2005, 04:15 PM

Okay, I finally decided to put the OBX SS in my tranny that's sitting in my garage. I pulled the old one out and looked at the two only to notice that the OBX shifter's bottom piece, the piece below the ball, is longer than the stock one. Thus when I install the OBX shifter, it hits inside the tranny and won't allow me re-attach the shifter plate. WTF!! Did I get the wrong shifter? Since the guy I bought it from didn't include the instructions, i'm starting to think I'm missing some parts. The only parts that came with it are a couple of balck brackets, some bolts, and what looks like a custom shifter cover plate. I dunno. Does someone have some instructions they can scan for me? Their website and web support is a joke. No replies. Anyone help!!

Also I'm using the stock shifter mounting piece, the piece that the ball of the shifter sits in. Is this right? Am I missing some parts?

Andrew Bohan · 03-18-2005, 04:19 PM

CONSOLE REMOVAL:
1) Remove the shift knob (twists off c-clockwise)
2) remove the console- (includes leather boot). It simply pulls off--It is held on by spring tentioned clips.

REMOVAL OF OEM SHIFT LEVER--AS WELL AS PREPARING FOR PM INSTALL
1) Uncrew 4 10mm bolts retaining the OUTER BOOT(#10) and remove the OUTER BOOT.
2)Cut the Zip Ties that are securing the DUST BOOT(#8) and turn over the boot from the bottom side so you can access what is under it.
3)Remove the SNAP RING(#11) using snap ring pliers or a good set of needle nose, and pull out the OEM shift lever. (the snap ring will not be re-installed---this doesn't mean destroy it trying to remove it!)
4)Remove the C_RING(#12) using any tools you deem necessary--(the c-ring will not be re-installed---this doesn't mean destroy it trying to remove it!)
5)Pull out the BUSH SOCKET(#13) from the CONTROL COVER(#15). (removed part will be re-used---so be careful)
6)Remove the WAVE WASHER(#14)fromt he CONTROL COVER(removed part will be re-used---so be careful)

INSTALLATION OF THE PM SHIFT LEVER
1)Place the COLLAR(#2) in the bottom control cover (where the BUSH SOCKET WAS)
2)Place the WAVE WASHER on top of the COLLAR
3)Place the BUSH SOCKET on top of the WAVE WASHER
4)Place the GASKET(#4) on the control cover (this will surround the recently installed BUSH SOCKET, WAVE WASHER, AND COLLAR. It will not touch any of these pieces.
5)Insert the PM SHIFTER(#1) until the PM SHIFTER'S ball rests on the BUSH SOCKET, making sure that the small plastic bushing at the bottom of the PM SHIFTER enters the similarly sized hole in the transmision (in the control cover hole--at the bottom)
6)Secure the SPACER(#3) TO THE CONTROL COVER using the the PLATE NUTS(#7), CAP BOLTS(#5), and WASHER(#6).
Here's how the PLATE NUTS attatch to the spacer.
Here's the easiest way I have to expalain it. If you took the Plate nuts and place the PLATE NUTS face down (nut-side facing down). Place them so the nuts mimick the bolt pattern on the spacer. For ease of installing, fasten (partially) 1 of the 2 bolts on each of the PLATE NUTS. ovbiously using the CAP BOLTS AND WASHERS. next place the SPACER/PLATE NUT assembly on the CONTROL COVER (put shift lever through SPACER's hole). Next swing the PLATE NUT so they are resting in the groove in the CONTROL COVER (this grouve was originally where the bottom lip of the DUST BOOT was secured. The nut side should face down, making the side facing up the smooth side with no nuts protruding
9) Insert the remaining (2) CAP BOLTS and WASHERS and securly fasten the cap. After fastening, check to make sure shifter moves smothely (overtightening will cause un-smooth shiftlever movement).
10)Slip the DUST BOOT (the one that came with the PM shifter) over the top (shift knob side) until the narrow end of the DUST BOOT clears the fat part of the PM lever. Use some lubricant (I used Vaseline) to assist in sliding the boot over the fat shift-lever---It is not easy to streatch the boot that wide---be careful!).
11) Secure the TIE STRAPS Supplied by PM over the top (narrow) and bottom (fat) side of the dust boot (like it was on the oem shifter.
12)Re-install the RUBER BOOT
13)Re-install the Consol

DJPimpFlex · 03-18-2005, 04:46 PM

damn the B&M was WAY easier to install. Well worth the money.

Dream240 · 03-18-2005, 05:51 PM

Ah....I see. i wasn't disassembling the socket piece. I was trying to install the shifter right into it. Cool thanks Driftaholic great instructions.

raging panda · 03-21-2005, 12:27 AM

ive installed 2 obx shifters so far, and i really like them and so does my buddy who has the other. I dont see why so many people diss on them, they work great as long as you install them right.

s14srpilot · 03-21-2005, 07:20 AM

True. If you install it correctly it will work just fine. Until either: 1. The shifter comes apart and you gotta glue it back together (Complete turn off and immediate awareness of cheap quality), or 2. You drive a car with a B&M short shifter. In the 2nd case you will immediately want the B&M because it feels 10 times better.

Dream240 · 03-21-2005, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14srpilot

True. If you install it correctly it will work just fine. Until either: 1. The shifter comes apart and you gotta glue it back together (Complete turn off and immediate awareness of cheap quality), or 2. You drive a car with a B&M short shifter. In the 2nd case you will immediately want the B&M because it feels 10 times better.

So in instance no 1, wouldn't you just use loc-tite on the threads and never have that problem? Also here's a question....what do you do about the dust boot, since the OEM one on the OEM shifter doesn't seem like it will come off without destroying it, and there's wasn't one included with the one I bought....should I just order a new one from nissan?

Vatche · 05-19-2006, 04:59 AM

so from that instructions does a shifter boot come with the obx model? im missing mine and my car smells like crap do you guys think i can make one?

wootwoot · 05-19-2006, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14srpilot

or 2. You drive a car with a B&M short shifter. In the 2nd case you will immediately want the B&M because it feels 10 times better.

B&M was way to short for my personal feel. I like short shifters to feel like thats how they should have been from the factory. I dont want it to feel like I have a short shifter.
Its like people who put short shifters on M3's, rx7's, Miatas...They allready feel damn good! Dont go butcherin it up by making each gear 1/64 of an inch apart

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03-18-2005, 04:15 PM	#1
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 46 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	OBX shifter woes (I searched) Okay, I finally decided to put the OBX SS in my tranny that's sitting in my garage. I pulled the old one out and looked at the two only to notice that the OBX shifter's bottom piece, the piece below the ball, is longer than the stock one. Thus when I install the OBX shifter, it hits inside the tranny and won't allow me re-attach the shifter plate. WTF!! Did I get the wrong shifter? Since the guy I bought it from didn't include the instructions, i'm starting to think I'm missing some parts. The only parts that came with it are a couple of balck brackets, some bolts, and what looks like a custom shifter cover plate. I dunno. Does someone have some instructions they can scan for me? Their website and web support is a joke. No replies. Anyone help!! Also I'm using the stock shifter mounting piece, the piece that the ball of the shifter sits in. Is this right? Am I missing some parts? __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

03-18-2005, 04:19 PM	#2
Andrew Bohan Post Whore! Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Ohio Posts: 8,331 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	CONSOLE REMOVAL: 1) Remove the shift knob (twists off c-clockwise) 2) remove the console- (includes leather boot). It simply pulls off--It is held on by spring tentioned clips. REMOVAL OF OEM SHIFT LEVER--AS WELL AS PREPARING FOR PM INSTALL 1) Uncrew 4 10mm bolts retaining the OUTER BOOT(#10) and remove the OUTER BOOT. 2)Cut the Zip Ties that are securing the DUST BOOT(#8) and turn over the boot from the bottom side so you can access what is under it. 3)Remove the SNAP RING(#11) using snap ring pliers or a good set of needle nose, and pull out the OEM shift lever. (the snap ring will not be re-installed---this doesn't mean destroy it trying to remove it!) 4)Remove the C_RING(#12) using any tools you deem necessary--(the c-ring will not be re-installed---this doesn't mean destroy it trying to remove it!) 5)Pull out the BUSH SOCKET(#13) from the CONTROL COVER(#15). (removed part will be re-used---so be careful) 6)Remove the WAVE WASHER(#14)fromt he CONTROL COVER(removed part will be re-used---so be careful) INSTALLATION OF THE PM SHIFT LEVER 1)Place the COLLAR(#2) in the bottom control cover (where the BUSH SOCKET WAS) 2)Place the WAVE WASHER on top of the COLLAR 3)Place the BUSH SOCKET on top of the WAVE WASHER 4)Place the GASKET(#4) on the control cover (this will surround the recently installed BUSH SOCKET, WAVE WASHER, AND COLLAR. It will not touch any of these pieces. 5)Insert the PM SHIFTER(#1) until the PM SHIFTER'S ball rests on the BUSH SOCKET, making sure that the small plastic bushing at the bottom of the PM SHIFTER enters the similarly sized hole in the transmision (in the control cover hole--at the bottom) 6)Secure the SPACER(#3) TO THE CONTROL COVER using the the PLATE NUTS(#7), CAP BOLTS(#5), and WASHER(#6). Here's how the PLATE NUTS attatch to the spacer. Here's the easiest way I have to expalain it. If you took the Plate nuts and place the PLATE NUTS face down (nut-side facing down). Place them so the nuts mimick the bolt pattern on the spacer. For ease of installing, fasten (partially) 1 of the 2 bolts on each of the PLATE NUTS. ovbiously using the CAP BOLTS AND WASHERS. next place the SPACER/PLATE NUT assembly on the CONTROL COVER (put shift lever through SPACER's hole). Next swing the PLATE NUT so they are resting in the groove in the CONTROL COVER (this grouve was originally where the bottom lip of the DUST BOOT was secured. The nut side should face down, making the side facing up the smooth side with no nuts protruding 9) Insert the remaining (2) CAP BOLTS and WASHERS and securly fasten the cap. After fastening, check to make sure shifter moves smothely (overtightening will cause un-smooth shiftlever movement). 10)Slip the DUST BOOT (the one that came with the PM shifter) over the top (shift knob side) until the narrow end of the DUST BOOT clears the fat part of the PM lever. Use some lubricant (I used Vaseline) to assist in sliding the boot over the fat shift-lever---It is not easy to streatch the boot that wide---be careful!). 11) Secure the TIE STRAPS Supplied by PM over the top (narrow) and bottom (fat) side of the dust boot (like it was on the oem shifter. 12)Re-install the RUBER BOOT 13)Re-install the Consol

03-18-2005, 04:46 PM	#3
DJPimpFlex Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Rohnert Park, CA Age: 39 Posts: 6,158 Trader Rating: (115) Rides Gallery: DJPimpFlex Feedback Score: 115 reviews	damn the B&M was WAY easier to install. Well worth the money. __________________

03-18-2005, 05:51 PM	#4
Dream240 Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Inland Empire, California Age: 46 Posts: 2,188 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Ah....I see. i wasn't disassembling the socket piece. I was trying to install the shifter right into it. Cool thanks Driftaholic great instructions. __________________ Don't mess with my monkey...he's loaded.

03-21-2005, 12:27 AM	#5
raging panda Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: seattle Posts: 105 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ive installed 2 obx shifters so far, and i really like them and so does my buddy who has the other. I dont see why so many people diss on them, they work great as long as you install them right.

03-21-2005, 07:20 AM	#6
s14srpilot BANNED Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Southern CA Posts: 324 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	True. If you install it correctly it will work just fine. Until either: 1. The shifter comes apart and you gotta glue it back together (Complete turn off and immediate awareness of cheap quality), or 2. You drive a car with a B&M short shifter. In the 2nd case you will immediately want the B&M because it feels 10 times better.