CONTINUED: It Never Sleeps... (Popups won't go down)

[BigVinnie]

Your problem lie's in the speedometer assembly or the high and low beam switch arm, I know this as fact.
In repairing my digital speedo assembly I removed it from the dash, when I did this I drove around for a week with out it. When I turned on the lights they went up, but wouldn't go down, my reverse back up lights wouldn't go on either. When I reinstalled my digital speedometer front lights went back down.
The 240sx speedometer assembly weither it be digital or not has problems with the flat electrical mapped strip and the capacitors that are found behind the speedometer gauges, "usually due to age on both models, and the fact that the production of the capacitors are cheap as hell", this will prevent some supplied "6volt and 12volt" electrical currents to run to the relays and fuses of the pop up light assembly.
I also know this in checking all relays, and fuses by using a device called a continuity tester you can buy one at any electrical store for under $20.
But then again I didn't tell you this, Nissan loses money for relaying this kind of information, my boy "Monk" works at the Antioch Nissan dealer ship as a sales rep, I spoke with a technician who is his friend also. I was told not to give out this info.

[sepulchral]

BigVinnie

so if i swap my gauge cluster would it fix it?

my speed sensor is broken and hasn't worked would that cause it?

or did i read your post all wrong?

[Project240]

I sorta have the same prob. when i bought the car they would go up/down but with a weird drag noise,now 1 is stuck up and the other down. now i really need 2 get it fixed so i can get my plates. thoughts?

oh should the light still come on the 1 thats down??

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by sepulchral

BigVinnie

so if i swap my gauge cluster would it fix it?

my speed sensor is broken and hasn't worked would that cause it?

or did i read your post all wrong?

I don't want to jump and assume. Check the motors first. Then check all relays and fuses. If that isnt the problem then pull out your cluster look for the indicated "color" wires that run to the relays from the speedometer they will be back there. Look for there connection on the circuit board strip "where it plugs in. What you want to do is trace the hot lead. so look for the ground indicated wire " ground is usually the Black indicated wire, or blackstrip with white". Disconnect the ground from the circuit board.
Take a continuity tester, plug it into your hot, and the black wire of the tester to the ground of the plug in. If the indicator light to the continuity tester doesnt work your problem is in the circuit board.
If you don't want to waste your time testing, nissan sells the circuit board strips for $53.00. It can also be the connection to the wire harness plugs check them also.
If you have a digital speedo it can be a capacitor behind the digital display.