Tie rod install clarification

[Neejay]

1.) I'll be alright by just using the locking plate (had to bend it back into place) and no locktite, right?

2.) I bought some s14 tie rods (same part # as moog), but there wasn't a nut to tighten against the tie rod end on the inner rod. Should I buy them? Or is it alright like it is? If not, is that where I should probably use locktite?

3.) If I torque the tie rod end (and control arm joint) down, wont this compress the ball joint boots down (smoosh them)?

Thanks.

[tyler240]

you should have a nut to go with the side where the tie rod end is.... for the other side just use the locking plate... i changed mine about 3000 miles ago and mine is fine with no locktite... even with some drifting on them

[Neejay]

Originally Posted by tyler240

you should have a nut to go with the side where the tie rod end is.... for the other side just use the locking plate... i changed mine about 3000 miles ago and mine is fine with no locktite... even with some drifting on them

Well, they may have been assuming that I would use the oem s14 nuts...but since I have a s13, these oem nuts wont fit on the s14 tie rod. Guess I'll have to track the nuts down...

[S14DB]

You should have got nuts with the tie rod ends. I know I did.

[Neejay]

Wait, do you guys know which nut Im talking about? Not the one that bolts the end to the spindle, the one that tightens the end to the inner rod.

[S14DB]

YEah.... you should have one with each rod end....

[Neejay]

Originally Posted by S14DB

YEah.... you should have one with each rod end....

Ah, ok. Well I'll have to check to make sure I didnt lose/overlook them.

[projectRDM]

Originally Posted by Neejay

Well, they may have been assuming that I would use the oem s14 nuts...but since I have a s13, these oem nuts wont fit on the s14 tie rod. Guess I'll have to track the nuts down...

The S14 rod end won't fit either. S14 rod end = S14 rod. You can't mix and match. If you buy new S14 (or S13) tie rods you'll get all the hardware with it. Tie rod ends don't come with the jam nut, only the castle nut to secure it to the spindle.

[Neejay]

Originally Posted by R240NA

The S14 rod end won't fit either. S14 rod end = S14 rod. You can't mix and match. If you buy new S14 (or S13) tie rods you'll get all the hardware with it. Tie rod ends don't come with the jam nut, only the castle nut to secure it to the spindle.

lol, no no no.

I have s14 tie rods (complete). I was saying they maybe didnt anticipate that I would be going from s13 rods -> s14 rods, so they may not have given "jam nut".

And that castle nut, that should be torqued down, regardless if it smooshes the balljoint boot/bushing?

[S14DB]

My TRW ends came with both nuts. Castle and Jam.

[projectRDM]

Tighten the castle nut until it's just tight enough to cotter pin it.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by R240NA

Tighten the castle nut until it's just tight enough to cotter pin it.

Sure you don't want to torque it to 30ft-lbs and then tighten till the cotter pin slides in?

[Neejay]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Sure you don't want to torque it to 30ft-lbs and then tighten till the cotter pin slides in?

That's what I was/am confused about, because the FSM says to torque it 22-29ft/lbs, but I don't see how that wouldnt smoosh the boot/bushing.

[S14DB]

The rod is tapered to get tighter as you tq down. I checked the fsm. it's 22-29 then tighten to the next notch on the king nut to slide the cotter pin in. Never exceeding 35ftlbs.

[Neejay]

Originally Posted by S14DB

The rod is tapered to get tighter as you tq down. I checked the fsm. it's 22-29 then tighten to the next notch on the king nut to slide the cotter pin in. Never exceeding 35ftlbs.

Thanks! I would have been driving with them installed wrong...jeez (already thought I was done with the driver's side). Im glad I wanted to make sure before I started driving.

So I guess thats: Yes, I can install without the locktite + locking plate. Yes, I need the locking nut. And I still need to torque to specs to the next notch for cotter pin.

Thanks a lot guys! I already ordered the locking nut for the tie rod end (OEM) along with some other bolts I'll need to replace.

[krustindumm]

before taking apart the stock end, either measure it or count the turns needed to take it apart. That way the toe will be close enough to drive in for an alignment.

Or you can always use a tape measure on the tires, i guess. I ended up doing that on the side of the interstate inroute to a drift day for a friend.

[Neejay]

Originally Posted by krustindumm

before taking apart the stock end, either measure it or count the turns needed to take it apart. That way the toe will be close enough to drive in for an alignment.

Or you can always use a tape measure on the tires, i guess. I ended up doing that on the side of the interstate inroute to a drift day for a friend.

Yeah, I made sure the new tie rods were closest possible to the oem ones. Prior to me making this thread, I'd already installed the driver's side (just gotta go back over it and change some things apparently)

What is this tape measure method of measuring toe?

[projectRDM]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Sure you don't want to torque it to 30ft-lbs and then tighten till the cotter pin slides in?

That's sorta what I meant. The pin fits when the nut reaches close to torque spec, figured he'd gotten this far without being an idiot I didn't think he'd me to hold his hand.

[krustindumm]

Originally Posted by Neejay

Yeah, I made sure the new tie rods were closest possible to the oem ones. Prior to me making this thread, I'd already installed the driver's side (just gotta go back over it and change some things apparently)

What is this tape measure method of measuring toe?

jack the car up and wrap tape around the front tires. use a marker while spinning the wheel to get a mark. measure from the mark on one side to the other, and adjust till the front & back marks are the same distance apart (0 toe).