How much more power will a GT28RS make on my setup?

[WILDACEX187]

Originally Posted by statik

I dont see how it would give it "more power" as opposed to be able to hold boost better, but ive never had a problem holding 18psi with my profec b

this is wat i've heard from people, not speaking from experience

[steve shadows]

Originally Posted by statik

I dont see how it would give it "more power" as opposed to be able to hold boost better, but ive never had a problem holding 18psi with my profec b

It does regulate exaust flow much better than Internal, especially if your moving a lot of exaust at a high rate through the head. You pick up power here and there but mroe than anything you get consistancy and reliablility in boost, something that will save your engine when your concentrating on the tach and not the boost gauge etc.

[wootwoot]

The only way it would give more power through not holding boost would be when the wastegate is open. The exhaust flow from the turbo would not be interupted since the wastegates exhaust flow wouldnt even be going near it. Problem is, 18psi on a GT28r and your wastegate is closed damn near the entire time. That dyno graph just seems iffy to me. That is a shitload of power to make on any 2.0 liter turbo car at 6 thousand rpms

[statik]

Originally Posted by steve shadows

It does regulate exaust flow much better than Internal, especially if your moving a lot of exaust at a high rate through the head. You pick up power here and there but mroe than anything you get consistancy and reliablility in boost, something that will save your engine when your concentrating on the tach and not the boost gauge etc.

yeah and now that I have cams, at 15psi (wg spring only) im spiking 18 in the upper RPM's. External wg would be nice but its too much work at this point, im hoping the profec b spec II has enough "tunability" to control this, just need to figure out whats wrong with it =\

[steve shadows]

best thing to do in your case (which works pretty damn well imo) is to get a better actuator with an adjustable arm and a fresh diaphram, like the HKS adjustable one.

Then Tighten it down as much as you can, and pull it back over the WG arm. You should be able to get a steady 12-14 psi on it depending on the wg hole size and turbo specs.

Then your Boost controller doesnt have to work as hard (actuating the solendoid bleed valve) to control the boost and youll get a more steady control of the surge and spiking that happens with efficent compressors and internal gates.

hope that helps.

[statik]

Originally Posted by steve shadows

best thing to do in your case (which works pretty damn well imo) is to get a better actuator with an adjustable arm and a fresh diaphram, like the HKS adjustable one.

Then Tighten it down as much as you can, and pull it back over the WG arm. You should be able to get a steady 12-14 psi on it depending on the wg hole size and turbo specs.

Then your Boost controller doesnt have to work as hard (actuating the solendoid bleed valve) to control the boost and youll get a more steady control of the surge and spiking that happens with efficent compressors and internal gates.

hope that helps.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...gory_Code=VSR2

Thats what came with the turbo when I got it, I suppose I could get a new one but its not even a year old with very little mileage on it. I have it adjusted fully down, it holds 14-15psi normally like this, and still does in lower gears, problem is up high now in 3rd,4th,5th with these cams, it just starts creeping

[codyace]

Originally Posted by wootwoot

That dyno graph just seems iffy to me. That is a shitload of power to make on any 2.0 liter turbo car at 6 thousand rpms

Not really....it's called a 'proper setup'....just a matter of time to catch on...

Here's a graph of mine @ 20...search my name, as my specs and stuff are found everywhere....Due to an odd injector/fuel problem in cyl one, it killed the piston, so I can't wait to see what the car will make at 20 with water injection + cam gears, as well as @ 23 psi

[codyace]

Originally Posted by steve shadows

Then Tighten it down as much as you can, and pull it back over the WG arm. You should be able to get a steady 12-14 psi on it depending on the wg hole size and turbo specs.

Then your Boost controller doesnt have to work as hard (actuating the solendoid bleed valve) to control the boost and youll get a more steady control of the surge and spiking that happens with efficent compressors and internal gates.

hope that helps.

That's how I set mine up as well. With EBC off it made 13 psi on the internal gate