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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#32 | |
Leaky Injector
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Um, if I was going to track a car I would rather have an open differential than a welded one... you're gonna slide right off the track from wheel hop if you weld your axles together man. Either leave it alone or pick up a cheap used limited slip. As for tires, if you're trying to save money the best bet is picking the right size, my 240 is on 215/45/17's right now (although this is changing soon), at the time I got GS-D3's for 90$ each, tirerack currently has them for about $135, well worth it for them in my opinion. I also recomend for handling reasons to reduce your sidewall a bit by getting wheels larger than 15 inches, I like 16 or 17 better, and in many cases you'll end up saving money on tires by moving up wheel size, just poke around on tirerack to get an idea for how the size is affecting cost. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....1=yes&place=15 Thats my recommendation any way, not sure exactly what kind of budget you had in mind. |
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#35 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Yeah they would If i was 5 lug devon lol. I thought i always saw people running small diameter wheels on track cars? Also i thought people liked to use wleded diffs on track cars
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92 Hatch, KA-T, T28, 12 PSI, FMIC, 3" TBE, EFI ECU, 440cc Inj, And more... |
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#36 |
Zilvia Addict
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Instead of being stuck on a wheel diameter, try to find popular tire sizes that also fit the 240sx (like 225/50/16, 225/45/17...). Often times you end up getting great deals (like through Tirerack) that save you money in the long run.
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#37 |
Post Whore!
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welded diffs are good for drift cars, which don't require different inner and outer rear wheel speeds, which is what a slipping diff provides.
when you're gripping, you need the different wheel speeds for maximum grip. |
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#38 | |
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you dont really need a cage. HPDEs are for anyone's cars. As for suspension, you should look into Koni sport shocks with GCs. They cost about the same as JApanese coilovers, but they have much better dampening than just about all of them according to some dynos floating around. If your still wondering what tires to get, most road racers advise against starting out with slicks. They are tricky since they have to be in the right temp, but I've never heard anyone not recomend Falken Azenis. They are cheap and super grippy.
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#39 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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So really with this coupe im getting it doesnt have a title or anything thats why i want it, i used to have it but sold it to this kid now im buying it back, anyways. I could pretty much throw one of my ka motors in there some suspension, strip the interior and go race it at the track? Do i need to have a license or anything like that?post up some vids of everysones track cars doing their work on the track
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#40 | |
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HPDE ranges from first time on the track to pros. You get a driving instructor to sit in the car with you to help you get the jist of things. He determines whether your allowed to do this and that and how soon or how late you should brake.
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#42 | |
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#44 |
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Im starting to get all excited to do this, it seems like it is going to be so much fun. The car that i am more than likely going to be using use to have an sr it it. So i guess im going to need to get a whole nother ka engine harness. Would it be hard to swap another ka back into the chassis? I want to get started on this asap as soon as i find out if im getting this car back or not. If i dont then i have to start a search for a decent s13 shell.
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92 Hatch, KA-T, T28, 12 PSI, FMIC, 3" TBE, EFI ECU, 440cc Inj, And more... |
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#45 |
Zilvia Junkie
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LS1rx7 is a sick power/handling/budget setup! especially the FC rx7.
for your project car you want to make sure everything works. brakes, cooling, motor, tranny, suspension... etc. once you get a car that can take a days abuse, you can look at upgrading stuff piece by piece. for HPDEs I would just find a set of shocks and slap on some GC coilovers with somewhat stiff rates, do poly bushings if you can DIY, then look into stripping out the interior and anything you dont need like a/c, sunroof, etc. the S13 is a great platform for HPDE stuff and can be very inexpensive to maintain if you keep your car simple and leave money in your wallet for spares (motor, wheels, tires, etc). the more simple and cheap you keep the project, the more money you have for actual track time! good luck man, have fun!
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#46 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I honestly appreciate everyones tips and help and support that you all have given me so far, I guess you could say that im still a newb at this whole track thing but i am very familiar with the s13 i have owned 6 of them by now and im only 19. I would still like to see everyone else's cars and here what they have to say so keep the info and tips coming, and thanks again
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92 Hatch, KA-T, T28, 12 PSI, FMIC, 3" TBE, EFI ECU, 440cc Inj, And more... |
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#47 |
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I went to the track with my 240 with all sort of toys and lots of power..... I wish I didn't. I was to preoccupied with going fast(I was getting up to 140mph on the front straight with a corner that you could take as fast as you want for turn 1) and using the power to get around the course, instead of using the handling and driving skills.
I am going to go back this year with my other car with basic mods(lowered, STB, alignment, rims/tires, and some NA mods. I feel it well be more then enought. And It will be a better learning experience. And then go back in the futher with my KA-T car with all the goodies to further my skills. I did my events at Brainerd International Raceway. The instructors all like the RT615, 3 of them have them on there personal cars.
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#48 | |
Leaky Injector
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so to also save money, if the class you want to race doesn't require it. dont get it. |
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#49 |
Leaky Injector
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plus to improve skill. start off small, dont do huge power mods or baller expensive suspension stuff. you want to start with slightly underpowered car, and put a set of lowering springs. go in and have fun. the tires you have stock are ok. in japan we call it guntas. crap wheels, they reach point of abrasion faster, cheap to replace to used tires, and you learn more steering control and you learn a lot about your car aswell.
so try the stock class, get some lowering springs and a helmit and go! |
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#52 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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a budget built track car. leave it stock. become a better driver instead. if you need to upgrade anything. pads/rotors, cooling system(including brake ducts, oil/steering coolers). This advice comes from my friend who is very fast in H4 honda challenge, along with his friends who are writers/editors of primedia magazines. IE mike kojima, johnny mac, andy hope among others. save your money and dont get mods become a faster driver thru slower equipment, then do it bit by bit.
a guy who has an s2k has done this same method, and now has the fastest lap times for NA 2L along the west coast. here is his website www.maxrev.net PS and if you want a track car. buy someone else' completed car. saves you time and $$$
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#53 |
Zilvia Member
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#55 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Okay so it looks like im not going to be welding the diff? Would it be best to leave the diif compleltey open, get a vlsd, or what? Would I be alright starting out tracking the car with an intake, custom exhaust springs, bucket seat and just little shit like that? That wouldnt be too many mods to start out with would it? cuz i have all the stuff laying in the garage already
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92 Hatch, KA-T, T28, 12 PSI, FMIC, 3" TBE, EFI ECU, 440cc Inj, And more... |
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#56 | |
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#57 | |
Zilvia Member
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I also suggest running 80% water, 20% coolant and water wetter. Should be enough to keep temps nice and low. |
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#58 | |
Leaky Injector
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An LSD would be a very significant improvement over an open, you'll be able to accelerate/break much better while going into and coming out of turns. I would prioritize this very highly when you decide where to put money into the car. Also what are "custom exhaust springs" ? |
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#59 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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No SCCA or NASA class requires chromo for cages. They require DOM or chromo and rule out ERW.
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#60 |
Post Whore!
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Just drive your car as is and upgrade accordingly to what you think needs to be changed later on. My car is more interesting then half the "tack only" cars on this site and I've had dude's in almost bone stock cars riding my ass.
It's skill not how the car's built. As for first mods? A good steering wheel and bucket seat are my favorite. Brakes don't really need to be changed until you feel you need more. A good pad and tire will go far when it comes to stopping the car. |
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