Advanced Weght Reduction - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

adey · 09-22-2003, 02:05 AM

Get a light weight (motorcycle) battery (even better, an Optima Redtop or similar gel cell) and relocate it to behind the passenger seat. If it's "only" a motorbike batt, you'll need a box. This way you don't need all the 1- or 0-gauge wires heading all the way back to the trunk. (save yourself a few lb right there) ... also this will improve the balance of your car -- more weight to offset the driver, as well as more weight behind the front axle, lower down, and towards the middle of the car.
-AD

*sykikchimp* · 09-22-2003, 09:05 AM

I wouldn't put a battery inside the car with me unless it was sealed like the optima's.

Maeda · 09-22-2003, 05:02 PM

got myself i lighter hood ^_^ I LOVE IT! Less body roll, and more responsive steering input, and twice the bling!

I was thinking about a optima battery, but a battery IN the car kind of scares me, even if its sealed and dry.....

TokyoNights · 09-22-2003, 05:30 PM

whatever you do dont cut out the reinforcements from the hood because it will flutter at speed even with hood pins..

oOdextaOo · 09-22-2003, 05:45 PM

Quote:

BTW, does anyone know what the 17 inch 350Z wheels weigh in at?

23lbs. according to wheelspecs.com

adey · 09-22-2003, 07:14 PM

one more thing... whatever you do, if you'll be driving this car on the streets, DO NOT REMOVE THE FRONT (or rear) BUMPER REINFORCEMENTS!! The front weighs probably a good 20 - 30lb (at the front of the car, this may help noticably in reducing understeer) but it's not worth the damage that you'll do in the event of a front end collision, even at low speeds.
Trust me, I found out the hard way.

JeromeS13 · 09-28-2003, 11:06 AM

Yeah, that Russ kid, I heard he even turned to dating 14 year olds. Apparently, they weigh a little less than the girls that are 'of age'. Man, I can't stand that kid.

hahahahahaha

j/k Russ. I had to throw that in there.

S14lover · 09-28-2003, 11:13 AM

BWAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.......perv

Grandpa · 09-28-2003, 11:20 AM

Front bumper reinforcement? Isn't that what a FMIC is for?

-john

old_s13 · 09-28-2003, 12:12 PM

Russ' car is amateur. Anyone who rewires their relays and fuses UNDER the dash has too much time on their hands. The right way to do it, is to wire everything in the trunk.. atleast its accessible there.

That no good Russ.. someone needs to bitch slap him.

Steeles · 09-28-2003, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JeromeS13
Yeah, that Russ kid, I heard he even turned to dating 14 year olds. Apparently, they weigh a little less than the girls that are 'of age'. Man, I can't stand that kid.

hahahahahaha

j/k Russ. I had to throw that in there.

no no no remember that chick he picked up at MJQ that time?

JeromeS13 · 09-28-2003, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Steeles
no no no remember that chick he picked up at MJQ that time?

Hahahah. He said it Russ, not me.

Steeles · 09-29-2003, 07:38 AM

dont forget he's got the video to prove it too!

Steeles · 09-29-2003, 07:38 AM

dont forget I've got the video to prove it too!

woot super post whore double post SPL!!! hehe been awhile since I pulled one of those

adey · 09-29-2003, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Grandpa
Front bumper reinforcement? Isn't that what a FMIC is for?

Heh heh... I suppose it can be, except your stock bumper support (reinforcement) costs 30 bucks whereas an FMIC costs more like $800.

I'll gladly take an uprated SMIC and keep the front bumper reinforcement!!

bchumley · 11-10-2003, 01:51 PM

I know this is an old thread, but I was hoping that I could get a hold of Russ, or anyone else that has done a similar project with relocating wiring/fuses to the interior. Besides the wiring for the lighting, what wiring from the driver side harness must still go to the engine bay? I'll post pictures of my engine bay soon so that you can see the look that I am trying to keep.

JeromeS13 · 11-10-2003, 10:38 PM

If you're asking that question, I'd recommend NOT rewiring your car. All you need is an FSM, wiring know-how, and lots of time. Depending on what you've removed from the car, you can remove LOTS of wiring. Basically, you just need the wires for the important things.

blu808 · 11-11-2003, 02:51 AM

Take out everything except the dash to start with. Then you will notice a rubber looking substance on the floor called sound deadening material. Take a hammer, Chisel, and dry ice if you can and spend a couple days chipping all that crap off, (Seriously if adds up to like 45-50lbs) Then redo the inside wiring harness and lenthen it so you can run the wires through the panel in between the quarter panel and interior panel for a cleaner look. Then paint the inside of your car to the color of your choice so you dont look like a poka dotted rice mobile. Then you should start considering putting at least the drivers seat back in the car. If you have harnesses feel free to cut out the metal from the inside of the car in between the body panels. The areas you canot cut drill large holes in. Also wiring is also very heavy so eliminate your sterio system, antenna, ecu (kidding), Move the battery to the trunk ( run the wires under the car for a cleaner look). Remove inner fender liners, bumper reinforcements fr and rr. ac, condensor, smog crap, evap,

You will have some holes inside your car from the rear seat. I reccomend plugging them with a welder, bondo, or jb weld.

This all may sound crazy but I have built a couple SCCA world challenge civic coupes (not hatches) and they weighed in at 2050lbs with the driver, no fuel, a fire system, phat roll cage, and a b16-18 motor. thats light. but then again they had plexi windows, cf hoods, fiberglass doors, bumpers, and trunk lid. but hey. every bit helps.

Zemus · 11-11-2003, 06:28 AM

Very nice lil right up, but people like to see #s. I know that sound stuff is like 50lb, then all the ac stuff and all that wiring, and how much to stock seats weight.

I think what we need to do is find out all the weight of the stock stuff so that we can get aftermarket lighter stuff. Like seats and stuff.

bchumley · 11-11-2003, 07:33 AM

Don,

Thanks for the helpful input. I'm already about 1/2 done with all of the sound deadening. The dry ice technique is new to me, but I hear it works quite well. I'm not too worried about doing the wiring, since I worked as a car audio installer for over 3 years. I'm considering eliminating the heater and all related parts also. Not sure how much the girlfriend would appreciate that though...

blu808 · 11-11-2003, 07:05 PM

You might want to keep your heater system since it is basically a second radiator. But you could allways eliminate the ac stuff. Also if you feel fine doing the wiring, then you should do it. Your car will look much cleaner. Also I will have my 240 finished with the weight reduction process next week and will get it weighed and post it up here. I believe the stock seats are around 25-30lbs with the rails. The stock seat belts in the s13s are also heavy.

Good luck. Luke
( Dons my nickname )

09-22-2003, 09:05 AM	#32
sykikchimp WOW addicted Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: the moon Age: 44 Posts: 6,525 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I wouldn't put a battery inside the car with me unless it was sealed like the optima's. __________________

09-22-2003, 05:02 PM	#33
Maeda Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Camp Snake Bite, CA RIP Posts: 2,356 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: Maeda Feedback Score: 0 reviews	got myself i lighter hood ^_^ I LOVE IT! Less body roll, and more responsive steering input, and twice the bling! I was thinking about a optima battery, but a battery IN the car kind of scares me, even if its sealed and dry..... __________________

09-28-2003, 11:13 AM	#38
S14lover Zilvia Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Colombus GA Posts: 162 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	BWAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.......perv __________________ She ***ing hates me ....TRUST! Last edited by S14lover; 09-28-2003 at 11:23 AM..*

09-29-2003, 07:38 AM	#43
Steeles Post Whore! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: 7th layer of hell, special pit of anger Age: 48 Posts: 3,785 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	dont forget he's got the video to prove it too! __________________ Keeping it Godzira bishes. So I murdered another turbo

09-29-2003, 07:38 AM	#44
Steeles Post Whore! Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: 7th layer of hell, special pit of anger Age: 48 Posts: 3,785 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	dont forget I've got the video to prove it too! woot super post whore double post SPL!!! hehe been awhile since I pulled one of those __________________ Keeping it Godzira bishes. So I murdered another turbo

09-22-2003, 02:05 AM	#31
adey Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Hong Kong Posts: 3,072 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Get a light weight (motorcycle) battery (even better, an Optima Redtop or similar gel cell) and relocate it to behind the passenger seat. If it's "only" a motorbike batt, you'll need a box. This way you don't need all the 1- or 0-gauge wires heading all the way back to the trunk. (save yourself a few lb right there) ... also this will improve the balance of your car -- more weight to offset the driver, as well as more weight behind the front axle, lower down, and towards the middle of the car. -AD

09-22-2003, 05:30 PM	#34
TokyoNights Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: garage Age: 42 Posts: 1,215 Trader Rating: (2) Rides Gallery: TokyoNights Feedback Score: 2 reviews	whatever you do dont cut out the reinforcements from the hood because it will flutter at speed even with hood pins..

09-22-2003, 07:14 PM	#36
adey Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Hong Kong Posts: 3,072 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	one more thing... whatever you do, if you'll be driving this car on the streets, DO NOT REMOVE THE FRONT (or rear) BUMPER REINFORCEMENTS!! The front weighs probably a good 20 - 30lb (at the front of the car, this may help noticably in reducing understeer) but it's not worth the damage that you'll do in the event of a front end collision, even at low speeds. Trust me, I found out the hard way.

09-28-2003, 11:06 AM	#37
JeromeS13 Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Goodyear, AZ Age: 44 Posts: 130 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Yeah, that Russ kid, I heard he even turned to dating 14 year olds. Apparently, they weigh a little less than the girls that are 'of age'. Man, I can't stand that kid. hahahahahaha j/k Russ. I had to throw that in there.

09-28-2003, 11:20 AM	#39
Grandpa Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Atlanta, Ga Posts: 182 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Front bumper reinforcement? Isn't that what a FMIC is for? -john

09-28-2003, 12:12 PM	#40
old_s13 BANNED Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 2,824 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Russ' car is amateur. Anyone who rewires their relays and fuses UNDER the dash has too much time on their hands. The right way to do it, is to wire everything in the trunk.. atleast its accessible there. That no good Russ.. someone needs to bitch slap him.

11-10-2003, 01:51 PM	#46
bchumley Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Hartville, OH Posts: 329 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I know this is an old thread, but I was hoping that I could get a hold of Russ, or anyone else that has done a similar project with relocating wiring/fuses to the interior. Besides the wiring for the lighting, what wiring from the driver side harness must still go to the engine bay? I'll post pictures of my engine bay soon so that you can see the look that I am trying to keep.

11-10-2003, 10:38 PM	#47
JeromeS13 Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Goodyear, AZ Age: 44 Posts: 130 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	If you're asking that question, I'd recommend NOT rewiring your car. All you need is an FSM, wiring know-how, and lots of time. Depending on what you've removed from the car, you can remove LOTS of wiring. Basically, you just need the wires for the important things.

11-11-2003, 02:51 AM	#48
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 42 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	lbs Take out everything except the dash to start with. Then you will notice a rubber looking substance on the floor called sound deadening material. Take a hammer, Chisel, and dry ice if you can and spend a couple days chipping all that crap off, (Seriously if adds up to like 45-50lbs) Then redo the inside wiring harness and lenthen it so you can run the wires through the panel in between the quarter panel and interior panel for a cleaner look. Then paint the inside of your car to the color of your choice so you dont look like a poka dotted rice mobile. Then you should start considering putting at least the drivers seat back in the car. If you have harnesses feel free to cut out the metal from the inside of the car in between the body panels. The areas you canot cut drill large holes in. Also wiring is also very heavy so eliminate your sterio system, antenna, ecu (kidding), Move the battery to the trunk ( run the wires under the car for a cleaner look). Remove inner fender liners, bumper reinforcements fr and rr. ac, condensor, smog crap, evap, You will have some holes inside your car from the rear seat. I reccomend plugging them with a welder, bondo, or jb weld. This all may sound crazy but I have built a couple SCCA world challenge civic coupes (not hatches) and they weighed in at 2050lbs with the driver, no fuel, a fire system, phat roll cage, and a b16-18 motor. thats light. but then again they had plexi windows, cf hoods, fiberglass doors, bumpers, and trunk lid. but hey. every bit helps. __________________

11-11-2003, 06:28 AM	#49
Zemus Nissanaholic! Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Minneapols Age: 40 Posts: 2,268 Trader Rating: (0) Rides Gallery: Zemus Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Very nice lil right up, but people like to see #s. I know that sound stuff is like 50lb, then all the ac stuff and all that wiring, and how much to stock seats weight. I think what we need to do is find out all the weight of the stock stuff so that we can get aftermarket lighter stuff. Like seats and stuff. __________________ \|Ziptied.com\|Hybrid Z\|D-Town Forum\|Clubfr.net\|

11-11-2003, 07:33 AM	#50
bchumley Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Hartville, OH Posts: 329 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Don, Thanks for the helpful input. I'm already about 1/2 done with all of the sound deadening. The dry ice technique is new to me, but I hear it works quite well. I'm not too worried about doing the wiring, since I worked as a car audio installer for over 3 years. I'm considering eliminating the heater and all related parts also. Not sure how much the girlfriend would appreciate that though...

11-11-2003, 07:05 PM	#51
blu808 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Campbell, Ca Age: 42 Posts: 5,010 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	yea You might want to keep your heater system since it is basically a second radiator. But you could allways eliminate the ac stuff. Also if you feel fine doing the wiring, then you should do it. Your car will look much cleaner. Also I will have my 240 finished with the weight reduction process next week and will get it weighed and post it up here. I believe the stock seats are around 25-30lbs with the rails. The stock seat belts in the s13s are also heavy. Good luck. Luke ( Dons my nickname ) __________________

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