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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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08-31-2016, 10:09 AM | #20161 | |
ITS LISA'S FAULT!!!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Las Vegas
Age: 42
Posts: 7,492
Trader Rating: (41)
Feedback Score: 41 reviews
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Quote:
you may have developed a hole in your radiator some how. have you noticed any drips below the car or odd smell of coolant with the hood open? |
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08-31-2016, 11:29 AM | #20162 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Quote:
But as you said, the coolant cannot be sucked in if there is a hole/vacuum leak in the system, which makes sense. YAY!!!! Another thing wrong with this car....lol
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08-31-2016, 11:31 AM | #20163 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Quote:
But thanks for your help man. It seems as if I have to get a new set of everything for this car.
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08-31-2016, 01:13 PM | #20165 |
ITS LISA'S FAULT!!!
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Las Vegas
Age: 42
Posts: 7,492
Trader Rating: (41)
Feedback Score: 41 reviews
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agreed... takes about 2 hours if you know what youre doing. most of the time is spent just waiting for the radiator + block to drain. while doing your pump its also a good time to do your thermostat too given you wont have any coolant in the system!
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09-01-2016, 09:20 AM | #20167 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I did the thermostat, but didn't do the water pump because it looked newer and I didn't have the tool necessary to remove the clutch.
But I'm going to change it this weekend because of this: Nothing is ever easy on THIS car.
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09-01-2016, 05:31 PM | #20168 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Milwaukee
Age: 34
Posts: 815
Trader Rating: (11)
Feedback Score: 11 reviews
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^you don't need a special tool to remove the clutch, just take the belt off and the 4 (looks like you only have 3 haha) 10mm nuts that hold the clutch on. Easy stuff
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09-01-2016, 08:56 PM | #20169 |
I'm quite new here, I just bought a part from a guy on zilvia and I can't leave trader feedback. I get the message saying. Don't have permission to do so. Is there a moderator that I have to pm?
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09-02-2016, 12:37 AM | #20170 |
Zilvia Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: eugene
Age: 32
Posts: 229
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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So just finally got my sr swap to start, everything is hooked up, everything is on properly as best i can see however it wont idle, it fires up, revs up to like 1300 then drops down to try to idle, kicks super low at like 400 rpms a few times then dies, however if i snap the throttle about half way and closed real fast it will rev, if indo it a few times it will rev to about 2k and run fairly smooth but it won't maintain it long, my first thought is my maf, any ideas?
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09-02-2016, 12:39 AM | #20171 | |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Somewhere in Cali
Age: 30
Posts: 612
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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Quote:
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk |
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09-02-2016, 12:52 AM | #20172 |
Zilvia Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: eugene
Age: 32
Posts: 229
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I do and no Its not vented to atmosphere its not even hooked up yet i have the wastegate and bov lines capped to rule out any leaks until I can get it to idle and run right
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09-02-2016, 12:54 AM | #20173 | |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Somewhere in Cali
Age: 30
Posts: 612
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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Quote:
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk |
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09-02-2016, 01:02 AM | #20174 |
Zilvia Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: eugene
Age: 32
Posts: 229
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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The pipe has a bov on it but the vacuum line to actuate is is not there i have a cap and zip tie on it, centralizing anything that could leak air is a massive help when initially starting a car especially one that has given me as many problems as this one, to the best of my knowledge i have no vacuum leaks i will be checking with starting fluid tomorrow
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09-02-2016, 09:03 AM | #20175 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Thanks pimp.
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09-04-2016, 06:09 AM | #20176 |
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: land of the lost
Age: 33
Posts: 45
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Recently picked up a 180 and came with these wheels. I was wondering of someone could get me info on them. All they have is a "AMP" stamp. Which from what i know is old school work wheels before they were work.. just wanted some more info on them. [/url]
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09-04-2016, 11:13 AM | #20177 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Age: 29
Posts: 508
Trader Rating: (7)
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
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Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)
RB20 still overheating. Keeps getting up to 195.
Changed water pump and thermostat. Have two isr electrical fans on a Isr dual core radiator and a CX racing intercooler. I really can't think of what is causing the problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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09-04-2016, 12:08 PM | #20178 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: nation of Texas
Age: 28
Posts: 1,302
Trader Rating: (4)
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
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Quote:
Also if when you changed all that stuff, and didn't bleed it, you need to do so. Run it with the radiator cap off for a bit, so any air can bleed out. |
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09-04-2016, 12:13 PM | #20180 | |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Age: 29
Posts: 508
Trader Rating: (7)
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
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Quote:
Yea it's a eBay gauge, guess il save up for a defi. Yea I bled it but I will check again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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09-04-2016, 12:15 PM | #20181 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: nation of Texas
Age: 28
Posts: 1,302
Trader Rating: (4)
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
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those are good, you could use a autometer gauge as well if you want to check immediately.you can get em at the autoparts store. they are of fair quality.
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09-04-2016, 02:12 PM | #20183 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Wilson, NC
Age: 29
Posts: 340
Trader Rating: (4)
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
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Hopefully someone can chime in and let me know I'm being over concerned but I noticed a sound coming from my SR20 when I started it today. The sound seems to be coming from the head and the best I can describe it is a light, metallic ping. It seemed to be rotationally related but inconsistent. When I removed the oil cap whilst the engine was running the sound seemed to get louder which leads me to believe it was in the head.
Prior to starting the car I had removed the turbo to install all new lines and the car had been sitting without starting for a little under a year. When I started it, I added some more oil and started the car with out the fuel pump fuse to build oil pressure. It never had any issues before this. What are some possible issues it could be and is it something I should be concerned over?
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09-06-2016, 10:24 PM | #20185 |
Leaky Injector
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Hatch wiper hole and diameter
Originally Posted by TheVinylKingz View Post
I'm new to Zilvia and I think I can't post new threads due to being a New-bee. Anyways, can anyone help me determine the size of the hole and location of the rear wiper please? I would prefer measurements please. I have a Base model 240sx hatch without a wiper blade. From research Base model 240sx came with no rear wiper blade. Last edited by TheVinylKingz; 09-06-2016 at 10:29 PM.. Reason: adding a picture |
09-08-2016, 08:50 PM | #20186 |
Leaky Injector
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Questions regarding Z32 brake conversion on a 95 S14 SE
I can do the fronts fine but have questions on the rear. Since I have a 5lug S14 SE, I can use my stock hubs and dont have to change them out to z32 hubs corrects? All I need to buy for a complete rear setup are Z32 Calipers/pads/rotors R33 ebrake cable Z32 NA ebrake assembly For the ebrake assembly, does it have to be from an NA Z32 or can it also be from a TT Z32? |
09-08-2016, 09:46 PM | #20187 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Toronto, ON
Age: 36
Posts: 1,182
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Either of the Z32 ebrake assemblies will work. Only difference is the type of anchor bolt (and the corresponding hub). The thicker one is ideal but the skinneier one just needs to be spaced out. Pretty sure Skyline ebrake assemblies will also work.
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09-08-2016, 10:29 PM | #20188 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
I thought this is how I could do it but just wanted to make sure before I buy. |
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09-09-2016, 07:23 AM | #20189 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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That's exactly what I did on mine. Has two big washers to space it out properly. Using R33 cables also.
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09-09-2016, 06:48 PM | #20190 |
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Florida
Age: 31
Posts: 21
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Doing ball joints in my rlca. I have an s14 for reference btw. I searched for what I would consider to be all over and got the information I thought I needed to do this. Went to advance and picked up b13 Sentra ball joints. However, I pressed the rears out and measured to find out the b13 Sentra ball joints are a little under 2mm thinner Han the stock. So there's play when I set it in position in the rlca. What can I do. Is there a way to still use these or should I return and try a different ball joint. I'm pretty sure I had purchased the right ones especially since the Internet said my s14 rears were 38mm not 41mm and change. Thanks
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Tags |
180sx type x kouki, 1jz, 2jz, 300zx, clutch, faq, ka24de, n/a, non-turbo, question, redtop s13 180sx silvia, s14, search, solenoid, starter, z32, zenki |
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