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Old 05-27-2006, 10:32 AM   #1
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Changing clutch fluid?

My clutch fluid is looking pretty black/dark, and I was looking to change it out.

I have heard of simply sucking the reservoir out with a turkey baster or something similar, and refilling with new brake fluid. Not a full flush, but to kinda refresh the fluid. I was about to do that, but figured I'd ask here first, if there is a simple way to swap all the clutch fluid out.

Also, is there a section on this site with "How-to's" as far as changing all the fluids and such? I'm looking to change the clutch, brake, and power steering fluids.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-27-2006, 02:27 PM   #2
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The clutch fluid is ez Simply drain it from the slave under the car. Refill fluid on top and bleed


While your down there take out the clutch dampener box and bend the pipes a little and make them go to the slave. Makes clutch a lil stiffer

Brakes is basically the same as above except replace 'press the clutch pedal several times' to 'press the brake pedal' And start from farthest away from master cylinder IE passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front

Power steering dont know how to bleed just know not to use power steering fluid
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Old 05-27-2006, 05:22 PM   #3
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i believe theres a bleeder on the steering rack for power steering fluid. Also keep in mind that our Nissan cars were designed to use ATF for the power steering, not power steering fluid.
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Old 05-27-2006, 06:16 PM   #4
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OK, thanks for the replies. Please let me get a few things straight.

So, I'm supposed to bleed the damper box AND the actual clutch "operating" cylinder? That's what it looks like from those pics. If so, that makes sense.

From what I can see, my clutch damper box looks different than the one pictured.....mine is more of a flat box. Also, my clutch fluid line goes into the bottom, not the top, as pictured.....is that OK/normal? Will it still bleed/drain fully from the top nipple?

So the "air bleeder valves" are basically the same thing as what's on the brakes, correct?

One last thing, I have heard of "gravity bleeding" the brakes, where instead of pumping the brakes you just let gravity do it's thing. I know this would take longer, but is it also an effective method?

Sorry for the newb questions. But I really appreciate the help.
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Old 05-27-2006, 06:24 PM   #5
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Get rid of the damper box all together.
Pump all the fluid out of the reservoir.
wipe it out and fill with new fluid.
should only take a few pumps to fill the system with new fluid. take an hour with the damper box installed.
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Old 05-28-2006, 05:07 AM   #6
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You can also get the clutch power flushed. It's the only way to bleed for those who are lazy and don't want to remove the clutch damper.
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Old 05-28-2006, 09:35 AM   #7
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g6civcx, would that require taking it to a shop(professional work)? Or is the "power flush" something I can do myself at home?

*Edit* Also, I don't think I'm the lazy type, but I actually like how my clutch pedal feels and have absolutely zero problems with it. I'm a "if it ain't broke....." kinda guy, so I would kinda prefer to leave the damper box functional.

Also, if I was going to leave the damper box alone, could I just bleed the clutch cyl, or would I have to bleed the damper box also? Thanks.
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Old 05-28-2006, 10:46 AM   #8
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you will have to bleed the damper box aswell, when i bled my clutch with the damper box it took me over 2.5 hours to do and it still wasnt good. Without it you have a better feeling clutch pedal and it takes a few mins to bleed the clutch. definatly remove it.
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Old 05-28-2006, 10:53 AM   #9
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"It ain't broke"....yet. Once you try to bleed it, you'll realize why we're all suggesting to remove the damper. You'll spend three times as long bleeding both items and still won't get it all out, or you can remove the damper and have it bled in 2 minutes.
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Old 05-28-2006, 01:43 PM   #10
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I see what you're saying. Thanks for the explanation. When I feel up to the task, I'll go ahead and remove the damper box. For now, I guess it would probably be best if I just left things as they are then, since the fluid is just a bit dark, not like it really is in dire need of a change or anything, I was just looking to do some "preventative maintenance".

If I removed what is in the clutch fluid reservoir, and replaced that, would the new fluid eventually get mixed throughout the system, and dilute the old stuff? Or would it just sit in the res.? Thanks again for the help everyone.
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Old 05-28-2006, 03:20 PM   #11
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it would just sit. Maybe if you're lucky it may get into the Master. But odds are it won't do shit.

bypassing the damper box is easier than it sounds. Just do it!
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Old 05-28-2006, 05:31 PM   #12
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Yeah, it sounds like I'm gonna have to grow a pair and do that next weekend!

Thanks for the advice.
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Old 05-30-2006, 02:25 PM   #13
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Pick up a mini pipe bender at the auto parts store too takes the worry out of putting a kink in the line when bending the line to connect with the slave
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Old 06-06-2006, 08:59 PM   #14
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"It ain't broke"....yet. Once you try to bleed it, you'll realize why we're all suggesting to remove the damper. You'll spend three times as long bleeding both items and still won't get it all out, or you can remove the damper and have it bled in 2 minutes.
Exactly... believe me, the damper is like the timing chain guides... they dont do much good for the car, but cause hella problems... last night when my slave blew out, i replaced it and tried to bleed the system... wrong thing to try. Took 2 hours and 6 bucks in clutch fluid... clutch wasnt any better... so i replaced the master.. bled another 2 hours and 6 bucks...still no pressure in the clutch system... bout ready to drop the tranny to look at the fork, i decided to take out the damper... as soon as i reconnected the lines, boom... instant pressure in the clutch system... if youre any good at bending, you dont need any special tool, just take your time. My clutch feels a lot different, and i need to adjust the pedal travel back to the way it was stock... engages way too early.. but i didnt think the damper would have made that much of a difference in bleeding.. it sure did.
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Old 06-06-2006, 09:12 PM   #15
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okay so about the power steer fluid. You really gotta use ATF?? Damn I am running it with power steering fluid for about 2 weeks. Should I flush it out and put ATF back in?
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Old 06-06-2006, 11:50 PM   #16
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^Personally, I would.
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Old 06-17-2006, 08:02 PM   #17
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me too....mine was leaking way worse with power steering fluid than ATF fluid. I am about to fix my leak and then switch to royal purple synth. ATF...should be lots better hopefully. As for bending the line...it is easy. I am about to install a SS clutch line and can take a pic of it bent if you would like...
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