Move battery to trunk

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Is the srswap.com battery relocation kit any good? Has anyone used it?

Has anyone moved the battery to the hatch or trunk? How long did it take you and how much did you spend? What kits did you use?

Also - it seems like this might steal a bit of power... can anyone tell me why it wouldn't, or if it would, how much?

Thanks,
Chase

[Replicant_S14]

I don't know anything about that kit but if it has everything that you actually need then it's a good deal @ $65.

The added resistance due to the length of the wire is negligible. A 4 guage copper wire that is 1000' long has  0.253 ohms of resistance at ambient temps. A 1 guage wire would be 0.126. We are only talking about 15' of wire. There would be a small voltage drop but again, it isn't significant.

As soon as I get some time I'm going to do it but I won't be using a kit.

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I don't know, I told my dad about what I was going to do and he sat here trying to tell me that the starter motor would end up pulling more current because of the resistance of the long cable, effectively creating more heat and wearing it out faster. The principles are correct but I think he's blowing the numbers way out of proportion. Unfortunately, I don't have a handy EE degree... is anyone aware of the tolerances of the starter motor on the SR20DET S14 Blacktop?

[sr20-s15foo]

Originally posted by Replicant_S14
I don't know anything about that kit but if it has everything that you actually need then it's a good deal @ $65.

The added resistance due to the length of the wire is negligible. A 4 guage copper wire that is 1000' long has  0.253 ohms of resistance at ambient temps. A 1 guage wire would be 0.126. We are only talking about 15' of wire. There would be a small voltage drop but again, it isn't significant.

As soon as I get some time I'm going to do it but I won't be using a kit.

All this about resistance at ambient temps sounds great and the numbers im sure are correct, but back in the day when i had a muscal car the headers were able to heat the cables up enough so that the resistance was over come by heat...i gusss the relocate kit would work great just keep it away from any significant heat (headers, turbo stuff, etc.) If your running at the drags and need to hook your alternator up to the on/off switch and your chasing mere tenths of a second you could always run piping the length to the trunk and put the 0 gage cable in the piping., lol...

[Jeff240sx]

Do you really think that after 7 months someone will still need help? Please, don't bring up old topics... start a new one.
-Jeff

[AceInHole]

Originally posted by Jeff240sx
Do you really think that after 7 months someone will still need help? Please, don't bring up old topics... start a new one.
-Jeff

You could've also pointed out that the topic starter recently crashed at 110mph.

[Jeff240sx]

LOL! Yea... he probably doesn't need to move the battery to the trunk anymore. Actually, judging by the pics, he can't... he has no trunk.
-Jeff

[sr20-s15foo]

Originally posted by Jeff240sx
Do you really think that after 7 months someone will still need help? Please, don't bring up old topics... start a new one.
-Jeff

Who knows after 7 months someone might still need help for their project car sitting in the garage, anyways thats not the point. I was always under the impression that starting new threads just adds to other peoples' (and mine) problems when they hit that search key that YOU so terrible reiterate other people using making it harder for people to sort through 20 different topics on batteries all having the exact same info in each of them. In any case, thanks for your two sense, i'll keep you constructive criticism in mind.