SR20DET idle problems, struggles and dies

[Apexi]

I have a sr20det mostly stock with a fmic, full 3" turboback, aftermarket turbo manifold , walbro, safc, sohc mafs. It had always started great and idled great but one day I started it up and it had idle problems. I would start the engine and it would idle for one second and then shake violently and die.
Ive done searches and have changed the maf, sprayed carb cleaner into the iacv, vaccumm is fine at 20, changed the spark plugs, changed the fuel filter, cleaned the injectors and it will still have the same problem and the sr20 falls on its face. Ive also tried disconnecting the coolant sensor, mafs, o2 sensor, safc. but still have the same problem. I have even tested the throttle position voltage. I am stumped and any help would be appreciated.

[longdy]

alright man seems like you have everything else check out but did you mind to check your grounds??????....mainly the grounds for the injectors..but still look around

[Apexi]

The grounds should be good. I have an engine ground kit.

[s13coupedrfter]

Had similar problem with my sr20. I took the iacv out and cleaned it with carb cleaner. When you have it out do a resistance check of the aac (the aac is on the iacv unit and is held on by 2 screws), should be 12 ohms. Next put a 12v power source to the solinoid (looks like a long 6 point bolt head on the iacv unit) and you will hear a clicking noise. If all checks out you have a good iacv. Finally do a continuity check of the iacv wiring. In my situation I had 2 open wires, one for the iacv (black with yellow stripe) and the other was a solid brown wire can't remember what it was for though. After the repair the car runs perfict! I ended up pulling the entire wiring harness out for continuity testing just to be sure. Don't let the harness intimidate you, it only takes about 15 min. to remove.

Another reasond I point out the iacv is because during the sr20 swap process, the wiring to that sensor is spliced in to a ka connector (the shop who did my swap forgot the 2 mentioned wires). Checkout www.heavythrottle.com for info. There are diagrams for the wiring conversion, and there the best Iv'e seen.

Also do a continuity check of the maf harness since it's spliced/lengthened during the swap process. My harness clip to the maf used to be loose and my car would violently die too untill I secured it.

[s13coupedrfter]

Any updates?

[Apexi]

The iacv checked out okay today.

I was thinking what else could be the problem. Maybe bad gas? I was thinking that it could have been the gas so I tried to siphon the gas through the gas filler but for some reason the siphon tube would not go all the way to reach the fuel. So I removed the gas tank cover, where the fuel pump is attached to. I opened it and saw my problem. I couldnt believe my eyes. The rubber fuel line where the fuel pump attaches to the fuel sender was almost completly dissolved. only a little portion of the rubber was left. I think it could have been very bad gas. I replaced the rubber fuel line and the car starts like new. Thanks for everyones help.

I also have one last problem. When I open my gas cap, It sounds like when you open a soda bottle and the pressure comes out. Is this normal on sr20 swaps?

[sxe]

yea that hissing when you open the gas cap, thats can be caused by a number of problems, low headlight fluid, maybe your wheels were spinning too fast, it could be a number of things. might wanna get it checked out

[Gjohnson7]

Originally Posted by sxe

yea that hissing when you open the gas cap, thats can be caused by a number of problems, low headlight fluid, maybe your wheels were spinning too fast, it could be a number of things. might wanna get it checked out

Ok???????????

Well glad you found the culprit. I was looking over your list of items you checked out and was thinking he really needs to check out that fuel pump. Guess I"m a little late.