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Old 12-30-2007, 05:52 PM   #1
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car wont go into gear, and when does moves

seems as if the clutch isnt engaging or something...... i couldnt get the clutch to engage and noticed that the throw out fork wasnt working at all. so we pulled the tranny and noticed that the throw out bearing was jacked.... we then put a new tranny in with another throw out bearing and put it all back together. bled the clutch etc. etc. etc....... when the car isnt running it goes through gears fine but when its on that dumb hoe wont go into gear..... and when it does go into gear it moves. as if the clutch is not fully engaging?

any ideas......
sorry for being a noob but i cant find shit.
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Old 12-30-2007, 05:57 PM   #2
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well the clutch probably isn't disengaging. have some one step on the clutch and see it anything moves. when the trany was out did you check the clutch?
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Old 12-30-2007, 06:01 PM   #3
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sounds like the clutch is dragging, check your adjustment at the pedal, it' a threaded rod with a jam nut, and make sure you didn't bend your fork or break your pivot ball.

all i can think of checking.
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Old 12-30-2007, 08:47 PM   #4
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First off make sure your m/c and s/c aren't leaking. Look on the firewall under the master cyl inside the car if it is wet then the m/c is leaking. Pull back the dust boot on the slave cyl if there is fluid in there then it is bad. Also check the clutch pedal adjustment. It should have about 1/2" of play at the pedal.
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:50 PM   #5
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so i checked on the inside of the car on the firewall and it is leaking a little bit from what seems to be the master cylinder...... could this be the reason its doing it. or is that not enough to make it act like that?
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:56 PM   #6
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Yes this is the reason. It will DEFINATELY make your car impossible to put into gear. Autozone has replacements, takes a half hour to swap out.
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Old 12-31-2007, 12:13 AM   #7
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Definitely replace it, but DON'T GO TO AUTOZONE! Unless you feel like replacing it again in a couple of months. Do a little searching and find a source for a tokico one it will be about the same price. Hell autozone might be able to get you one, just stay away from duralast or some other cheap ass crap.
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Old 12-31-2007, 12:18 AM   #8
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ive been using that autozone shit for my master and slave for over 1.5 years on the track car
actually ive used that on all mycar for the past 5 years..
shit works fine

install
drive
its cool
get some sweet ass speed bleeder too for the slave
makes life easy!
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Old 12-31-2007, 12:25 AM   #9
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u guys are the shit.......

if i could give postive rep everyone would be a winner!!!!!!!!!!! lol
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Old 12-31-2007, 12:43 AM   #10
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Haha no problem, but yeah I had an Autozone master cyl. on my old fastback and I beat the shit out of that car and the master lasted a year and when I sold the car it was still holding up like a champ.
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Old 12-31-2007, 12:49 AM   #11
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No problem man! I've got a tokico master and slave on my car and I've been running them for 2.5 years. As a matter of fact they were on my red coupe for like 1.5 years then I wrecked it and now they've been on my fastback for a year. Buy quality parts, it will always pay off in the end.
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Old 12-31-2007, 01:40 AM   #12
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http://www.frsport.com/Clutch-Pedal---Parts_c_43.html just bought a slave and master myself from these guys.
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Old 12-31-2007, 01:52 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Yes this is the reason. It will DEFINATELY make your car impossible to put into gear. Autozone has replacements, takes a half hour to swap out.
Definitely don't goto autozone or kragen. You'll be replacing the master cylinder again in 12 months or less. I had my clutch fork bend on my truck and I got to learn how to shift with no clutch. I knew if I left my truck at work it would be gone or stripped the next day so I had no choice.
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Old 12-31-2007, 06:23 AM   #14
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You can drive without using the clutch but you have to learn how to revmatch perfectly. One screwup and you'll fry the synchros.

New OEM master cylinder, new OEM or Nismo slave cylinder, throw away the damper box, and get a Taka Motorsports braided line from master to slave to make your life easier.

It should take less than 5 repititions to bleed without the damper. With the damper you need a power bleeder.
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Old 12-31-2007, 11:56 AM   #15
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same thing happend to me only when it was cold
I just bled the clutch and it started to work againg
weird...
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Old 01-01-2008, 05:52 PM   #16
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ok so i replaced the master cylinder, slave clyinder, throw out bearing, fork, and new tranny...... but the car still doesnt go into gear very easily while it is running. it can be done but it has to be forced. and once it is in gear and the clutch is in the car starts moving unless i am on the brakes... it shifts from 1st to second fine and from 3rd to forth fine but the main problem is while im stopped it is trying to go. about to go try and adjust the play at the clutch problem
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Old 01-01-2008, 06:07 PM   #17
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ok nvm it was the clutch adjustment
thank you all for your help.........

my beater is now on the road!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-02-2008, 06:14 PM   #18
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well as of yesterday the problem was fixed...........

but guess what...... its not fixed anymore

i drove it today for the first time and it got me to work fine and dandy... on the way home from work im going straight and just hear metal grinding again..... so im like wtf? i just put that throw out bearing in.....i havent got to look at it yet but i am almost positive that it is the throw out bearing....... so i drive home without a clutch and now am sitting here thinking how nice it was to drive my car for the 20 minuts that it lasted?

so my question to you is why did this happen again???? could i be installing the throw out bearing wrong????
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Old 01-02-2008, 07:40 PM   #19
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im gonna put a new one in tommorow but im nervous because i dont want this one to mess up agian because it will be my third one


some one please help a retard
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Old 01-03-2008, 09:17 AM   #20
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I had a similar problem after going to a after market clutch. I think your clutch is not being fully disengage.

1. A quick test is with the engine off put it in 1st gear.
2. Start the car.
3. If the cars move forward then your clutch is not disengaging properly.

Solution:
1. Try adjusting the clutch engagement point which you've done.
2. Replace the slave with a nismo one.
3 Try extending the rod in the slave by putting it in a 8mm socket. If this works, fab yourself up a longer rod.
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:39 PM   #21
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so what would cause me to keep messing up throw out bearings?

i dont want to put another one in there and mess it up again?
what would cause this?

could it be the pressure plate?
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:46 AM   #22
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??????????????????????
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:16 AM   #23
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guess no one knows what could cause throw out bearings to keep messing up?
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Old 02-12-2008, 01:51 AM   #24
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"what did u do for clutch adjustment"

did the spin the pedal rod longer or shorter?
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Old 02-12-2008, 01:58 AM   #25
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single plate check to see if you didnt put the disc on backwards and its not realesing of the flywheel bolts its possible
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Old 02-12-2008, 10:29 AM   #26
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When you took the trans down, did you put in a new clutch too? Check to see if the clutch fork pivot ball is broken. Make sure your clutch fork is properly installed (with the little spring clip). Make sure you properly bleed your clutch system afterwards. You should be able to watch the slave cylinder move the clutch fork from above.
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Old 02-12-2008, 10:34 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g6civcx View Post
You can drive without using the clutch but you have to learn how to revmatch perfectly. One screwup and you'll fry the synchros.

New OEM master cylinder, new OEM or Nismo slave cylinder, throw away the damper box, and get a Taka Motorsports braided line from master to slave to make your life easier.

It should take less than 5 repititions to bleed without the damper. With the damper you need a power bleeder.

haha i had to do that a few weeks ago when my clutch went out on the way to work
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Old 02-12-2008, 06:26 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by MadMaverick View Post
When you took the trans down, did you put in a new clutch too? Check to see if the clutch fork pivot ball is broken. Make sure your clutch fork is properly installed (with the little spring clip). Make sure you properly bleed your clutch system afterwards. You should be able to watch the slave cylinder move the clutch fork from above.

ding ding ding! winner!
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