SR20DET vs KA24DE

[KADET4134]

Hey all, just wanted to be of some experienced assistance for those trying to choose between the KADE and the SR. I did the KA24DE-T conversion to my 139,000 mile motor. There were many problems indeed and you really cannot cut corners with this project. I recommend a rebuild because i blew 2 pistons eventually, but with an XS Engineering Turbo kit (Incld. Mani, Intercooler, BOV, etc.) and a stage 2 ACT clutch, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, SR20DET injectors, Walbro pump, pressure regulator, SAFC-II and a few other modifications I managed to pound out 316 RWHP and 400 LB. Ft. of torque @ 7 psi, which blew the SR20DET away by far, which make about 205 RWHP on a newer SR motor. I actually raced an SR20DET 240 w/mods, made in the same era as mine, and roasted it head to head, despite spinning through 3rd gear. These numbers are amazing indeed and the prices were fairly close, however here are my mistakes that could've saved me by doing originally: The Stage II ACT clutch began slipping immediately, which was bound to happen when I made all of that power off of the fairly large T-28 turbo. Next major issue was fuel. I originally thought I would be fine with the upgraded pump, larger injectors and SAFC-II, which in theory is correct. However, the SAFC wasn't enough and a regulator had to be added. Next to go were two of the pistons. I recommend a rebuild with at least racing pistons, especially if the car is over 50,000 miles. This is what will essentially convert your raw power to reliable, streetable power. The last issue was the turbo itself, which was expected because it was SSAutoZone, or as we like to call it, SSAutoZone. The SSAutochrome IS worth it however, as it is half the price of the other kits and will work with a plethora of good turbo's. This kit makes big power for the $1,250. The turbo blew within an hour of dynoing the 316 RWHP. I now have a T3/T4 setup which spools quicker and it was basically as simple as cutting off the T-28 flange and adding a T3/T4 one. This Garrett is faaar more reliable and I expect to make even bigger power on my next dyno, given that I have added a stage 3 clutch, Arias racing pistons and a smaller sized injector to create a more reliable flow of fuel, instead of the excess and problematic 370CC's which are NOT needed with a regulator, SAFC and walbro pump. It was simply just too much fuel and it pooled up in the cylinders and created big problems. Here's the catch... by the time you build an SR20DET up to this level of performance, you are looking at similar costs from doing the SR conversion or the KA-T. But, the KA-T will obviously dominate the SR with its insane size, which creates uncomparable torque and by the time you build an SR to match that power, it will start eating parts and possible even blow the motor, which in the long run, makes the KA-T cheaper, despite it being a bit more expensive in the long run. If you wish to run an SR20DET, buy a 240 with this motor already swapped into it. The swap is a pain in the ass and everyone i know had to have a shop finish the swap for them because it was very time consuming. Not to say the KA-T wasn't very time consuming, but we are looking at the Bang-to-buck ratio here. You can easily pick up an SR powered 240 in the states for $3,000-4,000, which is about what the cost of the swap initially, so you will save a TON of money and sweat by going this route. I wouldn't really go this route with a KA-T just because I don't know if I would fully trust someone elses work on a project this big and complex. The KA-T build will be a lot more troubleshooting and problem solving oriented, especially with the XSEngineering kit because it has no instructions or hints whatsoever. The SR is a lot less head scratching, but it will require more overall labor, which = a lot more overall money if you have a shop do the swap. Also check out PhatKA-T.com or .org or something, I know they had a KA24DE boosted s13 that was making well over 700 RWHP, so the potential for the KA-T is very underestimated by SR biased tuners. Overall the 2.4 will obviously make much more power and torque in an all out race build compared to the 2.0L SR, plus everyone and their grandma has a 240 with an SR swap. My entire project came to around $6,500-7,000 and it would've been a lot less but I got really busy and had to have the shop do a little of the work along with the rebuild. Either way you go, the price will be WAY higher than your estimate, so be prepared, because the more boost you try to run, the more sht you are going to blow up. Good luck with whichever you choose to go with and if you have any ?'s send me a message and I will try and help with the insight I've gained through a lot of experimentation and money spending.