KA24de wount go into gear arghtherh so maddd

[robunicu]

So i finaly got my car off the jack stands and started and now it wount go into gear. car started off with 5 spd but i bought a motor that had an auto tranny. bolted the motor to my 5spd tranny, put the motor in now when the car is on it just doesnt want to go in gear. when car off goes in gear fine. any clues as to what i should check? please any ideas are welcome.

[aznpoopy]

check if slave cylinder is extending and fork is moving properly

[IRN]

i agree with the clutch fork. start there and see if it moves properly and bleed if needed. did you change out the auto pilot busing to manual?

[robunicu]

arght noooo, i did not change the pilot bushing? what exactly i have to do to change it? so mad. the thing is it my first swap and did it myself no1 told me that i had to change the pilot busing. arghtikshdf; klah;sdlkfh ;alkhwe;otih ;asdkhf; aklsdf

[kcndizzle]

The pilot bushing is located inside the crank at the back of the engine. To change it you're going to have to pull the trans/clutch/ and probably the flywheel. and get a puller to pull it out, or try to pry it out, or very carefully cut it out with a dremel. Then just press the right one in with the right sized socket and a hammer.

[racepar1]

Before you change the pilot bushing take the new one in the palm of your hand and fill it up with oil. Then use your other hand to compress the oil inside the bushing untill it starts to seep through the pores in the bushing. If you do not lubricate the bushing like that it will have a shorter life due to lack of lube.

[projectRDM]

Originally Posted by robunicu

arght noooo, i did not change the pilot bushing? what exactly i have to do to change it? so mad. the thing is it my first swap and did it myself no1 told me that i had to change the pilot busing. arghtikshdf; klah;sdlkfh ;alkhwe;otih ;asdkhf; aklsdf

That's why you read up on a subject before diving in head first, blind and ignorant.

[robunicu]

i did and my "russian mechanic" uncle said its no problem same shit. do u guys really think that that is the problem?

[racepar1]

Honestly it sounds like there is a problem with the hydraulic system for the clutch, but you need to change the pilot bushing anyways.

[IRN]

seriously check the fork movement and while your down there check the slave and the clutch dampener box for leaks. that dampener traps air. check your master too. no point in ripping out the tranny just yet.

[Dream240]

Originally Posted by IRN

seriously check the fork movement and while your down there check the slave and the clutch dampener box for leaks. that dampener traps air. check your master too. no point in ripping out the tranny just yet.

Yeah there is.

If he didn't swap the auto pilot bushing with a manual one, he's gonna have problems. So regardless, he's gonna have to pull the tranny back out. I'm surprised you got the tranny to mate up to the engine with the auto bushing still in there. I've never made that mistake but I would think you wouldn't be able to get the tranny all the way on since it protrudes out past the crank hole, unlike the manual one that sits inside the hole. And IIRC they have different inner diameters. Did you have any tranny mating problems?

Also, you don't need to "pre-lube" the new bushing with oil. What you're supposed to do is use lithium grease to lube up the pilot bushing inner diameter, input shaft, throw out bearing retainer, pivot fork contact points, and slave cylinder piston tip.

Engine oil belongs in the block and INSIDE the tranny.

[racepar1]

Dude I have been a trans and drivetrain specialist for 5 years now. The way that I stated is the proper way to lube the bushing, trust me.

[Dream240]

You're describing the procedure for lubing a hub bearing, not a pilot bushing. And it's not oil, it's grease.

In my 12 years of working with cars, both professional and personal, I have NEVER heard that procedure described for a pilot bushing. Also if it was the proper method, wouldn't it be somewhere in the FSM? I have never seen that in ANY factory FSM, both foreign and domestic.

I think you're confused. Or maybe this is some new pioneering method that you learned at UTI...?

I've NEVER done pilots like this and my bushings last me at least 80,000 miles. Is that poor wear for a brass bushing to you? Here's a tip: don't try to re-invent the wheel.

[DDSR240]

[quote=Dream240;1912842]Yeah there is.

If he didn't swap the auto pilot bushing with a manual one, he's gonna have problems. hey dream 240 there is no such thing as auto pilot bushing..dumbass

[Dream240]

Originally Posted by DDSR240

hey dream 240 there is no such thing as auto pilot bushing..dumbass

"Hey let's all jump on the useless post bandwagon!!!" Obviuously I'm referring to the auto adapter bushing, but I simply applied a lamens term so that noobs would know what I'm talking about.

So no it's TECHNICALLY not an auto pilot bushing, it's an adapter bushing to mate the auto input shaft to the crank shaft. But it goes in the same place as the manual pilot bushing, and serves basically the same purpose.

Hey DDSR240, +rep for your insight. Thanks for the utterly useless post. Now I know where you got all your great rep.

[devnull]

The pilot bushing is sintered, a process that makes the material quite porous. The reason it's porous is so that it can trap lubricant inside itself. Grease won't flow into the pores, but oil will. Thus oil is meant to be used on the pilot bushing.

This I was told by a good friend of mine who has 30 years of experience repairing cars.

Engine oil belongs in the block and INSIDE the tranny.

For the sake of the any newbs reading this thread, I feel the need to point out this statement. Engine oil in engine, gear oil in tranny.

[Dream240]

Originally Posted by devnull

For the sake of the any newbs reading this thread, I feel the need to point out this statement. Engine oil in engine, gear oil in tranny.

OMG, you guys are seriously reaching at straws today aren't you?

Fine for the sake of the completely stupid, engine oil goes in the engine, and GEAR oil goes in the transmission and differential. Unless you have an automatic transmission, which then requires automatic transmission fluid or ATF.

And just so YOU know devnull, there are SOME cars that use engine oil in the crankcase, not gear oil. Smart guy.

[racepar1]

Originally Posted by Dream240

You're describing the procedure for lubing a hub bearing, not a pilot bushing. And it's not oil, it's grease.

In my 12 years of working with cars, both professional and personal, I have NEVER heard that procedure described for a pilot bushing. Also if it was the proper method, wouldn't it be somewhere in the FSM? I have never seen that in ANY factory FSM, both foreign and domestic.

I think you're confused. Or maybe this is some new pioneering method that you learned at UTI...?

I've NEVER done pilots like this and my bushings last me at least 80,000 miles. Is that poor wear for a brass bushing to you? Here's a tip: don't try to re-invent the wheel.

Look smart ass UTI is useless and overpriced, I would not even consider wasting my money on that school (or even worse wyotech!). I have been working personally on cars for about 14 years now, so if you wanna get in a pissing match about who has been working on cars for longer there ya go! If that is how you lube wheel bearings then you are doing it wrong, but I will not go into that as it has NOTHING at all to do with this thread. I learned that form a tranny shop owner that has been working in the business for over 40 years! You can get away with nothing but a little grease, but it is not the best way to do it. Read the post quoted below, there is good info there!

Originally Posted by devnull

The pilot bushing is sintered, a process that makes the material quite porous. The reason it's porous is so that it can trap lubricant inside itself. Grease won't flow into the pores, but oil will. Thus oil is meant to be used on the pilot bushing.

This I was told by a good friend of mine who has 30 years of experience repairing cars.




For the sake of the any newbs reading this thread, I feel the need to point out this statement. Engine oil in engine, gear oil in tranny.

[Dream240]

So you're saying your professional experience is based on what, working at your uncle's garage wearing a blue overall with greasy hands for 5 years?

So if I got this right you were working on cars at the wee age of 11, doing what exactly? Prolly helping your dad change oil on Saturdays. I love it when some of you guys on here start spouting your pedigree and it just so happens that you're been knee deep in rebalancing crankshafts and engine swaps since you could write a complete sentence.

You sound exactly like about 50% of all the other guys on here. Sorry but your E-degree doesn't convince me.

As for the hub bearing lube, the process is almost exactly how you described it except you use hub grease, like I mentioned. Filling your hand with grease and guiding it through the bearing until you see it coming out the other side. That's a typical roller bearing lube job. Did I stutter...?

Hey let's piss shall we, I'm feeling frisky.

Also just to add, so that there's no confusion. There are quite a few different types of pilot bushings/bearings out there. The type used in KAs and SRs are the common and typical brass bushing type. These should be lubed per the FSM. But hey, you guys are welcome to listen to "racepar1" and waste some oil. Roller and needle type pilot bearings usually come pre-lubed and do not require any lube.

And yes there is a difference between a pilot bushing and a pilot bearing.

EDIT:
Oh one more thing, you guys keep talking about using oil not grease and how oil gets into the metal pores of the bushing. Well what do you guys think grease is made of? It has oil in it!!
Here's a homework assignment for you boys when you get home today:

1. take some basic bearing grease and put about a finger tip size chunk on the concrete in your driveway, try to find a flat surface.
2. Next get a cap full of oil and pour it next to the grease but not close enough so that it will mix.
3. Walk away until tomorrow morning.
4. come out and proceed to wipe away both spots with a shop rag.
5. you will see a stain left in both areas, why? BECAUSE THEY BOTH HAVE ABSORBING CAPABILITIES!! The oil will have absorbed faster because it's liquified but they will both absorb nonetheless.
6. Thank me tomorrow for enlightening you.

[Phlip]

This was answered when we got the "I still have the auto pilot bushing in" statement and has not been pretty since, so now I am forced to play the bad guy yet again... Thanks for nothing, guys