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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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electric fans cutting out
I am currently running a koyorad radiator with dual 12" FAL fans. I just have the fans wired up to a switch where I can manually turn them on/off. While at the track this weekend after a couple runs and waiting in line my car would begin to overheat. My fans would keep cutting in an out as the car got hotter and hotter. I would take it back to the pits, check all the wiring, and they would still cut in an out. Any ideas, or possible reasons this could be happening.
At 1 point in the day my defi temp gauge would read 228 degress, definately getting up there. I also have the sensor for the gauge tapped into the upper radiator hose. |
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#2 |
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the switch itself could be overheating, happened to me but a little bit more violent lol.
try wiring the fans to a relay and have the ground to the relay controlled by the switch. |
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#3 |
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They were originally wired into a DIF dual fan controller, but the controller took a crap on me. It does however have a manual on/off switch that I have been using since it still works. So since the the DIF fan controller has relays built in, and it doens't work anymore this could be the reason that it is cutting in an out?
this is the controller I was using. http://www.frsport.com/DIF-Universal...-B_p_8173.html |
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#4 |
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TAKE OUT THE CONTROLLER!!! i had the DiF controller and it fucking sucks. i drove to the track one day and my fucking fans would shut off, then come back on, and shut off and come back on (continuously) even when the ignition was off. i had to rip the controller out and hardwire them in just so i could drift that day. that thing is a piece of shit. also, i highly recommend wiring the fans in through a relay and not directly through a switch. i had them wired in through a switch and the damn switch melted in the ON position and i couldnt turn off the fans without ripping the wire off the back of the switch contacts. i wired the whole system with a new switch and a 30amp relay and everything has been working really well since then.
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#5 |
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the only problem is that I am basically electrically braindead, I'm not scared to admit it. So basically I need to remove the controller and wire the fans into a 30 amp relay, with a fuse, and a switch. Seems simple enough.
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#6 |
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you have the basic idea right but i can make you a diagram later. im at work right now and my resources are crazy limited. just send me a PM later to remind me, i have the worst memory ever.
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#7 | ||
Zilvia FREAK!
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Quote:
You should take a look at my setup it works quite well. What track were you at? Quote:
This way no matter what, the fans will kick on @ 203*f....however if I kick ground to the relays via the switch (taped into the blue/green wire), I can control when the fans turn on. |
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#9 |
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exactly like this except, I tapped into the CTS at the ecu to keep things cleaner in the engine bay.
DIF Dual Fan Controller Install on S13 S14 240SX like I said the controller stopped working about 6 months ago, but the manual switch still works and that is what I have been using. It's stays plenty cool at highway speeds, just gets a little hot at the track. |
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#10 | |
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Quote:
Since you said that the controller stopped working, and the switch is wired to the controller, can it be reasoned that the controller is not allowing the switch to turn on the fan? How about you remove the controller completely and use a relay and switch to control the fan? |
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#11 |
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The fans use to come on at the preset temps and then the controller crapped out and would only turn both fans on at the highest set temp. That eventually esculated into the fans not turning on at all. The only way they come on now is with the manual switch. my plan is to take the controller out, throw it away and just wire the fans up to a relay and a switch.
I just need some sort of diagram to go off of since I don't know much about wiring. |
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#13 |
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You should really run a good fan controller.
I heard a lot of DiF controllers burning out. Are you putting a fuse on all of your power wires going to the controller? |
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#14 | |
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Quote:
yea man, ive had the setup for a while now and ive never gotten into a problem so far. basically my setup is: 30amp relay (w/ pins: 30, 85, 86, and 87), 15amp fuse, and a toggle switch. from the fans i grounded them to the chassis. then run the power wire from the fans to pin 87. i have a wire tapped into the fuel pump fuse (because its switched 12v) onto pin 86 so the fans only turn on with the key in the 'on' position (just to prevent it from killing the battery if the switch is accidently left on). then on pin 30, i have it going straight to the + side of the battery with the 15 amp inline fuse. then on pin 85, i have a wire going into the cabin grounded to the bolt on the shifter trim with a toggle switch inline so i can turn it on and off at will. so in short: pin 30: + side of battery w/ 15amp fuse pin 85: ground (with toggle switch if you want) pin 86: fuel pump fuse pin 87: + side of fans. |
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#19 |
Zilvia Junkie
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nice write up on the fan relay. thats the way i have done them in the past. customers want the fal fan switch installed but its a waste. ive seen so many of those fan switches fried to the point of melting plastic and possibly starting fires.
wiring in a relay with the switch, like you have it, i havent seen any electrical problems. |
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#20 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Autozone carries a fan controller like what Enjuku sells, its a 1/3 of the price but comes with relays, ac override and very easy to install, also has and external fuse and heavy guage wires.
Quote:
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#21 |
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and it also sucks dick. i went through 3 of them where the temp probe just crapped out and caused the fans to never come on. maybe it was just luck of the draw and i got 3 shitty ones in a row (and i know my wiring wasnt the issue), but i dont reccomend temp switches that use a stick that fits in between the fins of the rad.
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#26 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I would advise against this. Both fans need 30-40a each. You also need seperate relays for each fan. 5amp fuse on 85 if used on an ignition source. If your taking from 12v just loop 85 and 30. Oh and you need 75a for a normally closed, because electricity will be flowing across 85 and 86.
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#27 | |
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Quote:
I'm not saying you're wrong; I'm just saying what the manufacturer recommends. With electrical stuff though, it's much better to be safe than sorry. Agreed. I have no idea what this means. |
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#30 | |
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Quote:
I also have a manual switch and an ac switch to turn on the cooling fans. |
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electric fan, fan wireing |
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