Help Please.. ka24de - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

mmaxeyjr · 06-22-2009, 10:52 PM

Heres a list of my problems.. Sorry I know it's a lot to read. Any input would be great.

1995 Nissan 240sx ka24de

1.) Car has power (interior lights etc.) I go to turn the key to start the car then I hear the motor turn almost as if the battery is low on power then I just get "click click click click" It'll do this everytime. It seems that it only did this once I replaced the battery terminals...

side note: I got the battery tested at advance auto it said it was good and took a charge, then I went to start the car and the same thing continued.

When I have the key turned to the "on" position and have the radio on or lights or something the power will cut out then come back on right after it cuts off.

2.) When I first start the car, sometimes it will idle almost at 2,000 rpms then if I mess with the heater or give it some more gas, it'll idle back down around 900 or so. Lately it's been idling high for about 5 mins then it goes back to normal

3.) When driving, theres a noise that sounds like a sputtering or tapping. Possibly from having an aftermarket header on? When I go faster it gets louder and faster. Also when I have the pedal to the floor I feel a hesitation (just put in new ngk IX iridium spark plugs, wires)

4.) When I start up the car it wont always stay on unless I hold the gas pedal down for a second or so. After that second, it'll idle fine.
thanks

JRwerks · 06-22-2009, 11:00 PM

hmmm sounds like the problem i had but i forgot what i did too fix it! bad ground?

*ManoNegra* · 06-23-2009, 08:08 AM

Too much shit going on
check to make sure all your sensors - maf, tps, etc - are plugged in well
check for vacuum leaks
pull codes off ecu

mmaxeyjr · 06-23-2009, 09:29 PM

i guess laquer thinner eats plastic? was using it to clean lense...

what would you expect if you saw this under your car one morning?

mmaxeyjr · 06-26-2009, 10:31 PM

so i took off the oil pan. cleaned it all up put on rtv silicone high temp (black) on the pan then I laid down the felpro cork gasket on the oil pan.

bolted the pan back on. put some rtv around the edges just in case. let it sit without oil or anything for 18 hours.

added oil in the morning. drove it for 15 minutes. came back home looked under the car and it's dripping just as bad if not worse..

not 100% sure if it's leaking from just the pan, or the front main seal as well as the pan... this is being a pain.

genericforumname · 06-26-2009, 11:15 PM

you say your car cuts out and didn't start and whatnot, does this happen when you try to start to car while the A/C is on? mine has had that problem also for a while, I also found out after one alternator died that somehow I got the weaker non-SE version (from the factory) you might want to make sure you gut the correct one. (I think the SE is 60 and base is 50?) it wont solve all your problems but that could be one less thing thing.

for s14 BTW, dunno if you have something else.

mmaxeyjr · 06-27-2009, 09:16 AM

it's a 95 base model. I found out the starting problem. It was my battery.

ericcastro · 06-27-2009, 10:25 AM

yeah, battery.
your car needs to hold idle to warm up.
but that seems kind of long.
figure out what controls that idle warm up and make sure it works.

Probably front seal.
easily doable, just real time consuming.
make sure you dont have any metal in your oil.
that sputter could just be an exhaust leak.
or check where your headers come out for leaks.

mmaxeyjr · 07-28-2009, 09:53 PM

replaced battery with optima red top added a 2g grounding kit and new terminals. and i havnt had starting issues since.

exhaust still makes a sputtering noise. I'm thinking its the header gasket and or gasket between test pipe and header

leak was most definately the crank seal (front main) looks like the pulley was scored had a circular cut in it maybe a rock got stuck on it and spun around with it for a long time. put some rtv on it for a quick fix. doesnt leak anymore.

clutch pedal is held in place by a wooden block which is why it feels so bad. i'm hoping i have a s14 pedal and not the s13 one... (need to fix still)

I still get idling issues however not nearly as bad and it doesnt die when i first start it up anymore. i'm thinking something is just gummed up somewhere i'm thinking about seafoaming it soon.

got new headlight lenses and put them on. was a pain but I heated up the oven to about 200 degrees F and put them in for about 5 minutes took them out and pried them off. tar gets really gooey. becareful not to melt any of your housing.

06-22-2009, 10:52 PM	#1
mmaxeyjr Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Lancaster County Posts: 162 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Help Please.. ka24de Heres a list of my problems.. Sorry I know it's a lot to read. Any input would be great. 1995 Nissan 240sx ka24de 1.) Car has power (interior lights etc.) I go to turn the key to start the car then I hear the motor turn almost as if the battery is low on power then I just get "click click click click" It'll do this everytime. It seems that it only did this once I replaced the battery terminals... side note: I got the battery tested at advance auto it said it was good and took a charge, then I went to start the car and the same thing continued. When I have the key turned to the "on" position and have the radio on or lights or something the power will cut out then come back on right after it cuts off. 2.) When I first start the car, sometimes it will idle almost at 2,000 rpms then if I mess with the heater or give it some more gas, it'll idle back down around 900 or so. Lately it's been idling high for about 5 mins then it goes back to normal 3.) When driving, theres a noise that sounds like a sputtering or tapping. Possibly from having an aftermarket header on? When I go faster it gets louder and faster. Also when I have the pedal to the floor I feel a hesitation (just put in new ngk IX iridium spark plugs, wires) 4.) When I start up the car it wont always stay on unless I hold the gas pedal down for a second or so. After that second, it'll idle fine. thanks

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06-22-2009, 11:00 PM	#2
JRwerks Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: SOCAL Posts: 1,200 Trader Rating: (55) Feedback Score: 55 reviews	hmmm sounds like the problem i had but i forgot what i did too fix it! bad ground?

06-23-2009, 08:08 AM	#3
ManoNegra Guild of Skullduggerous Intent Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Socal Posts: 7,841 Trader Rating: (48) Feedback Score: 48 reviews	Too much shit going on check to make sure all your sensors - maf, tps, etc - are plugged in well check for vacuum leaks pull codes off ecu

06-23-2009, 09:29 PM	#4
mmaxeyjr Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Lancaster County Posts: 162 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	i guess laquer thinner eats plastic? was using it to clean lense... what would you expect if you saw this under your car one morning?

06-26-2009, 10:31 PM	#5
mmaxeyjr Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Lancaster County Posts: 162 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	so i took off the oil pan. cleaned it all up put on rtv silicone high temp (black) on the pan then I laid down the felpro cork gasket on the oil pan. bolted the pan back on. put some rtv around the edges just in case. let it sit without oil or anything for 18 hours. added oil in the morning. drove it for 15 minutes. came back home looked under the car and it's dripping just as bad if not worse.. not 100% sure if it's leaking from just the pan, or the front main seal as well as the pan... this is being a pain.

06-26-2009, 11:15 PM	#6
genericforumname Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Florida, where we prove that shit does in fact run down hill Age: 36 Posts: 229 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	you say your car cuts out and didn't start and whatnot, does this happen when you try to start to car while the A/C is on? mine has had that problem also for a while, I also found out after one alternator died that somehow I got the weaker non-SE version (from the factory) you might want to make sure you gut the correct one. (I think the SE is 60 and base is 50?) it wont solve all your problems but that could be one less thing thing. for s14 BTW, dunno if you have something else.

06-27-2009, 09:16 AM	#7
mmaxeyjr Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Lancaster County Posts: 162 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	it's a 95 base model. I found out the starting problem. It was my battery.

07-28-2009, 09:53 PM	#9
mmaxeyjr Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Lancaster County Posts: 162 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	replaced battery with optima red top added a 2g grounding kit and new terminals. and i havnt had starting issues since. exhaust still makes a sputtering noise. I'm thinking its the header gasket and or gasket between test pipe and header leak was most definately the crank seal (front main) looks like the pulley was scored had a circular cut in it maybe a rock got stuck on it and spun around with it for a long time. put some rtv on it for a quick fix. doesnt leak anymore. clutch pedal is held in place by a wooden block which is why it feels so bad. i'm hoping i have a s14 pedal and not the s13 one... (need to fix still) I still get idling issues however not nearly as bad and it doesnt die when i first start it up anymore. i'm thinking something is just gummed up somewhere i'm thinking about seafoaming it soon. got new headlight lenses and put them on. was a pain but I heated up the oven to about 200 degrees F and put them in for about 5 minutes took them out and pried them off. tar gets really gooey. becareful not to melt any of your housing.