Clutch Engagement High

[ges311]

I am finally getting my S13 240 back on the road and started to notice that the clutch engagement just didn't feel right. I tried a ton of things to try to remedy this but nothing has worked so far. Basically the engagement is right at the top of the pedal. Adjusting the push rod has done nothing but move engagement very slightly and re-bleeding hasn't helped.

My Original setup:
93 S13 240sx automatic with 5speed SR swap.
Nabco/Tokico Clutch Master Cylinder from FRSport.com
Nabco/Tokico Clutch Slave Cylinder from FRSport.com
Earl's Stainless Steel Clutch Line from FRSport.com
S13 pedal from junk yard
Speed Bleeder on slave
No damper box.
Stock hardline bent to fit clutch line.
Castrol dot 5.1 fluid

I originally thought the bad engagement was due to the fluid or the speed bleeder was leaking. So I removed the speed bleeder and the changed fluid to dot 3. This didn't help at all.

Then I was thinking maybe the dot5.1 damaged the slave cylinder...so I replaced the slave with the one that came on the sr transmission. This didn't help much either. It did seem to remove some play in the fork though.

After some thinking I determined it has to be the master cylinder. If it was a bad slave or air in the fluid I think the engagement would be closer to the floor. I know many people have said that it can be adjusted out but I have tried to adjsut the rod to both extremes.

So now I have ordered a new master cylinder from rockauto.com hoping it is exactly s13 spec. Maybe the master cylinder I got from frsport is not exactly oem spec and the rod length is slightly different. I did stumble onto a thread speculating there is a difference between a s13 and s14 master cylinder.

So basically I am looking to see if anyone else has experienced this problem with new clutch hydralics or maybe someone has some insight into possible reasons for this.

I'll post up my results with the new master cylinder when I get it this weekend.

[clark]

research what the clutch damper box is used for.

you have no buffer between your master and slave cylinder when you remove the damper box. the second you push the clutch pedal, it's cerating pressure. the fluid has no other where to go than to push the slave cylinder out.


i too have high clutch engagement because i removed my damper. it happens about 1.5-2.5 inches after i press.

i have no leaks or problems with my clutch system, so i wrote this off as a side effect of removing the bleeder.

plus when you remove the bleeder it basically turns your pedal into more of an on off switch.

[ges311]

I was thinking about the damper box as well. I didn't see anything about engagement point and damper box but I'll have to do a little more research.

It would make sense since the clutch is getting engaged in first few mm of the slave cylinder travel and the damper might delay that movement.

My clutch engagement is about .75 to 1 inch from the top. I am hoping a different master cylinder might improve it slightly.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Get rid and bypass the dampner box, rebleed the line and adjust your clutch pedal...

[ges311]

I am not using the damper box and I did rebleed it. I don't see how bleeding will help since the master cylinder is actuating the slave just fine. I have also tried to adjust with no big improvement.

[ges311]

Ok...so I replaced the master cylinder with a new one, adjusted the pedal, and it didn't make a big difference at all. So I am thinking about trying to install a damper box. I think I might be the only person on earth to want one.