Clutch not working after 5 speed swap - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Silvia180SX · 08-06-2003, 02:37 PM

I did a 5 speed swap on my s13 and the clutch isn't working right. I bled it and did the normal stuff like filling the transmission but whenever I put it in gear the engine mostly just revs and the trans just moves the car slowly along. Also when I leave it in first I can let off the clutch all the way and the car just idles without dieing. Clutch master cylinder bad??

mbmbmb23 · 08-06-2003, 08:02 PM

Sounds to me like the clutch isn't fully engaging. I would try adjusting the nut behind the fork on your clutch MC shaft (behind the clutch pedal). After you adjust this nut, you should get more effect per push on the clutch pedal. Do you have to keep adding fluid to the resorvoir? If so then thats the problem...otherwise I'd try adjusting the nut. Does anyone else have any ideas???

-m

orion::S14 · 08-06-2003, 09:29 PM

Sounds like the clutch is not engaging...so it nothing to do witht eh clutch pedal adjustment, or bleeding the lines (unless they've built up and are holding pressure).

If you removed the clutch pedal and hydraulics form the car, it should engage still completely...

Sounds like there's either a bad clutch install, or something is holding the clutch fork out against the pressure plate, not allowing the PP to clamp down on the disc.

Dunno...?

What clutch/flywheel combo did you use...?

Later - Brian

TBreu007 · 08-06-2003, 09:47 PM

A bad clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder wouldn't let you put the car in gear without severe grinding. An improperly bled clutch line would do the same thing.

Maybe the clutch fork or another part of the clutch/throwout bearing assembly wasn't installed correctly.

Silvia180SX · 08-07-2003, 10:37 AM

I used a centerforce clutch and a stock flywheel. I don't think it's a throwout bearing because there would be a lot of grinding noise whenever I would try to press in the clutch. There's not, the feeling on the clutch is just kind of spongey and when I press down all the way and let off fast, it doesn't come back as fast as it should. Again my problem isn't that I can't get it into gear, it doesn't want to let go.

mbmbmb23 · 08-07-2003, 02:31 PM

Your symptoms are THE EXACT same things that happened to me (no pedal feel....and clutch pedal had to be pulled back off the floor by hand). When you push your clutch pedal down, it pushes a rod that has a two pronged fork attaching it to the pedal, and on the other end of the rod there is a sealed plunger that pushes the fluid through the body of the MC...and through the lines. If the nut that adjusts the length of the MC rod isn't adjusted, the plunger inside the MC wont push as far...thus engaging your clutch partially. If you've already checked (everywhere) for fluid leakage and there is none, and you're sure you've bled all points in correct order...then you have nothing to lose by at least trying to adjust the nut.

-m

Silvia180SX · 08-07-2003, 09:55 PM

Well, I adjusted the nut on the back of the master cylinder and made it so the shaft would go in further. After everything was tight, I pressed the pedal a few times and noticed a lack of pressure. I checked the fluid and it was low so I added some. I pressed the pedal a few times and heard fluid hitting the floor. I looked under the car and all the bleeder valves were tight but a huge leak in the slave cylinder boot was leaking fluid all over the floor. I'll let you guys know when I replace the slave, but the car will remain parked until then I guess.

mbmbmb23 · 08-08-2003, 10:57 AM

I believe that Nissan sells the SC for like $20-30, and there maybe a rebuild kit for it also which would be really cheap. At least you found out what the problem was!!

-m

Silvia180SX · 08-11-2003, 11:01 AM

Anyone know of a good place to order a slave cylinder? I'm being quoted at 59 to 74 dollars for a ****ing slave cylinder. It's California, they rape us on everything. No dealership has them in stock either. Any sites that sell factory Nissan parts?

mbmbmb23 · 08-11-2003, 11:04 AM

http://www.courtesyparts.com/S13_clutch.html

+ SH from Texas tho.

08-06-2003, 02:37 PM	#1
Silvia180SX Leaky Injector Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Cali Posts: 68 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Clutch not working after 5 speed swap I did a 5 speed swap on my s13 and the clutch isn't working right. I bled it and did the normal stuff like filling the transmission but whenever I put it in gear the engine mostly just revs and the trans just moves the car slowly along. Also when I leave it in first I can let off the clutch all the way and the car just idles without dieing. Clutch master cylinder bad??

08-06-2003, 09:47 PM	#4
TBreu007 Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fat, drunk and stupid is no way to go through life, son... Age: 48 Posts: 95 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	A bad clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder wouldn't let you put the car in gear without severe grinding. An improperly bled clutch line would do the same thing. Maybe the clutch fork or another part of the clutch/throwout bearing assembly wasn't installed correctly. __________________ '92 240sx Improved Touring "S" race car '89 240sx etc., etc. Last edited by TBreu007; 08-06-2003 at 09:49 PM..

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08-06-2003, 08:02 PM	#2
mbmbmb23 Zilvia Contributor Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Charlotte, NC. Posts: 1,776 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: mbmbmb23 Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Sounds to me like the clutch isn't fully engaging. I would try adjusting the nut behind the fork on your clutch MC shaft (behind the clutch pedal). After you adjust this nut, you should get more effect per push on the clutch pedal. Do you have to keep adding fluid to the resorvoir? If so then thats the problem...otherwise I'd try adjusting the nut. Does anyone else have any ideas??? -m

08-06-2003, 09:29 PM	#3
orion::S14 Nissanaholic! Join Date: May 2003 Location: Orange Park, FL Posts: 1,666 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Sounds like the clutch is not engaging...so it nothing to do witht eh clutch pedal adjustment, or bleeding the lines (unless they've built up and are holding pressure). If you removed the clutch pedal and hydraulics form the car, it should engage still completely... Sounds like there's either a bad clutch install, or something is holding the clutch fork out against the pressure plate, not allowing the PP to clamp down on the disc. Dunno...? What clutch/flywheel combo did you use...? Later - Brian

08-07-2003, 10:37 AM	#5
Silvia180SX Leaky Injector Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Cali Posts: 68 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I used a centerforce clutch and a stock flywheel. I don't think it's a throwout bearing because there would be a lot of grinding noise whenever I would try to press in the clutch. There's not, the feeling on the clutch is just kind of spongey and when I press down all the way and let off fast, it doesn't come back as fast as it should. Again my problem isn't that I can't get it into gear, it doesn't want to let go.

08-07-2003, 02:31 PM	#6
mbmbmb23 Zilvia Contributor Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Charlotte, NC. Posts: 1,776 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: mbmbmb23 Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Your symptoms are THE EXACT same things that happened to me (no pedal feel....and clutch pedal had to be pulled back off the floor by hand). When you push your clutch pedal down, it pushes a rod that has a two pronged fork attaching it to the pedal, and on the other end of the rod there is a sealed plunger that pushes the fluid through the body of the MC...and through the lines. If the nut that adjusts the length of the MC rod isn't adjusted, the plunger inside the MC wont push as far...thus engaging your clutch partially. If you've already checked (everywhere) for fluid leakage and there is none, and you're sure you've bled all points in correct order...then you have nothing to lose by at least trying to adjust the nut. -m

08-07-2003, 09:55 PM	#7
Silvia180SX Leaky Injector Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Cali Posts: 68 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Well, I adjusted the nut on the back of the master cylinder and made it so the shaft would go in further. After everything was tight, I pressed the pedal a few times and noticed a lack of pressure. I checked the fluid and it was low so I added some. I pressed the pedal a few times and heard fluid hitting the floor. I looked under the car and all the bleeder valves were tight but a huge leak in the slave cylinder boot was leaking fluid all over the floor. I'll let you guys know when I replace the slave, but the car will remain parked until then I guess.

08-08-2003, 10:57 AM	#8
mbmbmb23 Zilvia Contributor Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Charlotte, NC. Posts: 1,776 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: mbmbmb23 Feedback Score: 1 reviews	I believe that Nissan sells the SC for like $20-30, and there maybe a rebuild kit for it also which would be really cheap. At least you found out what the problem was!! -m

08-11-2003, 11:01 AM	#9
Silvia180SX Leaky Injector Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Cali Posts: 68 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Anyone know of a good place to order a slave cylinder? I'm being quoted at 59 to 74 dollars for a ****ing slave cylinder. It's California, they rape us on everything. No dealership has them in stock either. Any sites that sell factory Nissan parts?

08-11-2003, 11:04 AM	#10
mbmbmb23 Zilvia Contributor Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Charlotte, NC. Posts: 1,776 Trader Rating: (1) Rides Gallery: mbmbmb23 Feedback Score: 1 reviews	http://www.courtesyparts.com/S13_clutch.html + SH from Texas tho.