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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Slow Response from petal?
Theres about a 1.5 sec delay from the time I press the acceleration pedal, to when my rpm needle actually moves.
Is this due to a old throttle cable? I already tried adjusting it so that the cable is tight on the throttle body. ANyone have any input?
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#3 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Well is there a 1.5s delay to when the engine actually revs tho?
Imagine you dont have an RPM gauge at all, if you press the pedal does it instantly rev or it has a 1.5sec delay aswell, this would determine where the fault may actually really be.
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#8 |
Zilvia Junkie
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if you can replicate this by going out to the engine a opening the throttle manually then you know its not the cable. if it doesnt then yeah its the cable. did you chech the slack inside at the pedal?
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#10 | |
Post Whore!
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Quote:
why would you want to rev your car before its warmed up? That's causing damage
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#12 |
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Are we not from the same planet? Logically the answer would be TPS!
yes the answer is not always the logical or obvious but just guessing and shit is stupid. I would test in this order: Check ecu for codes, Check and adjust tps voltage(open and closed). Then verify and adjust timing. If by then, the correct results were not produced, I would start looking at other possible problem areas. Also does it kind of break up before the rev? like there's carb cleaner, etc in there. Anyway my educated guess is TPS.
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#13 |
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Im telling you, its the coolant temperature sensor. The CTS reads how warm the engine is- the ECU makes significant adjustments to the air fuel ratio when the engine is warming up. Warm up fuel maps are very different from fuel maps for operating temperature, and the only way the ECU can tell the difference is with that sensor. The CTS tells the ECU when the engine is warm. If the problem is occurring only when the car is warm, chances are because the CTS is not working properly, making the car run as if its warmed up when it is still cold. If the ECU is thinking that the car is warm when it is actually cold, it wont be giving the proper amounts of fuel and air, and will cause the car to run shitty. This can also happen the other way around- with the car running well when its cold, but running poorly when its warm. In either case, the culprit is usually the coolant temp sensor.
Throttle Position Sensor wouldnt explain why it does it when the engine is cold, but not once warmed up. That is the exact symptom of a bad CTS. |
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#14 |
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In correct it wouldn't matter if it was hot or cold for the tps to be the culprit.
Coolant temp sensor, has multiple errors that are visual and audible, he is not acknowledging any of them. So using deductive reasoning, its logical to say it's the tps. If the ecu has learned the value maybe not so much when warmed up. some of the cts problems would be, rich idle, rpm fluxing, and hard to start warm or cold, and maybe a code or two. The symptoms are not exact in anyway, we could have asked a multitude of questions to narrow down the solution, but this is zilvia! you tell us the problems we don't tell you...! OK sometimes, but whatever! Not saying its not cts, just i wouldn't start there 1st in this situation.
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#18 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
You ask whats wrong and people give u Ideas of what It could be, fuckin douche bag. Your the dumbass who cant get his car running right and then say dont comment If your guessing.
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#20 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Yeah it's the TPS. Not to mention we dont even know what motor we are talking about here. But i almost postive it's the TPS. The CTS really doesn't effect throttle response. It effects idle and and crusing but not throttle response. When you give the car gas it should rev.
TPS, check voltage shit take like 5 minutes. If it's less or more then .35-.45 volts at closed throttle then thats your problem. BTW this is not a guess, had the same problem with my SR. @240-123 the OP never said anything about warm or cold. And even still it would happen regardless of temp if the TPS is outta wack. |
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#21 |
Nissanaholic!
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All of you are a bunch of clowns and are not necessarily right.
I have this problem, and it is NOT the TPS or the CTS. I have done many different tests to be able to verify that it is neither. I think it is something to do with the injectors or IACV needing to physically warm up or heat up and get "unstuck" after not having been driven a while....probably the IACV.
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#22 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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I mean the TPS is the most likely culprit here. He needs to take 5 minutes and throw a voltmeter on it. If not the we can hunt for the more elusive stuff. I have never seen a IAVC cause this symptom . Not saying it's not the problem but the TPS is a quick and easy check and fix It would help to know what motor we are even talking about. I mean a big vac leak can cause this symptom. EDIT now i see the post where he says after it warms up it stops. It could be the CTS or the IAVC i guess. Maybe try cleaning the IAVC sounds like a good idea. Maybe a seafoam treatment would help to. |
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#23 | ||
Zilvia FREAK!
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Haha WOW. Seriously? Who the fuck are you again? GTFO of my thread Git. Anybody can chime in and say "I think its this, or I think it's that" without actually having my same problem. I'm not shooting people down for their comments. It just the guy who said something and I fucking quote "bad timing or hesitates before revving" WTF? C mon now. I'm not some fucking 19/21 yr old kid who doesnt know WTF he's doing. Quote:
One thing I noticed is that I really dont think my throttle body is a "GENUINE" SR20det throttle body as it looks different and never really looked into it. Also, even when I was stock turbine and ECU my car would not have this problem. Not sure if this may be a problem but TPS is not centered on the adjustment part (bought the car this way.) Never gave me problems before all the upgraded parts went on...My tuner did point out my TPS and how it was like maxed out on the adjustment. I'll try and get some pics to show you what Im talking about.
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#25 |
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[QUOTE=Luvs2slide;3801691].
Haha WOW. Seriously? Who the fuck are you again? GTFO of my thread Git. Anybody can chime in and say "I think its this, or I think it's that" without actually having my same problem. I'm not shooting people down for their comments. It just the guy who said something and I fucking quote "bad timing or hesitates before revving" WTF? C mon now. I'm not some fucking 19/21 yr old kid who doesnt know WTF he's doing. Hmm this Is funny you knock me for being 21 yet I would have been fixed this issue with my car. I'm 21 years old and I'm sure I can do twice as much as you, Uhh guys my revs slow what ever will I do?!? Check for vacum leaks dumbass, Check you Idle air control valve.
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#26 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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![]() ![]() I HIGHLY doubt that. This is much deeper than mere vac leaks. My IACV is functional. If JSpeath (sp) has been having this SAME PROBLEM for nearly two years, its more than that thing you call a brain can think of. I'm not selling anything or buying anything so there isn't a damn thing you can contribute to my thread. Anyways, back on topic--
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#27 |
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Rather than arguing about the possibilities, why dont we wait for OP to test his TPS, CTS, and IACV?
Im not opposed to the idea of it being something other than the CTS and I acknowledge the reasoning behind both other diagnosis', but until the OP confirms what the problem was, any arguing is purely speculation. If the TPS was maxed out in one direction, why not adjust it to the middle and see if that doesnt make a difference? Or check it with a voltmeter? If it were me, Id have "fiddled around" with it (for lack of a better term) just to see if I could get it to do something different. Start with free things- test IACV, test TPS, then replace CTS. |
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#28 | |
Post Whore!
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Here Is a list of why It would do that Incase your little 28 year old brain can't figure It out/ Maf Tps Iacv Vac leaks cam timing off cas timing off wiring Issue or (grounds) Instead of saying no Its not any of those everything Is perfect , you should just go fukin check and test. Maybe It could be one Instead of oh no my engine Is perfect but It has rev delays. There for making It not perfect and something Is wrong. Call me a little kid but this little kid can do a hell of alot more than you can. Uhhh Im jus gonna stand here and scratch my head uhhhh, da engine revs slow duhhhhh. everything Is perfect but for some reason It doesn't rev right. Uhhhh which way did he go. Which way did he go. Mama always said life Is like a box of chocolates.
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#29 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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![]() I Never said my engine was perfect. I'm not wasting anymore of my time with you. Its like talking to a kid. Goes in one ear, out the other. You are adding non-resourceful bullshit to this thread and I already told you to GTFO before mods close this thread.
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#30 |
Zilvia Junkie
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You and me have almost the exact same setup. A good thing is that you have a Power FC which makes checking the TPS voltage easy as pie.
Take the commander and go down the ETC. menu. The go to Sensor Check menu. You can check the TPS voltage without a voltmeter here. While in the car and watching the PFC commander press the gas petal. Closed throttle should be between .35-.45 volts. WOT should be 4.8-5.0 volts or more. Now while still watching the PFC, press the petal all the way to the floor. The voltage should now be reading 4.8-5.0 or over on the PFC commander. If not then you have to adjust the TPS on the throttle body. Loosen the screws and slightly move it up or down. Then use the PFC commander to monitor the voltage change. I can tell the SR's are very finicky with the tps and throttle rseponse. Also what kinda HP did you make at what boost? and what kind of dyno if don't mind me asking? |
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