Headgasket thickness?

[2stepGoesPowPow]

Im aiming for around 375 hp, stock internals, i just order'd arp head studs, about to order an apexi head gasket, i plan to boost a max of 20lbs, should i get stock head gasket thickness? or go thicker and lower compression?, thanks..

[MadScientist]

are you decking the block or head?

1.1. -1.2 are common for basic upgrade... its not enough your going to notice a huge difference.

Now if you want a suggestion on what headgasket to get... Power Ent. if you can destroy it... it wasn't the problem!!

[GSXRJJordan]

What turbo? 20psi on a T28-sized turbo might not get you there. I'd go lower thickness and methanol injection personally, but higher thickness and more boost could work if you're on something other than pump gas.

Shooting for a hp goal is setting yourself up for disappointment. Choose components based on what works best with what, and let the power number fall where it will.

[2stepGoesPowPow]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

What turbo? 20psi on a T28-sized turbo might not get you there. I'd go lower thickness and methanol injection personally, but higher thickness and more boost could work if you're on something other than pump gas.

Shooting for a hp goal is setting yourself up for disappointment. Choose components based on what works best with what, and let the power number fall where it will.

Im just ordering the last of my 2871 build, but this is what i have so far:

GT2871R .64 a/r
Nistune
Z32 Maf
Isis Turbo lines
tomei exhaust manifold
HKS actuator
300zx fuel filter

And now I'm ordering the last of the parts which is:
Isis rocker arm stoppers [because apparently "Unlike the mild steel HKS or Greddy ones, these stainless RAS will not chip nor rust under extensive use and abuse."]
Arp Head Studs
Apexi Headgasket
Nismo type B Regulartor & Bracket & Gauge
740cc Tomei Injectors

but i don't plan on making 375 until i get JWT S3 cams, And i contemplated going e85 since theres a pump a half a mile from my house and it'd be a lot cheaper then 93 octane but idk.

[Pinggg]

Originally Posted by 2stepGoesPowPow

Im just ordering the last of my 2871 build, but this is what i have so far:

GT2871R .64 a/r
Nistune
Z32 Maf
Isis Turbo lines
tomei exhaust manifold
HKS actuator
300zx fuel filter

And now I'm ordering the last of the parts which is:
Isis rocker arm stoppers [because apparently "Unlike the mild steel HKS or Greddy ones, these stainless RAS will not chip nor rust under extensive use and abuse."]
Arp Head Studs
Apexi Headgasket
Nismo type B Regulartor & Bracket & Gauge
740cc Tomei Injectors

but i don't plan on making 375 until i get JWT S3 cams, And i contemplated going e85 since theres a pump a half a mile from my house and it'd be a lot cheaper then 93 octane but idk.

Go E-85 and you'll love it..

except for the gas mileage lol

[2stepGoesPowPow]

Originally Posted by Pinggg

Go E-85 and you'll love it..

except for the gas mileage lol

Lol i tryed researching but id need much bigger injectors, setup my vacuum line a special way, double pump fuel pump, and other stuff i think I'm just gonna hit this 375ish goal first then if i want more power just switch to e85

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by 2stepGoesPowPow

Im just ordering the last of my 2871 build, but this is what i have so far:

GT2871R .64 a/r
Nistune
Z32 Maf
Isis Turbo lines
tomei exhaust manifold
HKS actuator
300zx fuel filter

And now I'm ordering the last of the parts which is:
Isis rocker arm stoppers [because apparently "Unlike the mild steel HKS or Greddy ones, these stainless RAS will not chip nor rust under extensive use and abuse."]
Arp Head Studs
Apexi Headgasket
Nismo type B Regulartor & Bracket & Gauge
740cc Tomei Injectors

but i don't plan on making 375 until i get JWT S3 cams, And i contemplated going e85 since theres a pump a half a mile from my house and it'd be a lot cheaper then 93 octane but idk.

You can max the turbocharger with 93 octane and get great fuel economy, so there is no reason to switch to E85.
That is a typical cookie cutter setup, keep it that way and it will be reliable.
if this is an S13 engine with the OEM intake manifold, I would resist the temptation to turn the boost past 12psi until you get those S3 cams. Reason is that the S13 intake with that turbocharger and OEM camshafts has one hell of a peak torque spike and even with 93 octane and 12* of ignition timing I have seen the engine ping at that location. The S3's will smooth the peak.

The only things I would change (due to personal preference) is Power-FC (MAF), and OEM exhaust manifold (possibly extrude honed) internal gate.

I would also leave off the fuel pressure regulator, use the OEM rail and regulator. A single true walbro in the fuel tank (make sure you buy authentic walbro) will work with those injectors without any need to bump the fuel pressure.

I am not "against" using a tomei manifold, but many people do not support their exhaust system properly to keep it well maintained. make sure to use the exhaust hanger that ties to the transmission mount, for instance. Also, bolt the exhaust system up from the turbocharger back.

as to the headgasket- usually, thinner is better for physical longevity of the block and head. it will give you less "quench" less space between the head and the block, that is a good thing. Only time to increase the space there is when you need to lower compression a fraction of a point for peace of mind.

[2stepGoesPowPow]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

You can max the turbocharger with 93 octane and get great fuel economy, so there is no reason to switch to E85.
That is a typical cookie cutter setup, keep it that way and it will be reliable.
if this is an S13 engine with the OEM intake manifold, I would resist the temptation to turn the boost past 12psi until you get those S3 cams. Reason is that the S13 intake with that turbocharger and OEM camshafts has one hell of a peak torque spike and even with 93 octane and 12* of ignition timing I have seen the engine ping at that location. The S3's will smooth the peak.

The only things I would change (due to personal preference) is Power-FC (MAF), and OEM exhaust manifold (possibly extrude honed) internal gate.

I would also leave off the fuel pressure regulator, use the OEM rail and regulator. A single true walbro in the fuel tank (make sure you buy authentic walbro) will work with those injectors without any need to bump the fuel pressure.

I am not "against" using a tomei manifold, but many people do not support their exhaust system properly to keep it well maintained. make sure to use the exhaust hanger that ties to the transmission mount, for instance. Also, bolt the exhaust system up from the turbocharger back.

as to the headgasket- usually, thinner is better for physical longevity of the block and head. it will give you less "quench" less space between the head and the block, that is a good thing. Only time to increase the space there is when you need to lower compression a fraction of a point for peace of mind.

Ive never been suggested the power-fc.. why do you suggest it? also i was going to go with extrude honed stock manifold with external gate but I'm already loving my tomei manifold like a dumb kid staring at something shiny lol. also for my exhaust piping i plan on using the greddy elbow, tomei manifold, greddy down pipe, test pipe and greddy TIC, so far i have the TI-C and tomei manifold. my car already has some no-name turbo back so until i get the money for the other exhaust parts ill use those. and i went ahead and order'd all the rest of my parts last night. stock thickness it is.

[2stepGoesPowPow]

$^#%@#$#%!!!!!!!, 240sxmotoring is out of the apexi head gasket in stock thickness.. I'm either gonna go worth the cosworth stock thickness gasket or hopefully FRsport has the apexi head gasket in stock.

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by 2stepGoesPowPow

Ive never been suggested the power-fc.. why do you suggest it?

Keeping everything as cost effective as possible, the Power FC is the cheapest most reliable plug and play stand alone ECU for the SR20DET that I have ever seen. If you do not intend to tune the vehicle yourself then a person doing so will have the FC-Datalogit which turns the Power FC into a very powerful device, capable of tuning nearly any aftermarket modifications. I have personally tuned 800RWHP RB26 engines using the power FC as easily or more easily than any other ECU available.
It is always my first choice when it is available- they can be purchased usually for about $800 brand new in the box for the MAF engines (ebay).

Compared to a "chipped ecu" the biggest benefit is the on-the-fly changes you can make while driving or sitting in a parking lot. I Don't like the air fuel ratio at [5,000RPM and 2PSI] so I think I will change it at the next stoplight. Tomorrow I am going to install larger injectors so before I start the car I will adapt the fuel map for them. I heard the engine ping going uphill in fifth gear under heavy load so I will remove a few degrees of ignition timing in that spot when I come to a safe place.
See what I am going for?

[2stepGoesPowPow]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

Keeping everything as cost effective as possible, the Power FC is the cheapest most reliable plug and play stand alone ECU for the SR20DET that I have ever seen. If you do not intend to tune the vehicle yourself then a person doing so will have the FC-Datalogit which turns the Power FC into a very powerful device, capable of tuning nearly any aftermarket modifications. I have personally tuned 800RWHP RB26 engines using the power FC as easily or more easily than any other ECU available.
It is always my first choice when it is available- they can be purchased usually for about $800 brand new in the box for the MAF engines (ebay).

Compared to a "chipped ecu" the biggest benefit is the on-the-fly changes you can make while driving or sitting in a parking lot. I Don't like the air fuel ratio at [5,000RPM and 2PSI] so I think I will change it at the next stoplight. Tomorrow I am going to install larger injectors so before I start the car I will adapt the fuel map for them. I heard the engine ping going uphill in fifth gear under heavy load so I will remove a few degrees of ignition timing in that spot when I come to a safe place.
See what I am going for?

I guess but with nistune can't you do the same thing with it hooked up to a laptop..?

[Kingtal0n]

Originally Posted by 2stepGoesPowPow

I guess but with nistune can't you do the same thing with it hooked up to a laptop..?

I never said not to use the nistune, only that my personal preference was to use a Power FC. With the PFC you do not even need a laptop in the car to make subtle changes while out driving around. And the commander makes for a very handy monitoring tool, it will record information about engine knock, coolant temp, boost, maximum rpm, etc... so you no longer need to purchase those gauges. There are many benefits for the price.

[2stepGoesPowPow]

Originally Posted by Kingtal0n

I never said not to use the nistune, only that my personal preference was to use a Power FC. With the PFC you do not even need a laptop in the car to make subtle changes while out driving around. And the commander makes for a very handy monitoring tool, it will record information about engine knock, coolant temp, boost, maximum rpm, etc... so you no longer need to purchase those gauges. There are many benefits for the price.

gotcha, also can someone PLEASE help me out, I'm trying to get this head gasket order'd already but, OEM head gasket size is 1.1mm, but since it isn't metal after its compressed its a little less then that, so would getting an apexi .8mm thick gasket be the same or will that be give me higher compression? or should i just get the 1.1mm apexi gasket.

[2stepGoesPowPow]

and is an s13 redtop sr20 engine bore 86mm or 87?

[Jus Skott]

Originally Posted by 2stepGoesPowPow

Im aiming for around 375 hp, stock internals, i just order'd arp head studs, about to order an apexi head gasket, i plan to boost a max of 20lbs, should i get stock head gasket thickness? or go thicker and lower compression?, thanks..

Originally Posted by 2stepGoesPowPow

Im just ordering the last of my 2871 build, but this is what i have so far:

GT2871R .64 a/r
Nistune
Z32 Maf
Isis Turbo lines
tomei exhaust manifold
HKS actuator
300zx fuel filter

And now I'm ordering the last of the parts which is:
Isis rocker arm stoppers [because apparently "Unlike the mild steel HKS or Greddy ones, these stainless RAS will not chip nor rust under extensive use and abuse."]
Arp Head Studs
Apexi Headgasket
Nismo type B Regulartor & Bracket & Gauge
740cc Tomei Injectors

but i don't plan on making 375 until i get JWT S3 cams, And i contemplated going e85 since theres a pump a half a mile from my house and it'd be a lot cheaper then 93 octane but idk.

Maybe I missed it but what motor? Only reason I ask is my old KA made 311 whp on 9psi with a 5o trim and a bit more on 12 psi.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Are you planning on getting the block decked to match the oil pump cover? If not, just get a stock HG. Fresh set of stock nissan HG is well known to take the beating pass 600hp, mated to ARP head studs.

[2stepGoesPowPow]

Originally Posted by Jus Skott

Maybe I missed it but what motor? Only reason I ask is my old KA made 311 whp on 9psi with a 5o trim and a bit more on 12 psi.

Redtop sr20det

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

Are you planning on getting the block decked to match the oil pump cover? If not, just get a stock HG. Fresh set of stock nissan HG is well known to take the beating pass 600hp, mated to ARP head studs.

Don't plan on doing any internal work, thought about getting a valve job in the future though. and are you sure about the stock head gasket? if its true i might as well just put the head studs in and not even replace the gasket..?

[Jus Skott]

damn, was going to say if it was a ka I have a head gasket I would have thrown your way for a few bones.

[2stepGoesPowPow]

Ok so i guess ARP head studs with the gasket i already have it is. save time & money.