Cutting out under boost after i cleaned n60 mafs

[SilviaT]

sr20det redtop rebuilt forged pistons, oem build. enthulapy tune pre mapped to n60 440cc injectors, headers full exhaust greddy rs bov recirculated internal wastegate t28 turbo.
SO i am missing the C clip to my n60 MAF and sometime when im driving ill notice my idle drop from 900 to about 600 and it will not rev past 2500/3000rpms like its in safe mode.. I get out, wiggle the connection to my MAF and it goes back to normal.. Drives great, pulls hard and idles steady until the connection gets messed up....
So everytime I would have to adjust the plug on the sensor, it would drive great after I made the connection solid.. So I let the car sit for a few days in the garage and thought about what I could do to fix it..
Cleaned my MAFS with MAFS cleaner.
Cleaned my filter with k&n cleaner kit.
Looked at the 4 wires going into the MAFS and made them all snug and tight in the plug.
Reset my ecu, now it's cutting out at boost!!!! Anything after 0psi under 3/4 throttle and it starts to cut out and studder/bog/ run like crap once its getting load....
WTF! It ran fine before, now it'd acting like its in limp mode and only getting code 55 on the ecu! It's an enthlapy tune btw. 440cc and n60 MAFS..
What should I do? Timing? Plugs? ( btw ngk iridium bkr7eix-11 gapped to .028 and at 1800rpm i can hear a buzzing noise coming from the top of my spark plugs and this only started happening after i re-gapped the plugs.) Suggestions pleaaaase!

[jdm213]

when u cleaned ur maf did u remove the sensor itself from the housing ? did you touch it?

[SilviaT]

Originally Posted by jdm213

when u cleaned ur maf did u remove the sensor itself from the housing ? did you touch it?

No I just cleaned it with the MAFS sensor cleaner I got at auto zone and did it the way they directed. I left the sensor itself inside the tube if that's what your asking

[SilviaT]

It chokes out once i build up any boost at all.... Gonna clean my plugs and re gap them tomorrow. suggestions on gap???
ANYBODY have any info that might help me out??!...

[SilviaT]

Helpppppp bumppppppp

[SilviaT]

Gaping my plugs to .022 today. Going to check my wires going into my MAFS plug. (Maybe a bad ground wire) and will check timing with timing light.. Plugs were black and sorta smelt like gasoline..

[SilviaT]

bbbbbbbump!!!

[thisisnotphil1]

Im having a similar problem with my rb. When i put a load on it, it runs stupid lean and it basically starves itself. What computer are you using? Ive heard about sr computers resetting themselves and basically forgetting the tune. Happened to a friend of mine.

[thisisnotphil1]

Im not too familiar about the sr or if thats a common problem but thats what happened

[SilviaT]

Originally Posted by thisisnotphil1

Im having a similar problem with my rb. When i put a load on it, it runs stupid lean and it basically starves itself. What computer are you using? Ive heard about sr computers resetting themselves and basically forgetting the tune. Happened to a friend of mine.

Really? That's what it might be honestly.... I figured my maf might have taken a shit but maybe the ecu did reset itself! That's crazy.. It's a 62 enthulapy tuned ecu tuned in Florida for 440cc ad n60 MAFS.. This problem began once I cleaned my MAFS with crc cleaner. I was careful too

[thisisnotphil1]

I would get another maf that you know works and try that before anything.

[ultimateirving]

Its unlikely your ECU lost its tune.

Dude your symptoms point to boost/vacuum leak. Think about it, if it was a bad maf it would not be driveable, it would be very hesitant/boggy under any load.

Geta boost leak test and test everything from the maf back.

[nickauger]

Try another maf , it is a very sensitive sensor.

[hOngsterr]

i have the same problem, somehow it fixed itself for now, it comes and goes, spark plug gaps are supposed to be for a sr is .28

[SilviaT]

Replaced mafs. Mafs is good now 100%.
Gapped plugs to .25 after a good solid cleaning.
Still getting boost cut/ choking/ studder after 1psi..
Since I was having mafs problems and code being thrown all the time, could that retard timing?
I need to check my timing next. That and fuel filter: pump
Idk what size pump I have.
Starts right up. Revs freely. Sounds healthy. Boost gauge is at -20 like it should be..
Any suggestions??

[SilviaT]

Btw after I made sure mafs is good and did my plugs, went on a drive, came home and #1 plug was black again.. I do not have a a/f gauge. I know I'm running rich. I have a ACCEL DFI fuel pressure regulator (I think) and a fuel pressure gauge. Haven't checked the readings... Not getting boost an it makes me sad!!!

[ultimateirving]

have you boost leak tested this yet noob. Actually get a tester made and boost leak test it. look at post #12.
your freaking falling on your face and running rich because at 1psi its leaking!

[SilviaT]

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

have you boost leak tested this yet noob. Actually get a tester made and boost leak test it. look at post #12.
your freaking falling on your face and running rich because at 1psi its leaking!

No I haven't.
Even if my boost gauge says -20 I could have a leak? I already checked all my couplers but I don't have a tester. Will do though.

[e1_griego]

-20 is vacuum. Boost is boost.

You probably have a coupler that's cut and not obvious.

I have a tester kicking around, but it's easy to make your own. Just need an air compressor.

[ultimateirving]

Originally Posted by SilviaT

No I haven't.
Even if my boost gauge says -20 I could have a leak? I already checked all my couplers but I don't have a tester. Will do though.

-20 is vacuum which means nothing is leaking out. when u hit boost something is opening/leaking and thats causing your issues. Once you hook up the boost leak tester pressurize the system and listen for loud hissing sounds of air escaping. and try to boost leak test at least to ur desired turbo psi.