Greddy 240sx Turbo kit has arrived

[jdzumwalt]

Well tonite I will start installing the greddy turbo kit for my 95 s-14. I'll give my personal opinion of this kit, versous my old f-max set up. I don't have the intercooler as the kit not carb legal yet when it does I'll show that big front mouth off. I bought my kit from Speed Alliance if you in san diego there a great shop to go to. Got in less than 1 week. I ordered on tuesday picked up today.





Gregg

[S14DRFTER]

Good Luck with the install, I just got my kit on Friday and will start on it this week. I am also putting it on a 95 240sxse, I know we will have to remap the e manage since it is setup for OBDII and ours is OBDI. But I still have to figure that all out and find maps if they are available or else go to a shop and get it setup. I also got the FMIC. Keep me posted on the install and any problems you run into and I will do the same (but you will probably have yours finished before me)

[TachyonS14]

Yes, please give info on how you like the kit because I can't get enough ;-p I plan on taking out a loan from the bank so I can be boostin.

[Ghst 01]

I am in the middle og installing the kit my self..... currently i have the car at the shop getting the oil return line done..... one word of advice be carfull when ur taking off ur header i broke my EGR pipe and now i have to wait a week or so to get another one due to it's special order item and i had to go through the dealer to get it... also make sure they sent you all the right parts especially the bolts and stuff i had to learn the hard way they sent me the wrong shit... in the middle of installing the turbine..... also GREDDY CUSTOMER SERVICE SUCKS ASS.

[jdzumwalt]

Red did this install on his 95 240. The emanage does not have to be messed with. The fuel maps are the same from 95 to 98. Just maybe a tad leaner in the later years for smog.


Gregg

[Red]

I'm not sure if I’m lean or rich... I think rich...

BUT!

I will be getting the 02 bung installed on my downpipe so I can attach my wideband and see wtf is going on with it.

[jdzumwalt]

Well Tonight I accually started. Total parts missing from the sealed box. Injector harness, vacuum three way splitter and NO instruction. (downloaded from there site)

Everything is going smooth except for the removal of the oil pan. It's a bit more involving than I originally expected.

well I'll keep everybody informed on this kit

[Ghst 01]

Originally Posted by jdzumwalt

Well Tonight I accually started. Total parts missing from the sealed box. Injector harness, vacuum three way splitter and NO instruction. (downloaded from there site)

Everything is going smooth except for the removal of the oil pan. It's a bit more involving than I originally expected.

well I'll keep everybody informed on this kit

My kit was also missing the 3way vacume fitting too... greddy charges like $6.00 for it.... what i did was just went kragen or something and bought the plastic ones that work the same..... good luck on the injector harnesses.... greddy is probably gonna charge u a bit for them.....and in regards to the oil pan... getting it out is the easy part but putting back in is gonna be a bitch since the oil return pie hits everything... so ended up have to take my ac off in order to make it fit.

[ghostuss]

Gl with the kit. I heard nothing but bitching about the kit from the guy on top ^^^^^^^^^ ghost01. For example, " The worst piece of shit Greddy ever made."

HA

[eyustfu]

i have spare injector harnesses if your interested, brand new still...as for my greddy kit, everything was in the box

[S14DRFTER]

I just started on my kit also (I was going to do a write-up on it here w/pics). Yesterday I started to remove the pan and realized that the entire cross member,sway bar, and tension rods must be loosed in order to get it out. (This is also what is recommended in the Tech Manual) So I will finish it tonight. So far the only thing that seems to be missing in my kit was the instructions (which I voiced in another post, and I just downloaded them from the site) so I am very pleased with it. Good luck with your install!!!!

[eyustfu]

yep, oilpan gave me the most problem too, all you have to do is un-bolt the motor mounts, take off the sway bar, and the rear mount, then jack it up from the bellhousing and it should give you enough clearance to take out the oilpan.

[jdzumwalt]

Question, on the injector install. Do you need to replace the little rubber pieces that the injectors sit in? If so my kit missing those too. It seams that the new injector are a bit too big for the factory injector holders.


Gregg

[Ghst 01]

Originally Posted by jdzumwalt

Question, on the injector install. Do you need to replace the little rubber pieces that the injectors sit in? If so my kit missing those too. It seams that the new injector are a bit too big for the factory injector holders.


Gregg

the injectors should come with little rubber pieces that you fit in first then you put on the bigger ones that are already on the intake that go between the stock injectors and manifold. be carefull with those i droped one when i was taking off my old fuel rail and injectors and never found it... had to order one from nissan $4.00 per rubber ring

[jdzumwalt]

Ok the little o ring thats on the injector you use. That slides into the fuel rail. Then The bottom of the injector (the part that sprays) load's into the stock rubber pieces. Correct.


Gregg

[Ghst 01]

Nope!they both go on the end.
like this...... i borrowed this pic from "Red" on NICO

[jdzumwalt]

Is the bottom rubber peice the stock unit. If not I dont have either of those. I know i dont have the top smaller ring. All I got where the injectors.

[Ghst 01]

yes the bigger one is the stock unit... it should have been sitting between the stock injectors and the manifold.... if they are not to worn out you can re-use them, if not your gonna have to order some from nissan since they are a dealer only product and they cost $4.67 a piece.

[jdzumwalt]

Well oil pan is in it went pretty easy Thanks to Red. Jacking up the motor from the bell housing proved to be the best option. I didn't have much of a problem putting the oil pan back on just a little trouble with the oil pickup.(which must be removed in order to get the oil pan off) My roomate started the bolt while I held the pickup. Work great although I tighend it down with a wretch so I dont know how much torque it got. Although I snuged it up pretty hard.

Tommorow I will mount the turbo, finish the down pipe and complete the oil line.

So far I have

4 hours the first night 06-08-04
2 last night 06-09-04
3 tonight 06-10-04

gregg

[S14DRFTER]

JDZUMWALT-The oil pan seems to be one of the problem areas they don't mention, I have about 3 hrs on trying to get mine off. Did you have the cars front wheels on the ground, jacked up, or on a lift? I noticed everything lines up better when the front end is not jacked up. I will try removing the oil pickup like you said, and give it another go. Everything else is off and I am going to start the manifold and turbo install this morning.

Here is another great Greddy set of instructions: they tell you to disconnect the injector harness then later tell you to cut it. Where the $@%# are you supposed to cut it at!!?? and do you just cut every wire that is on the harness? If anyone has any suggestions on this or even better a picture please let me know. JDZUMWALT- did you cut yours yet?

If anyone is interested in any of the stock items that I am removing for the turbo install let me know. Thanks.

[Grandpa]

Easiest method I''ve found for the oil pan:

Put the front up on stands
Jack the floor jack up until it's resting on the bellhousing
Undo the tension rod bolts, sway bar bolts on A-arms
Disconnect PS cooling lines from crossmember
Undo 2 motor mount bolts
Drop the crossmember
Have at the oil pan in luxury and style

Doing it this way, you don't have to pull the pickup tube to drop the pan.

When you're doing this, use at least 1 can of brake cleaner on that oil pan after you've cut/welded on it. Clean out the screen on the pickup. Run at least 2 quarts of oil through the engine after it's back together - dino oil is okay.

Metal flakes = oil pump failure.

I also took the time to notch the oil pickup while it was accessable. Essentially you cut a small V with your dremel in the pickup, so if the pan is ever hit, oil starvation/engine failure doesn't occur. Guys with S13 redtops do this all the time because their pans are notoriously weak. I believe Nissan started notching them in the S13 blacktops (definitely S14 blacktops).

-john

[Ghst 01]

Originally Posted by S14DRFTER

Here is another great Greddy set of instructions: they tell you to disconnect the injector harness then later tell you to cut it. Where the $@%# are you supposed to cut it at!!?? and do you just cut every wire that is on the harness? If anyone has any suggestions on this or even better a picture please let me know. JDZUMWALT- did you cut yours yet?

here you go

[S14DRFTER]

GHST 01 and GRANDPA thanks for the responses. I did get all the wiring for the fuel rail done today along with the return line from the oil pressure switch. and everything else up to actually mounting the turbo (my exhaust manifold is now on also)

GRANDPA- I did exactly as you described today to try and get the oil pan off, and still didn't have any luck. I even disconnected the lower steering linkage and nada. I am at the point to where there is almost nothing left to do except get that darn thing off. I can't believe how hard it is to get that thing off. It seems like the rear of the motor hits the firewall before giving me enough clearance. I am about ready to drop the whole cross memeber in order to get it out. Just didn't want to resort to that yet. I will keep you posted when it finally comes off.

Besides the fact that the instructions blow, my kit did come complete and everything fits pretty good (give or take a little adjusting to get things that are in tight places) I found that having a set of stubby wrenches helped in a lot of places, and spending $5 for a Oil Switch socket was worth it. even bought an oxygen sensor socket for $10 (both at Autozone).

[Grandpa]

What do you mean the rear of the motor hits the firewall before you can get it off? You mean if you're jacking it up, it's hitting the upper portion of the tranny tunnel?

If you drop the cross member, so it's pretty much just dangling by the lower control arms, it should be cake to get the oilpan off.

If you can, post pics of what you're having issues with, and we'll try to figure it out.

-john

[S14DRFTER]

Grandpa- Finally got the oil pan off. Now I can finish the install!!! Thanks for the help. All I need now is to wire the emange and put the pan back on after I get it welded. Then bolt everything back up.

[Grandpa]

Sweet! For the emanage, I mounted it here:



You need to extend the harness 18"-24", but I really like the location. You need to a bit of modifying to the center console, but it's really not bad.

The pins for the connectors that GReddy include are really nice if you use a pin crimper. I picked one up from Pep Boys for under $20, and it makes install a breeze.

-john

[jdzumwalt]

Ok turbo is coming together nicely. I'm trying to figure out the vacum line routing right now. greddy directions are horible and don't give any details or picture's on the routing.

The line that runs from the throttle body does anybody know where this goes? I think it goes on the intake side of the compressor.

The bung on the hot pipe does this get routed directly to the acuator? It would make sense to me since thats how it is on my wrx. They say you need a three way spliter for the vaccum to the acuator from the fuel presure regulator if so then what the hell is the bung on the hot pipe for?



Well any help will do. By the way mine a 95' I'm still trying to figure out where to put the air temp sensor.

[Grandpa]

Throttlebody nipple and fpr vacuum line both see the same vacuum, the manifold vacuum. This is used for the bov, the fpr, the boost gauge, the ebc, etc. The nipple on the hot pipe goes to the lower port on an external WG or on the actuator (although I'm not familiar with internal gates, so I couldn't tell you which nipple if there's more than one).

Hope that helps.

-john

edit: BTW, the air temp sensor is worthless, used only for diagnostic chit. It's not like an air temp sensor in a standalone, i.e. it's actually used for something. Just let that bish dangle into the fenderwell if you don't want to throw a code. It's no big deal.

[jdzumwalt]

Oh by the way I did not cut my harness yet. I'm still missing hardware. I want to wait till all the hardware is here.

Gregg

[jdzumwalt]

Hey can anybody get me a picture of the routing if the leftover vaccum line that comes off the throttle body I still dont know where that goes?

Gregg