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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#1 |
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Techno Toy Tuning Interior Race Panels
Thoughts or interest? Make a stripped interior car look alot better for sure right now they only have couple rear panels. Prices are good c pillar bar is solid no joints would probably feel that one not like those cheap ebay ones people get.
Thinking about getting some if they start selling s14 ones myself. Rear interior side panels 100$ per set Rear fire wall 80$ Rear parcel 80$ Coupe C-pillar bar 90$ ![]() ![]() ![]()
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TUNAS. Jalostotitlan Jalisco |
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#4 |
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i think they look like shiiiet
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#8 |
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Made from .050 aluminum. Looking into s14 right now to do the rear firewall panel and the parcel shelf first
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TUNAS. Jalostotitlan Jalisco |
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#10 |
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the side panels seem to fit too far forward towards the top/front. looks a little funny to me. also, are those self tapping screws? id assume that a production model would utilize existing bolt holes?
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#11 |
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nope all stainless self taping with stainless cup washers an the side panels run right along the edge on the top first batch/ prototypes seeing if there is a market for them. Ae86 510s and other older cars t3 sell alot of them
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TUNAS. Jalostotitlan Jalisco |
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#12 |
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i hit them up about a month ago about s14 door panels after i saw their fc panels on my friend's fc. looked really clean in person.
they were super friendly and emailed right away that they'd work on it. i'll follow up with them and see whats happenin.
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#13 |
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The point in removing panels is to go lighter ... i can't see these aluminium panels lighter than the stock ones . and seriously. That might rattle too, i can't see any ribs (but then maybe not)
anyway, you can get painted .050"40x60" aluminium sheet for approx 50$ off ebay, without searching too much. I don't see them worth 100$+ of screws and labor. To each their own i guess... |
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#14 | |
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Quote:
i feel like this frenchie is one of the few people with a brain on this forum other than "OEM is no longer available" and this being a last alternative, i dont see the purpose there is ABSOLUTELY no way that these are lighter than stock and, the only way i can see these having any value is if someone bead-rolls them to make them more rigid and pleasing to look at. oh well |
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#15 |
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well i don't know how many people have a laser cutter, water jet, or bender at home let alone solid works or cad and can operate those programs and then not only that have the funds to make a couple of mistake untill you get a fitted product. But when mounted they do not rattle and they some of the panels may be lighter the stock and some are not but the look of a lil more finish gutted interior is better then a bunch of gabbing holes and exposed wires. i under stand in the pics above the harness is not tuch but this was just a test fit.
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TUNAS. Jalostotitlan Jalisco |
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#16 |
Nissanaholic!
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I agree with croustibat. Besides the rear firewall i dont see a point to use these. Stockers can't be any heavier if not lighter than these, look better, cheaper and are easy to find. The only excuse i can think of is for cool points with the hard parking kids at the meet.
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#17 |
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Pro Tip: The opening in front of the rear wheel well by the back seat can be used to hold a spare jug of oil or coolant. hahaha
The rear firewall panel cover looks like it could have some promise, needs a bit of refining first. The sides could be trimmed down a tad (smoother radius's on the corners), but would probably look better overall if the interior was painted instead of the stock paint/glue/ and fuzz.
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#21 |
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well i would have to say the top part of the back seat alone is heaver then all the panels put together, each side panel weighs the same as the stock ones. Sure some bead roll and cross hatching would look cool and fancy but then they wouldn't be afford able.
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TUNAS. Jalostotitlan Jalisco |
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#22 |
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give me a break, affordable to who?
bead rolling a panel isnt for looks, it adds strength the last thing i would ever want is some stupid flat panel rattling around if you're going to do it, do it right. |
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#23 |
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These do not rattle there is plenty of hardware include to hold them down and really who 240 doesn't have some sort of rattle? LOL T3 has has tons of sale to the toyota a datsun crowed maybe the s13 and s14 are too new for this. The fire wall and parcel shelf has to be two pieces also to get it in the car and mount would be cool one piece but its to large of a panel together
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TUNAS. Jalostotitlan Jalisco |
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#24 |
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Just a head's up, a few months ago I went to Auto Club Speedway with my buddy to drag race his car for shits and giggles, when I was going through tech inspection they mentioned that since my battery is relocated to the trunk, I need some sort of firewall. I'm not really that into drag racing, I actually think its kinda boring and would rather road race my car which I plan to. Now as far as I know a rear firewall isn't needed for a similar set up for roadracing, but the "rear firewall" could work if it is infact strong enough to be considered one. I think it would look better it it integrated somehow with the rear parcel shelf/deck (portion where rear speakers go).
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#27 |
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I think a battery box would look better, be lighter and pass inspection. I have never heard about a firewall needed for a battery in the back (or behind the passenger seat either, but again, correctly attached battery box is needed - and it needs to be vented)
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#30 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
"8:1 BATTERIES All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear firewall of .024-inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including package tray) required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch steel, .032-inch aluminum, or NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure battery and must be vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s) must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts. OEM located batteries without complete OEM hold-down hardware must be secured to OEM battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inch-diameter bolt hold-down method described in previous sentence. (āJā hooks prohibited or must have open end welded shut.) Metal battery hold-down straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined maximum weight (unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements), is permitted. Maximums may vary according to Class Requirements." Also, Slow92, I forgot that you need a killswitch mounted according to their rules, PM me if you need info for that. I understand that it has to be two pieces, but if you could eliminate the gap between the two pieces (the way I see the pic I see a gap) and had them interlock, sandwich, or somehow connect together, it would be more cleaner. Also, the above quote includes what NHRA dictates the specifications the firewall should be, if the firewall was made to comply with that, then that's just another selling point to buy it. |
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