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Old 10-22-2005, 08:00 PM   #1
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process of molding a widebody?

i decided on molding my widebody on for a cleaner look now the widebody is fiberglass so im sure i should use fiberglass-bondo instead of regular bondo for this my question is what type sand paper and what prep work is needed to do this i know how to do bondo and stuff im pretty good at that but i use a palm sander for bodo i dont think i should use that for fiberglass cause of different materials so i think i should use a sanding block correct me if im wrong
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Old 10-22-2005, 09:34 PM   #2
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fiberglassing is very easy.. its gonna be messy.. I guess Bondo-glass would be easy to just fill in where the fenders meet the metal..

Just use your judgement on sand paper and go freestyle on it... It will be a big learning experience thats for sure.. just take your time. I never did it myself, but Ihave a really good idea how to do it from seeing it done.

Just remember, there is a possibility it may crack so dont get too butt hurt about it.
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Old 10-22-2005, 10:24 PM   #3
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Old 10-22-2005, 10:48 PM   #4
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^

WTF is your problem with all this "show car" shit? You're a fucking tool.
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Old 10-22-2005, 11:18 PM   #5
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when i think about it, it seems more practical to run fiberglass widebody since it would be easier to replace that welded on sheetmetal if the need arose right? since bringing up rivets would make you an even bigger dumbass because he already said he was gonna mold it so stop yourself now. NOW DAMMIT!
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Old 10-22-2005, 11:28 PM   #6
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well i have all the time i need its a project i have 2 cars and one is being biult slowly the rhd goes in this week i will make a write up with pics if anyone is interested and yes im using rivits to hold in on the molding over them they have groves from the company so moling would be flush over the rivits
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Old 10-22-2005, 11:30 PM   #7
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look into getting fin rope (the fiberglass rope used to hold fins on surfboards) for the seam
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Old 10-22-2005, 11:34 PM   #8
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flares + fiberglass > molded widebody fenders

check out bomex180's car... fuggin hawt.
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Old 10-22-2005, 11:37 PM   #9
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i counted on you using rivets to hold the fenders on initially i just wanted to end any possible arguement of just riveting the fenders on and calling it a day before it even came up but yeah i forgot about bomex's car it is a prime example maybe pm him and see if he can give u some insight unless he's willing to post??
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Old 10-23-2005, 02:11 AM   #10
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Rivet the fenders on, then take some short strand fiberglass and putty it on the seams. Sand the fiberglass down, remember that the short strand fiberglass won’t go completely smooth that is what bondo is for. After smoothing out the fiberglass the best you can lay bondo over it so that it looks seamless with the body. Sand the bondo down with some 220 to get the bumps down, then some 400 then 600 and your ready for paint. Short strand fiberglass is great for something like this, it is much harder than just bondo and sands easily, but like I said it won’t go completely smooth it will have some pits in it. But bondo covers that perfectly.
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Old 10-23-2005, 05:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Globalsilence
Rivet the fenders on, then take some short strand fiberglass and putty it on the seams. Sand the fiberglass down, remember that the short strand fiberglass won’t go completely smooth that is what bondo is for. After smoothing out the fiberglass the best you can lay bondo over it so that it looks seamless with the body. Sand the bondo down with some 220 to get the bumps down, then some 400 then 600 and your ready for paint. Short strand fiberglass is great for something like this, it is much harder than just bondo and sands easily, but like I said it won’t go completely smooth it will have some pits in it. But bondo covers that perfectly.

very imformitave thank you very much thats the info i needed
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Old 10-25-2005, 12:51 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philly blunt
i decided on molding my widebody on for a cleaner look now the widebody is fiberglass so im sure i should use fiberglass-bondo instead of regular bondo for this my question is what type sand paper and what prep work is needed to do this i know how to do bondo and stuff im pretty good at that but i use a palm sander for bodo i dont think i should use that for fiberglass cause of different materials so i think i should use a sanding block correct me if im wrong
your an idiot... so stop posting dumb questions and go work in a bodyshop.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Globalsilence
Rivet the fenders on, then take some short strand fiberglass and putty it on the seams. Sand the fiberglass down, remember that the short strand fiberglass won’t go completely smooth that is what bondo is for. After smoothing out the fiberglass the best you can lay bondo over it so that it looks seamless with the body. Sand the bondo down with some 220 to get the bumps down, then some 400 then 600 and your ready for paint. Short strand fiberglass is great for something like this, it is much harder than just bondo and sands easily, but like I said it won’t go completely smooth it will have some pits in it. But bondo covers that perfectly.
i hope u have some icar certifications, to be givin out info like that, u know the last thing the community needs is a guy driving around with half assed slapped on bondo painted with cheap ass autozone rattlecan primer. painting on top of shitty body work and bondo or what ever else... the paint is gonna suck up and ur definetly gonna have waves and the edges will show thru...
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Old 10-25-2005, 04:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infinitexsound
your an idiot... so stop posting dumb questions and go work in a bodyshop.




i hope u have some icar certifications, to be givin out info like that, u know the last thing the community needs is a guy driving around with half assed slapped on bondo painted with cheap ass autozone rattlecan primer. painting on top of shitty body work and bondo or what ever else... the paint is gonna suck up and ur definetly gonna have waves and the edges will show thru...
Yeah because everyone on here needs to be certified to give out information. Anyways if you do a good job with the bondo your edges won’t show through, all you have to do is sand it with the appropriate paper. That’s why I suggested 220, 400, and 600 eliminating the edges. Also when a body shop uses bondo they seal the car with either sealer or primer. Primer can be used both ways depending on how it's mixed. So for a small section like an over fender would be, rattle can primer would be fine as long as the surface under is prepped (which it will be if you bondo and sand correctly).
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Old 10-26-2005, 11:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infinitexsound
your an idiot... so stop posting dumb questions and go work in a bodyshop.




i hope u have some icar certifications, to be givin out info like that, u know the last thing the community needs is a guy driving around with half assed slapped on bondo painted with cheap ass autozone rattlecan primer. painting on top of shitty body work and bondo or what ever else... the paint is gonna suck up and ur definetly gonna have waves and the edges will show thru...
^^^ Whats up with this guy? My suggestion to you is to stop telling people how stupid they are start telling us how it should be done (if you know). Maybe some people want to try it themself? Lets keep this board informative, not a place where you get criticized for asking/answering questions.


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Old 10-26-2005, 11:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottie
Lets keep this board informative, not a place where you get criticized for asking/answering questions.


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man, thats some good stuff. you should go on tour.
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Old 10-26-2005, 11:46 AM   #16
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Before you start sanding at any level... do this first each time.

Get a plastic container (throwaway) and mix Acitone and Red Dye (use rubber gloves). Drop in a rag or sponge... and rub the bondo/ fiberglass after drying! This will give you a visual surface to sand and see what you missed. Remove all Red Dye and Repeat after each level of sanding. Be fluid with you movements. You will see the scathes from each level of sanding as you go (200 removes 100/ 300 removes 200/ etc...)

Good luck...
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Old 10-26-2005, 12:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadScientist
Before you start sanding at any level... do this first each time.

Get a plastic container (throwaway) and mix Acitone and Red Dye (use rubber gloves). Drop in a rag or sponge... and rub the bondo/ fiberglass after drying! This will give you a visual surface to sand and see what you missed. Remove all Red Dye and Repeat after each level of sanding. Be fluid with you movements. You will see the scathes from each level of sanding as you go (200 removes 100/ 300 removes 200/ etc...)

Good luck...
Peace
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Just spray guide coat!
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Old 10-26-2005, 02:09 PM   #18
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Here are some pics of my widebody S13

Click Here
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Old 10-26-2005, 02:50 PM   #19
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Just spray guide coat!
this is how it should look w/ the guide coat

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Old 10-25-2005, 01:21 AM   #20
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I know there was a thread by some guy who did it himself.. I'll look around for it, i'm not sure what forums they're on.
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Old 10-25-2005, 09:38 AM   #21
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we used SMC filler on my widebody s13.5
if u want to see pix of the process...
www.cardomain.com/id/sizzo2
browse around and you'll find what you need
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Old 10-26-2005, 08:36 AM   #22
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jeez people:

fiberglass
40
80
180
bondo to smooth it out
80
180
320

after you feather it all in primer, do 320 again, and seal, then paint.
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Old 10-26-2005, 09:57 PM   #23
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yeah i know, you said they used too much, you're wrong.
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Old 10-26-2005, 10:15 PM   #24
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10. Guide Coating Guide coating is done to help highlight areas that require additional sanding during step #11 . Apply a thin dusting of guide coat over the entire primed area. Allow to dry for a minimum of 10 minutes.
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/diy/repairsteps/

Ok. "thin dusting".

Guide coat is used to find the LOW spots, so there is no need to use heavy amounts of it.

When you buy a can of guide coat, it doesn't spray like a spray can, it just lightly mists. When you apply it in a gun, you do very light passes, across the area which work is needed, and so on. You can use a lot of it, but it is NOT NECESSARY.
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Old 10-26-2005, 10:56 PM   #25
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okay bu
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritz S14
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/diy/repairsteps/

Ok. "thin dusting".

Guide coat is used to find the LOW spots, so there is no need to use heavy amounts of it.

When you buy a can of guide coat, it doesn't spray like a spray can, it just lightly mists. When you apply it in a gun, you do very light passes, across the area which work is needed, and so on. You can use a lot of it, but it is NOT NECESSARY.
actually V is right and so are the others....but the acetone stuff is alot of work and more costly then just getting a can of guide coat..but drew is still cool so hes right no matter what lol. but with the SEM guide coat u dont need alot.. cause it would be a waste of materials.. and findin low spots are easy if u can see from experience in blockin and sanding.... i hate the powder form of guide coat it sucks and never really works right. My opinion..

and to scottie.. if u want to learn something obviously youd want to research take some courses or work at a shop that specify's in this trade.. dont think getting responses and advice on internet forums for the learning basis is gonna cut it, youd might want to get it some hands on experience...with someone in the physical form that knows what theyre doing to guide u..durr...
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Old 11-02-2005, 10:50 AM   #26
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sorry.. newb question

whats guide coat and whats it purpose?
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Old 01-03-2007, 06:11 AM   #27
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^answers are in the thread
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Old 01-03-2007, 12:01 PM   #28
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rofl what a fucking idiot
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