ka24e na help

[Zemus]

How would I go about making a street friendly ka24e NA. I have made the choice to mod a ka24e, and I really want NA. I know im going to get a grip of crap for "Not turboing a car that should be turbo" and "Useing the crappiset engine in the world" which i would agree with neather. I am looking to more than likely put on some nice ITB or side draft 44mm carbs. Im looking to make about 200HP to the rear wheels. What roughts should i got to make that much power. Things im thinking about doing.

1# 11.5:1 comp pistons overbored to a 2.5l

2# 44mm sidedraft carbs

3# Higher Reving Cam, but not a annoying rough idle

4# Tit valves and aftermarket springs

5# Streetported head

6# HQ 4-2-1 Headers (I dont know which are good, ill do a search)

Some questions I have:

How would i go about hooking up carbs to my car, and how would my ecu feel about that, and how would i get that all working. If you cant explain, please send me to a site that explains about converting a EFI car to Carb and what to do.

And yes everyone I did a search, but nothing help me. Thanks

Matt

[Bill Roberts]

Yes sir ree...you can lay down over 200HP to the rear wheels with that configuration. They've been doing it on trucks for years and years. You also can get there without the need of the carb route but you will need to port match your intake with your head and do some intake and combustion chamber porting (and bowls), shaping and polishing.

Since all a motor is...is a pump, if you have more coming in, more displacement, more rev. you will make power and lots of it. My intake was enlarged quite a bit as were the intake and exhaust ports.

Personally, carbs can get you in the 250HP range but I would stick to Fuel Injection. I personally don't care for carbs..although they do make more overall power.

My Current setup is bored and stroked to 2.55 Ltrs. and I get no overheating.

The best search is to do one for nissan trucks..hardbody, KA24E mods. What applies to mud bogging equally applies to horsepower gains for the street.

With your above sequence of changes, you will enjoy the potential of the KAE.

With carbs, the ECU can be bypassed for fuel management...although..I get lost here as well. Truck sites will have some info.

Most of the work that was done to my car was before I bought it but I have some receipts. More was done later.

KAE is a very capable motor..I would not let anyone say that it is a POS, Mine runs like a scalded ape. Built right..even stroked, they can rev to 8K RPM...but mine litterally is tapering off fast past the mid 6K range (67, 6800.).and 7300 is as high as I will shift. Going from 7300 to 8000 is a waste of time...right now...just over the top at that point.


With compression that high...you would need to idle at about 1300...and run the best fuel you can get of course.

Their are 300HP N/A KAE's out there.

good luck...it can work.

[Zemus]

Yea thats the reason i love the KA, alright, can you hook me up with a list of parts I can get to run 200RWHP without carbs. You can PM it to me or post it. Posting preferd

Anyone else have anything that can help me?

Thanks so much for your info so far

[Bill Roberts]

Certainly...all of them should be available...but I will after I get back to the house from work. That way I can look through the receips and try to find some web-links at the same time.

Sometime tonight in a few hours..

Also..Seek someone that can port and polish a head au perfection. Intake matching, port and polish..this is where you get 50 to 80 horespower is the head. Bowl CC'ing, the head is the key to pushing the crap out of the bottomend..and I would really look into sending it to JAN if you can spare the 200 dollars shipping and the 6 week turnaround if you cannot locate anyone within reason. the camshaft will need to be changed. Header is a given..although if you look at the stock exhaust manifold..and have it ported..it breaths good as it is a 4 to 2. I like a 4/2/1 better than a 4/1. Even stock turns out to be a rough cut 4/2/1, Exhaust flange matching and pipe fit..important. As for intake..their is a tremendous amount of heat under the hood, I don't care for the left side cone under the hood. What I did was to continue to use the box and stock pipes past the maf. The MAF was sent off and ported...I really don't know what was changed on the resistance of the sensing element inside the mafs..but their is some shaping inside. I have a K&N filter and the bottom end of the airbox is opened up to two ram air ducts under the bumper at the radiator feed intakes. I drilled a hole in the pipe past the mafs and measured to air temperature VS a K&N cone filter under hood while driving down the road, using a radio shack thermometer with outdside extention ran to this hole (which I sealed later) and the difference was 83 degrees VS 104 to 113 degrees. I like my intake. Cold air is the key...and the stock pipe has shapes to aid air flow so I am sticking with it. Looks stock too! Intake pentium, bored and shaped.

Head P&P and Matching, Cam, Intake, Bore, stroke, exhaust, larger fuel pump, larger injectors, larger gas lines, engine shockabsorber, tranny shock absorber, cut flywheel, modded ECU, some frame stiffning, runs great!

It won't do a solid 14 second..but it will do high 14's consistantly.
Id say you can be quite pleased with it..and for rally or drifting or plain old street, I can play with some big dogs and not look like an azz.

One MUST DO MOD that should not be overlooked...Q45 brakes. You gotta have them. You just can't get the car stopped like you can get it to go...the stock brakes will burn to a crisp and are NO GOOD with power of 200 or more. You simply run out of road. You can't get it down fast enough unless you do some serious downshifting and P braking with the stock brakes..and then you end up in a cloud of billowing smoke coming off the pads.

Brakes are essential.

[Zemus]

Damn, ill need to see your other right ups, their quite interesting. Keep it comming :-D. Once you get home of course

Also i have already set up to get NA 300sx brakes so yea, that will be good

[old_s13]

The biggest problem with the SOHC KA is that it is just not efficient, it consumes gas really quickly. I really liked my SOHC motor, and I was always looking to go the high compression route, and simplify the engine bay with dual carb setup.. that would have looked pretty trick.

I've driven some built SOHC KA's before, they can be pretty quick. When I had my SOHC setup, I made sure to have it stripped down as much as possible. It was MUCH quicker and much more responsive than your typical SOHC, thats for sure.. but then again, its no SR. It had no problem keeping up with VTEC Integra's and Celica GT-S's; put the powerbands aside, and it was around the same speeds as both of those high revving cars. I never revved past 6700, no power after that. I would love to see Bill's setup, I am sure that thing is pretty impressive for a SOHC KA!

The biggest problem in building a KA is that you have to PAY to have it built, usually runs around $3000 to have it done right.. thats a lot of money, considering you can get an SR for a fraction of the price. The SR is more gas efficient and overall, a really nice motor.

Either route works, but most people prefer going SR since its SO easy to gain more HP just by doing things like cranking up boost. Something to consider, since the power you'll be making with your KA is the power you'll be sticking with.

- Mike

[Bill Roberts]

Old, what you say is correct.

I think what really is the cool deal is to be running around 70 on the interstate, get a vibe because everyone else is doing around 75 to 85 and you get something kinda special behind you like a 330i that instead of just crusing around you...gets within 10 inches of your bumper and stays there.....time to take action...so you do a slow build d shift to 3rd...and sit there and he wants to blow by you he goes for it..you see him hit it......but ...he cant blow by you.....you hit it hard...you pull away and he truly is on the pipe. You Rocket to about a 110 in just a few seconds seeing his headlights falling back (and soot coming from his rear looking into the mirror)

You go from lane two to lane four...straiten up with the traffic and cruise into a nice exit pattern. He follows you. You pull into the gas station and he basically cannot believe that it is a black top 2400 `12V with no turbo under the hood.

It messes with them to know a KAE owned them.

The pull is pretty incredable..as long as when I come off my top of shift, fat into the power band...the SR would see some great torque pull away at times.

OF course a monster engine SR20DET...another level.

The KAE has its moments.

Dyno at 1AM at the killer Mazda shop...heads up!!!!!

I would be pleased with 190 but I think their precison dyno is correct..and looking for the 240hP. We shall see..IF it is below 200...well my fuel air needs work..the rest is there..

Azz dyno and last test was 222.

Because of Zilvia and us folks, Dyno time has been called in and ready..

I just hope the car decides to come on line like it has and can...Will lose sleep.

(What if it hits 250hp? it won't go that.)

[deviousKA]

ok just to clear a few things up

1. over boring to 2.5l has very little advantage

2. ITB and standalone are the way to go for max hp (very expensive)

3. Bill does not have over 200hp with his setup (no offense, just because not a lot of people care to tune the ka24e, doesnt mean you should get away with fibbing )

4. unless you need to tune the ka24e for a certain class of racing or you can do it for uber cheap (i rebuild nissan/toyota engines for a living what can i say ) should you spend to much money/effort.

5. biggest gain will be porting properly, not just basic porting, better left to professional. (need to get that 140cfm exhaust flow taken care of)

6. talk to the guys at realnissan

edit, btw: 11.5:1??? 104+ octane and 10mpg with built n/a ka, better left to full race (or have fun paying for gas with only 200hp)

[old_s13]

Here is why building a KA isnt the most cost-effective idea:
http://www.racetep.com/240sxna.html

Thats just one example of cost vs performance. Yes, its unique.. and it will be a strong setup that is also very rare. BUT, dollar for dollar, the SR is a very great upgrade. Yes, the SR has more components since its turbo.. but, spend that money toward buying a nice low-mileage motor/clip and you should be okay. If you want to be extra safe, spend more money on performance parts like clutch, light flywheel, and all the maintanance stuff like gaskets and water pump, etc.. you really wont be dis-appointed.

The SR is a nice alternative. I'm a fan of OEM-reliability (and specs), I dont want to depend on a machine shop for things. That is why custom motors havent been my cup of tea just yet. My car is my daily driver and I just dont have the time for crazy custom-ness.

PS: If you go with carb KA, you wont have to worry about any engine management.. just ignition, that will be your biggest concern. The engine builder will help you pick the right size jets and what not, that way you know how to tune your car. Most newer carbs dont need constant adjustment, dont let people fool you with "carbs are hard and high maintanace" -- it really depends on the type of carb you buy, each one has its pros and cons. The best part about carbs is the lack of wires in the engine bay.. pretty damn badassed if you ask me.

Like I said, I researched this for years.. I've always wanted a carb SOHC KA.. too bad I never was able to tackle that.

[deviousKA]

ITB is better system than carbs and can mount up to mikuni style intake manifolds. carbs is old school, definately cool in older datsuns and nissans. really the factory efi can take you a long way and i would stick with that untill engine requires more fuel and air

[Zemus]

HUmm ok ok, i see your guys point, and for some reason i have been constantly temped with turbo, their is a kit on ebay (95% full kit, but its for a ka24e truck which i dont think is that big of a deal) for 1500 and another on a diff forum for 1k also all it needs is the piping. And their both for the E, what is your outlook on that, i mean for 1500 for a FULL turbo setup including full FMIC and injectors and all that good stuff, i was impressed. What if i rebuilt my ka, seeing as I have one at my house in peices, should I even touch the bottom end or just work on porting and all that good stuff then bolt on a turbo?

[Bill Roberts]

Oni, I PM'ed you..

OK, Oilpump:
http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...oilpumps2.html


An example of the KAE built up.

http://www.race-cars.com/engsales/ot...59606728ss.htm

Pistons

http://home.att.net/~MabuhayCarlos/Piston.html

Pulleys

http://home.att.net/~MabuhayCarlos/Pulley.html

Brad Ross site.

http://users.1st.net/de811/main.html

Some more parts for the engine

http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...ginekits2.html

Another package

http://www.xatracing.com/nissanperformancepkg.html

Cam and Rockers

http://www.spencerlowracing.com/products/camshafts.htm

JUN products..

http://www.ecpracing.net/pages/codes/products/jun.html

John Ropers Notes (works with the 510/KA

http://www.fiveoneoh.net/tech/roper_ka.htm

Good truck site..lot of info..

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/haw...dy/engine.html

Modded KAE turbo

http://www.turbo240sx.ca/PERFORMANCE.html

Look this site over, great pics!

None of the dyno runs used NO2
Dyno run

http://www.turbo240sx.ca/dynorun1.jpg

Another

http://www.turbo240sx.ca/dyno%20run%20oct%2030%2002.jpg

Block with Flat top pistons..

http://www.turbo240sx.ca/block2.jpg

Recent dyno..

http://www.turbo240sx.ca/dyno2may803.jpg


Another

http://www.turbo240sx.ca/may15dyno3.jpg


Bone stock..

http://www.turbo240sx.ca/stock240sxdyno.jpg

Since the turbo adds about 60 horses, my 220/230 seems on par.