NEW Bolt on Part for KA24DE owners

[Iceman00]

BTw...try lighter wieght oil. Less friction...

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Iceman00

BTw...try lighter wieght oil. Less friction...

OMFG...

[Iceman00]

Originally Posted by S14DB

OMFG...

Please, tell me how his motor will blow up from going from a 10w30 to 5w30. You seem to be a smart guy, full of one-liners, contradictions, and idiocy.

SHOW me I'm wrong.

And Your rep System Means SHIT to me considering you're still in the green.

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by Iceman00

Please, tell me how his motor will blow up from going from a 10w30 to 5w30. You seem to be a smart guy, full of one-liners, contradictions, and idiocy.

Well for starters I run 10W-40 Castrol GTX if I oil myself, or 10w-40 quaker state at Jiffy Lube...
Different oils have different temperature ratings as well.
I wouldn't be caught dead using 5w30 oil in my high mileage KA24de, with my timing advanced to 32BTDC and iridium plugs, oil would burn and my rings would fry.....

Thicker oils hold up to higher temperatures, it's a simple fact.

Granted that a 5W is thinner oil, and is good for cold starts. But it only has a limited range when dealing with it's temperature. The higher the temperature outside of it's normal range of operation it will begin to become viscous and burn. It may use a multi grade which means that it can also function as much as 30w to it's temperature meaning 5w-30. Really most high mileage or mild mileage cars that are driven hard can use a thicker oil that would react better to higher temperatures. A 5W compared to a 10W doesn't really mean shit unless you really live in cold weather conditions that wouldn't allow thicker oil to move as well on a cold start. Engines are relatively broken in well after 20~60,000m anyway.

By Chemical Engineering

The oil's cold-weather weight is indicated by the letter "W," meaning "winter," as in 10W, which is gauged by the oil's viscosity at 0 °F. The warm-weather weight is based on the viscosity measured at 210 °F. Oils used to be sold mostly as single-grade products, and still are for some special uses, such as extreme weather conditions or for racing cars. But the viscosity range of single-grade oils is too limited for general use. That's where multigrade oils come in.

High-molecular-weight polymers (viscosity index improvers) such as poly(methyl methacrylate) and ethylene-propylene copolymer are added to a low-viscosity oil base stock to create multigrade oils that work through thick and thin. At cold temperatures, the rubberlike polymer molecules exist as balled-up coils and don't thicken the oil significantly, Bachelder says. But at warmer temperatures, they expand to more linear random coils to prevent oil from thinning out too much. Thus, common multigrade monikers-indicated by two grade numbers-are 5W-30 for colder climates (falling below 0 °F), 10W-30 for intermediate climates (down to 0 °F), and 20W-50 for warmer climates (down to 32 °F).

http://pubs.acs.org/cen/whatstuff/84/8411oil.html


Yahoo even has more common sense...
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repa...ques120_1.html

[irax]

so what will increase oil pressure typically?

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by irax

so what will increase oil pressure typically?

The weight of the oil will increase oil pressure.
As an example a 5w isn't as thick as a 10w and there fore can decrease oil pressure in a higher mileage engine.
I've always recommended use of castrol GTX 10w-40 for my friends that have over 100,000m KA24de's, never received a complaint and they haven't ever cared to change there brand or weight of oil.
My friend Anthony that works at Jiffy Lube can probably explain in detail much better than I can....
But he will never tell you about the 3000mile myth......LOL

[irax]

yeah some oils don't even break in untill 2k miles
When I had a dual oil filter and oil cooler setup I don't know how long i was able
to go with out needed an oil change (my oil cooler mount broke while driving)
But I did accumulate about 8.5k miles and the oil looked new still. Even on the ground the oil still looked clean.

[Iceman00]

Actually, My KA runs 5w-30 Year round (I live in Florida), and I have had 0 issues (besides oil leaks from using sythetic )

My friends K20 Powered SI I think uses 0w-20 or 5w-20, and that is recommended for year round use.

My point remains he could pick up a few MPG's my moving to a lighter wieght oil.

[Iceman00]

Also, to get us further off topic, Wouldn't a oil being sythetic or conventional also have to do with its protection properties, and tempature rating?

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by Iceman00

Also, to get us further off topic, Wouldn't a oil being sythetic or conventional also have to do with its protection properties, and tempature rating?

NO. The rating of oil is still the rating of oil, being conventional petro or synthetic.
The only true difference between conventional and synthetic is that synthetic is more refined, and can carry more properties to keep it from degrading faster than a conventional. Conventional being that it hasn't been recycled yet has more gumming compounds to it's chemical make up causing viscosity earlier, than a synthetic would.
Life span of conventional is about 6000m maximum, before next oil change.
Life span of synthetic oil can be between 15,000, and 20,000, and that would be determined by the brand that you use.....

Originally Posted by Iceman00

Actually, My KA runs 5w-30 Year round (I live in Florida), and I have had 0 issues (besides oil leaks from using sythetic )

Call me when your oil rings take a shit. KA oil rings aren't your typical rings and are thinner rings than in most streetable engines you see to date..... Synthetic properties are different when it comes to leakage and it's not from it's weight but rather the additives that are added to synthetic.

[S14DB]

Energy Conserving is an API certification for certain additive packages that increase fuel economy. Not cause the weight increases efficiency.

[BigVinnie]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Energy Conserving is an API certification for certain additive packages that increase fuel economy. Not cause the weight increases efficiency.

True this is why I still use a 10w rather than a 5w, I really don't see the benefit using it in my KA.

[breakindrifts]

Do we really NEED these measly 3 tq 1 hp gain, why even bother thinking about this shit like we drive cavaliers or some shit car where every single 2hp bolt-on part is significant.
Turbo your KA for 1k and be done.

[irax]

Originally Posted by breakindrifts

Do we really NEED these measly 3 tq 1 hp gain, why even bother thinking about this shit like we drive cavaliers or some shit car where every single 2hp bolt-on part is significant.
Turbo your KA for 1k and be done.

If max gain was 3hp then fuck it
but max gain is like 15hp which makes a difference
and it smooths out the curv