Maximum TIRE(Rubber) fitment thread

[mikerbike]

Just wondering, are you changing gearing to run that size on the rear? By chance, did you mean 335/30/18?

Sounds pretty fast either way.

[JFoxx]

Originally Posted by mikerbike

Just wondering, are you changing gearing to run that size on the rear? By chance, did you mean 335/30/18?

Sounds pretty fast either way.

yes it is 335/30/18... thats funny....

havent decided if im going to mess with the gearing yet, but like everything else on the car, its probably going to be messed with eventually........

maybe ill do a little build thread on this car, it was all built out of a 1 car garage by myself (except roll cage, and sleeving the block)

[BTplaya]

Random pic strip style.

[SicBastard]

RAMM,

How do you like the R888s? I've heard they can be a bear in the cold? Do they take a while to heat up on the street? Are you happy with the staggered set-up? I've always wanted to try them. How many street miles have you put on them?

[RAMM]

Originally Posted by JFoxx

aprox. ~550ish (new setup hasnt been tuned yet).....and it is used for auto cross...

Try and get a larger front tire on there, or reduce the size of the rear tire. Try and get the stagger to be within 30mm of the front tires. From my experiences S-Chassis cars don't really respond to well with a large difference in stagger on the track.

Originally Posted by SicBastard

RAMM,

How do you like the R888s? I've heard they can be a bear in the cold? Do they take a while to heat up on the street? Are you happy with the staggered set-up? I've always wanted to try them. How many street miles have you put on them?

Yes, they are R-Compound tires so on the street they do not perform that well. You definitely need to put some heat in them for them to actually work. I used the tires on the track primarily and would occasionally take them out on the street for a cruise. I ran 275's ALL AROUND in that picture.

I put close to 1000 street miles on the tires. Mainly just cruising around and breaking in the motor, the majority of the wear on the tires came from the 3 track days that I put on them.

[RAMM]

If your looking for a tire that heats up quick, check out the Toyo R1R. They need a little less time to heat up, and are a dedicated Street Tire.

Or if you want a badass street tire for the money...go on tirerack and order up some Kumho XS.

[ZilviaKid]

i can attest to the fact that r888's suck on the street. if it isnt a very warm day and you arnt going for a long drive you may want to be pretty careful or do some hard braking to get them hot.

[Sumslapper]

I daily on r888's and they are fine as long as your not driving like a jackass. There only sketchy on standing still water but any summer/track tire is going to be a little more challenging in the rain.

[smellslikecurry]

anyone have any experience with a048s on the street?

[KA240SX808]

^There Awesome
(Only exp. on the Front)

[Te37]

OKAY...so i see everyone running 275-315 tires but most are running either an unknow camber or -2 to -3 degrees. I would rather run a 255 with -.7 camber than 275 with -3 camber, am i wrong in saying that?

[GripTerror]

Originally Posted by Te37

OKAY...so i see everyone running 275-315 tires but most are running either an unknow camber or -2 to -3 degrees. I would rather run a 255 with -.7 camber than 275 with -3 camber, am i wrong in saying that?

You're probably wrong because you're thinking that's bad for you. Our cars and most other mcpherson strut cars like more negative camber (eg; bmws). It helps your turn in and grip in corners but it depends on various factors such as tyre type (not all react the same) and suspension setup.

[R@ddy]

Originally Posted by Te37

OKAY...so i see everyone running 275-315 tires but most are running either an unknow camber or -2 to -3 degrees. I would rather run a 255 with -.7 camber than 275 with -3 camber, am i wrong in saying that?

you're absolutely right. camber defeats the whole purpose of the bigger tire contact patch. for example a 255 drag radial with -.5 camber will have a greater and more usable contact patch than a 275 with -3 camber.

[Jay97240Sx]

Both of you made valid points, 2.5 - 3 is wack for contact patch and tire wear.

[Chops@MVP]

^ I'm actually running 275 drag radials with .5 camber

Regards,
Robert

[GripTerror]

toe = tire wear
camber =/= tire wear

[Def]

Take a corner and you'll need negative camber.

I run -3.4 deg up front with my roll center corrected which gives better camber gain and I still wear the outside of the fronts on track. I'm thinking going to closer to -4 deg.

[fckillerbee]

Originally Posted by Def

Take a corner and you'll need negative camber.

I run -3.4 deg up front with my roll center corrected which gives better camber gain and I still wear the outside of the fronts on track. I'm thinking going to closer to -4 deg.

you get a lot of body roll and suspension compression in cornering?

I would think you would want less camber with less roll so the tire achieves max grip all the time....rather than max grip at -4 degrees? Unless you are running specific heavy banked tracks?

Sorry man...i do the drifting, always interested in the grip dudes stuff.

[GripTerror]

^I ran even -4.5 at one point.... and my tires according to my alignment guy (who races) said are unbelivabley well properly worn (with barely any wear) and i drive hard...

Toe = the devil... but camber will not chew your tires away....

In the rear too much camber may cause acceleration problems... but.. for cornering.... more neg camber in the front rocks

[GripTerror]

drifting = you're doing it wrong

lol sorry had to throw that one out :P Just kidding.

Negative camber is pretty common while cornering... theres alot of forces.... we don't wana slide... we wana corner faster...

[fckillerbee]

Originally Posted by GripTerror

canada = you're doing it wrong

lol sorry had to throw that one out :P Just kidding.

Negative camber is pretty common while cornering... theres alot of forces.... we don't wana slide... we wana corner faster...

fixed ;D


I've just known dudes that ran 1.8 degrees up front...but never heard of -4 on a grip car that wasn't nascar.

[GripTerror]

Originally Posted by fckillerbee

fixed ;D


I've just known dudes that ran 1.8 degrees up front...but never heard of -4 on a grip car that wasn't nascar.

clearly you have something new to learn every day and most mcpherson strut race cars dont run under -3.

[fckillerbee]

Originally Posted by GripTerror

clearly you have something new to learn every day and most mcpherson strut race cars dont run under -3.

the nascar thing was a joke. i only know they run heavy negative camber on one side..how much...well I don't run nascar, nor do I see myself ever running nascar.

Thanks for the lesson obi wan.

[Te37]

I do -1.5r -1.6f for a daily...feels good on highway and I can do a corner at 50. -4 would be over kill...what do you do in the strait aways?

[mikerbike]

I had the opportunity to drive behind my car on (in my other car) on the way home from the track one day. Back then it had ~-0.5* on the rear (measured with a carpenter's square ,some simple math and a garage floor that is probably not flat) and it gained a notable amount of negative camber over bumps.

I know it has to do with ride height, as camber gain in increased as suspension compresses. There was about 1.5" from the top of the fender arch to my 17" wheel. And I had 10k springs on the rear.

I used it like that for 2 open track days before the turbo was installed, running 225 street crap tires. I didn't feel like it was low on rear grip, but instead it pushed like normal.

I don't drag race, but If I did (I would get a Mustang or Camaro ) I would try 0* and pretty tall ride height to minimize camber increase with suspension compression.

I run 0* on the rear now, and I've gained some traction while sliding, but it also feels like there's less normal grip back there for normal cornering.

Long, boring post. Don't read it.

[jaysgottaredtop]

my housemate got a new set of 17x10 Stern Reps and 295/35/17 Kumho XSs for his mk3:


for shits and giggles, i tried them on my s13:














specs:
s13-specific PJ Bonifacio (or very similarly styled) flares, you can buy these/similar ones here
f: 17x10 +20, 295/35/17, 6mm spacer
r: 17x10 +20, 295/35/17
-1˚ (ish) camber all around

rear clearance is fine. front is close to hitting everything when steering, even with my beat-out-to-all-hell wheel wells for steering clearance on my usual setup. if i raised it up some, i might be able to get away with it, especially if stay away from full lock. looks do-able for a track setup. drifting, not so much, it would eat shit up at full lock.

also, i checked steering clearance while sitting; i didn't actually drive it. i can't promise that 6mm spacer is enough to actually clear the tire and coilover. it was REALLY close. the tire may have been resting on it, i just couldn't see back there well enough to tell for sure.

i have an SR with 550cc/n62/gt2560rs/15psi, definitely no more than 300hp. i don't actually need a 295; a good compound 255 would be fine... but the insane amounts of meat is SO very tempting!

[Fred Allen Burge]

I like that a lot ^^, those wheel remind me of older Mustang Saleen or Cobra wheels.

[JFoxx]

335/30/18 rears -1.5 camber

ill post better pics once the brakes are done and i can take it outside the garage....

how do you post large pics from photo bucket?

[jaysgottaredtop]

Originally Posted by Fred Allen Burge

I like that a lot ^^, those wheel remind me of older Mustang Saleen or Cobra wheels.

yep, they're Stern Saleen replicas.

Silver SC Style Wheel 94-04 Mustang (17x10) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

^ that

[SicBastard]

Hoosier a6 tires are designed to run at 3-5 degrees of camber. Anything less and you're leaving speed on the table. The best finishing S-chassis car that I know of in the scca was running 4 degrees in the front.