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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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#3 |
Leaky Injector
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Had two sets built through Wheelflip, first set was good - work quality wise. Hard to get ahold of though and took longer than original timeframe quoted. Second set was not built to spec agreed upon, and again, hard to get ahold of unless called directly. My $.02
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#8 |
Zilvia Member
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Well if it's a male like mine then you should pick up the fancy rounded spline drive sockets that are designed to be able to remove any bolt such as the one on the left which is what I used to remove my triple square male bolts from my wheels. I used it with a small impact gun and it worked perfect. I tried to take them out from the backside with the 10mm nuts but in the pic you can see they have ridges to prevent them from backing out let alone me removing them. Almost stripped two of them. They left an imprint on my barrels so they were definitely not coming out from the nut side.
![]() Pic of box set to help you find them. ![]()
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Ayo that's crazy @originaldonjosh |
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#10 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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2 Questions:
1. My wheels came in and I got a little excited and went to autozone and got their spline drive socket set (for the 12 point bolts). The first wheel I tried to remove the bolts on, (35 hole faces) I got every one off until the last one which I stripped. What can I use to remove the stripped bolt? I'm gonna hit up the local hardware store or see if they have an extractor of some sort. Thing is, most of the extractors I see are meant for bigger bolts than a little 8mm. Just seeing if someone could link me to a good extractor. I know it's my fault for using the shittttty ass autozone socket set. I got excited. 2. This seems like a stupid question, but what are you guys who have actually taken apart wheels using for a 12 point socket? I'm not going to cheap out and get a nice one this time, any suggestions (seen a couple other people on this page asking the same question. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....roup_ID=674833 Was thinking about giving this Snap-On 8mm 12 point a shot, just cause it's snap-on. Would a deep 8mm be better? Thanks ![]() These have a long road ahead of them. |
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#11 |
Zilvia Member
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I got the sunex one from a matco tool truck i believe and works pretty well, basically the only time it's ever seen use. As for the stripped bolt, my friend stripped one of his on his vs-kf using a standrad 12pt socket and the safest way to get it out without damaging the chrome was sending it a reputable machine shop that drilled it out i believe.
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Ayo that's crazy @originaldonjosh |
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#12 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I take wheels apart and rebuild them quite often. I found that 5/16 fits tighter than 8mm. I use a mid-depth snap-on socket. It has worked perfect with no issues on Work wheels, Stern, Panasport, BBS, Linea etc.. The only wheels I hate rebuilding are Weds. They require a 12 point Torx bit.
This thing has built countless wheels for me. ![]() |
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#13 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Perfect info guys, thanks. Was just looking for other options than craftsman, etc. Really hoping to avoid going to a machine shop even though I know the local one won't charge much. I'll post back if I find something nice to remove the stripped bolt. |
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#14 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Though I don't really recommend it but it does work, I have taken a 12 point socket that is slightly smaller than 5/16 and hammered it onto the stripped bolt head. Just tap it on until it reaches the bottom of the head and slowly work it loose. There are kits you can buy to extract stripped bolts or just take it to a machine shop
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#16 |
Zilvia Junkie
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i have a set of weds cerebus II in 19's and i'm looking to replace all the wheel bolts because the nuts to them look old.
anyone have any idea where i can purchase them, and in what size? i see some results in wheel flip, but not exactly sure what thread pitch it should be at. are there any sites that sell colored wheel bolts? |
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#17 |
Zilvia Junkie
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i thinking about getting these bolts and nuts-
i want to run gold hardware, and it's decently priced http://store.blackforestindustries.c...bsrsboand.html |
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#18 |
Zilvia Junkie
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#19 |
Post Whore!
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At this point, is best to cut directly in the middle or best to cut the lip off? I am only asking because I found a place to pick up lips for a good price and want to rebarrel my vskf and minervas ![]() any tip on separating the lip would be awesome!
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#20 |
Zilvia Junkie
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^^^^^^I haven't done it personally but Ive heard of people not welding up their vskf's and them being fine. I mean Equips and VSXX's werent welded and you people dont have issues so Id say your good. Just make sure you put sealant between the lips, then torque it, then again do sealant. Ive never had a leak doing it that way.
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#21 |
Leaky Injector
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Wheel Flip recommends drilling and tapping the back side of the face to add two extra bolts per spoke (so 10 extra per wheel).
So the bolts actually come in the opposite side (don't drill through the face) and are never seen |
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#22 |
Zilvia Member
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So im tying to order some new lips and is it okay or the bore of the lips to be a tad bigger than the edge on the back of the face where it sits? Like you could move the face around a bit. My wheels use a full forty bolts if that matters.
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Ayo that's crazy @originaldonjosh |
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#24 |
Zilvia Junkie
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^ I've never done a step lip before, but I've been on the hunt for Blitz 03's and it seems like there are more 17" sets than any other size. I would like to stay with an 18" wheel on my car. When you run a step lip, do you also need to change the barrel?
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#25 |
Zilvia Member
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yes you need to get a step barrel as well, i believe VR wheels sells step barrels as well as step lips
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WTF IS JUICE?? I WANT THAT PURPLE DRANK!!! |
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#26 |
Zilvia Member
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The wheels started out 18x8+42 (which im running in the front).
Final specs for the rear came out to 18x9+30 F: 18x8+42 on a 225/40/18 R: 18x9+30 on a 215/40/18 front has a 1.5 inch lip and rears have a 2.5 deep lip. the 2.5 rear lips are original Work wheel lips that have been refurbished/polished Polished original bolts ![]() Lip bolted up ![]() Masked off barrel/lip to apply Silicone ![]() Rears done ![]() Some of the lip bead /tire stretch ![]() top shot of square shoulders and tread ![]() I havent washed the car or shined the tires yet, Im planning to install my GC coilover and Koni set up soon soon. Im gonna drop the front another 1.25 inches and another Inch in the rear ![]() I need to close that gap and wash her haha ![]() Lip sits right at the Fender, i rolled the rear fender with a mini sledge hammer ans a heat gun. and the inner lip is really flat ![]() She is my daily driver and i dont plan for major slammage. I thought id share my rebuild and install pics
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WTF IS JUICE?? I WANT THAT PURPLE DRANK!!! |
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#27 |
Nissanaholic!
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When You are purchasing new Lips (outers) and what size they are/selected,..Do you also have to account for the 1/2-3/4" Face for bolting? (depending on face design of course?)
meaning: i have 4 18x7.5 +45 VSKF that I just got. If i bought say 3" lips (leaving the inner barrel alone), that means really I would have approx 2 1/2" - 2 3/4" of lip to "see"? The rim face takes up a tiny bit of that desired size lip correct? The face on my wheels bolts to the inner Lip, and protrudes over the outer Barrel. kind of like Blitz 03's. have huge lips but the face takes up most of them. Sorry if thats confusing.
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z-tERty-2 |
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#28 | |
Zilvia Addict
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#29 |
ITS LISA'S FAULT!!!
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So I have a question... Please don't flame the hell out of me for this since I'm more or less new to the whole widening idea...
I restored my current set of SSR meshies about a year ago and I really don't want to get rid of them. Wider barrels for them are extremely hard to come by, but would having additional inner barrel welded on to increase width be an actual "safe" method to taking my 7.5s out to say 9"? |
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#30 | |
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