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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series.


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Old 02-16-2011, 12:39 PM   #1
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s14 sr20det problems

so i was running stock everything with exhaust, and FMIC, at 12.5psi. i had my safc tuned and made 292rwhp 316rwtq on a mustang dyno. my turbo blew a couple of weeks later, i swapped it out with a gt2860rs and put on an RYO bottom mount manifold with stainless steel lines. the turbo had roughly 5000 miles when i bought it. my car ran sweet for a couple of days, and then i started to realize i wasnt feeling the turbo at all till 4000rpm (i had been feeling it at full boost around 3.5k). i did a compression test and i had 120s across the board. i had been losing coolant, and my engine overheated but i didnt drive it when it was overheated, i put in a new thermostat, filled up the coolant, and its been fine since. i havnt lost anymore coolant. i have no smoke coming from my exhaust, my oil is normal, no bubbles in my radiator. any thoughts???
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Old 02-16-2011, 02:25 PM   #2
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Compression numbers are pretty low, retest the compression and hold the throttle all the way open, also if you're oil gets really black before 2K miles, you definately have some blow by. Might need to rering engine if compression test is low. Also compression being low would also affect how quickly a turbo spools for sure. I say do a retest and post pics of your spark plugs all in order. But 155Psi is a healthy SR, anything below 125Pis is considered needing a rebuild or do a leak down test and see where the Psi is escaping from, sometimes its just valves that aren't seating well due to carbon buildup.
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Old 02-16-2011, 02:47 PM   #3
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So it seems like any outcome will be expensive?
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:21 PM   #4
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Might just be valves not seating. An Sr20DET longblock (no manifolds or turbo) costs around $900-1000 nowadays from an importer. Might want to go that route since you have everything else.
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Old 02-19-2011, 10:58 PM   #5
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or you have a boost leak. You might have damaged the engine if the tune is bad, did you not upgrade the injectors when it went over the 250rwhp mark? And what is controlling them? and 320 horsepower on an s14 t-28 is unbelievable, not to mention its a mustang dyno.
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Old 02-20-2011, 12:43 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
or you have a boost leak. You might have damaged the engine if the tune is bad, did you not upgrade the injectors when it went over the 250rwhp mark? And what is controlling them? and 320 horsepower on an s14 t-28 is unbelievable, not to mention its a mustang dyno.
nah im pretty sure it isnt a boost leak, no injector upgrade. before i even had it tuned i was at 248rwhp on the mustang dyno, after the tune on my afc, i got to 292rwhp. the fuel setup is totally stock. as far as mods-

-3" exhaust
-apexi neosafc
-hks evc boost controller

and then i put on an RYO manifold and gt2860rs turbo and everything ran amazing for a few days and then went downhill
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Old 02-20-2011, 12:44 AM   #7
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Might just be valves not seating. An Sr20DET longblock (no manifolds or turbo) costs around $900-1000 nowadays from an importer. Might want to go that route since you have everything else.

this is what im thinking. what sites are reliable that i can find a long block on?
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Old 02-20-2011, 01:34 AM   #8
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Wow so your boosting that engine with a bigger turbo on a stock fuel system (370cc injectors) thats dumb,

Your maxing out your injectors and running lean.

On a stock 370cc Injectors a T28 with max them shits out in no time above 10psi.

im surprised that engine hasnt grenaded yet,

I have a dyno chart around here showing the AFR's on my SR with a T28 on stock fuel injectors.

Sure you might be able to cheat a little by bumping up the Fuel pressure and running a garbage ass SAFC but I'll guarantee you that engine wont last long.

As you can see its starting to show
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:42 AM   #9
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does it smoke on a cold start at all? and then goes away?
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