KA24de Turbo problems :/

[jerryscherry]

so picked up a 92 240sx with a k24de with a t3/t4 turbo kit. owner said boosting 5lbs, tial wg, blitz bov, fmic, apexi safc2 , vortech fmu, z32 maf, z32 fuel filter

i noticed blitz bov wasn't working properly, (compressor flutter), opened it, cleaned it, loosened the spring adjuster, still compressor flutter, so tried it on a friends sr20det boostin 7lbs, WORKS FINE. So its not the bov, guessing need a stronger vacuum source? Also the boost gauge was reading -10 vacuum idle. car likes to stall if you hit full boost then put it on neutral. car also idles at around 1000-1100 rpms

Also after we took off the bov and put it back on, we plugged the egr valve and a nipple under the intake mani, turned on the car, vacuum reading like -18 vacuum on idle o.o? weird, and the idle is now like 800-900, car will drop to very low idle and stall many times if u step on throttle( we were testing bov, turns out it is blowing air, but not fully opening, probably need a stronger vacuum) Vacuum drops to about -25 in between shifts, so right when u let off the throttle... and if u put it in neutral rpms will drop to almost 0 and stall many times o.o? Also tried boosting, and boost gauge now went up to 7psi o.O? before it wouldn't go past 5psi. And car doesn't seem to hold boost after 5000rpms anymore. And smells like car is running super rich now..

My first question is, whats a good independent source for bov? it opens but not all the way... brake booster?

Also, why would my car read -18 vacuum idle , drop to -25 in between shift and stall out many times. Why is boost gauge going to 7lbs now when it stayed at 5lbs before and car not holding boost around after 4500 rpms. ALL WE did was take off the bov , and the intercooler pipe, put it back, plugged the egr and intake mani nipples. and all this weird stuff happens o.O?

Gonna have friend look at it again, give the BOV a individual source of vacuum, also the FMU, smells like running super rich. damn ppl who don't do their turbo setups correctly. Any help or advice is appreciated.

some pics of the engine bay and the bov vacuum line, has a bunch of other T's connected to it.









Update 05/16/2012

noticed that it hesitates every once in a while during idle, rpms drop like 50-100 rpms and you can hear the engine hesitate, but only on idle. Also starting to smell like fuel, super richness o.O? im almost at half a tank of gas and only got about 60miles.. WTFFF!??!?!?!


UPdate 05/17/2012 (after taking to G-Dimensions)

So took it to G dimensions, they did a boost/vacuum leak test + compression

Compression is as follows 1-4 : 160, 170, 165, 160

CEL COdes: #11 Cam Shaft Angle, #12 Air Flow Meter, #21 Ignition Signal, #32 EGR

Leaks were coming from EGR and a vacuum hose under the radiator hose.

Also have exhaust leaks from a broken manifold bolt, where the turbo mates the manifold (tightened only on 3 bolts).

They capped the egr and changed the hose. Think they also said i have a misfire.

BOV works now probably has enough vacuum. STill weird though, boost doesn't seem to hold sometimes???? Vacuum pretty normal now, and no more random low idle problems after throttle. But doesn't seem to run as rich anymore, now the FMU got vacuum..


Updates 05/23/2012
I felt it was time to stop being a noob so i opened my hood, stuck my a vacuum line in my ear and moved it around to listen for hissing sounds. Found out one of my vacuum line was old and cracked, the one that leads from under the intake mani, and goes to some black cylinder thingy (i think for fuel) next to the turbo intake and right side of the radiator. i was told i didn't need it, so i ran that line to the BOV, and what do you know, BOV works Flawlessly, and my car is boosting great now, still having idle problems but don't think i secured the vacuum line under the intake mani correctly ( not a lot of space to work with, and it was getting dark). I will try to secure the vacuum line today make it tight, and also redo that coupler on the intercooler on the intake mani side. Car seems to go to a very low idle, or stall after i let off the gas, prob the vacuum leak ,

Updates 06/08/2012
disconnected vacuum for bov, no stalling, no drop in idle. okay so im guessing its the BOV letting out un metered air causing richness and stalling. i didn't know the bov opened when im slightly accelerating to 3k rpm. Regardless, i have a apexi safc2 which has decel settings, i dunno how to wire it though, i have a diagram, but staring at all the wires scares me. So far the apexi safc2 is only measuring throttle % and rpms. i need to wire the MAF and the other stuff. anybody in socal help me out :x? i dont plan to use it as a primary source of tuning. gonna get a enthalpy tune, then dyno fine tune with the safc.

Updates 06/14/2012
Got SAFC wired up, setup DEC AIR settings, no more stalling with bov connected. yay! it does however dipto about 400-500 rpms Sometimes, but never stalls. woot looking to get intake mani prepped and emissions removed,sr20 injectors, enthalpy ecu, woot.

Final Updates
Intake Manifold emission removed and prepped by Jonathan , 370 injectors and N60 Maf installed.

Hit up Jason fro EMance and drove down to san diego, and he hooked me up with a street tune for my setup. (much better then mailing in your ecu to entalpy or something and having them try to estimate your tune.) My A/F ratios are perfect after 3 pulls on the street.

Jason also found out previous owner advanced the timing by 5 degrees... WTF???? anyways he fixed that.

Car runs great now xP lots of reliable power for a daily driver only at 5lbs . Also keeping the apexi safc for teh DECEL settings so i can run my atmospheric BOV.

Took a while, but im glad i cleaned up my setup and did everything right, so i can now enjoy a reliable daily driver.

Thanks alot to Jonathan for prepping my engine and helping me out and referring me to Jason, and Jason of course for the tune !

[s14reaper]

Check Your transmission fluid

[jpbpoway]

Boost leak maybe? And I'm not sure why you would check your transmission fluid for a problem relating to the turbo >.>

[s14reaper]

Hahaha I was thinking the same thing more of a vaccum or boost leak

[jerryscherry]

Originally Posted by jpbpoway

Boost leak maybe? And I'm not sure why you would check your transmission fluid for a problem relating to the turbo >.>

haha hmm what are the symptoms of a boost leak. or vacuum leak o.o?

[jerryscherry]

bumps for updates :/ and only 60 miles on almost half a tank.. super rich much?

[240sxfan6882]

You have vacuum/boost leaks. I have a turbo KA running a t3/t4 and enthalpy tune and I have -22 vacuum at idle and it idles smooth as butter.

Replace/check all of the hoses and make sure the EGR and Air regulator and Idle control valves arent leaking..and that the EGR tube is plugged up or blocked off properly.

As for the car dying after boost its most likely a BOV thats vented to atmosphere and not recirculated.. and/or your MAF is too close to the turbo compressor. Not only would you stall after boosting but also run HELLA rich.
Get a wideband to see your AFRs.

I recommend you get enthalpy and some good injectors such as Tomei/Nismo for SR20 that drop straight in.

Good luck! Keep us updated

[iveexcaped3]

ask a mod to move this to the engine tech section or the s chassis section and youll get more replys

[sterlinge]

Looks like your cold pipe has a bad angle on it. I would bet you have boost leaks. Make a boost leak tester and let us know how that goes.

Edit* also ditch the fmu get some 370s run oem fpr with some kind of tune nistune, enthalpy, jwt, aem ems ect...
Can't tell from the pic but that valve cover hose should be hooked on your intake tube, not the hot pipe.

[Chaluska]

Originally Posted by s14reaper

Check Your transmission fluid

and the power steering fluid.. it could be low, causing a strain on the pump, which causes a parasitic loss on the engine.

[jerryscherry]

Originally Posted by 240sxfan6882

You have vacuum/boost leaks. I have a turbo KA running a t3/t4 and enthalpy tune and I have -22 vacuum at idle and it idles smooth as butter.

Replace/check all of the hoses and make sure the EGR and Air regulator and Idle control valves arent leaking..and that the EGR tube is plugged up or blocked off properly.

As for the car dying after boost its most likely a BOV thats vented to atmosphere and not recirculated.. and/or your MAF is too close to the turbo compressor. Not only would you stall after boosting but also run HELLA rich.
Get a wideband to see your AFRs.

I recommend you get enthalpy and some good injectors such as Tomei/Nismo for SR20 that drop straight in.

Good luck! Keep us updated

Thanks i will be have my friend help me check the vacuum lines, or probably just use new lines, the BOV barely opens causing flutter. Thanks for the input !!!, im pretty turbo noob so prob will seek a professional shop to take my moneys or google all day

Originally Posted by sterlinge

Looks like your cold pipe has a bad angle on it. I would bet you have boost leaks. Make a boost leak tester and let us know how that goes.

Edit* also ditch the fmu get some 370s run oem fpr with some kind of tune nistune, enthalpy, jwt, aem ems ect...
Can't tell from the pic but that valve cover hose should be hooked on your intake tube, not the hot pipe.

thank you will look into that, was thinking of nistune, but wanted to see how bad apexi safc2 works(heard mixed reviews), heard it was pretty decent for mild/low boost applications? i was gonna fix everything and try to dyno tune on the safc2 and see how it works?

THANKS EVERYONE FOR THE INPUT, will be lookingg into it tomorrow. anybody know any reputable shops in socal? i heard of pit garge and g dimensions.

[Garage Life]

Come visit us in El Monte.

[jerryscherry]

Originally Posted by Garage Life

Come visit us in El Monte.

Lol I hit up daniel last week for brake pad change but turned out didn't need em. Yeah sounds good been to ure shop before many times, I shall stop by

[GroundPerformance]

Judging by the pics of the intake manifold that you still have all original emmisions related hoses and unit hooked up. I would recommend you prep the motor first for boost and that means emmisions removal, new gaskets and others. GL!

[240sxfan6882]

Also..is the coupler that holds the charge pipe ripped? From the last pic it looks disconnected or something.....

[jerryscherry]

im taking it to G-Dimensions for a boost/vacuum diagnostic and a compression test. thanks to everyone for the input, i will be sure to tell them to look out for those things.

i hope i don't have a blown head,or head gasket, don't really have any symptoms, but on my ek civic turbo a while back, it wasn't holding boost due to a blown headgasket and neede the head rebuilt. But that was due to radiator wired wrong causing engine to run on hot side and eventually raping the head.

Will post update after i get it checked out at G-Dimensions after works FINGERS CROSSED

[240sxfan6882]

Originally Posted by jerryscherry

im taking it to G-Dimensions for a boost/vacuum diagnostic and a compression test. thanks to everyone for the input, i will be sure to tell them to look out for those things.

i hope i don't have a blown head,or head gasket, don't really have any symptoms, but on my ek civic turbo a while back, it wasn't holding boost due to a blown headgasket and neede the head rebuilt. But that was due to radiator wired wrong causing engine to run on hot side and eventually raping the head.

Will post update after i get it checked out at G-Dimensions after works FINGERS CROSSED

You can check for oil in your radiator...or if you blow a lot of smoke (blue or white)..they are good indicators. Or if you see bubbles in your coolant radiator. I been to that shop, GL

[jerryscherry]

bump for updates after taking to g-dimensions

[GroundPerformance]

Originally Posted by jerryscherry

bump for updates after taking to g-dimensions

You will always have vaccumm/boost leaks if you dont prep your intake manifold for boost and get rid of the emission related parts "EGR and others". Most of those hose are crack already and old. Those hoses and parts may hold vaccumm but onces you hit boost that is where your problem usually shows. Like I mentioned to you before fix this now while your compression is still within specs before its too late. with your specs and power goals below will be just fine. Good luck!

- Emmision removal / Intake manifold prep work
- SR20DET 370cc side feed injectors.
- Rom Tuned KA24DE ecu for Boost application.
- N60 or N62 MAF sensor whichever your tune requires.
- 1-2 step colder spark plugs.

Please you really need to ditch that FMU..

[jerryscherry]

Originally Posted by GroundPerformance

You will always have vaccumm/boost leaks if you dont prep your intake manifold for boost and get rid of the emission related parts "EGR and others". Most of those hose are crack already and old. Those hoses and parts may hold vaccumm but onces you hit boost that is where your problem usually shows. Like I mentioned to you before fix this now while your compression is still within specs before its too late. with your specs and power goals below will be just fine. Good luck!

- Emmision removal / Intake manifold prep work
- SR20DET 370cc side feed injectors.
- Rom Tuned KA24DE ecu for Boost application.
- N60 or N62 MAF sensor whichever your tune requires.
- 1-2 step colder spark plugs.

Please you really need to ditch that FMU..

so emission removal /intake manifold prep will get rid of my boost not holding problem? Thats my main concern, everything else i can get after i make sure my motor can hold boost. Thanks!

[jerryscherry]

so what happens if your turbo is only bolted on 3 bolts and one broken stud? Can this actually cause warping or just a exhaust leak?

[jerryscherry]

bump for update yay

[jerryscherry]

bump for updates 06/08/12, anybody in socal wanna look at my wiring and help me get my apexi safc2 wired up completely ? right now its only measuring throttle % and rpms. need the maf wires etc. Staring at the ecu wires me scared me

[jerryscherry]

bawmp for updates xP

[jerryscherry]

yay got my car tuned by Jason from EMANCE, bump for final updates, its been a few months but now i can say my car is running right ! Thanks for everyones input on doing everythign right and ditching the FMU lol.

[GroundPerformance]

You'll finally get to enjoy your KA-T.

[zerodameaon]

Still have your butterfly valves on there?

[jerryscherry]

Originally Posted by zerodameaon

Still have your butterfly valves on there?

I think they were removed, when the emissions were removed