Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[WERDdabuilder]

Originally Posted by Rich260z

Yes, make sure you completely drain it. Why would you do this in the dead of winter?

thanks for the reply. i dont have time at the moment to fix the heater core the correct way and i need to get my car driving for work tomorrow. plus, cali winters are not harsh enough that i would need to blast the heater. coat and some anti-fog on my windows and im good to go.

[hOngsterr]

Originally Posted by WERDdabuilder

looking to bypass my heater core for a couple months, just checking to see if i got this right...


do i connect those two hoses with a U-shape hose and ill be fine? sr20 btw.

Bypassing the heater core - SR20 Forum

after you do that do what i linked under.

SR20DET coolant line simplification. - Give Me Shred ? Give Me Shred

Originally Posted by MamangSorbetero

How much does good-condition, OEM S13 Silvia front bumpers cost in the market today? It just needs paint, nothing is cracked or cut out. Thanks

from what i read ~$300

[D-KILLA]

Originally Posted by dev71893

Well where does rpm sit w/ fans on?

sits at about 1grand..i noticed the higher idle after i put in bk7re's in
I was using apexi heat range 7 plugs for almost a year (car ran good) and decided to put in some NGK's since i read good reviews on them.


and conrad they are controlled by a fan controller/relay. They are altima fans wired on HIGH once the temp hits 78-80 degrees. once it cools off the rpm goes down a little and the AFR goes back to 14.7-15.3

[maces13]

Originally Posted by sleepyS14se

alignment needed!

It was the steering rack bushings!!! I'm still getting a alignment though. I also got new LCAs w/bushings, sway bar bushings, and inner tie rod for f pass side. Thanks for the help !!

[Reds92coupe]

Hey guys im very new to the car scene. I need a little help. i picked up some z32 26mm calipers F&R. Disassembled the front calipers and popped out the pistons. Well i think this is where the fun stops. 5 out of 8 pistons have little tiny scratches. above where the square cut o ring is. Dont know if i should just slap them back in and roll with it or buy some new one from raybestos at 25 dollars a piece. if any of you guys can help me id appreciate that very much. Also the pistons are very smooth. cant feel the scratches. Checked the cylinder walls and they are smooth as well.

[acslater9]

I bought a flare nut wrench and decided to somehow use the smallest wrench I had in the set to open the brake line with. As always bad luck on my side whenever I do something to my car. My flare wrench got stuck on the brake line, and I have no idea how to remove it. I used WD40 to loosen it and did not move. I tried shaking the shit out of it and nothing. I tried to break the wrench with a power tool I had and nothing! The wrench was to slippery so I couldn't handle it correctly and was scared that I would cut myself.

Any suggestions on trying to take out this damn thing is appreciated. Thank you.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by acslater9

I bought a flare nut wrench and decided to somehow use the smallest wrench I had in the set to open the brake line with. As always bad luck on my side whenever I do something to my car. My flare wrench got stuck on the brake line, and I have no idea how to remove it. I used WD40 to loosen it and did not move. I tried shaking the shit out of it and nothing. I tried to break the wrench with a power tool I had and nothing! The wrench was to slippery so I couldn't handle it correctly and was scared that I would cut myself.

Any suggestions on trying to take out this damn thing is appreciated. Thank you.

did you used to have the screen name 'HIP HOP HIPPO'?

First, use DENATURED ALCOHOL to wash off the wrench(You will go to either Walmart or a paint store to buy this, I prefer a paint store because I HATE Walmart but they do have everything even if 99% of it is Chinese shit)

Second, go stop by anyplace that sells tools and get a pair of mechanic gloves with grip palms

Third, get a large socket that fits over the wrench. Using your gloved hand, grab that, and push firmly and smoothly TOWARD the heavier part of the brake line. As you do this, move the wrench as if you are loosening the nut. This should disengage the stuck wrench without breaking parts. If you ARE HIP HOP HIPPO, you will most certainly break the brake parts you are working on and have to buy new ones or ask if you can fab some fake ass junk to fix it with by using the broken parts

[acslater9]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

did you used to have the screen name 'HIP HOP HIPPO'?

First, use DENATURED ALCOHOL to wash off the wrench(You will go to either Walmart or a paint store to buy this, I prefer a paint store because I HATE Walmart but they do have everything even if 99% of it is Chinese shit)

Second, go stop by anyplace that sells tools and get a pair of mechanic gloves with grip palms

Third, get a large socket that fits over the wrench. Using your gloved hand, grab that, and push firmly and smoothly TOWARD the heavier part of the brake line. As you do this, move the wrench as if you are loosening the nut. This should disengage the stuck wrench without breaking parts. If you ARE HIP HOP HIPPO, you will most certainly break the brake parts you are working on and have to buy new ones or ask if you can fab some fake ass junk to fix it with by using the broken parts

No, I am not Hip Hop Hippo. I have another question I took out the entire brake hose so now I have nothing to hold it together with. And I think it makes it ten times harder than it would have been with the brake hose still connected to it. How would I take this out now? I just took some pictures of it so you can get a better feel of what my problem is.

[GabeS14]

Originally Posted by acslater9

No, I am not Hip Hop Hippo. I have another question I took out the entire brake hose so now I have nothing to hold it together with. And I think it makes it ten times harder than it would have been with the brake hose still connected to it. How would I take this out now? I just took some pictures of it so you can get a better feel of what my problem is.

Could you try to heat up just the part that's stuck without heating the tool itself?
it would expand and might come off easier.

LOL at the name hip hip hippo....

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Reds92coupe

Hey guys im very new to the car scene. I need a little help. i picked up some z32 26mm calipers F&R. Disassembled the front calipers and popped out the pistons. Well i think this is where the fun stops. 5 out of 8 pistons have little tiny scratches. above where the square cut o ring is. Dont know if i should just slap them back in and roll with it or buy some new one from raybestos at 25 dollars a piece. if any of you guys can help me id appreciate that very much. Also the pistons are very smooth. cant feel the scratches. Checked the cylinder walls and they are smooth as well.

Are you able to take emory cloth or scotch pad to them to clean them up at all?

Originally Posted by acslater9

Any suggestions on trying to take out this damn thing is appreciated. Thank you.

Hold the back half the line with pliers, and bang it with a hammer. She'll pop off. Spray it with brake clean to get the crap off the line too to make it less slippy

[robinsone]

Originally Posted by Reds92coupe

Hey guys im very new to the car scene. I need a little help. i picked up some z32 26mm calipers F&R. Disassembled the front calipers and popped out the pistons. Well i think this is where the fun stops. 5 out of 8 pistons have little tiny scratches. above where the square cut o ring is. Dont know if i should just slap them back in and roll with it or buy some new one from raybestos at 25 dollars a piece. if any of you guys can help me id appreciate that very much. Also the pistons are very smooth. cant feel the scratches. Checked the cylinder walls and they are smooth as well.

You're fine, there's no problem there. I've rebuilt so many Z32 calipers its ridiculous. So when the 26mm first came out they didn't machine the caliper at all, that is to the say the piston receptacle portion of the caliper, it was actually not machined. I would guess you have the newer version which has a smooth machined piston receptacle. I had a similar issue of slight scarring on the piston surface. All I did was every so slightly remove it with a very fine sand paper or scrub until it I got it back to a mirror like finish. On my 26mm's I did the same for the piston receptacle as they weren't machined. There really isn't need to buy new ones, even if the outside or inside of the piston is rusty i've just sandblasted the rust out and taken 0.5mm off of the top with a lathe, you'll be fine. But as long as there isn't any rust you don't have to worry about that. The greatest threat is the piston o-ring and then installing with brake grease so you don't damage the o-ring and get a good seal to the piston. You can almost always reuse pistons despite the wear and tear they're pretty tough. Link to a good rebuild and these pistons were in pretty bad shape,

Rebuilding the Brake Calipers

[Fries]

Are the plugs different (to chassis harness) between the s13 and s14 lower (trans, etc) harness?

Basically can I use a s13 lower harness for my s14?

[acslater9]

Got the stuck wrench out yay! But here comes another problem for me yay!

Are the lines coming out of the brake master cylinder called Brake lines right? Anyways, yeah I tore up the other side. Yup somehow I managed to do that. Now I'm pissed because I go to work tomorrow without a car.

My question, where can I get an exact replica of it? Does it have to be from my year car (91') or can it be from any year 89-94? Thank for everyone's help.

[solo_ryder]

To those with gtr seats in a s14:

Do they sit lower or go slightly further back then the stock s14 seat?

[rustys13o_0]

STUPID QUESTION !!
I just purchased a Datsun 2wd pick up.. 1980,
I searched vaguely and nothing.. I refuse to read this entire thread to find the answer I'm looking for, please help!
I'm not sure the engine code tho I'm sure they are not all too far off for the enquiry. Every thing on the truck is proper and looks healthy maintain. Apparently the temperature gauge does not work so the previous person fitted it with a digital one. My question is, what should the normal reading be? I drove the vehicle for ten mins. (understanding they don't warm up quickly) and it was reading 125.. Did on and off driving, stop and go. On my last run, not very far read 201 and blinking. Got home, no prob, truck off. Turned the key back on after 3 or so mins and it read 125, no blinking. What is the verdict??

[solo_ryder]

Originally Posted by rustys13o_0

STUPID QUESTION !!
I just purchased a Datsun 2wd pick up.. 1980,
I searched vaguely and nothing.. I refuse to read this entire thread to find the answer I'm looking for, please help!
I'm not sure the engine code tho I'm sure they are not all too far off for the enquiry. Every thing on the truck is proper and looks healthy maintain. Apparently the temperature gauge does not work so the previous person fitted it with a digital one. My question is, what should the normal reading be? I drove the vehicle for ten mins. (understanding they don't warm up quickly) and it was reading 125.. Did on and off driving, stop and go. On my last run, not very far read 201 and blinking. Got home, no prob, truck off. Turned the key back on after 3 or so mins and it read 125, no blinking. What is the verdict??

Depends on the thermostat installed but most cars will run at 180-220 range. Anything over that I would get worried. It may be a good idea to see if the rad fan is working as well as the thermostat.

[rustys13o_0]

Thank you, I'm positive the thermostat is out as I see one laying on the floor board ill work the cooling fan tomorrow on my risky drive to work tomorrow. Thank you for replying.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by acslater9

Got the stuck wrench out yay! But here comes another problem for me yay!

Are the lines coming out of the brake master cylinder called Brake lines right? Anyways, yeah I tore up the other side. Yup somehow I managed to do that. Now I'm pissed because I go to work tomorrow without a car.

My question, where can I get an exact replica of it? Does it have to be from my year car (91') or can it be from any year 89-94? Thank for everyone's help.

you might peruse Nissan Parts | Online Nissan OEM Parts and Accessories and input your VIN. This will pull up YOUR car and all it's parts in parts break down exploded views. It will also let you know if the part is still available. Their costs, shipped are usually within a dollar or two above or below any local purchase, and usually tens of dollars below Car Quest(butt pirate shop that overcharges for anything related to an import car)

[acslater9]

Will a 1992 240sx brake line fit my 1991 240sx?

[ZenkiZenki14]

Does anyone know where I can buy head light clear lenses, crystal clear corners, crystal clear side markers, and the LED tails for a 95 s14 (Zenki) all in one place, so I don't have to pay seperate shipping?

[Rich260z]

Originally Posted by rustys13o_0

Thank you, I'm positive the thermostat is out as I see one laying on the floor board ill work the cooling fan tomorrow on my risky drive to work tomorrow. Thank you for replying.

You should go to ratsun.net. I'm fairly sure they will help you better than zilvia.

[Rich260z]

Originally Posted by acslater9

Will a 1992 240sx brake line fit my 1991 240sx?

Yes it should

[240ss]

Question: As far as rear coilover bushings, what are you guys doing to replace them if theyre worn out? Mine are shot and looking for options other than buying whole new bottom mounts

[brady]

I recently swapped an RB25 neo into a 97 240. I have the wiring specialties harness hooked up correctly. But when I turn the key over the engine turns over but doesn't crank. Doesn't even attempt to crank, no sputter nothing.

Can anyone help me out?

Before anyone asks, yes there is fuel pressure, and yes I have spark. Yes, it's also timed. i'm at a loss, posting here is pretty much last resort. thanks in advance for any help.

[rustys13o_0]

How are you getting spark if the engine doesn't crank, FYI, engines crank and then turn over. Make sure firing order is right. Ecu is straight. If your timed tdc, you have fuel, and spark the engine should start, ecu could be bad faulting injectors. If its a blown NEO o_0Wiring is a handful I've seen. They have to be primo on this swap.

[rustys13o_0]

Originally Posted by Rich260z

You should go to ratsun.net. I'm fairly sure they will help you better than zilvia.

I'll peep the site now I have this 720. It runs and starts like a champ, drives fine. Never passed 136*f . No power compared to my s13. Thanks dude.

[mechanicalmoron]

On the subject of trucks....

What kind of oil (weight, and any special "old shit" additives, or anything) should I put in a ford 351C, in an 81 f150? (only got an alleged 78k on the ticker, but everything leaks - still, maybe not a "high mileage" engine)

[brady]

Sorry about not being clear, it's turns over every time I turn the key. It just doesn't fire up and run. It isn't blown or anything, it was running like a champ when I pulled it from my 95 240. i guess I'll go through and check my harness. It was used in the 95 also.

Another issue I'm having, is every time I connect my battery it blows my 100A fuse.

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by ZenkiZenki14

Does anyone know where I can buy head light clear lenses, crystal clear corners, crystal clear side markers, and the LED tails for a 95 s14 (Zenki) all in one place, so I don't have to pay seperate shipping?

I noticed FR Sports has ALL that stuff, at least they did yesterday

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

On the subject of trucks....

What kind of oil (weight, and any special "old shit" additives, or anything) should I put in a ford 351C, in an 81 f150? (only got an alleged 78k on the ticker, but everything leaks - still, maybe not a "high mileage" engine)

Get some 'High Mileage' type oil, like Castrol or other dinosaur juice. It's a '81 F Series, you sure that's a Cleveland block and not a Windsor? Either way, changing the oil pan gasket is a no brainer and lower than Skill level I. It's a ford truck, it will run regardless of how much it leaks, but stopping the leaks is super easy.

Originally Posted by brady

Sorry about not being clear, it's turns over every time I turn the key. It just doesn't fire up and run. It isn't blown or anything, it was running like a champ when I pulled it from my 95 240. i guess I'll go through and check my harness. It was used in the 95 also.

Another issue I'm having, is every time I connect my battery it blows my 100A fuse.

You have a big short to ground somewhere, that is why you are having the problems

[acslater9]

Should I use zip ties on my z32 conversion brake lines to hold them in place? Thanks