The Sr20/Sr22vet thread

[rbs14kouki]

Originally Posted by livelovesole

Thank you so much for the great info guys. I just happened to run into a P12 head first so I jumped on it. Brndck: I planned in running the mazworx intake plenum And E85. I was thinking that it would of been better insurance to upgrade the valvetrain but wasn't too sure yet. Ralliart: do you think keeping the 5.5mm intake valves is best then?

Fyi last time i checked . Mazworx only make a manifold for the p11 head not p12 !

[hanzbrady]

Originally Posted by rbs14kouki

Fyi last time i checked . Mazworx only make a manifold for the p11 head not p12 !

No, we make them for both the P11 and the P12/20V.

[rbs14kouki]

Originally Posted by hanzbrady

No, we make them for both the P11 and the P12/20V.

my bad !!! Good stuff Hanz

[Yellow4g63]

Originally Posted by hanzbrady

No, we make them for both the P11 and the P12/20V.

Maybe you can help me with this question. What valve springs do you run with the P11 head for turbo? 115? or 138? I remember a few years ago Mazworxs warned about using the 138's because they were showing abnormal wear on the cams? I just don't want to spit a shim out if I bounce off the limiter @9k with N1 cams.

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by Yellow4g63

Maybe you can help me with this question. What valve springs do you run with the P11 head for turbo? 115? or 138? I remember a few years ago Mazworxs warned about using the 138's because they were showing abnormal wear on the cams? I just don't want to spit a shim out if I bounce off the limiter @9k with N1 cams.

A lot of people run the 9Xlbs springs. Anything over the 12Xlbs cause abnormal wear and really aren't needed.

The Factory P11 springs are actually stiffer than the P12 springs. Cam profiles, particularly ramp profiles play a large role in what spring rates are necessary too.

This page has a list of valve spring seat pressures. http://pulsar.org.au/forums/showthre...l-advise/page3

[bardabe]

Originally Posted by Yellow4g63

Maybe you can help me with this question. What valve springs do you run with the P11 head for turbo? 115? or 138? I remember a few years ago Mazworxs warned about using the 138's because they were showing abnormal wear on the cams? I just don't want to spit a shim out if I bounce off the limiter @9k with N1 cams.

I was actually having this same exact dilemma, called Supertech & spoke to them about the use for the car. basically if it's a road race / drift car they recommended the 115 spring kit for the N1 cams. he said the 138 is for drag cars only.

[rbs14kouki]

Double post

[s13silvia123]

I assume some of you guys are using aftermarket throttle bodies. Are any of you guys using the one Mazworx provides or a different brand?

[brndck]

Originally Posted by s13silvia123

I assume some of you guys are using aftermarket throttle bodies. Are any of you guys using the one Mazworx provides or a different brand?

I have a q45 90mm one, but I'd love to have a ross or something that was cleaner and shinier.

[1988montecarloss]

kind of off topic but i figure this is where the guys with the most power hang out so would be the best place to ask

is the comp clutch white bunny 6 puck good for 400ish whp? or is there anything better out there in the same price range?

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by 1988montecarloss

kind of off topic but i figure this is where the guys with the most power hang out so would be the best place to ask

is the comp clutch white bunny 6 puck good for 400ish whp? or is there anything better out there in the same price range?

I preferred the RPS Max Street clutch. You can get it in a 6puck, I ran it with a full face disk at 360whp. Multiple passes at the drag strip, 30k miles of daily abuse. Sold it with plenty of life left on it.

[LuckyX2]

Don't get the stiffest Supertechs, you will destroy shims.

Source: The destroyed shim 1ft away from me on my desk.

[600supersport]

Without almost any details about your setup, I'm guessing you don't have one quite yet so I'll just say that the motor can easily hold 1.3 bar from a EFR7670...or at least mine and everyone else's in here can which really doesn't mean anything.

[Kaisen]

Originally Posted by 600supersport

Without almost any details about your setup, I'm guessing you don't have one quite yet so I'll just say that the motor can easily hold 1.3 bar from a EFR7670...or at least mine and everyone else's in here can which really doesn't mean anything.

I'm running ID 725 injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Spool conrods, CP 86x 9.0:1 pistons, 93lb supertech valvetrain set, Tomei HG, stock P11 cams.

Would be happy to put, say, 450hp to 500hp

Currently running on stock turbo at the moment, looking to upgrade to a 7670, hence I'm asking around. Thank you for your time!

[600supersport]

Yeah, then just depending on how high the dyno you use reads, you should be able to make between 450-500. As for the boost control strategy, I guess it depends on how simple or complex you want to be, but if you put a 1.3bar spring in, you're keeping things simple as long as the WG is plumbed effectively.

[Hyaboosta]

I've been keeping an eye on the build threads and this one and I'm starting up my first vet build. I'm looking to make a car to have fun with on the streets as far as some racing. My question is that I'm going to sleeve the block 9:1 87mm full supertech valve train on e85 1200cc injectors. Is that power goal realistic without having to increase the stoke of the bottom end with the right turbo/manifold set up?

[TheRealSy90]

With the power you'd make at 9:1 87mm and 1200cc there's no need to sleeve the block really.


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[hanzbrady]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

With the power you'd make at 9:1 87mm and 1200cc there's no need to sleeve the block really.


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When it comes to sleeving blocks power level is only one thing to consider, another is what the engine will be used for. For example, someone who's building a 300hp weekend toy would be fine on stock sleeves vs an engine that's being built specifically for road course racing where you see a lot more heat cycling for that I'd definitely recommend to sleeve, even if it's only for 300hp.

[Hyaboosta]

Originally Posted by hanzbrady

When it comes to sleeving blocks power level is only one thing to consider, another is what the engine will be used for. For example, someone who's building a 300hp weekend toy would be fine on stock sleeves vs an engine that's being built specifically for road course racing where you see a lot more heat cycling for that I'd definitely recommend to sleeve, even if it's only for 300hp.

Well aiming in the 700 range and boring out to 87mm I have seen quite a few builds here say that they have had ovaling of cylinders. The car would be to have a little fun to drive and for the occasional drag racing. To reach that power I would have to be hitting the 35psi range more than likely and that territory has a lot of room for oops. I'm just wondering as I'm buying the parts would this be realistic without stroking the motor? I'm glad Hanz jumped in, I'm in Fort Lauderdale and would def be bringing it up to you guys to do the machine work and assembly. I'd feel much better having a shop that really knows this build inside and out do it rather than one down here.

[hanzbrady]

Originally Posted by Hyaboosta

Well aiming in the 700 range and boring out to 87mm I have seen quite a few builds here say that they have had ovaling of cylinders. The car would be to have a little fun to drive and for the occasional drag racing. To reach that power I would have to be hitting the 35psi range more than likely and that territory has a lot of room for oops. I'm just wondering as I'm buying the parts would this be realistic without stroking the motor? I'm glad Hanz jumped in, I'm in Fort Lauderdale and would def be bringing it up to you guys to do the machine work and assembly. I'd feel much better having a shop that really knows this build inside and out do it rather than one down here.

If you're looking to make 700 you're looking at sleeving the block. If you want a quote shoot me an email, [email protected]

[candyred_240sx]

Originally Posted by Hyaboosta

Well aiming in the 700 range and boring out to 87mm I have seen quite a few builds here say that they have had ovaling of cylinders. The car would be to have a little fun to drive and for the occasional drag racing. To reach that power I would have to be hitting the 35psi range more than likely and that territory has a lot of room for oops. I'm just wondering as I'm buying the parts would this be realistic without stroking the motor? I'm glad Hanz jumped in, I'm in Fort Lauderdale and would def be bringing it up to you guys to do the machine work and assembly. I'd feel much better having a shop that really knows this build inside and out do it rather than one down here.

Definitely sleeve the block if your going for that power. Also you will need bigger injectors if you're planning to run e85... I run 1650cc fic's which are starting to max out on e70 running 32 psi on on Gtx3076r .78 twin scroll

[Hyaboosta]

Originally Posted by candyred_240sx

Definitely sleeve the block if your going for that power. Also you will need bigger injectors if you're planning to run e85... I run 1650cc fic's which are starting to max out on e70 running 32 psi on on Gtx3076r .78 twin scroll

Great info to know ahead of time about the injectors. I'm curious about your dyno numbers on your setup since I'm going for a really similar build as yours. Is your turbo just about maxing out already?

[TheRealSy90]

Ovaling cylinders sounds like bad machining to me.


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[hanzbrady]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Ovaling cylinders sounds like bad machining to me.


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It comes from the cylinders being thin and having lots of heat thrown at them.

[TheRealSy90]

Those new stainless steel ID1700 whatever's are pretty amazing.


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[600supersport]

Have you guys at mazworx found much difference between factory sleeve 86.5mm vs 87mm bore around these 600-700whp levels?


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[LuckyX2]

7163 owner here. P12 head with N1 cams. 404whp/338ftlbs at only 20psi and 6500rpm on a Mustang Dyno. Was blowing out spark anywhere above that. Have since put in IGN-1A coils and going back for 25-30psi/8-9k. Should pull 500whp/400ftlbs no prob and spools great with the mixed flow TiAl wheel.

[RZRSHARP_240SX]

I'm running a 7670 twin scroll on my 2.2 vvl with n1 cams. Making around 360whp on 14 psi. Need to switch out to a high boost actuator. I am liking the response so far.

[RalliartRsX]

Originally Posted by RZRSHARP_240SX

I'm running a 7670 twin scroll on my 2.2 vvl with n1 cams. Making around 360whp on 14 psi. Need to switch out to a high boost actuator. I am liking the response so far.

Nice! Have a dyno chart by any chance?? Curious to see boost onset on a 2.2 VVL with N1 cams.

From what I am seeing, I am going to forgo the P12 and go straight to N1 cams on my setup

[LuckyX2]

Originally Posted by RalliartRsX

Nice! Have a dyno chart by any chance?? Curious to see boost onset on a 2.2 VVL with N1 cams.

From what I am seeing, I am going to forgo the P12 and go straight to N1 cams on my setup

Just keep in mind the N1s have a lot of overlap which becomes a problem with large backpressure and a 2.2 is going to generate more backpressure than a 2.0 assuming everything else is the same. I'm actually concerned a bit that the N1s are going to limit me when I shoot for 30psi. I may adjust the cams to reduce the overlap a bit.