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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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03-10-2005, 10:20 AM | #61 |
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ok... i am running the aem ems on my setup now w/ the 5 bar map sensor.. which rocks.. it means no more maf and no need to worry about all that bs...
the map sensor kicks but.. also. i ran an arc fmic for a s13 sr20det and it bolts up great... just needed to modify the turbo outlet side other than that it fit on intake manifold pretty well..
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04-15-2005, 05:38 PM | #62 | |
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Lindsay hates KA's. Emanage info is up for you people that don't like JWT ecu's or Safc's... (seperate thread) HERE Stand alone is ALWAYS a good idea. If you have the money for tuning and what not. You get complete and total control of the motor and its functions and that cannot be matched by any piggyback. 300RWHP can easily be done on a piggyback or a standalone. Although the timing issues with a piggyback make standalone a little better option.
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05-12-2005, 11:12 PM | #64 |
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I am currently rebuilding a KA24E to be turboed. So far I have started on the cylinder head and for anybody interested SI Valves has some good valve terrain components for both KA24DE and KA24E as well as many other applications.
I am using the "Swirl Polished" performance series valves. They have an undercut stem, Chromed stems & Stellite tips as well as fully swirl polished. Thier Manganese-Bronze Valve Guides are also high quality and awesome guides. The web site is: http://www.sivalves.com/home.html
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07-14-2005, 08:59 AM | #69 |
I'm a fucking idiot who can't read, and needs to be ridiculed publicly. Maybe, at some point in the future, I will cease to suck, and comprehend gigantic bold letters before making a post.
P.S. I suck. Last edited by Jeff240sx; 07-18-2005 at 01:21 AM.. |
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07-18-2005, 01:14 AM | #70 | |
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09-25-2005, 09:11 AM | #72 |
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These are the Prerequisites to building a DOHC Turbo. Together we will go through typical setups from mild to extreme to reach the power goals you desire. These are lists of typically used items that are easily attainable by the average person. All setups should have the Air to Fuel Ratio verified on a dyno with wideband or at very least on a track using an in-car wideband setup (NO watching the standard O2 signal and calling it good). If your using pump gas and seeing air to fuel ratios more lean than 11.8:1-12:1, some rethinking on the tuning/fuel setup will be needed. A narrowband guage(typical A/F guage from Autometer for instance) is not complex enough to be a real indication of the ratios inside your combustion chamber.
Very Mild Build: around 180 rwhp Turbo Manifold Blow Off Valve Turbo (T25) Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body Fuel Control: FMU (not recommended, but doable) Raises fuel pressure per boost to make injectors flow more than normal. SR 370cc Injectors. These can be found at places found at the bottom) Apexi SAFC2 Greddy Emanage Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp. Turbo Manifold Blow Off Valve Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount) Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated. Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well. Fuel Control SR 370cc Injectors Apexi SAFC2 Greddy Emanage Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run. Turbo Manifold T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended. Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that. Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool. Fuel Control 550cc Injectors SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu. MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard. Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT. Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp. Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning. Block Internals This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons. Above Average: 350 rwhp to 425 rwhp Turbo Manifold Blow Off Valve T3/T04E 50 Trim .48/.63 or slightly larger turbo, this is where I would start to make the switch up to an external wastegate. You have the option to reroute it back into the exhaust, or merely "dump" it out into the open. "Dump" is usually a mini exhaust in the form of 1.5" piping routed out to the open. FMIC Larger is starting to be necessary. Typical for setups from here on, are 12"x24"x3" for the core. Downpipe 3", at this point I would switch to the larger downpipe. You can probably get away with it at 2.5", but it will be causing a little bit of backpressure. Moving to 3" piping as quickly as possible is what you want though. Usually it is necessary to have the first bend 2.5" to clear the steering shaft though. Exhaust 3" Block Internals At this stage you'll want to "build" or fortify your block to better handle boost. Previous to this you can walk the line, but here and forward I find it necessary to do so. Forged Rods Forged Pistons Stock Crank Plus your typical rebuild items. Fuel Control Standalone fuel management is recommended at this stage in the game and is absolutely necessary at the next. These allow you control not only very large injectors, but the tuner to have complete control over both timing and fuel. 720cc Injectors. Wideband O2 Sensor is necessary for tuning. Wild Build: 425 rwhp to 600 rwhp. Lag is obviously going to be much more apparent, full boost isn't going to happen until around 4000-5000 rpms or so. Once spooled it will pull very hard. Turbo Manifold Turbo T3/T61/SC61 or GT35R seem to be the typical turbo's in the area. External Wastegate is your only option that should be considered. Blow Off Valve You'll want a good performing more expensive blow off valve to alleviate reverted air when the throttle body closes from pushing against the compressor wheel. FMIC the 24"x12"x3" Core's are still effective in this range. Downpipe 3" is still capable of handling these power levels Exhaust 3" or larger Fuel Control 720cc-1600cc Injectors Standalone Fuel Management Recommeded to switch to Map instead of Maf for reading airflow. Wideband 02 Sensor installed and wired into standalone for adjustments and monitoring. Dyno tuning is very valuable. Block Internals Along with the previously mentioned internals I would add these to the list Cams (per your discretion) Build your head as well Valve Springs Valve Retainers ARP Head/Main Studs Cometic Headgasket or similar Absolute turbo necessities...amongst the aforementioned goodies above. Oil Lines (Picture of good return location) Boost gauge Here's lists of aftermarket products that are currently on the market Turbo Build Parts: Turbo Manifold (Exhaust Manifold) Ground Zero Motorsports Full Race Peak Boost (release date TBD) Revhard Turbo240.com JGS Precision Realnissan.com Import-AutoPerformance.com Nizzx.com SSAutochrome (not recommended) BOV Tial Greddy RS JGS HKS SSQV Wastegates Tial JGS Turbonetics Block Internals Pistons: Can be accomplished one of two ways, by purchasing ones that are made for the E with their intended compression ratio. The other is to use DE pistons and subtract a full compression point to equal the difference between the E and DE head. (ie 9:1 DE pistons will be 8:1 in an E) Arias 8.8:1(DE) Wiseco 9:1(DE) JE 8.5:1 Ross 8.5:1(DE) CP 9:1(DE) Supertech 9:1 Rods: Any rod that will fit the bottom end of the DE will work with E as well. Crower Pauter Carillo Eagle (release tbd) Bearings Whatever your preference is for rebuilds. Mine is Clevite. Headgasket Cometic Valves Supertech Dual Valve Springs SI Valves Ferrea Valves Retainers Supertech Titanium Retainers Cams PDM Racing Nissan Motorsports Colt Cams Crower JWT Technology Typical Injectors Used on DOHC SR 370cc Injectors SR 480cc Injectors (S15) SR Upgrade Injectors are available in various sizes between 550cc-720cc as side feed, anything larger usually you'll want to switch to a top feed fuel rail and injector combination. Injector Resistors (To alter low impedence to work with a high impedence ecu) JWT Technology JGS Precision |
09-30-2005, 12:16 PM | #75 |
"ok... i am running the aem ems on my setup now w/ the 5 bar map sensor.. which rocks.. it means no more maf and no need to worry about all that bs..."
there is one problem with a map sensor that a maf doesn't have. as the engine wears, vacuum decreases, but the map sensor continues to read it the same. Your ecu can compensate to a degree, but a maf sensor is much more accurate. you wouldn't use a carbeurator on a fuel injected engine (well some people might, but you lose any chance of having mileage and performance from the same engine), so why use a map when you can use a maf? |
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10-17-2005, 09:42 PM | #76 |
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Are you stupid? Or just too lazy to read the giant bold post.
Don't post questions unless you're posting the goddamn answer! -Jeff Last edited by Jeff240sx; 11-03-2005 at 10:41 AM.. |
11-03-2005, 08:29 AM | #77 | |
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11-03-2005, 10:51 AM | #78 | |
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1-2in/Hg won't really mess up the tune to any significant point. And for a higher loss of vacuum, you can ALWAYS retune it. The major disadvantages of a MAP are 1) you need a IAT sensor. We have one, so this isn't really an issue. And 2) when you do a major upgrade that affects the vacuum or changes the power band - you need to do a full retune. -Jeff
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11-08-2005, 10:42 PM | #79 | |
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11-23-2005, 12:27 PM | #80 |
cobra MAF
One reason they may use the cobra MAF is resolution. The ECU uses A/D converters that have a certain number of "steps" per volt. SO... if the Z32 maf maxes out at say 3.2 volts (rather than 5, because they don't use the extra 200HP worth of air flow) the ecu uses only about 64% of its full scale input voltage. Now take the cobra maf, which needs to have values subtracted to stay within HP limits. The ECU now uses 100% of it's input range and either the low or high end is compromised a bit. So with the z32, unless you are making 545 HP, then you are effectively constraining the steps in airflow possible over you're entire power range and are compromising over the entire power range. The cobra however does this only at one end of the spectrum (probably the low end). In otherwords, you'll be able to more precisely tune fuel and timing for a given airflow with a cobra maf than with a z32, up to a certain power level.
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12-15-2005, 05:42 PM | #82 |
Leaky Injector
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02-05-2006, 02:06 PM | #83 |
Leaky Injector
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what ya think
what u think i can make
bottom end: crower rods, 9-1 supertech pistons with swain coating, slight bore 90mm, and crank and everything balanced head: ported intake manifold, supertech valves, supertech spring and retainer, altima intake cam and 91 240sx exhause cam, 72lbs msd injectors, jwt fuel rail, aeromotive fpr, cobra mafs, jwt ecu, also a cometic head gasket turbo stuff: t3/to4e, jgs exhaust manifold, and apexi gt spec intercooler |
02-17-2006, 04:39 PM | #84 |
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One question I was unable to find an answer for...
What is the thread size of oil pressure switch (to T into for an oil feed). I was ASSuming 1/8" BSPT, but it doesn't look correct.
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03-02-2006, 05:11 PM | #86 | |
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03-06-2006, 09:50 AM | #87 |
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turbo oil drain fitting
Doesn't someone make an oil pan fitting that doesn't require welding?
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03-08-2006, 03:56 PM | #88 |
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Yes, Russell makes a little oil return fitting kit. it is a -10an fitting with pipe thread on the other side. Includes gasket and nut. Ill double check the part number when i get to work, but im pretty sure thats it.
Found it. Russell # 697100 Oil pan flange, adapts a male -10 AN to any oil pan, zinc plated steel, includes gasket and mounting bolts It was on their website, no pic, I will still double check at work. Last edited by 95Blue240sx; 03-08-2006 at 04:15 PM.. |
03-12-2006, 02:43 PM | #90 |
can a 89-94 ka24de the ones on s13s the manual transmission fit on the new ka24de the 95-98 cause my friend is selling a manual transmission with everythin from the old ka24de n im sick of this sissy a.t. on my s14
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