1UZFE into S-Chassis

[MiamiZ33]

Oh and this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNMiTrsTcXY

[cardelino18]

ECU basically resets it self every time i turn off the car because since the alternator isnt wired up, i disconect the battery every time.. i cant read code because there is no cluster in the car with a CEL.

wires were changed about 2 weeks ago (junk yard cables, but they are in good conditions) same with plugs (not junk yard lol)

this issue has been hunting me

[MiamiZ33]

Originally Posted by cardelino18

ECU basically resets it self every time i turn off the car because since the alternator isnt wired up, i disconect the battery every time.. i cant read code because there is no cluster in the car with a CEL.

wires were changed about 2 weeks ago (junk yard cables, but they are in good conditions) same with plugs (not junk yard lol)

this issue has been hunting me

What? You should have a constant +12V to the ecu at all times. Your alternator being wired up is irrelevant.

I wired my ECU CEL to the factory CEL in the S13 cluster. You have to jump two wires in the diagnostic plug on the 1UZ harness for it to flash the codes, but I have it setup on a momentary switch so I can press it if I want the codes displayed. Otherwise, the CEL just flashes constantly, or is solid if there's a code (or maybe the other way around).

Did you put in your new wires before the engine started running weird or after? IF it was before, then I'd still question them because of that water issue you said you had.

[cardelino18]

after it started doing that.... the issue started about a month ago and since then ive changed spark plugs, wires, MAf, intake manifold gaskets (all 6). i have the cluster (not installed) but the car didnt come with a chassis harness (or any harness at all)

[Fries]

Originally Posted by MiamiZ33

Oh and this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNMiTrsTcXY

Sweet video! (also bitchin heli-rig) Will you be going to any events?

[Fries]

Originally Posted by MiamiZ33

I wired my ECU CEL to the factory CEL in the S13 cluster. You have to jump two wires in the diagnostic plug on the 1UZ harness for it to flash the codes, but I have it setup on a momentary switch so I can press it if I want the codes displayed. Otherwise, the CEL just flashes constantly, or is solid if there's a code (or maybe the other way around).

MiamiZ33, what two wires did you use to jump? I wasn't aware of needing to do that.

Also, did you use the KA transmission? Did your transmission xmember bolt right up? What did you do for driveshaft?

Obviously you have a s13 and I have a s14, but I'm just trying to get an idea for what I need to do. Sadly I have to go do Army stuff for 2 months so I won't be able to work on the car to get the measurements.

[MiamiZ33]

Originally Posted by Fries

MiamiZ33, what two wires did you use to jump? I wasn't aware of needing to do that.

Also, did you use the KA transmission? Did your transmission xmember bolt right up? What did you do for driveshaft?

Obviously you have a s13 and I have a s14, but I'm just trying to get an idea for what I need to do. Sadly I have to go do Army stuff for 2 months so I won't be able to work on the car to get the measurements.

Fries,



I did my first event (local skidpad-type) last saturday. The car ran perfectly fine, my ears are still recovering from the drive to the track though. It took me all night to realize the car is tire limited and I will be investing in some not-so-stretched tires - the car just makes so much torque that the more throttle input I gave it, the less angle I got. It was my first time at the track, and I had higher expectations for myself, but I did OK and made some noise and smoke. I'm going to have to get more wheels so I can get more seat time at each event.

As far as the CEL goes, the 'W' wire from the ECU goes right to your CEL on your cluster, but you'll have to jump TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic plug to get it to flash out the codes. Here's a listing of the codes.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

I am using a Z33 tranny so I had to make a crossmember for the trans. Driveshaft is a steel Driveshaftshop custom driveshaft.

[MiamiZ33]

I opened up my radiator today and it was quite low, so I added some fluid and rebled the system thinking that this was the reason I was having cooling issues last weekend at the track. Well, the good news was the temps didn't get over 140 with the car just sitting at idle for 15-20 minutes.

But, with the car just sitting there a puddle of water started to form underneath the car, coming from just behind the crank pulley and dripping down onto my power brace. I couldn't get a good picture of it, but it looks like the water is coming out of a little hole.

Help me out my ninjas!

[turbronegro]

What standalones are everyone running? I want to go turbo this summer.

[PowerDrifter]

cant wait until my 1uz is done

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7rp_VgxGSk

[satal95]

So still no writeups for the harness conversion????

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[badass8]

Oh yeah what radiator are you guys using? I was hoping to keep my Koyo KA24DE radiator since I mean Its a Koyo. I would just have to mod the hoses I assume correct?

[MiamiZ33]

Originally Posted by badass8

Oh yeah what radiator are you guys using? I was hoping to keep my Koyo KA24DE radiator since I mean Its a Koyo. I would just have to mod the hoses I assume correct?

I'm running a Myshittymoto SR20 radiator.

I think the outlets are different for KAs and SRs, so you'll have to look into that.

[w0lfatncsu]

They are. It looks like an sr rad will come close to lining up with the factory 1uz hoses.

[satal95]

Sr radiator is what you want to use. U can get by using the ka but like u said u would need to run custom hoses

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[badass8]

Awesome thanks for the replies.

Looks like Ill be selling the KA Radiator then. Since I found which radiator hoses to use.

It also looks like my swap will be starting shortly. Should be picking this up tomorrow:

[satal95]

For the people running the ka transmission what adaptor plate are you using and what do you do about the pilot bearing and throw out bearing

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[turtle m3th]

I think I've figured out an oem (volvo) solution for the pilot bearing. Just need to get the part # of it. And for the throwout bearing extension, I actually feel that it's best to just mill the bell housing down the half inch that the sleeve would be extended anyhow. Safer, probably cheaper as well if the clutch assembly will clear. I may have this confirmed sooner or later, but I haven't had any customers running a ka trans, so yeah. If you guys wanna pool together some cash, I can get confirmation for ya'll! In doing so, your shifter would pushed back 1/2" less than usual!

[w0lfatncsu]

That definitely sounds like a better plan than a throwout bearing extension. Are you looking at milling down both for the adapter plate as well as to account for not extending the throwout sleeve?

[turtle m3th]

No, only the bell housing needs to be machined 1/2" and that's if your adapter plate is 5/8" thick. If the plate you are using is thinner than that, you just machine it a bit less.

[w0lfatncsu]

Nice. That's good to hear. I was originally considering a vq 6 speed but I'm going to stick with the ka trans and trying to weigh my options

[Fries]

Would the shaft go in too deep? Is that a thing? I'm not even sure. I really shoulda just done a z33 trans I think. The extra money would have been worth being able to handle larger tires in the back.

[anerh678]

Anyone selling a modded 1uz flywheel or stock 3gste flywheel and clutch pressure plate

[satal95]

What do you need turtle a ka bell housing?

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[badass8]

Alright I have my first engine in my garage ready to get this started. This will be my first swap ever and I am freaking excited! I will be doing this with a KA transmission.

My question is what do you guys do with the serpentine belt? For example I wont be using the mechanical fan or the AC, do I just need a smaller belt?

I looked into it and I seen that people use this belt: 6PK1600

[turtle m3th]

badass8 - yeah, you just need a smaller belt.

satal95 - I've got a spare ka trans chillin out, i'd pretty much just need the money for the machining of the bellhousing. I'd take care of it myself, but I have no need to do it at the moment. This would actually lose me money because it's one less service i'd be providing folks, but as long as we put our efforts together to make this swap as efficient as can be, I don't mind putting forth the effort to figure these things out.

fries - It is possible that the input shaft would bottom out, but my z trans isn't anywhere near doing that with 5/8" removed from the bell housing. I can take some measurements to confirm whether this would happen or not tomorrow. Worst case scenario is you bust out the old grinder and take off a little bit of material from it.

[turbronegro]

Anyone know a place in SoCal that'll make a twin-scroll t4 header?

[turtle m3th]

Just finished up some 1uz stuff for Panda-Eats-240. I'll be offering the same package for $250 shipped (after paypal fees) since these are the items folks seem to order the most.



Package includes:
Intake manifold egr block off plates (no exhaust block off since the headers need to be welded on anyways)
motor mounts (poly mount not included, but you can also use your stock motor mounts)
transmission brackets (these allow you to mount your trans 1 1/4" back for proper motor placement. That's also the length you'll need to shorten your drive shaft by.)

Feel free to hit me up if you've got any questions.

[sarhd]

Awesome man so when will i get the transmission brackets and I guess the egr block off plates since i was supposed to get the pilot bearing adaptor from when I bought the mounts from you.

Also still need to send you my manifolds have them boxed up but just haven't had time to take them to the post office

[MiamiZ33]

Originally Posted by MiamiZ33

I opened up my radiator today and it was quite low, so I added some fluid and rebled the system thinking that this was the reason I was having cooling issues last weekend at the track. Well, the good news was the temps didn't get over 140 with the car just sitting at idle for 15-20 minutes.

But, with the car just sitting there a puddle of water started to form underneath the car, coming from just behind the crank pulley and dripping down onto my power brace. I couldn't get a good picture of it, but it looks like the water is coming out of a little hole.

Help me out my ninjas!

Anybody got any ideas? Or a 1UZ pulled out that they can take a look at what this little hole is I'm talking about?