The fabrication thread.

[DerrickS13]

Originally Posted by shiftdrift

so i'd like to know how to get the color effect to my stainless tig welding....i know it has to do with heat/contimination right? i know it's not as strong, but for manifolds it doesn't matter.

That really nice blueish pink color that you see is how welded stainless is supposed to look. if your welds are vary dark or black looking you are over heating the stainless

[atutt]

Originally Posted by shiftdrift

so i'd like to know how to get the color effect to my stainless tig welding....i know it has to do with heat/contimination right? i know it's not as strong, but for manifolds it doesn't matter.

ugh another one

Originally Posted by DerrickS13

That really nice blueish pink color that you see is how welded stainless is supposed to look. if your welds are vary dark or black looking you are over heating the stainless

To elaborate on this.

SS should be treated almost identical to Titanium. In that, the colours of the weld should be one of following. Bright silver, silver, light straw, straw, salmon, light salmon... Blues and purples indicate air contamination. So do other colours like bright gold or yellow.

If the puddle is grey or dark grey it can be either too much amperage, moving too slow, or not having adequate gas coverage... If the puddle is black in any way. Almost certainly puddle contamination.

[shiftdrift]

My stainless welds are silver and salmon, I know how they're supposed to look, I was just curious how to get the colors. I knew it was contamination

[Chamb-O]

Originally Posted by atutt

Spray arc transfer on that mig'ed random flange?

just a hot stitch weld
Penetration should be decent as long as I hug the flange right?
its like welding thick to thin as far as I see it
I should have had a mild steel flange to match the piping that was on the car but we don't stock mild steel

Originally Posted by ka-titties

WUT?!

pics of said 944 perhaps?

everything underneath is tight as shit
tranny is still in the rear
like 37x hp corrected

[DisEpyon]

Originally Posted by DerrickS13

That really nice blueish pink color that you see is how welded stainless is supposed to look. if your welds are vary dark or black looking you are over heating the stainless

Actually the ss welds are supposed to be the same color of the material being welded on, such as a shiny silver color. You get this with i guess you could say proper gas shielding and heat. Everyone has a different setup on how they like to weld, but are still able to get the silver color that is if your experienced with ss. But yeah having the shiny colors (purple,blue etc...) means your on the right path in getting better in my opinion.

Picture of what im talking about. (NOT MINE, from honda-tech in welding section username agtronic in canada).

[godrifttoday]

^
that guy has progress alot!! Very nice looking welds

[Future_gohan]

s13 subframe in d21, almost finished for a customer, still gotta install the coilover setup and custom upper camber arms. other than that its completely stock. Had to move the gastank to the rear and lower it down to clear the bed.

[Dark Spec]

ive been thinking of doing this for a wile, post up more pics if you got em... good work man

[Future_gohan]

it's not too too hard actually, I ran into a bunch of problems but nothing that wasn't expected sense this is the first one I've done, so I've just been doing it one step at a time. I haven't completed the coilover setup or the custom camber arms yet but once they're done I'll post up some more pictures

[Broadfield]

atutt, or anyone else that may have hands-on experience with these models, what are your opinions on the Miller Diversion 165 or 180?

atutt recommended the Syncrowave 200 several pages back for me, but I just want to see if one of these would suffice and I could save some money while I'm at it. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a tig and my cash flow is not what it was when I originally asked the question. I was set on the Syncrowave 200 per atutt's recommendation and did not have an issue with the price at the time. However, my LS3 project is officially out of hand monetarily and I'm looking for slightly cheaper options.

Does not need to be "ultra" portable... 50 - 60 lbs. is easily acceptable. Will probably never weld anything over 1/8" aluminum, some stainless etc. Will probably get used 20 - 30 times a year at most. I'm obviously not a welder for a living. I'm installing 220 in my home garage as we speak and have 220 in my shop at my business. I guess the 110 input option on the 180 would be nice if I had to take it over to a friends house or something, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra money?

Opinions?

[godrifttoday]

^
I'm also been thinking of the 180. Less weight and all... I ready won't be welding too much thick stuff but if I could find a syc 200 for a good price, I would get that for sure... If u going to pay all that money might as well get something stronger... Even though u might be using it a few times a year...

[eazye2000]

Here's a few little projects I've worked on. Not sure if they are 'fabrication' or not, but I'm sure a mod will judge and delete if necessary...

KA24DE stand-off's.


Bike and Trailer. (no pics, but the Samurai in the background I built too)


Ugly MIG welded intake manifold:

[PerilousActs]

I, too, would love to hear thoughts on the diversion 180. I've been thinking of swooping a tig setup to go along with all of the other fab tools I've purchased this month (14" chop saw, protools bender, tubing notcher, etc) but would love to hear some input on some of these slightly cheaper options.

[duffman1278]

Originally Posted by PerilousActs

I, too, would love to hear thoughts on the diversion 180. I've been thinking of swooping a tig setup to go along with all of the other fab tools I've purchased this month (14" chop saw, protools bender, tubing notcher, etc) but would love to hear some input on some of these slightly cheaper options.

Go to Millers forum and read up on peoples experiences with it. I've read nothing but good results from it. I was going to get it only because it was the cheapest inverter machine offered between miller and lincoln. But I just couldn't feel comfortable enough with the hand so I went with a syncrowave because I just needed the foot pedal.

Miller Welding Discussion Forums

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by duffman1278

But I just couldn't feel comfortable enough with the hand so I went with a syncrowave because I just needed the foot pedal.

Yeah, I figured I can always add the foot pedal to the 165 for under $150... it comes with the 180 though.

Thanks for the link, I'll have to take a look.

[atutt]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

atutt, or anyone else that may have hands-on experience with these models, what are your opinions on the Miller Diversion 165 or 180?

atutt recommended the Syncrowave 200 several pages back for me, but I just want to see if one of these would suffice and I could save some money while I'm at it. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a tig and my cash flow is not what it was when I originally asked the question. I was set on the Syncrowave 200 per atutt's recommendation and did not have an issue with the price at the time. However, my LS3 project is officially out of hand monetarily and I'm looking for slightly cheaper options.

Does not need to be "ultra" portable... 50 - 60 lbs. is easily acceptable. Will probably never weld anything over 1/8" aluminum, some stainless etc. Will probably get used 20 - 30 times a year at most. I'm obviously not a welder for a living. I'm installing 220 in my home garage as we speak and have 220 in my shop at my business. I guess the 110 input option on the 180 would be nice if I had to take it over to a friends house or something, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra money?

Opinions?

Toby, I don't have any hands on experience with the Diversion line.
But, I'll give you my opinion on them.
The D-180. Worth the extra $500? I would say yes.
Having the ability to connect to a 115v outlet is definitely handy in times of need. Like you said. If you're over at a friends or whatever. All it will take is just a few times to make that 115v option valuable. Even on the 115v setting Miller claims it can weld up to 1/8''.
The fact that it comes with a foot pedal is also nice.
If you buy the D-165 you could possibly end up paying an extra couple hundred bucks just buying one and shipping it. Almost making cost as much as a Diversion 180 in the first place.

I'm old fashioned and find TIG welding infinitely easier with a foot pedal. I just can't get comfortable enough with a remote torch set up.

In terms of amperage though.. trying to justify an extra $500 for 15 amps hardly seems worth it.
But the foot pedal and 115v option I think make the Diversion 180 worth the extra $500.

The ONLY thing i don't really like about either one is the auto-post flow feature. I personally HATE not being able to control the post flow.

So if I were in your shoes. I would spend the extra $500 on the Diversion 180.

I hope this helps,
Adam

[s14vqswap]

I like the carbon fiber radio trim you made for the s14. Just wondering what thickness of carbon fiber you used, and was there a gap at the bottom where it meets with shift boot trim, cause of the way it bows out at the bottom? thanks

[Zacho]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

atutt, or anyone else that may have hands-on experience with these models, what are your opinions on the Miller Diversion 165 or 180?

atutt recommended the Syncrowave 200 several pages back for me, but I just want to see if one of these would suffice and I could save some money while I'm at it. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a tig and my cash flow is not what it was when I originally asked the question. I was set on the Syncrowave 200 per atutt's recommendation and did not have an issue with the price at the time. However, my LS3 project is officially out of hand monetarily and I'm looking for slightly cheaper options.

Does not need to be "ultra" portable... 50 - 60 lbs. is easily acceptable. Will probably never weld anything over 1/8" aluminum, some stainless etc. Will probably get used 20 - 30 times a year at most. I'm obviously not a welder for a living. I'm installing 220 in my home garage as we speak and have 220 in my shop at my business. I guess the 110 input option on the 180 would be nice if I had to take it over to a friends house or something, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra money?

Opinions?

As it has been said the D180 is definitely a better buy.

- It has the 120v ability(go to customer/friends place and do some small jobs) or even run it off a small generator at the track.
- Comes with a foot pedal and the 165 doesn't

Only reason I didn't buy it was lack of adjustability, I want more than one knob control. I really wanted a dynasty but its just too much money for personal use.

Now I know some of the more die-hard blue or red welders would want to cut my throat for suggesting this. But you may want to look into the everlast tig machines. I use the iTig200 DC unit mostly at home. I was very uneasy about buying a chinese made unit but it has been an awesome machine. A friend who bought the diversion now wishes he got one too.

Tig Welding tig welder tig welding equipment tig welding gloves

Having pulse/more adjustability was a big seller for me. I normally use a foot pedal but on thin sheet I love to use pulse.

[BlazedGlory]

I'm looking at a Thermal Arc TA200... just something else to consider...

[PerilousActs]

Another chinese brand I've read good things about is Longevity. Quite a few people on weldingweb and pirate4x4 use their multi unit (stick, tig, plasma).

[91 240]

i finished mocking up the driver side manifold over the weekend.

[godrifttoday]

I want to make a welding table how thick should I make the top?

[91 240]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

I want to make a welding table how thick should I make the top?

for mine pictured above, i used 1/8" plate.

[tougedreams]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

I want to make a welding table how thick should I make the top?

I used 1/4in for mine but wish I would of used 3/8.

[godrifttoday]

Originally Posted by tougedreams

I used 1/4in for mine but wish I would of used 3/8.

Why 3/8?, is 1/4 metal warping? I plan to attach a vise to it. Usually they give me a really good price where I buy the metal at. I'll just go by price difference... But most likely 1/4...

[tougefactory]

This is S14. We took out the hump so we can put custom seat rails in. Lower seat = Lower center of gravity = WIN!

[tougefactory]

S14 again.

Working on some tubs to make room for wide tires it'll be running.



In order to really maximize the benefit of tubs you have to get rid of the ridge in the fender well. This ridge limits 3/4" of clearance.



Than reinforce and weld in a thick sheet in for strength.

[tougefactory]

This is our time attack evo 8

Rear wing stands and fuel cel holding cage. Downforce is everything.

[180wanabe1]

I used 1/4 for my welding table, along with 1/8 angle for the frame and there's also a middle brace so 1/4 was plenty for the top on mine.

[Chamb-O]

Originally Posted by tougefactory

This is S14. We took out the hump so we can put custom seat rails in. Lower seat = Lower center of gravity = WIN!

I did that on my car too


I used 18 guage
what did you use?