This is the interior thread

[DoobieS13]

Originally Posted by Corbic

Wait, that's in a 240?

na, mark II

[Draggin A$$]

Originally Posted by Corbic

Wait, that's in a 240?

Toyota Mark II JZX110

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by DoobieS13

na, mark II

Cool, the way it was worded sounded like he swapped it.

[c72c]

Originally Posted by Corbic

Wait, that's in a 240?

No .. JZX110 Mark II

edit... didn't see this page. lol.
Sorry if I confused anyone else. I was trying to just specify the dash.

[RB Me]

Originally Posted by c72c

Finally got a picture of Skrappy's JZX110 dash with everything installed.
I did the gauge pod up top and he mostly did the trim with the turbo timer and boost controller.

really liking this.

[Broadfield]

Just finished up my first cluster utilizing Autometer gauges. Usually I make fun of Autometer stuff, but all things considered, they don't look half bad in there. Consists of (2) 4", (2) 2-1/16" and polished front glass.

[Martino]

^To bad you couldn't utilize the stock plastic cover and get rid of the odo/clock holes.
Looks flawless none the less.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by Martino

^To bad you couldn't utilize the stock plastic cover and get rid of the odo/clock holes.
Looks flawless none the less.

Yeah, this gets covered every time I post up a cluster. You really don't notice them once the cluster is mounted under the visor of the dash board. They only pop out at you because the cluster is in direct light for the pictures. Kind of like how you don't really notice the one at the bottom of the RPM gauge... they will all look like that or better once the cluster is installed in the dash.

[Dolph_KYAS13]

Taking a stab at making a turbo timer surround from an S13 maplight (Thanks for the inspiration mr Broadfield) Ive got some more sanding filling and priming. this is where im at so far.



Will be mounted on the bottom left of the steering wheel.

[whiterps13]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Yeah, this gets covered every time I post up a cluster. You really don't notice them once the cluster is mounted under the visor of the dash board. They only pop out at you because the cluster is in direct light for the pictures. Kind of like how you don't really notice the one at the bottom of the RPM gauge... they will all look like that or better once the cluster is installed in the dash.

LOL we talked about this sunday. I will admit that it looks 1000x more obvious when the cluster is in full light outside of the vehicle. When installed its not noticable at all. Plus, the cost to reproduce that cover in a custom format without the holes would far outweigh the SMALL difference it would make in a real-world situation. 240 guys are just way too cheap.

[K_style]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

A small custom gauge setup I did in my friend's '05 STi.

You can check the build pics here:

Mike Defalco's Vent Gauge STi album | Broadfield | Fotki.com, photo and video sharing made easy.

Nice.... But what about ICE COLD A/C blowing to your FACE !???

=( why would people give up that awesome privilege????

[Crondy]

thas fuggin sex

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by K_style

Nice.... But what about ICE COLD A/C blowing to your FACE !???

=( why would people give up that awesome privilege????

Last I checked cars come with more than one vent!?!

[-***JOKER***-]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

is that say i/c water spray on the button?

[pandaroo]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

hey broadfield gotta question for you. where do you get the signal for the aftermarket speedo's? im assuming you have to get a dakota digital box to convert to the right signal? im doing a engine swap with a custom cluster and am trying to figure what im going to do.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by -***JOKER***-

is that say i/c water spray on the button?

Well it's an STi, so they come stock with an intercooler sprayer

Originally Posted by pandaroo

hey broadfield gotta question for you. where do you get the signal for the aftermarket speedo's? im assuming you have to get a dakota digital box to convert to the right signal? im doing a engine swap with a custom cluster and am trying to figure what im going to do.

Couldn't tell you, I just fabricate the clusters... the customer has to wire it themselves. The only two I have ever wired were my own and Daoud's. However, both of us used the Defi HUD which has a self-learning speedometer.

[K_style]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Last I checked cars come with more than one vent!?!

Still.. =(

haha looks awesome !

[David48]

^ Because race car

[slydin240sx]

Using one vent to mount a gauge in will hardly affect a/c and or heat output. Unless your ride only has one vent...

[MrFairlady]

Originally Posted by GabeS14

it is thanks. they made it kinda bulky though. but at least it gives me more options.
any one else know of non traditional guages?

I have the PBM gauge and am Currently opening the hole on the Cruise Control Buttons on a S14 Cluster Surround to House it.

Almost fits perfect now, but needs a tiny work. Should Be Sweet. Perfect Eye view too.

[slydin240sx]

Originally Posted by MrFairlady

I have the PBM gauge and am Currently opening the hole on the Cruise Control Buttons on a S14 Cluster Surround to House it.
Almost fits perfect now, but needs a tiny work. Should Be Sweet. Perfect Eye view too.

Nice idea, but how do you get to the button on the side?

[roddogg]

Originally Posted by koenig

or this guy

love the tl1000r wish i still had my sold it to get a r1 then sold it to build my drift car

[GRNxS14]

Originally Posted by pandaroo

hey broadfield gotta question for you. where do you get the signal for the aftermarket speedo's? im assuming you have to get a dakota digital box to convert to the right signal? im doing a engine swap with a custom cluster and am trying to figure what im going to do.

MSD Ignition 8913 MSD Tach Driver

Auto Meter 9117 Auto Meter Tach Adapter for DIS Ignition Systems

Either of these will do it for you! They have to wire into the power wire to the coilpacks. So I recommend you wire it up while the engine harness is out for ease.

[pandaroo]

^^^ i was actually talking about the spedometer. but i need one those tach adapters anyways thanks for the link lol.

[c72c]

Reupholstered the door panels in my wife's car (Just the white vinyl anyway). Also re-sprayed the handles and window switches.

Before-


Close up with everything off. The front panels were simple since I didn't have to sew anything. The rear door is like the s13. Had to pull the piece off, sew the material on, then put it back on the panel.


After. Also fixed the netting at the bottom.




This is how the rear was.


and now. Before I re-sprayed the handles.

Originally Posted by Broadfield

Yeah, this gets covered every time I post up a cluster. You really don't notice them once the cluster is mounted under the visor of the dash board. They only pop out at you because the cluster is in direct light for the pictures. Kind of like how you don't really notice the one at the bottom of the RPM gauge... they will all look like that or better once the cluster is installed in the dash.

Have you thought about filling the holes in one to pull a mold from and making them from clear casting resin?
I'm sure if it doesn't bother people, it's no big deal, just a thought.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by c72c

Have you thought about filling the holes in one to pull a mold from and making them from clear casting resin?
I'm sure if it doesn't bother people, it's no big deal, just a thought.

You have no idea how much work that would be. Since the front clear cover has the clips built in, it can't be done with a simple mold... there would be no way to release the part without doing a mold that breaks down into multiple pieces. It would also need to be in a pressure pot in order to remove all air bubbles. Customers would not want to pay for this. However, I bought the parts yesterday to make a pressure pot and continue with my effort to simply fill the holes. I messed with this a little a few months ago, but just have not had time to mess with it anymore. I experimented filling the holes with acrylic glue... with promising results once it's wet sanded. But I needed a pressure pot to force the air bubbles out. So I'll be constructing that tomorrow out of 2' x 6" PVC, 6" end cap, 6" clean out and an air fitting with a regulator. I look forward to the results.

[Prime]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

You have no idea how much work that would be. Since the front clear cover has the clips built in, it can't be done with a simple mold... there would be no way to release the part without doing a mold that breaks down into multiple pieces. It would also need to be in a pressure pot in order to remove all air bubbles. Customers would not want to pay for this. However, I bought the parts yesterday to make a pressure pot and continue with my effort to simply fill the holes. I messed with this a little a few months ago, but just have not had time to mess with it anymore. I experimented filling the holes with acrylic glue... with promising results once it's wet sanded. But I needed a pressure pot to force the air bubbles out. So I'll be constructing that tomorrow out of 2' x 6" PVC, 6" end cap, 6" clean out and an air fitting with a regulator. I look forward to the results.

If you're using something similar to Weld On #16, I think you'll be fine. Though I'm curious as to whether you're applying vacuum or pressure in the pot. I've got a nice vacuum chamber for pulling air out of dense liquids, so I think that might work for what you're thinking of doing too. And they're stupid simple to build.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by Prime

If you're using something similar to Weld On #16, I think you'll be fine. Though I'm curious as to whether you're applying vacuum or pressure in the pot. I've got a nice vacuum chamber for pulling air out of dense liquids, so I think that might work for what you're thinking of doing too. And they're stupid simple to build.

I'm using Weld On #40... it will have better clarity than the standard #16. I also have a vacuum setup, but you want to use a pressure pot when forcing air bubbles out. Vacuum setup is more for when you want to laminate materials and you want to pull air out in order to get the best bonding possible of the materials. I just want to force air bubbles out, not bond materials together. Pressure pots are even easier to build and a lot cheaper that a vacuum bag setup.

This is a good example below, however, I will not need that much pressure nor for that long:

How to pressure cast clear resin

[rat240]

[Prime]

Originally Posted by Broadfield

I'm using Weld On #40... it will have better clarity than the standard #16. I also have a vacuum setup, but you want to use a pressure pot when forcing air bubbles out. Vacuum setup is more for when you want to laminate materials and you want to pull air out in order to get the best bonding possible of the materials. I just want to force air bubbles out, not bond materials together. Pressure pots are even easier to build and a lot cheaper that a vacuum bag setup.

This is a good example below, however, I will not need that much pressure nor for that long:

How to pressure cast clear resin

I was a dealer for Weld On products at my last job. 40 is tough stuff to move, so I didn't do a lot with it. I also sold about 50 different varieties of resins, and I've always vacuumed them when using, so I was curious. Never considered pressure, and I can understand how it works now that I'm thinking about it. But it's not something very standard with the composites I sold/used, so I was more curious than anything else. I vacuum bag laminates, chamber silicone mold rubber, casting resins, all kinds of stuff. The only time I use pressure is in an autoclave, in combination with vacuum. Thanks for the link, though.

Thinking on it more, the way materials tend to expand under vacuum could cause a problem, especially considering how nasty smeared Weld On is to clean up. Thanks again, for giving me something to tinker with over the next couple of weeks.