GT2871 USERS. SR motor

[Mile High Silvia]

Originally Posted by EsChassisLove

To be honest it could use a re-weld anyways haha. Put it half way between the nozzle and the TB. Don't put it in the manifold.

Lol yea not the finest quality weld but it works lol. Any issues of meth hitting the ait sensor?? Seems like it would get chewed up by the meth pretty easily. But I may be wrong.

I'm probably losing out on huge torque gains and better gas mileage since I'm a retard and mounted the nozzle after the ait sensor. Oh well she still drifts like a mofo and track proven times. 13.7 wot all the way down the track w/o meth, 13.8 @90 mph and completely letting off at the top of 3rd gear and coasted across the line(didn't feel like wearing a helmet). I'm at 6,000ft above sea level hence the slow times.

[jamg]

Is anyone using BC 264 cams? That's what I have in my motor. Lol I see JWT is popular. No BC love?

[AsleepAltima]

I have the bc stage 2 cams in my sr. I had them with the 2871 and they really woke it up. However, I'll be going to the JWT's as well.

[jaysgottaredtop]

guys, bit of odd trouble with my setup, looking for some input.

SR, 2871, 740cc, N62, RS-Enthalpy tune, yadda yadda

car cranks up and idles fine. revs up and down fine. idle settles out to 13:1 or so AFRs. base timing is set to ~20ish, as best i can get it with the TPS unplugged and such. fuel pressure is at 3 bar where it should be. boost leak test showed no leaks. BOV flange is blocked off (so no release to atmosphere). no ignition break up issues. no ECU codes thrown. all seems fine and dandy.

but (1) it feels a bit sluggish during hard driving, as if the ECU is pulling too much timing as it climbs in RPMs. (2) response is hesitant during quick shifts. and (3) when i drive it (i.e. when it sees load) and i clutch in, the idle drops to 500ish and tries to die (usually doing so). if i clutch in and feather the throttle, i can keep it alive and after 10 secs or so i can ease off the throttle and it'll idle fine again, blips revs and all.

it doesn't seem to be fuel or spark... base timing is a tad advanced (~20 instead of ~15) but otherwise seems fine, at least at idle. no codes thrown. i'm baffled. any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


EDIT: got the timing nailed down in the 15-17 range. the car still feels a little sluggish and the AFR only drops to ~13 when i get into boost. i'm out of ideas on why i'm running lean in boost. no post MAF leaks, fuel pressure is set correctly, no ECU codes.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by SR20HAYES

Yea I'm using a internal gate. Plan to set up an external eventually. Im also using a hallman manual boost controller. I'm sure an EBC would help. Cams are stock as well and this is my first tune from RSE tune.

The car pulls really hard, no complaints there. I just read a lot of people were hitting full boost sooner which is why I posted to get some insight as to what I should upgrade to see full boost a little sooner and if 4k was normal on a completely stock internal motor. Thank you for your reply cody. Oh and I see you have in you signature something about external gated manifolds. Is that a stocky with an external?

The I/G combined with a manual controller could be the root cause of it all. That alone can cause a lazy response.

And yes, we mod stock manifolds to utilize external wastegates pretty often. Shoot me a PM if you are interested:

[white_lightning240]

Bought Tomei poncams 256 11.5about 2 years ago at the time I felt like it would be ok for my stock Sr with t28 but I've just recently bought a bunch of stuff
720cc injectors
z32 maf
apexi hg
Tomei Ras, springs
splitfire coilpacks
Greddy plenum intake manifold
Megan exhaust manifold (free)
Lightweight pulleys
Bm fpr
circuit sport v3 ss solid bushing
Koyo rad 2 12 fans
Greddy fmic
Enthalpy tune
Gt2871r .64
HKS hi power exhaust
Greddy ebc
Blitz fatt
act Hdss clutch
Tomei elbow
aem wideband
New cas
and more my ultimate goal is around 380+/- and I'm thinking these cams might be too small for the goal I have but I don't want to shift the power band to far towards the top end because I want to drift it do you guys feel like these would be enough to match the rest of the set up or should I go bigger?

[ultimateirving]

I am pretty sure stock cams are good up to 400 hp, so with the poncams at 256, although not as large as you could go should support your power goals.

Originally Posted by white_lightning240

Bought Tomei poncams 256 11.5about 2 years ago at the time I felt like it would be ok for my stock Sr with t28 but I've just recently bought a bunch of stuff
720cc injectors
z32 maf
apexi hg
Tomei Ras, springs
splitfire coilpacks
Greddy plenum intake manifold
Megan exhaust manifold (free)
Lightweight pulleys
Bm fpr
circuit sport v3 ss solid bushing
Koyo rad 2 12 fans
Greddy fmic
Enthalpy tune
Gt2871r .64
HKS hi power exhaust
Greddy ebc
Blitz fatt
act Hdss clutch
Tomei elbow
aem wideband
New cas
and more my ultimate goal is around 380+/- and I'm thinking these cams might be too small for the goal I have but I don't want to shift the power band to far towards the top end because I want to drift it do you guys feel like these would be enough to match the rest of the set up or should I go bigger?

[KA240SX808]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

guys, bit of odd trouble with my setup, looking for some input.

SR, 2871, 740cc, N62, RS-Enthalpy tune, yadda yadda

car cranks up and idles fine. revs up and down fine. idle settles out to 13:1 or so AFRs. base timing is set to ~20ish, as best i can get it with the TPS unplugged and such. fuel pressure is at 3 bar where it should be. boost leak test showed no leaks. BOV flange is blocked off (so no release to atmosphere). no ignition break up issues. no ECU codes thrown. all seems fine and dandy.

but (1) it feels a bit sluggish during hard driving, as if the ECU is pulling too much timing as it climbs in RPMs. (2) response is hesitant during quick shifts. and (3) when i drive it (i.e. when it sees load) and i clutch in, the idle drops to 500ish and tries to die (usually doing so). if i clutch in and feather the throttle, i can keep it alive and after 10 secs or so i can ease off the throttle and it'll idle fine again, blips revs and all.

it doesn't seem to be fuel or spark... base timing is a tad advanced (~20 instead of ~15) but otherwise seems fine, at least at idle. no codes thrown. i'm baffled. any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


EDIT: got the timing nailed down in the 15-17 range. the car still feels a little sluggish and the AFR only drops to ~13 when i get into boost. i'm out of ideas on why i'm running lean in boost. no post MAF leaks, fuel pressure is set correctly, no ECU codes.

I'm going to vote the ECU going/is bad.
Friend had the same issue with his stock setup and ECU.
After exhausting everything out I told him replace the ECU.
Runs perfectly fine now.

He was also having issues being 13-14:1 AFRs under boost and feels like the power just drops off a cliff once it hits 5k.

[huffandpuff00]

I agree with ultimateirng, the 256 should be good for 380-400whp with all of your supporting mods. I didnt see the larger throttle body on your list of upgrades. I would look into the era1 72mm TB. they are local'ish and its a quality piece.

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

I am pretty sure stock cams are good up to 400 hp, so with the poncams at 256, although not as large as you could go should support your power goals.

Originally Posted by white_lightning240

Bought Tomei poncams 256 11.5about 2 years ago at the time I felt like it would be ok for my stock Sr with t28 but I've just recently bought a bunch of stuff
720cc injectors
z32 maf
apexi hg
Tomei Ras, springs
splitfire coilpacks
Greddy plenum intake manifold
Megan exhaust manifold (free)
Lightweight pulleys
Bm fpr
circuit sport v3 ss solid bushing
Koyo rad 2 12 fans
Greddy fmic
Enthalpy tune
Gt2871r .64
HKS hi power exhaust
Greddy ebc
Blitz fatt
act Hdss clutch
Tomei elbow
aem wideband
New cas
and more my ultimate goal is around 380+/- and I'm thinking these cams might be too small for the goal I have but I don't want to shift the power band to far towards the top end because I want to drift it do you guys feel like these would be enough to match the rest of the set up or should I go bigger?

[white_lightning240]

I didn't know the stock cams could handle that much haha from what I learned from this thread trying to match upgrades makes sense and makes power and efficiency if I did Di New ones I'd only go to a 264. I don't have an upgraded throttle body, I was considering a q45, but I thought I had read that a throttle body or throttle body spacer moved the powerband towards top end. but it didn't make sense to me. thank you guys for the info I will definitely look into era-1, I sent them an email today about the tb also I like the handbrake they have!

[Mile High Silvia]

Originally Posted by white_lightning240

I didn't know the stock cams could handle that much haha from what I learned from this thread trying to match upgrades makes sense and makes power and efficiency if I did Di New ones I'd only go to a 264. I don't have an upgraded throttle body, I was considering a q45, but I thought I had read that a throttle body or throttle body spacer moved the powerband towards top end. but it didn't make sense to me. thank you guys for the info I will definitely look into era-1, I sent them an email today about the tb also I like the handbrake they have!

You may want to think about a staggered set of Cams. Seems to be popular right now and that's what I've always run on my vw vr6 turbo engines. Shit makes sense. Great spool and top end. I'm sticking with stock cams for now.

[aga]

Originally Posted by Mile High Silvia

ill be doing a full write up and diy guide for anyone that wants to install their own kit. i searched around and didn't find much info on meth'd srs until i found this thread. i think it could help a lot of the younger crowd keep their motors together. many people on here(not saying anyone in this thread) running lack luster tunes on a high performance motor. methanol should help "buffer" a shitty tune pretty well. may not be the best route to take when it comes to tuning but can't deny those cold ait's and more fuel for about $200 bucks.

thanks for the info. ive been wanting to get a decent water meth kit for my car but more important stuff always want my wallet. so im gonna be shopping for a midrange aquamist kit, what i wanted to ask you is, do you do your own tune? i have a power fc which i tune myself, how much timing did you add, and in the knock prone areas (near max torque) , did you manage to keep ignition consistent? what AFR do you see , and is the wideband's display accurate with all those things going in and out of the engine?

my setup is 2871r, s15 injectors probably will upgrade to nismo 740, z32afr , built engine. only boosting 0.6-0.7 due to actuator issues

[Mile High Silvia]

Originally Posted by aga

thanks for the info. ive been wanting to get a decent water meth kit for my car but more important stuff always want my wallet. so im gonna be shopping for a midrange aquamist kit, what i wanted to ask you is, do you do your own tune? i have a power fc which i tune myself, how much timing did you add, and in the knock prone areas (near max torque) , did you manage to keep ignition consistent? what AFR do you see , and is the wideband's display accurate with all those things going in and out of the engine?

my setup is 2871r, s15 injectors probably will upgrade to nismo 740, z32afr , built engine. only boosting 0.6-0.7 due to actuator issues

Aquamist makes some amazing products! I was going to buy an aqua kit but I already had this snow performance kit laying around from a previous project it never got installed on. My car is only tuned for pump gas to about 16psi on tomei 550cc injectors and a walbro 255. Had the tune done locally but I will not be tuning for the water meth because if something fails I still want enough fuel to supply the motor. I'm only using it for the cooling/cleaning benefits but I did turn the boost up slightly to 18psi. No wideband hooked up yet, have one sitting here just been lazy. Just make sure you get a really good meth kit if you are going to tune for it. Say something like a nozzle clogs, you hit full boost, pop goes your motor at that point. I'm super anal about iats so when I hit the track I bring my plant sprayer filled with ice water and soak down the intercooler and rad between every pass or drift laps. I'm not a person who likes to blow motors up so I take small precautions.

[aga]

doesnt the snow performance kit have any failsafes? i thought about failsafes on mine , since aquamist has them, will work like this:

i will have the map over 1 bar tuned for water meth, and below 0.8 without. i will set the actuator's mechanical pressure at 0.8, and connect a relay from the failsafe to the boost controller's solenoid. if the failsafe turns on, it will cut power to the boost control solenoid, thus turning the boost to low, where engine is tuned safely.

[Mile High Silvia]

Side note: s13 has now hit 13.3 with a 2.1 60' and .2xxet. Still alot of room for improvement.
If it seems slow its because Bandimeres elevation is 6,000 something feet above sea level. The track is literally on the side of a mountain. It's pretty bad ass.

Gonna fix an exhaust leak and some boost leaks then hit the track again for some more passes.

[Mile High Silvia]

Originally Posted by aga

doesnt the snow performance kit have any failsafes? i thought about failsafes on mine , since aquamist has them, will work like this:

i will have the map over 1 bar tuned for water meth, and below 0.8 without. i will set the actuator's mechanical pressure at 0.8, and connect a relay from the failsafe to the boost controller's solenoid. if the failsafe turns on, it will cut power to the boost control solenoid, thus turning the boost to low, where engine is tuned safely.

No fail safes on my kit as all it is a pressure switch, relay and an arming switch. Haven't wired in the solenoid yet, was just going to get a check valve. ill be checking the system today to make sure it's not clogged. As long as you run an inline filter you shouldn't run into any problems. Get a spare nozzle of whatever size you need so you can easily swap them out when one needs cleaned.

My kit can be pieced together for less than $200

[derass]

Can we make 400 whp, stock cams, on pump gas and no meth? Or does it require 20+ psi, lots of timing and higher octane/charge cooling?

[Mile High Silvia]

Originally Posted by derass

Can we make 400 whp, stock cams, on pump gas and no meth?

Yes, but depends on your turbo and tuning. Charge cooling is just a bonus

[e1_griego]

Stock cams will not get you to 400whp.

[Mile High Silvia]

so a gt35r at ~20psi wouldn't get you 400hp on stock cams? i think it would

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Mile High Silvia

so a gt35r at ~20psi wouldn't get you 400hp on stock cams? i think it would

Sure, but this the GT2871 thread...

[aga]

yeah but the water meth flow is constant while the aquamist taps into the injectors' pulse thus keeping the mixture relevant to the fuel injection... plus its got a nice gauge

that mountainside track you say...is it downhill or uphill? :P

[Mile High Silvia]

Originally Posted by S14DB

Sure, but this the GT2871 thread...

ahh yes, my bad i will try to stay on topic.

Originally Posted by aga

yeah but the water meth flow is constant while the aquamist taps into the injectors' pulse thus keeping the mixture relevant to the fuel injection... plus its got a nice gauge

that mountainside track you say...is it downhill or uphill? :P

yea their kits are the best bang for your buck without a doubt when it comes to "safe" methanol injection and flow metering. the pumps they supply will also run 100% methanol too.

mountain side track is called Bandimere Speedway in Morrison, CO. its horizontal on the mountain, looks like it goes slightly downhill but it doesn't.

[aga]

Originally Posted by Mile High Silvia

ahh yes, my bad i will try to stay on topic.
looks like it goes slightly downhill but it doesn't.

just kidding mate

[ultimateirving]

IACV is an issue if you idle is dropping below 500 and trying to die. Make sure it is powered and connected. Also they seem to be quite prone to sticking. So if any residue gets inside.. you need to take it off and clean the bejezus out of it.
As for the issue with running lean, i read the other reply, and i have no experience with burning out ECU.

But if you have consult port hooked up, maybe you could run a log and see if the timing is actually being retarded.

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

guys, bit of odd trouble with my setup, looking for some input.

SR, 2871, 740cc, N62, RS-Enthalpy tune, yadda yadda

car cranks up and idles fine. revs up and down fine. idle settles out to 13:1 or so AFRs. base timing is set to ~20ish, as best i can get it with the TPS unplugged and such. fuel pressure is at 3 bar where it should be. boost leak test showed no leaks. BOV flange is blocked off (so no release to atmosphere). no ignition break up issues. no ECU codes thrown. all seems fine and dandy.

but (1) it feels a bit sluggish during hard driving, as if the ECU is pulling too much timing as it climbs in RPMs. (2) response is hesitant during quick shifts. and (3) when i drive it (i.e. when it sees load) and i clutch in, the idle drops to 500ish and tries to die (usually doing so). if i clutch in and feather the throttle, i can keep it alive and after 10 secs or so i can ease off the throttle and it'll idle fine again, blips revs and all.

it doesn't seem to be fuel or spark... base timing is a tad advanced (~20 instead of ~15) but otherwise seems fine, at least at idle. no codes thrown. i'm baffled. any ideas would be greatly appreciated.


EDIT: got the timing nailed down in the 15-17 range. the car still feels a little sluggish and the AFR only drops to ~13 when i get into boost. i'm out of ideas on why i'm running lean in boost. no post MAF leaks, fuel pressure is set correctly, no ECU codes.

[SlideOrDie831]

Originally Posted by derass

Can we make 400 whp, stock cams, on pump gas and no meth? Or does it require 20+ psi, lots of timing and higher octane/charge cooling?

you'll need cams to reach that.

maybe better off hitting 400 wheel with a GTX28 on stock cams?

[Mile High Silvia]

Originally Posted by aga

just kidding mate

No worries. You'd laugh if you saw the track tho cuz it does appear to be going downhill when you look down the strip

[jaysgottaredtop]

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

IACV is an issue if you idle is dropping below 500 and trying to die. Make sure it is powered and connected. Also they seem to be quite prone to sticking. So if any residue gets inside.. you need to take it off and clean the bejezus out of it.
As for the issue with running lean, i read the other reply, and i have no experience with burning out ECU.

But if you have consult port hooked up, maybe you could run a log and see if the timing is actually being retarded.

cleaning the IACV out wouldn't be too hard, i'll give that a shot if it keeps giving me grief.

i think my main issue is my fuel pump wiring. i never rewired until now, and apparently a lot of people have issues getting enough fuel with stock wiring. i followed this (but with less ghettoness):
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=59949

i'll try to take it out in the next day or two and see if that helps the lean in boost issue.

[AsleepAltima]

Originally Posted by jaysgottaredtop

cleaning the IACV out wouldn't be too hard, i'll give that a shot if it keeps giving me grief.

i think my main issue is my fuel pump wiring. i never rewired until now, and apparently a lot of people have issues getting enough fuel with stock wiring. i followed this (but with less ghettoness):
www.ka-t.org • View topic - How to rewire your fuel pump for max efficiency!

i'll try to take it out in the next day or two and see if that helps the lean in boost issue.

It's an easy check - check the voltage with the engine at idle. If it's running 11volts - that wiring is shit. I had the same issue with running lean, wired in a relay directly from the battery to jump the voltage and it was literally night and day. The idle jumped up, air/fuel ratio changed and the voltage was rock steady alternator voltage.

[derass]

My datalogs show my 52 Trim .64 A/R, hitting my full 15 PSI at 4200 RPM. I have read in here of people hitting full boost sooner, ie. under 4k. What can be done to improve this? Is a matter of more timing advance in that range? AFR closer to stoich? Still using internal wastegate.