*Ask Broadfield*

[Minz]

Hey Broadfield, I was wondering how you would fix scratching and minor gouges on the plastic headlamp surround for 180sx's. Filler and painting stages would be awesome.

I can try get some pics if need be.

Cheers bro.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by Minz

Hey Broadfield, I was wondering how you would fix scratching and minor gouges on the plastic headlamp surround for 180sx's. Filler and painting stages would be awesome.

I can try get some pics if need be.

Cheers bro.

You would wet sand and polish. So you would start with whatever grit of sandpaper the gouges/scratches dictate, then work your way up to 2000 grit. So lets say they are pretty deep, then you may need to start with 400 grit... then 600, 800, 1200, 1500 and finish with 2000. You will then need to do the same thing with rubbing compounds and polish. I use four stages of the Pinnacle XMT: #4, #3, #2 and finish with #1.

[jewlz]

can xrps' push on and xr31 be used interchangeably since they have the same core hose(*CPE=Chlorinated polyethylene)? it seems they should be, and i've seen kits like chase bays fuel line kit that uses hose finishers(worm clamps) on earls nylon an line similar to xr31.
http://www.chasebays.com/brands/chas...a24de--sr20det

basically can you use clamps on the xr31?

thanks in advance

[fliprayzin240sx]

I bought a generic plastic gauge holder for my dash. Issue is its flat and the S14 dash has slight curve on it. Heating it with a heat gun should make it maleable enough right?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by jewlz

can xrps' push on and xr31 be used interchangeably since they have the same core hose(*CPE=Chlorinated polyethylene)? it seems they should be, and i've seen kits like chase bays fuel line kit that uses hose finishers(worm clamps) on earls nylon an line similar to xr31.
Chase Bays AN Fuel Line Kit - Nissan 240sx w/ KA24DE | SR20DET : Chase Bays - ChaseBays.com

basically can you use clamps on the xr31?

thanks in advance

Let me first start off by saying that XRP clearly states that only the Push-On hose is compatible with the Push-On hose ends. Taken directly from their catalog:

"...these hose ends are ONLY compatible with our Push-On Hose, NOT the Stainless Steel Braided Hose or XR-31 Hose."

Now I know that doesn't answer your question directly, but it is worth noting. So onto your question, I'm not sure!?! I assume you could get the hose finisher to work just fine given that the pressure being ran through the hose wasn't really high. I'm personally not a fan of hose finishers... kind of defeats the purpose of going AN. There's always a way to convert every fitting to AN... whether it's tapping something out to an NPT thread or welding on an AN male or female bung etc.

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

I bought a generic plastic gauge holder for my dash. Issue is its flat and the S14 dash has slight curve on it. Heating it with a heat gun should make it maleable enough right?

Yes, depending on the type of plastic, you may need to heat it for a while with direct heat from a heat gun. If the foot print of the gauge pod is large then it may be cumbersome to get the entire foot print all heated up evenly at the same time.

What I would recommend though is to cover the area of the dash board where the pod is going with really good blue masking tape. You will need to clean it with Windex or the like to make sure there is no dash protectant on there. This way you can heat the pod really good and then slap it on the dash really quick where you want it. Apply a lot of pressure while the plastic cools and then it will hold it's shape. The masking tape is simply to protect your dash from the heat of the warm plastic pod as it cools down.

[fliprayzin240sx]

Sweet, thanks for the tip Toby...

[inopsey]

you mentioned earlier that you need a roller to install the second skin product. is this to remove any air pockets when putting it down? what does the roller look like and sell for? is there anything else i can use for the install ?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by inopsey

you mentioned earlier that you need a roller to install the second skin product. is this to remove any air pockets when putting it down? what does the roller look like and sell for? is there anything else i can use for the install ?

The roller is used to better adhere the Second Skin to the surface you are putting it on. It enables you to apply a lot of pressure quickly. The better the Second Skin is applied, the better it works. The roller is like a narrow ink roller. Or a roller that is used for laminating. Also make sure you clean the metal or plastic that the Second Skin is going on. It doesn't need to be perfect, but a quick wipe down with some thinner will help get dust and grime off.

This would work great:

Beno J Gundlach J200B 1-1/2" x 3" Black J Roller for Plastic Laminate






I also stock/sell this kit for $19

Stinger Electronics | Product Details

[godrifttoday]

How can I take off the yellowing from my headlights? What sand paper and wax u recommend?

[dragonbreath]

This thread is awesome! Mr Broadfield you have incredible work and I give you major props for what you do. Ill be referring back to this thread on some future projects lol.

[RB180sxChris]

hey bro just wondering what are the BEST speakers that I can put in my s14 that hit hard without having to put subs in my car? thanks

[PureRush]

I wanna run AN lines for my PCV to my valve cover to a catch can. What size and style AN lines should I use? I am going to weld the fittings on the valve cover. Also do I need vacuum from the catch can to the intake?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

How can I take off the yellowing from my headlights? What sand paper and wax u recommend?

You can probably get by with just doing a 4 step buff/polish.

I like #4, #3, #2 and #1 in the Pinnacle XMT series.

Originally Posted by dragonbreath

This thread is awesome! Mr Broadfield you have incredible work and I give you major props for what you do. Ill be referring back to this thread on some future projects lol.

Thank you sir!

Originally Posted by RB180sxChris

hey bro just wondering what are the BEST speakers that I can put in my s14 that hit hard without having to put subs in my car? thanks

Any stage from Hybrid Audio. Are you going to be running an amplifier to them? Let me know and I'll shoot you some prices on speakers.

Originally Posted by PureRush

I wanna run AN lines for my PCV to my valve cover to a catch can. What size and style AN lines should I use? I am going to weld the fittings on the valve cover. Also do I need vacuum from the catch can to the intake?

I would use -10 hose/fittings. Type of hose won't matter: stainless, nylon, push-on, nomex etc. You do not need a line to the intake. Maybe figure out what angle of fittings you will need and then I can start quoting you XRP prices.

[Ros7.exe]

Hey man was gonna PM you but found this thread

Ok so had a buddy of mine install my viper alarm

Works fine locks doors up and unlocks fine
shock sensor works
Remote start dosnt but dont need it

now while driving it blinks 3 times
while off but DISARMED blinks 3 shorts pause then 2 short times
while ARMED blinks constaly as normal

funny thing when i disarm the car 2 way pager says the shock senor went off and a door was opened

any help?!

NOTE hood pin is not connected and dash is completely off so i have no interior pieces

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by ReneRos92

Hey man was gonna PM you but found this thread

Ok so had a buddy of mine install my viper alarm

Works fine locks doors up and unlocks fine
shock sensor works
Remote start dosnt but dont need it

now while driving it blinks 3 times
while off but DISARMED blinks 3 shorts pause then 2 short times
while ARMED blinks constaly as normal

funny thing when i disarm the car 2 way pager says the shock senor went off and a door was opened

any help?!

NOTE hood pin is not connected and dash is completely off so i have no interior pieces

Hook up the heavy gauge pink wire from the Viper... which is ignition input/output. While the heavy gauge pink wire outputs for remote start, it also senses ignition input which resets the LED trigger diagnostics. So that LED will continue to flash until that pink wire sees power. Once you have the pink wire hooked to ignition then the LED will reset every time you turn the key on.

[delado]

Broadfield,

I'm in the market for an in-dash for my Kouki.

Which one would you recommend? I don't care about navigation/CDs/USB ports

As long as it has an AUX I'm happy.

Also, do you have a website or something where I can find your rates? I want to get my gauge cluster redone.

[Ros7.exe]

Ok so for the H3 Harness I dont need anything but the Pink Wire hooked up?

Dont want remote start.

[Ros7.exe]

[DUDEIDONTHAVEA240]

Broadfield.
What crimpers would you recommend for making non insulated crimps without spending over 60$$? I see a lot of ratcheting style with different dies but they always seem to cost over 100$.

Also im curious if you be familiar with power and groud distribution when installing a aftermarket EMS. If so could you take a look and see what you think about this? I'm installing a wolf v500 and unfortunately there's very scarce info.
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/8603/photo2eblu.jpg

Thanks

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by delado

Broadfield,

I'm in the market for an in-dash for my Kouki.

Which one would you recommend? I don't care about navigation/CDs/USB ports

As long as it has an AUX I'm happy.

You could just do the CDE-121 then. You can find pricing in my signature. Please let me know if you have any questions on the units.

Originally Posted by delado

Also, do you have a website or something where I can find your rates? I want to get my gauge cluster redone.

Did you click the link in my signature? It has generic pricing for cluster work. If you want to post in the that thread, with exactly what you want done, I can give you a quote.

Originally Posted by ReneRos92

Ok so for the H3 Harness I dont need anything but the Pink Wire hooked up?

Dont want remote start.

Correct! But if you want the starter kill feature to function then you need to cut your OEM starter wire in the ignition harness and use the violet and green wires in the H3 harness to interrupt it. Let me know if you want to hook the feature up.

P.S. Your buddy should never install another alarm... I hope to God he doesn't install for a living.

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by DUDEIDONTHAVEA240

Broadfield.
What crimpers would you recommend for making non insulated crimps without spending over 60$$? I see a lot of ratcheting style with different dies but they always seem to cost over 100$.

Also im curious if you be familiar with power and groud distribution when installing a aftermarket EMS. If so could you take a look and see what you think about this? I'm installing a wolf v500 and unfortunately there's very scarce info.
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/8603/photo2eblu.jpg

Thanks

What are you crimping and what size gauge? I use five different crimpers at work depending on what I'm crimping.

I'll look over your schematic as soon as I get a moment.

[DUDEIDONTHAVEA240]

I'm mostly crimping non insulated 22-10 gauge wire. I will do some open barrel stuff. I was actually looking at snap ons PWC48. What crimpers are you using?

[Ros7.exe]

Lolyeah i saw the work and i was like omg i cleaned it up

it was eitger 30 bucks from my buddy or 120 at a shop

[Ros7.exe]

Ok so the purple and green wires go to black and white from the ignition harness correct?

and as far as all the red ones go from H3 Harness shouldnt they be connected? Read somewhere all reds should always be connected

[Ros7.exe]

This is how i did the Pink wire to black and red


now here are the reds im talking about

[Ros7.exe]

Also car died once after installing the H3 Pink wire to Black/Red ignition wire. Its only happened once so maybe I left something on and this happen not sure though. Maybe you have some advice?

* never mind just jumped the car and the over head lights where on maybe thats the reason*

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by DUDEIDONTHAVEA240

I'm mostly crimping non insulated 22-10 gauge wire. I will do some open barrel stuff. I was actually looking at snap ons PWC48. What crimpers are you using?

For open barrel I use these:

MC93150 OPEN BARREL CRIMPING TOOL | Matco Tools



For light crimping I use these... they are small, but I don't really use them that often:

PWCS7, Wire Stripper/Crimper/Cutter, 7"



For Insulated 22-10 I use these:

TCT11A Wire Crimping Tools | Matco Tools



For 8-4 I use these:

PWC30, Pliers, Terminal Crimping, 10 1/4"




For 1/0-4/0 I use these: I actually bought them from Snap-On, but I can't find them on their site.

FTZ Industries Heavy Duty Crimp Tool

Originally Posted by ReneRos92

Ok so the purple and green wires go to black and white from the ignition harness correct?

and as far as all the red ones go from H3 Harness shouldnt they be connected? Read somewhere all reds should always be connected

You will cut the black/white wire at the ignition harness. You will then wire the green wire to the key side and the violet wire to the starter side.

You only need the heavy gauge red wires if you are doing remote start.

[Ros7.exe]

Ok thanks alot boss
what would i wire the red ones too?

[Broadfield]

Originally Posted by ReneRos92

Ok thanks alot boss
what would i wire the red ones too?

The large white wire at the ignition harness.

[Ros7.exe]

nice ok oill try it once i get home from work

and for the h2 wires what do i gotta wire for those?

sorry for bugging so muchj