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#3723 |
Users Awaiting Email Confirmation
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#3727 |
Zilvia Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bowling Green, Ky
Age: 38
Posts: 266
Trader Rating: (2)
![]() Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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Wheel/tire setup: Front fenders pulled pretty decently. Rear is the same way.
-Advan TCIII wheels Front: 18x9''+25mm with 10mm spacer. Rear:18x10''+35mm -Falken RT615K tires, square setup: 275/35/R18 ![]() ![]() |
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#3728 |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maricopa, AZ
Age: 34
Posts: 7,721
Trader Rating: (10)
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Man I'm surprised that 295 on the 11j still looks stretched at the sidewall haha.
Do you think a 295/40 would have the same fitment on a 17x11 as the 295/30 on 18x11? |
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#3729 |
Leaky Injector
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It'll depend on the tire manufacturer more than anything. Nt05s run kind of narrow but an RS-3 runs a bit wide (I think).
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#3730 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Maximum TIRE(Rubber) fitment thread
I picked up a set of Konig Hypergrams recently since they look pretty good, weigh very little, don't cost much and have at least some semblance of quality control.
These are 18x10.5 +25 with 315/35 R888s. To keep the S15 HLSD and add more beef, but pay about 1/2 total of what DSS axels cost, I went with 350z axels which, with the adaptors will add a little more than an inch in length & track width from stock. So these wheels stick out that extra ~1.1" more than most. These wheels/tires would probably clear ok with a pretty big fender pull and to save the factory fenders, I decided to pull the fenders and will rivet on these free fender flares (I've never been a fan of them, but they actually go pretty well). My front 17x9 +25 still fit within the fenders so I don't see much use for discussion there. I'm running between -1.7* of camber all around. For an extra $3-4,000, I could've achieved better fitment and maybe more axel strength, but I'm about to be a Dad so that'd be silly. For all that money, maybe in a few years, I could probably squeeze in a +40 18x12 with a 335 tire since there's a fair amount of space left for more wheel/tire inward toward the spring now. Hopefully these 315s will be plenty sticky on the street and at the track though LoL. Adding about 4" of width to the rear of the car will be interesting on track once the weather clears up. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#3734 | |
Zilvia Addict
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 950
Trader Rating: (7)
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Quote:
You're going to install flares over the pulled fenders? Why? It won't gain you any clearance. Either leave the pulled quarter panel as-is, or install the rivets and cut out all the metal underneath.
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#3735 |
Zilvia Junkie
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I'm not hacking apart a factory fender and welding it back together then filling/paint/etc when I only need a bit of extra clearance for the tire to miss the fender, so a bit of pull to help the fender flare will be sufficient. If I change wheels/tires in the future, I'm not married to this fender flare or over fenders.
The multi-link arms need to accommodate whatever length axel you have (shorter or longer) unless you want a binded 350z axel. The 350z axels need more physical space than the s14 axels do so all the arms push the hub outward, hence this rather excessive fitment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#3736 |
Zilvia Addict
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Greensboro, NC
Posts: 950
Trader Rating: (7)
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1) Slapping a flare above your pulled quarter will not gain you any tire clearance.
2) You don't want to cut the factory quarter... but you're cool with pulling the piss out of it, and then drilling holes to rivet on a flare?
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#3738 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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The car isn't slammed and the tires will only barely touch the fender now so a little pull would be enough to clear the tires and welding a couple little holes shut later would be easy. |
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#3740 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Maximum TIRE(Rubber) fitment thread
I'll have to measure to be exact, but there's about an inch between the tire and spring now so maybe +30, but it's not something I'm very interested in. I'm sure the longer axels are key.
Last edited by 600supersport; 03-30-2017 at 11:09 PM.. |
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#3742 | |
Post Whore!
![]() Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Independence, Ore.
Age: 40
Posts: 2,722
Trader Rating: (24)
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Quote:
Works on stock bodied hatch and coupe if you don't go crazy on offsets. I'm at 17x9 +22 in front, 17x9.5 +38 in back. 9.5 +38 also works all the way around with a spacer in front. -3.5* F, -1.5*ish R for camber. |
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#3743 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Queens, NY
Age: 33
Posts: 84
Trader Rating: (3)
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Posted on the Zenki thread but decided to show some love in here as well.
18x9 +20 255/35/18 all around ![]()
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![]() Last edited by Mintyboy; 03-23-2017 at 09:26 PM.. Reason: Forgot to post specs |
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#3745 |
Post Whore!
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Typically, you'd run into issues with the LCA before the spring.
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#3747 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Maximum TIRE(Rubber) fitment thread
I'll be sure to measure next time exactly how much space is left. Last edited by 600supersport; 03-24-2017 at 08:32 PM.. |
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#3750 | |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Age: 35
Posts: 93
Trader Rating: (0)
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Never seen a wheel run into the rlca , mine use to hit my coilover when it would gain camber when it pushed up. Plus how his rlca is adjustable (knuckle side) it pushes the wheel away from where it could possibly hit it, it will probably hit the coilover first since that is fixed the knuckle.
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