Great news to those Die Hard "KA24"ers. Tomei imports a US 240sx for KA24 Development

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by silviaks2nr

Cast turbo manifold on KA is really meh. The top end just sucks. These motors really wake up with short intake runners/large plenum, equal length turbo manifold, and a properly sized turbo; however. I guess it's an okay option for those wanting about 300hp but leaves little room for upgrading later on.

You can fit a 7163 to one of these, which mean 500+whp. Anyone wanting to make more than that isn't even considering this manifold.

Originally Posted by KAT-PWR

Does BC sell a FCW for non stroker? jesus for the price of the crank you could put two fully built ka's together with an ATI super damper.

Not anymore. The crank and stroker kit are discontinued. Also, 8500rpm is attainable on the stock crank with an ATI damper.

Originally Posted by turbo2nr

In for a fully c.w. crank and some real cams, lets get a ka to rev and make power to 9,500rpms

9500 is silly. Not only is it ridiculously high piston speed, but you'd have to cut the crap out of the head to fit cams big enough to hold power out to that rpm. The KA literally screams torque, let it do it's thing. Long strokes spool turbos well.

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

Look at the Honda K series or the 4g63. When you build a robust block, a good girdle, and a proper crank a long stroke isn't too much of an issue.

The KA has the block and girdle already.

Honda K-series bottom ends are massively superior to the 4G or KA bottoms. These engines designed in the late 80's aren't that great, but we've found ways to push them hard. Luckily the KA's oil pump is pretty awesome, which keeps these engines together.

[kingkilburn]

KAs running those pulleys don't last long at those RPMs. Those pulleys on fully balanced cranks might be the ticket.

[superdorifto]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

KAs running those pulleys don't last long at those RPMs. Those pulleys on fully balanced cranks might be the ticket.

How's that? Mine loves to rev with its ati. At 7500 right now, and the only issue stopping us from raising the limit to 8500 is a little valve float. Have a built head going together fit the winter to fix that.

With the ati, and a gtx3071, the old redline whips by even on a stock head and cams.

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

KAs running those pulleys don't last long at those RPMs. Those pulleys on fully balanced cranks might be the ticket.

Define "long". It all depends on how it's used. Obviously setting your rev limit at 8500 and banging it in a drift car is far different than a drag or street car. Road racing is probably the hardest on engines if you have a gearbox that keeps the R's up everywhere on track.

kedbmx on kat.org has been running 800+whp and 8500 rpm for the last four years in his street car.

[kingkilburn]

All those nasty jumprope harmonics are still there. The damper is absorbing some of the vibration and canceling out some of the other.

My preference would be to totally eliminate the jumprope harmonics rather than mask or redirect them.


Checkout this thread(and forum in general) http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=3805

[kingkilburn]

And I'm talking about sustained high RPM not the occasional limiter hit as you go through the gears.

[mau5trap]

I want that exhaust mani

[PoorMans180SX]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

And I'm talking about sustained high RPM not the occasional limiter hit as you go through the gears.

Well maybe you can get BC to make you a crank, but they're discontinued on the site.

[kingkilburn]

They're all over the internet for about $1700 for the crank and around $3400 for the crank, rods, and pistons. They made a few hundred and seemingly sold them all to retailers.

[Matej]

When you need an aftermarket crank to use a motor for what you want to use it for then that motor is probably not the best choice for your desired application. Unless you are a factory sponsored race team.

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by Matej

When you need an aftermarket crank to use a motor for what you want to use it for then that motor is probably not the best choice for your desired application. Unless you are a factory sponsored race team.

Bingo.

Motors fail. I'd rather not be up shits creek when I lose one.

[drunkmunky]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

And is there any debate over which is better?

This is my crank from... 5-6 years ago.
still haven't gotten a chance to finish the engine. The short block is sitting next to my monitor as I type. Even with the knife edge... I can't run the oem oil squirters.. Might try GTR dual squirters...

[Toaster]

In the Miata world, they are getting rid of squirters to accommodate beefier pistons. Flyin Miata for more info.

They believe the windage and consumption pose more of a problem then they are worth.

In the D series Honda world, they are incorporated into the stock rod design, and excluded in aftermarket builds.

The BC crank does not appear to be worth the fuss, what about the front sprocket anyway?

The KA is a lot like the 7M, which are both a lot like Honda D series engines.

[kingkilburn]

Maybe it's my background in old American muscle and trucks but a crank swap isn't s big deal to me. If you're willing to change out the entire induction setup on a turbo engine why not the rotating assembly too?

[KAT-PWR]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

Maybe it's my background in old American muscle and trucks but a crank swap isn't s big deal to me. If you're willing to change out the entire induction setup on a turbo engine why not the rotating assembly too?

Don't you have to machine the block for clearance? And as the previous guy mentioned there is some sort of squirter issue?
I'm sure after all that the cost vs. benefit really goes out the window.

[kingkilburn]

You have to clearance the block for the extra counter weights. Not a huge issue. Oil squirters are perhaps not an issue depending on a given build and the builders ingenuity.

[Corbic]

Originally Posted by kingkilburn

Maybe it's my background in old American muscle and trucks but a crank swap isn't s big deal to me. If you're willing to change out the entire induction setup on a turbo engine why not the rotating assembly too?

It's a cost issue.

Doing crank swaps on Domestics is typically cheap. A Ford SVT 5.4 Forged Crank is $400.

My issue is, when you dump tons of money into and engine, what are you really accomplishing?

My "built" dream Ford 4.6 2V is $1,900 for a 800whp capable motor. If that motor takes a shit, I'm potentially out $1,900.

If I build a "dream KA", with forged internals, crank, machine work, cams etc, it's sounding more like a $7k engine. If that pukes, I'm out $7k and that hurts.

This goes back to that comment "if your swapping cranks, you have to wrong motor".

If you want an engine that Revs to 9k with 2.4L of displacement, swap a K24.

If you want a 3L iron block 500lb boat anchor that will make 4-digits, get a 2JZ.

[FaLKoN240]

How did we go from talking about bolt on turbo kits to crank swaps and all sorts of crazy shit.

This thread is totally not about that. AT ALL.

[fatduece]

Corbic, tighten up your slack jaw. We don't want to hear about your hillbilly swaps

[kingkilburn]

If we were concerned about money we wouldn't be in the hobby or business of modifying cars in the first place. It's a passion exercise not a cost benefit analysis.

Props to Tomei for keeping the passion burning.

[zerodameaon]

How is a crank swap not relevant? It is something that would really make that bolt on turbo worth the money...

[kingkilburn]

Turbos want revvs and the oem crank doesn't have them to give.

[sil80takashi]

bump this thread



more info here

[turboshoebox]

That Xcesscive budget intake manifold is never very jdm...

[Matej]

Originally Posted by turboshoebox

That Xcesscive budget intake manifold is never very jdm...

This. Plus you can totally tell that car is not really JDM because it is left-hand drive.

[caglej]

Why would they develop a motor with parts meant for a RHD chassis when the motor was most commonly found in a LHD chassis.....

[fatduece]

Originally Posted by caglej

Why would they develop a motor with parts meant for a RHD chassis when the motor was most commonly found in a LHD chassis.....

You know jimmy, sometimes people think they are doing something good just as long as something is done. All you people in here wasting your damn time with this truck motor. This sh8ts trash. Take it out and either sr20 or jz. DONE.

[SoundEfx]

Originally Posted by fatduece

You know jimmy, sometimes people think they are doing something good just as long as something is done. All you people in here wasting your damn time with this truck motor. This sh8ts trash. Take it out and either sr20 or jz. DONE.

( No sarcasm )
What makes the SR better than the KA, is it the aftermarket support?

KA
Max Power: 155hp @ 5,600rpm
Max Torque: 160lb-ft @ 4,400rpm

SR
Maximum power: 140 hp-169 hp at 6400 rpm
Maximum torque: 132 lb·ft at 4800 rpm

Also, according to this site, the 'pros' seem to prefer the KA or acknowledges that it has potential.

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how...issan-sr20det/

[FaLKoN240]

I have a KA-T and would go SR if I had the choice between an equally modified motor. Even if it had less power.

[kashira kureijii]

Originally Posted by turboshoebox

That Xcesscive budget intake manifold is never very jdm...

Originally Posted by Matej

This. Plus you can totally tell that car is not really JDM because it is left-hand drive.

nothing gets past inspector detector

hahahaha awesome

obviously someone with a KA isn't really concerned about those jdm sweg brake caliper points shuebox-kun