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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series.


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Old 07-08-2014, 09:19 AM   #4111
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So maybe my question was a bit vague, so I'll reword it:

I saw a guy running a "flywheel adapter" as such on a 2JZ+CD00x: (small round piece within the blue adapter)


I was wondering what you guys are running for the flywheel and/or adapting the flywheel to fit. If the flywheel is a "custom" piece, where are you guys getting it besides @Maverick? (http://www.maverick-motorsports.com/...-adapter-plate)
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Old 07-08-2014, 03:09 PM   #4112
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2JZGTE Swapped S-Chassis thread

Finally got a couple pics of the CX cable bracket


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Old 07-08-2014, 03:20 PM   #4113
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Yo my bracket didn't line up worth shit on my non vvti 2jz! I have one of these for sale if anyone wants it for their 2JZ VVTI







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Old 07-09-2014, 08:08 AM   #4114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babowc View Post
So maybe my question was a bit vague, so I'll reword it:

I saw a guy running a "flywheel adapter" as such on a 2JZ+CD00x: (small round piece within the blue adapter)


I was wondering what you guys are running for the flywheel and/or adapting the flywheel to fit. If the flywheel is a "custom" piece, where are you guys getting it besides @Maverick? (http://www.maverick-motorsports.com/...-adapter-plate)
there is no adapter plate, the kit that Collins Adapter sells the flywheel looks to be a 2jz flywheel but but with z33 pressure plate bolt pattern so any single plate z33 clutch on the market works.
as for the right spacing for the Throw out bearing to pressure plate he also includes a new throwout bearing housing that is longer.
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:27 AM   #4115
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Johan, is it the same thickness as a 2JZ flywheel or thicker like Maverick's fw?
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:33 AM   #4116
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Quote:
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Johan, is it the same thickness as a 2JZ flywheel or thicker like Maverick's fw?
pretty sure its an standard 2jz flywheel.
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Old 07-09-2014, 09:58 AM   #4117
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Quote:
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pretty sure its an standard 2jz flywheel.
Sorry to keep asking, but does it have dual patterns, then?
1 set for the 2JZ PP and another for the Z33 PP?
I assume the friction pad is the same size...
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:52 AM   #4118
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Hey guys, just wanted to chime in on my Maverick plate.

We use a CUSTOM thickness flywheel specifically designed to work with ANY 350z clutch.

The OEM 2jz flywheel is thinner than my setup. This causes the splines on the clutch disk to only ~ half engage. I wasn't too comfortable with that that is why my flywheel is thicker. It allows for full engagement of the splines and also places the TOB where it needs to be without over-extending it.

Hopefully that clears it up!

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Old 07-09-2014, 01:27 PM   #4119
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I've been looking at the Maverick JZ to VQ adapter full kit, and I was wondering where that would put the shifting placement inside the car, if it was too long the shifter would be in my console and that wouldn't be fun
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Old 07-09-2014, 03:44 PM   #4120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by george View Post
Hey guys, just wanted to chime in on my Maverick plate.

We use a CUSTOM thickness flywheel specifically designed to work with ANY 350z clutch.

The OEM 2jz flywheel is thinner than my setup. This causes the splines on the clutch disk to only ~ half engage. I wasn't too comfortable with that that is why my flywheel is thicker. It allows for full engagement of the splines and also places the TOB where it needs to be without over-extending it.

Hopefully that clears it up!

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PS. I bounce around forums so if you have some specific questions please email me for quickest response.
Is that even after you mill the bellhousing?
I thought the bellhousing was machined 3/8" or the thickness of the adapter so that the input shaft makes full contact with the pilot bearing & disc spline?
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Old 07-09-2014, 03:49 PM   #4121
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Anyone using a automatic swap?
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:17 PM   #4122
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Quote:
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Is that even after you mill the bellhousing?
I thought the bellhousing was machined 3/8" or the thickness of the adapter so that the input shaft makes full contact with the pilot bearing & disc spline?
You have to machine off 1/2in. Anything more than that then you just weaken the bellhousing mount points in my opinion.

*For anyone who is going with the z33 trans and tries to take the bellhousing off, there is another 12mm bolt that is hidden under the black cover that holds the bell housing on...wasted so much time because of not knowing that.
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:33 PM   #4123
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Quote:
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Is that even after you mill the bellhousing?
I thought the bellhousing was machined 3/8" or the thickness of the adapter so that the input shaft makes full contact with the pilot bearing & disc spline?
The milling is more for the input shaft.

But it also helps keep the flywheel from becoming even thicker than it needs to be.

There is a new shifter design that is being tested right now. It should place it in the OEM location.
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Old 07-09-2014, 07:19 PM   #4124
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Quote:
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There is a new shifter design that is being tested right now. It should place it in the OEM location.
Yyeeesss!! I will hold off on buying a shortened shifter housing/extension if it keeps me from cutting. I've only seen 2 setups that sit in stock location so far. One with reverse lockout and the other directly on the shifter rod without lockout.
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Old 07-10-2014, 10:29 AM   #4125
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Is this the one you are referring to?
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Old 07-10-2014, 10:37 AM   #4126
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^^^ Yes that's one and the other is with a vk56 s13. He used heim joints for his. (Here is the build if anyone likes looking at goodies http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=50721)



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Old 07-12-2014, 02:31 PM   #4127
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So I have a question I was hoping you guys could help me out with.. I purchased a vvti 1jz that I'm pretty sure came out of a Toyota Crown. I bought it before realizing it may or may not have an ignition immobilizer wired in.. so I guess my first question is:

Would anyone know what plug/wires to look for on a jzs171 or jzx110 ecu wiring harness?

And if it does turn out that it has the ignition immobilizer, would it be possible for me to buy an aftermarket push button start like these options:

http://m.aliexpress.com/item/1956779...bilesitedetail

http://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK104B.html

And then wipe the ecu immobilizer code and reset it with the aftermarket push button starts RFID code? I really hope this option will work because I wouldn't mind swapping it in..

Thanks for any help!

Tim
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Old 07-14-2014, 05:56 PM   #4128
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I hooked up the dakota box on my s14. my speedometer is still not working. power and ground are ok. theres a write up on here but it's for an s13 and he made his own harness.

I cut pin 26 wire (RED). I put one end which is the vss side to the input of the dakota box, the other end which is the cluster side i put it on output1. is this right?

transmission is an r154 which is a 3pin vss that has a sensor ground which i did not connect. do i have to connect that one for this to work?

thanks
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Old 07-14-2014, 06:02 PM   #4129
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diagram of how i did. is this correct?

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Old 07-15-2014, 12:18 PM   #4130
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nvm got it to work
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Old 07-15-2014, 02:58 PM   #4131
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yea you need the ground for the toyota sensor to work.

there should be two wires in the fuse box area that went to the old 2 wire nissan speed sensor.

toyota speed sensor is 3 wire
1 goes to the ground on the dakota unit
toyota vss output wire will go to one of the wires that was cut from the nissan sensor (I forget wire colour but it should output a 2.25V when the key is ON)
the other remaining wire from the nissan 2 wire vss plug does not get used if I remember correctly.
find a source from the fuse box area to wire switched 12v to your toyota vss


When you wire in the dakota all you need to do is intercept the toyota vvs output wire.
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Old 07-15-2014, 05:16 PM   #4132
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Quote:
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yea you need the ground for the toyota sensor to work.

there should be two wires in the fuse box area that went to the old 2 wire nissan speed sensor.

toyota speed sensor is 3 wire
1 goes to the ground on the dakota unit
toyota vss output wire will go to one of the wires that was cut from the nissan sensor (I forget wire colour but it should output a 2.25V when the key is ON)
the other remaining wire from the nissan 2 wire vss plug does not get used if I remember correctly.
find a source from the fuse box area to wire switched 12v to your toyota vss


When you wire in the dakota all you need to do is intercept the toyota vvs output wire.
I got all that. I'ts just frustrating that I thought I would be able to use either one of the nissan wires that goes to the speedo. Red wire didn't work, Red/yellow did.
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:49 AM   #4133
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Anyone whos running AEM V2 and the map sensor - where did you mount it? Pics?
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:55 PM   #4134
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Anyone whos running AEM V2 and the map sensor - where did you mount it? Pics?
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:06 PM   #4135
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Did you have to re-tap that hole?
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:40 PM   #4136
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Did you have to re-tap that hole?
Nope. I'm not sure what was there before though.
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:57 AM   #4137
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I'm running aem v2 with a map and had to re tap the hole for 1/8" npt. You just remove that round filter and re tap it for the map.
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Old 07-18-2014, 09:30 AM   #4138
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I'm running aem v2 with a map and had to re tap the hole for 1/8" npt. You just remove that round filter and re tap it for the map.
Sweet thanks man. I've got a 1/8" NPT tap here I'm going to try and run through the hole today
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:36 AM   #4139
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Ight guys I'm at wits end here trying to get my s14 2jz gte with stock twins to fit with the heater hoses hooked up as well. I have tried xcessive mounts, and ebay mounts and neither have enough room it appears to hook up heat. Xcessive says the mounts work with twins, but I don't think they will work either unless you guys have a solution.

Anyone know how this can work or anyone I can talk to who made this work? If so what mounts did you use? How did you manage the heater hoses?

Any help is appreciated.

I know it will easily fit if I go single, but i don't want single at this time. I also think I can make it work if I weld a forward extension on the xmember, but that is not going to be easy. Also, it might work if I push in the heator core spouts on the firewall while trying to bolt the engine up, but I'm scared it will break off the spouts

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Old 07-18-2014, 10:39 AM   #4140
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It was my understanding that you can't run heat on a s-chassis on stock twins. You can loop the heater hoses together and bypass the heater core in the car, but you obviously won't have a working heater.
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