Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[irax]

Originally Posted by shevinkool

Can I use a s14 exhaust on a s13? Please let me know, preferably by PM

Please ask your questions like this. TYPING IN ALL CAP, oR tYpInG LiK dIs.. is really annoying.

It is not a direct bolt on, but you can make it fit. If you have to ask how, then don't bother doing it.

[JKL1031]

Originally Posted by 180wanabe1

I'm assuming you have a sr/ca/ka or rb and if so yeah you can run it for a little bit without any of those belts on. the cam is ran off the timing belt behind the covers and the oil pump is drivin directly by the crank. but by ur limited knowledge of the belt layout i'm worried about what you think your accomplishing....

yes KA. I was reading in a book about checking for an internal leak by observing any bubbles in the rad. with the water pump undone. the escaping combustion gases would be the only thing responsible for any bubbles.

[sliddinsil8o]

I'm rewiring my chassis harness; I'm drawing out a wiring diagram and had a question regarding the front wipers. I drew up my setup without the time control unit and washer wiring. Question is, will I have the normal and fast function speeds still if I do not have the time control unit integrated?

[smoked240]

Originally Posted by 180wanabe1

you can still hook it up if its a cheapo gauge to the o2 input to the ecu. just look up the factory wiring diagram in the fsm. its not gonna be very acurate becuase narrowbands only work at wot pretty much.

Okay thanks. I know how inaccurate they are but the gauge is already there and hooked up along with the wire is ran right at the ecu. If the gauge wasn't mounted I wouldn't even bother. I plan to buy a wideband but that is for later.

[SuicidnS13]

Will the Medium Disk from SSR wheels clear my z32 calipers? Im about to order wheels and just want to make sure my wheels will clear my brakes. Thinking the 18 x 9.5 -3 MD disk for the fronts, just hoping they clear z32 calipers. I run standard calipers in the rear so IM going with 18 x 10.5 +5 SL disk. I want the most amount of lip possible with the offsets closest to what I want to run.

BTW Stock body S14 with a mild pull in the rear and roll in the front. Im always willing to pull more if needed.

[RedSiBaron]

in my s13 i get a chassis vibration noise in the rear now while engine braking...i just put in megan racing engine mounts and es subframe bushings in the rear, ive already re-torqued and checked the subframe nuts and the diff nuts/bolts...theres no play in the wheel bearings and doesnt seem side specific and all of suspension arms have been checked and torqued

Thoughts on what it could be?

[s14_sr20_silvia]

Is there any difference between the left and right Infiniti J30 axles?

If I go to o'reilly or somewhere to get them they all have the left side only.. could I just get 2 of those or is the right side different? I need the 5 bolt axles to match the VLSD I just bought.

Thanks for any help.

Please PM

[Irresistible]

Are "Prestone" fluids any good? Specifically their DOT3 brake fluid and coolant. I need to flush all my fluids so I obviously need new ones. At Nissan 12oz of DOT3 brake fluid is like $6.50, and at Autozone 12oz of Prestone DOT3 brake fluid is $3. So would I get any noticeable advantages by using the Genuine Nissan fluid?

Also, when I flush my radiator, should I buy the 50/50 premixed coolant, or the non-mixed, and mix it myself? Both Prestone products.


Thanks ya'll.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

Are "Prestone" fluids any good? Specifically their DOT3 brake fluid and coolant. I need to flush all my fluids so I obviously need new ones. At Nissan 12oz of DOT3 brake fluid is like $6.50, and at Autozone 12oz of Prestone DOT3 brake fluid is $3. So would I get any noticeable advantages by using the Genuine Nissan fluid?

Also, when I flush my radiator, should I buy the 50/50 premixed coolant, or the non-mixed, and mix it myself? Both Prestone products.


Thanks ya'll.

50/50 should be plenty for chicago weather

As far as brake fluid, i would go with Nissan or ATE. ATE is 12$ for a can of it and lasts 3 years, its pretty good stuff

[nevertheless]

Im trying to figure out what thickness of headgasket to go with? I have a built Sr, stock bore, 270 cams, gt28r .86 ar..lmk if you need anymore info.

[sidewaysil80]

question about corner balancing. i guess it depends on the car/setup...but generally how drastic is the height difference between each of the wheels? i.e. some being higher/lower then others...

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

Are "Prestone" fluids any good? Specifically their DOT3 brake fluid and coolant. I need to flush all my fluids so I obviously need new ones. At Nissan 12oz of DOT3 brake fluid is like $6.50, and at Autozone 12oz of Prestone DOT3 brake fluid is $3. So would I get any noticeable advantages by using the Genuine Nissan fluid?

Also, when I flush my radiator, should I buy the 50/50 premixed coolant, or the non-mixed, and mix it myself? Both Prestone products.


Thanks ya'll.

Garbage.

Nissan went with a POAT formula in 1995 for all their vehicles. It's a Forest Green color. I wouldn't use a "Universal" green even if you had a S13.

I would go with one of these two:
PEAK GLOBAL® LIFETIME® Antifreeze & Coolant
Valvoline.com > Products > Zerex > Antifreeze Zerex > Zerex® Asian Vehicle Antifreeze / Coolant

For Brake fluid if you have to buy at the store.
Valvoline.com > Products > Brake Fluids > DOT 4 Brake Fluid > Valvoline® DOT 3 & 4 Brake Fluid

But, ATE is what I would go with if you can wait to order it or find it locally.

Originally Posted by sidewaysil80

question about corner balancing. i guess it depends on the car/setup...but generally how drastic is the height difference between each of the wheels? i.e. some being higher/lower then others...

If done properly you shouldn't notice a difference at all.

[06sti]

does an s13 clutch pedal fit an s14 I am in the middle of doing a manual swap

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by 06sti

does an s13 clutch pedal fit an s14 I am in the middle of doing a manual swap

No, the spacers are on the firewall on an S13. On the S14 they are on the bracket.

You can buy a S14 clutch pedal bracket and take apart the S13 assembly and put the pedal on the bracket.

[Irresistible]

Originally Posted by chiboy002

50/50 should be plenty for chicago weather

As far as brake fluid, i would go with Nissan or ATE. ATE is 12$ for a can of it and lasts 3 years, its pretty good stuff

Yeah I figured 50/50 should be perfect.

Originally Posted by S14DB

Garbage.

Nissan went with a POAT formula in 1995 for all their vehicles. It's a Forest Green color. I wouldn't use a "Universal" green even if you had a S13.

I would go with one of these two:
PEAK GLOBAL® LIFETIME® Antifreeze & Coolant
Valvoline.com > Products > Zerex > Antifreeze Zerex > Zerex® Asian Vehicle Antifreeze / Coolant

For Brake fluid if you have to buy at the store.
Valvoline.com > Products > Brake Fluids > DOT 4 Brake Fluid > Valvoline® DOT 3 & 4 Brake Fluid

But, ATE is what I would go with if you can wait to order it or find it locally.

How does ATE compare to Nissan fluid? Also, should I get the "Super Blue" brake fluid from them for a daily driven car that is tracked occasionally? And would I be able to use this fluid for my clutch as well?

[WERDdabuilder]

so i replaced my cluster with LEDs. my cluster lights up when i turn the key to the acc/on position. i dont even have to hit the light switch. wont turn off until the car is off(timer). cant figure out why, anyone with some info?
(i changed the 3 #194 and 2 #74)

edit: ok so i changed the two far corner #74 bulbs back to stock but left the main 3 LEDs in and now its normal....
any info on why it would do this?

[Deviance]

help please still have the problems.

Originally Posted by Deviance

Hey everyone,

I need some help with getting my tail lights to work on my 95 S14. I have been searching for the fix for a few weeks now and tried everything I have come across. The problem is that the tail lights don’t come on when I use the headlight switch for night driving. Also my turn signals don’t work with the headlight switch but the fronts work only with the hazard lights. The threads I have found have more then the tail lights not working. Everything works in the car but the tail lights and rear turn signals. Any help from you guys would be great.


Things I have replaced or checked:
New working headlight switch
Put in new 10a fuses for tail lights and turn signals.
Put in new bulbs for tail lights and brake lights (1156 and 1157) and turn signals (168).
Used electric tape on all open wires.
Checked ground t16 for tail lights.

[06sti]

Originally Posted by S14DB

No, the spacers are on the firewall on an S13. On the S14 they are on the bracket.

You can buy a S14 clutch pedal bracket and take apart the S13 assembly and put the pedal on the bracket.

i thought if you use like 1 1/2" spacers on the studs that go through the firewall it should work... no?

[06sti]

Originally Posted by Deviance

help please still have the problems.

i have kind of the same issue going on but only my passenger side rear tail wont work and the high mount brake light stays on sometimes and when i hit the brake my drls and cluster lights come on.

id like to know about that too.. probably a bad ground touching somewhere?

[arj]

ok so my tranny rear seal was leaking then i replaced it with new one after two days starts leaking again and the real seal i got from autozone should i buy a new oem one or replace something else but its leaking from the rear seal i just cheacked it. TIA

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by arj

ok so my tranny rear seal was leaking then i replaced it with new one after two days starts leaking again and the real seal i got from autozone should i buy a new oem one or replace something else but its leaking from the rear seal i just cheacked it. TIA

How are you driving the seal on?

I found the aftermarket oil seals for the mains and tail are junk. I would order a Nissan one.

[arj]

ok thanks! what do you mean by how im driving the seal on?

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

Yeah I figured 50/50 should be perfect.

How does ATE compare to Nissan fluid? Also, should I get the "Super Blue" brake fluid from them for a daily driven car that is tracked occasionally? And would I be able to use this fluid for my clutch as well?

NewCelica.org Forum - View Single Post - ATE 200 vs. Valvoline synpower vs Motul 5.1 brake fluids?

i would bet on it that the Nissan OEM isn't much of a performance fluid, so it might have a fairly low boiling point. If you're going to do HARD driving on the car then go with the higher stuff, but to be honest at 12$ i would do it anyways, $12 is pocket change compared to other car parts, and brakes are important.

ATE + Quality Pads and you are golden, i need new pads this year - suggestions?

I want something that will lock up but also that will last - daily/weekend warrior so i don't want a lot of brake dust everywhere or squeaks... suggestions?


ALSO: My coolant is a brown color, it might be a headgasket - i haven't checked the compression yet, but what else can it be? Original radiator that i plan on replacing soon is still in, and it has some orange/brown paste-like stuff coming out of it sometimes, but i figured it was the HG since my coolant disappears over time?

Koyorad + oem waterpump and thermostat. That is fine, right? Stock ka24de

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by arj

ok thanks! what do you mean by how im driving the seal on?

How are you installing it?

Originally Posted by chiboy002

NewCelica.org Forum - View Single Post - ATE 200 vs. Valvoline synpower vs Motul 5.1 brake fluids?

i would bet on it that the Nissan OEM isn't much of a performance fluid, so it might have a fairly low boiling point. If you're going to do HARD driving on the car then go with the higher stuff, but to be honest at 12$ i would do it anyways, $12 is pocket change compared to other car parts, and brakes are important.

ATE + Quality Pads and you are golden, i need new pads this year - suggestions?

I want something that will lock up but also that will last - daily/weekend warrior so i don't want a lot of brake dust everywhere or squeaks... suggestions?


ALSO: My coolant is a brown color, it might be a headgasket - i haven't checked the compression yet, but what else can it be? Original radiator that i plan on replacing soon is still in, and it has some orange/brown paste-like stuff coming out of it sometimes, but i figured it was the HG since my coolant disappears over time?

Koyorad + oem waterpump and thermostat. That is fine, right? Stock ka24de

After everything I have tried I like the Hawk HPS the most for the 240 brakes. If you have 300zx brakes I would look at the Performance Friction Z-Frictions.
The Hawk HP+ I thought would be better then the HPS. They did grab harder but their cold performance was undesirable if not scary. They would squeal and brake like crap then get up to temperature suddenly. They also dusted like crazy.

What coolant are you running and when have you changed it?

[Irresistible]

^^^ Did you like the Hawk HPS for the rear better than Project Mu D1 spec rear pads? If you've tried both of course.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by Irresistible

^^^ Did you like the Hawk HPS for the rear better than Project Mu D1 spec rear pads? If you've tried both of course.

I've only Used the Type NS from Project Mu. I liked them a lot but they were more expensive(+50%) then the HPS. I am tempted to use them on my next setup but I will have a lot more options with the 300zx setup.

[Irresistible]

Originally Posted by S14DB

I've only Used the Type NS from Project Mu. I liked them a lot but they were more expensive(+50%) then the HPS. I am tempted to use them on my next setup but I will have a lot more options with the 300zx setup.

Alright cool. Thanks. I think I'm gonna go with Hawk HPS for the front and Semi-metallic ones from Autozone for the rear for the time being... because I can't afford to spend $130 on the Project Mu D1 spec rear pads.

[chiboy002]

Originally Posted by S14DB

After everything I have tried I like the Hawk HPS the most for the 240 brakes. If you have 300zx brakes I would look at the Performance Friction Z-Frictions.
The Hawk HP+ I thought would be better then the HPS. They did grab harder but their cold performance was undesirable if not scary. They would squeal and brake like crap then get up to temperature suddenly. They also dusted like crazy.

What coolant are you running and when have you changed it?

sweet, a follow up on Irresistible's question, do the project mu pads wear out fast? I assumed most performance one's dusted up a lot and wore out fast

-------
coolant wise i just bought a gallon(?) of Napa premix since i didn't have the money on me. I replaced it with that, and have been filling up with it. It's really crappy though, it looks so watered down like 30/70 instead of 50/50

-------
when swapping to 5lug on s13, i didn't change brakes nor do i plan on doing so anytime soon, what rotor should i buy? would s14 ones be ok?

[180wanabe1]

^^yeah s14 ones work just fine.

[rat240]

So I was going to make a thread but I didn't

now for the problem I'm having so about a week ago wanted to go for a drive in my 240
so yeah pressed unlock on my alarm then I go ahead a d turn the key car felt as if the battery was low on power so I gave it more gas and it fired right up so I go to pump so gas after that tried to start the car for a good minute so at that moment i was for sure the battery was done . So i went to my 240 removed the battery tried to turn it on but it was clicking
Then suddenly the clicking sound was gone tested the battery on the other car it fired right up so now it was for sure the starter. Next day removed it took it to AutoZone they said it does not work so i got mine rebuilt. Installed it back in my car and now it has a very faint click sound almost like a relay clicking so i go ahead and remove the starter relay and ignition switch from the running car and it still just clicks

So I'm still searching but if any one has or has the knowledge please help me

Also the car has a 3 Month old alternator and i changed the ground wire