The fabrication thread.

[shiftdrift]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

For frames do u use 120 wall? What type of steel? My next build is a ratrod something convertible from the late 20s or early 30s I wanted to make my frame from scratch but I have never done anything of that magnitude, and recommendations? Specs for a frame? Or forums? And also do u pull or push while mig welding those frames?

Yeah usually .120. Just mild steel since we paint the frames. We can build you one I pull when mig welding. Just look around on some hot rod forums.

[atutt]

Mig and Metal Core = Push

Stick and Flux Core = Pull/Drag

You'll hear so many "it doesn't matter" statements, but those are the proper techniques.

[godrifttoday]

Dammit, I been dragging most of the time although, I do like the look I get from pulling

Originally Posted by shiftdrift

Yeah usually .120. Just mild steel since we paint the frames. We can build you one I pull when mig welding. Just look around on some hot rod forums.

Build me one how much does that usually run? I would just need dimensions and I could do my owner like a write up. Never done one but wouldn't mine trying

[atutt]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

Dammit, I been dragging most of the time although, I do like the look I get from pulling



Build me one how much does that usually run? I would just need dimensions and I could do my owner like a write up. Never done one but wouldn't mine trying

With stick and flux core welding you MUST, absolutely MUST pull/drag.
Metal core you MUST push.

Mig does work both ways. However, the proper technique is to push.
Solid wire mig doesn't penetrate the base metal very well compared to all the other types of processes. If you search around you can find some cut away's and you'll see what I mean. Mig doesn't penetrate worth a shit (in comparison).

When you push mig, the theory is that you are allowing the arc to slightly burn ahead and that the wire is "digging" into the material better. Therefore giving a more penetrating weld. Whereas when you pull mig, it doesn't burn in as effectively.

Now, if you are doing thin parts, IE 0.120'' thick stuff, you're not likely to notice any significant difference other than appearance.

But if you were doing, lets say a structural test piece, and you dragged you mig, you would almost certainly fail.

But solid wire mig certifications are a joke and a waste of time for most people, lol.

[godrifttoday]

I usually preheat the metal first then weld .

[shiftdrift]

I passed my certification tests while pulling mig lol. I hold the gun at like a 20* angle though

[atutt]

Canadian certs are different than US. Ours are harder. I keep forgetting that.

Our plates have only one bevelled side and the sngle on the other side 35* if I'm not mistaken. We also have to do 2 or 3 stop-starts... It's really gay...

[180wanabe1]

Hey question that i can't seem to find an answer to. I'm fabricating my own power steering reservoir and i can't seem to find if i need a vented or sealed cap. anyone who knows of a good looking filler neck/cap let me know. thanks

[brainfood]

^ sealed cap. Most likely a vented cap will boil over.

[TheBlackNasty]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

Why don't u start fabing on your own?

I really want to, but i need to get a new tig machine at my house (i do work for a private company) and a band saw. my friend just got a bridge port machine in his place so i can get custom machine parts then a friend of mine is gonna let me use his hatch KA to do a kit on, im thinking a sweet y into y into top mount twin scroll! and custom front mount up to a sweet manifold. then blueprint the set up and replicate for $$$$$ what do you guys think?? im thinking also using some one else's header to cut cost, ie. megan top mount.

[TheBlackNasty]

Originally Posted by jdm styles

ya because you have skills son

Thanks man! i appreciate the props

Originally Posted by Otto347

I take it you work in the private industry? Just curious what do they pay you for that work?

ya non-union, i feel under valued as far as my skill to what im being paid at this shop, they give me 18/hour but other welders in the shop are at 28 to 32... im not gonna compare myself to them because thats a weakness in professionalism, but for the quality of my work and the dedication i have (and i have a mortgage to pay) i feel like i deserve better. all of that is why i want to work for a motorsports shop so even if they cant afford to pay me what i want, it will be more than what i get now, and ill love doing it!

[TheBlackNasty]

Originally Posted by TheBlackNasty

Thanks man! i appreciate the props

ya non-union, i feel under valued as far as my skill to what im being paid at this shop, they give me 18/hour but other welders in the shop are at 28 to 32... im not gonna compare myself to them because thats a weakness in professionalism, but for the quality of my work and the dedication i have (and i have a mortgage to pay) i feel like i deserve better. all of that is why i want to work for a motorsports shop so even if they cant afford to pay me what i want, it will be more than what i get now, and ill love doing it!

i cant lie tho, my parts are Damn good and most of the time better than the rest

[codyace]

One of my good buddies has a local fab shop. He can pretty much weld anything, but his speciality is putting roll cages into various Porsches. He's a mad man and a fantastic fabricator. (For northeast guys Does the primary fab work for Dawes Motorsports, and used to do work for Deman before they hired an house guy)

Anywho, here are some pictures from a recent GT3 996. Customer wanted the cage tight to the chassis, but not overly obtrusive in vision. This seems to work. It's not over the top, but still a quality piece.

Edit: Don't mind the tilted supertrapps on the exhaust tips, that's to pass Db requirements at Limerock Park

[Black240Ct]

^^ needs more gussets

[Zacho]

RB Manifold I'm building, all runners are very close in length.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by Black240Ct

^^ needs more gussets

The top 4 points are?

[thefro526]

Originally Posted by codyace

The top 4 points are?

If they're not dimple-died then they're not baller enough. :P (Although, is a tube stronger? I would imagine it is, but without running some numbers, I can't be sure)

Ace, Was that cage attached to the A or B Pillar anywhere?

[bb4_96]

Not sure if it's been covered in here but who is everyone using for suppliers? I've found burns to be the best quality stuff and Ace is cheapest. I don't imagine most have a madrel bender at their disposal.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by thefro526

If they're not dimple-died then they're not baller enough. :P (Although, is a tube stronger? I would imagine it is, but without running some numbers, I can't be sure)

Ace, Was that cage attached to the A or B Pillar anywhere?

LOL! I kind of assumed it was in reference to the the lack dimple die pieces. I forget the actual classing of these cars, but you're actually not allowed to weld them too the pillars, so the goal is to get them as close as you can/almost touching. The tubes are actually much stronger than the little sheet metal tacos/trinagles. He's had a few guys really smash the cars up, all have held up perfectly so it must work somehow haha.

On a serperate note, I personally think some of those gusset looking things are kinda tacky...IMO it lets the cage guy too much leeway in the construction, as he can jut put a big plate with holes in and and call it a day.

Here is an example of a customer that literally wanted contact:





Only on the base of the pillars is it welded. I don't have a super good shot of them, but here you can see the B pillar base and how it was setup

[vas570sx]

nothing much, just a trans mount i made to adapt my t5 transmission to the s14 chassis.

[onehundredoctane]

my God, if I ever have a cage put in the S13 I want it to fit that tightly.

[hb24drftr]

Put together some shock mounts to add a bypass shock to this offroad buggy.

[Chamb-O]

Originally Posted by bb4_96

Not sure if it's been covered in here but who is everyone using for suppliers? I've found burns to be the best quality stuff and Ace is cheapest. I don't imagine most have a madrel bender at their disposal.

I use vibrant for all of my aluminum and sch
all of my 304 j bends I get locally, we have a mandrel bender in town

[Super_OK_S13]

codyace- is this the shop near dillsburg, or maybe it was chambersburg, pa? if so, one of my friends works there part time helping the shop owner out.

[codyace]

Originally Posted by tek18b_jimmy

codyace- is this the shop near dillsburg, or maybe it was chambersburg, pa? if so, one of my friends works there part time helping the shop owner out.

Nope, it's up in Stroudsburg PA/Poconos where I'm at.

[180wanabe1]

Just found mandrel-bends.com killer deals, they do custom water jet flanges for a good price to!

[blu808]

hb24drftr: Gorgeous

[SpuGen]

Originally Posted by atutt

Canadian certs are different than US. Ours are harder. I keep forgetting that.

Our plates have only one bevelled side and the sngle on the other side 35* if I'm not mistaken. We also have to do 2 or 3 stop-starts... It's really gay...

30* Bevel.
2 Stop Starts. One on the Square, and one on the Bevel.

CWB Inspectors are such cunts. I was under spec 1/8th for a crack on my square Stop/start, for my 3G. Got dinged.
It's my own fault really, I didn't burn back enough on the restart. But still.
Everything else was mintyyyy and I got dinged.
So now I have 3 tickets. 1 for Flux, and 2 for stick.

[atutt]

Originally Posted by SpuGen

30* Bevel.
2 Stop Starts. One on the Square, and one on the Bevel.

CWB Inspectors are such cunts. I was under spec 1/8th for a crack on my square Stop/start, for my 3G. Got dinged.
It's my own fault really, I didn't burn back enough on the restart. But still.
Everything else was mintyyyy and I got dinged.
So now I have 3 tickets. 1 for Flux, and 2 for stick.

I was close. It's been a while since I've had to do any CWB testing.

I don't know who your instructor was, but he was lenient. I've only ever been allowed 1/32'' in any errors.

I had my all positions, TIG, Stick, Flux/Metal Core. And then my TSSA (Pressure vessel) certs...

[hb24drftr]

Originally Posted by blu808

hb24drftr: Gorgeous

Thanks Luke. There's about 2 weeks worth of hours in those things from design, to completed product. But they came out bitchin'.