1UZFE into S-Chassis

[turtle m3th]

You're welcome... LOL

[zenkiset]

Looking good ingmar! I'm using the same radiator and fans in my swap. Mine required a lot of burping the system like turtle said. At first I blamed the overheating just bc it was Isis. Just let it run. Keep filling it with water til you can't anymore lol. Mine stays at a nice consistent temperature now. Don't be dumb and forget it's a dual core radiator like I did and almost fry the engine lol.

[badass8]

Those of you with an s13 running KA trans and Brett Collins engine mounts I need some advice.
I was trying to bolt in and align the engine/trans by myself today and Brett says the transmission cross-member is suppose to bolt up to the rear bolts of the chassis. But this is all I could get today and I don't like the out come:

I was able to get one of the rear bolts onto the transmission cross-member. But on the other side I could only the middle bolt of the cross-member onto the rear of the chassis. The motor mounts do line up but the engine does rock back and forth at the moment since it isn't bolted up yet. I could bolt it up ,but I don't really feel comfortable of how the cross-member is placed.

[Fries]

Your mounts are not on the engine crossmember well. When properly seated, the engine will not rock back and forth. Double check that you can ACTUALLY put bolts through the engine mounts -> crossmember.

[turtle m3th]

Badass8 - I would just bolt that trans up through the alignment hole if I were you. That is already were it appears your motor is lining up at the moment since the trans mount is so damn twisted. I've done one swap were I placed the motor all the way back like that and the engine harness barley fit (it got crushed), I had to put a pretty large dimple in the brake master cylinder, and the driverside header was so close to the firewall that it set the carpet on fire during an event. It'll work and everything, but after doing quite a few of these swaps now, I feel that the service hole places the motor in the "perfect" position as far as ease of installation and servicing goes.

[badass8]

Okay thanks. I tried it earlier and I was able to bolt in the trans crossmember through the middle holes just fine. But when I do it that way the engine mount holes aren't long enough to reach the subframe holes, unless I slot the mounts which I might do.


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[Fries]

Got my first attempt at starting the engine today. Either someone did the timing belt before me and screwed something up or something weird is going on with my dizzys... because I got someback fire outta my intake. Whew, weird.

Thanks turtle for the help so far.

[Fries]

So backfire out the throttle body, bad. Timing issue.
Check out the distributors, notice this wire coming from left side is split open.



Clean and tape her up, connect battery and attempt start.
Bam, will stay alive with giving it throttle. Good enough for me. Time to order an intake to connect the Maf.

[Raysboostin]

hello all,
what a great read! lots of helpful info here. ive just recently started this conversion on my missle car. although im doing a few things differently.
im using a toyota gearbox with a bullet cars conversion bellhousing. i also got a whole sc400 to take the engine from, so im going to use as much of the toyota wiring as possible because my missle car came with 0 wiring.

[Jifter]

Fries,
My engine doesnt idle at all when cold either. I dont think my IACV is working at all. I cheated and manually cracked the throttle plate open by shortening the cable a bit. I got it to idle around 5-600rpm when warm. If I tighten the cable more, the idle rpm doesnt seem to go higher. Im no sure why the IACV isnt working... Do any of you have this problem aswell

[MiamiZ33]

Turtle, what is the deal with your throwout bearing setup? Mine has been making some noise for a while now. My 3rd gear is grinding too, so I'm going to have to rebuild by CD009 trans, but it's been difficult to find rebuild kits.

I might as well pull the tranny to rebuild it and do the TO bearing at the same time.

[sarhd]

Decided to stick with my CA so all my 1u swap parts from turtle are for sale. Have the exhaust manifolds, motor and trans mount, throwout bearing; also have the collins pilot bearing adaptor new in box, clutch and flywheel setup(act flywheel and act 3sgte pressure plate) arp flywheel bolts. If any interest lmk

[badass8]

Fries you were right, the damn engine was rocking on the steering rack. So I purchased some washers and that did the trick. My hood closes as well so it worked out. I still need to slot my trans crossmember though.

[imperium]

i had that same issue but i used half hockey pucks inbetween the mount and the subframe, although it made wiggling the motor around fairly annoying i think i would do it the way you did if i have the motor out again

[Fries]

Dude badass8 I think you need to double check how the engine is sitting on the cross member. Are you sure its perfectly aligned

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[badass8]

Originally Posted by Fries

Dude badass8 I think you need to double check how the engine is sitting on the cross member. Are you sure its perfectly aligned

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Yeah it looks good now. Shifter is aligned perfectly as well. Engine doesn't move what so ever. I checked the engine mount bolts and they are the exact same location on each side. At the moment I am just having issues bolting up the SOHC power steering to the 1uz pump.

[Jifter]

To get the sohc lines to reach, you need to un-bolt them from the xmember.

[shoguner]

Don't know if i ever posted this.

Got mine running wonderfully, first time i've had a tach in 3 years haha.

[zenkiset]

Hey guys. My bonehead thought the starter would be ok and didn't replace it before putting the engine in. So it shit on me... Does anyone know if you can replace it without dropping the tranny? I have the Brett Collins adapter and it's making this damn near impossible.

[Drifting Kalamari]

remove the intake manifold and you should be able to get at it. Still a B*tch though!

[zenkiset]

I've had the take off haha. I couldn't imagine trying to get it out without having it off lol. But yeah I it it out. It was just a total bitch. Called it a night. Still got a ways to go tightening the new one on. Possible, just time consuming.

[Fries]

Originally Posted by zenkiset

I've had the take off haha. I couldn't imagine trying to get it out without having it off lol. But yeah I it it out. It was just a total bitch. Called it a night. Still got a ways to go tightening the new one on. Possible, just time consuming.

That blows. I'm hoping mine holds up considering it was... grinding on the bellhousing while attempting to start. I've already removed the trans and thinned out the bellhousing some more.

Dudes, for your alternator fuse, did you have to just connect the two wires from the preexisting fuse and utilize another fuse block with a 120a fuse or did your 75A work fine?

[MiamiZ33]

Dudes, I popped open my radiator cap and the water was low. So I filled it up through the bolt near the thermostat. I let it run for a while with the bolt out and the rad cap off so it could burp. Water started expanding at about 160-degrees and coming out of the rad cap, so I put it back on but left the burpy hole open... let it run until the water came out of the burpy hole, then I put the bolt back in. Am I done?

Also I am not currently running an overflow bottle, do you guys think this is a problem? What are you guys running?

After I filled it up, the temperature seemed fine. Stayed around 185 with the fans on. Turn the fans off, and it would go up to 195 or so, then I flipped the fans on and it would come down to around 180-185 but wouldn't go lower than that.

[MiamiZ33]

Originally Posted by Fries

That blows. I'm hoping mine holds up considering it was... grinding on the bellhousing while attempting to start. I've already removed the trans and thinned out the bellhousing some more.

Dudes, for your alternator fuse, did you have to just connect the two wires from the preexisting fuse and utilize another fuse block with a 120a fuse or did your 75A work fine?

Fries, I have my alternator running through an 80A MIDI fuse block.

[Fries]

Originally Posted by MiamiZ33

Dudes, I popped open my radiator cap and the water was low. So I filled it up through the bolt near the thermostat. I let it run for a while with the bolt out and the rad cap off so it could burp. Water started expanding at about 160-degrees and coming out of the rad cap, so I put it back on but left the burpy hole open... let it run until the water came out of the burpy hole, then I put the bolt back in. Am I done?

Also I am not currently running an overflow bottle, do you guys think this is a problem? What are you guys running?

After I filled it up, the temperature seemed fine. Stayed around 185 with the fans on. Turn the fans off, and it would go up to 195 or so, then I flipped the fans on and it would come down to around 180-185 but wouldn't go lower than that.

The Kiwis and Aussies seem to think that the normal operating temp is from 194F-205F.

I'd say you're probably fine.

[Drifting Kalamari]

Definitely put in an overflow tank! without the tank your radiator fluid will run low, unless you sealed off the nipple by the rad cap.

[Sezio]

Damn I had no idea of this thread lol... Great work for everyone who done the swap or is in the works. My boy Turtle has been active in this and I wasn't aware haha. Great job everyone! here's a little info on my swap. I also do full swap services if anyone is interested... http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=511697

[88Coupe]

At a snag. I have an koyo sr rad. With the ka trans I can't seem to fit hoses in there. Any ideas??


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[imperium]

did you mount yours with the stock driveshaft?
using the short shaft my stock LS400 hoses fit fine they just needed mild trimming

[88Coupe]

The shifter is in the stock location, don't have the driveshaft in yet.


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