S15 Mazworx SR23VET

[future]

Now get a tune without something blowing up

[R4Race]

Anyway just some pics of the new shoes, thanks to boostbus and devil cef for lending a hand today.

18x10.5 -3





18x10.5 -8







With the addition of the camber bolts, I would take a guess that the camber is sitting at around -5 deg.

[Beckett300]

Very nice, love that front camber, looking mean!!

[tricky_ab]

The new wheels are looking good

[SmokeCircle]

All i want is to see you ripping it at some race track already. great build man!

[Pinggg]

Looks good man!

[jr_ss]

Originally Posted by silvia?

All i want is to see you ripping it at some race track already. great build man!

Exactly! Less talking, more burnouts...

[brndck]

Oh man AME TM-02 are one of my all time favorite wheels. I just wish they came in 17" too.

[Tle1993]

s15 is amazing!! very very clean and nice!

[Tuckedin]

Great work! Nice build!

[T.O.D.]

Killer build! In for dyno updates..

[lunyS14]

wow! amazing! nice s15!

[R4Race]

Think it's about time there some update to this thread. Like I had said this year is pretty much sorting out the gearbox, brake, suspension etc. Got pretty much everything done bar some small things.

Gearbox

This is by far the most troublesome. Since I didn't want to spend mega dollar for a temporary setup, so got talking to a no. of ppl about different setups and also in talks with ppl who had gearboxes forsale. After about two months finally I decided to go with the Z32 gearbox conversion kit from Alpha Omega which to me is the most feasible since most other options had run dry. Now there had been alot of talk both -ve and +ve about this kit and also of Wing in general, but in my opinion I found Wing to be reasonable good to deal with and also his kit is of good standard. There were a few small mishaps in the begining but were all very quickly rectify.

However the kit wasn't a straight bolt in as it was make out to be on the website. Only after receiving the kit and the instruction manual did we realized that one we needed to machine off 5mm the snout of the front cover, two machine off 5mm of the spigot bush and lastly drill another hole on the bellhousing to accept an M10 bolt to adapter plate. Luckily that Taark is a machinist so it's not too much of a trouble for us, but it would be abit more troublesome for others. The other things that really of my doing is that the gearbox that I had didn't come with the stock shifter linkage, which you will need to press out the shifter linkage bearings to be used with the AO shifter linkage. Ended up getting a brand new striking rod from nissan so we can press out the new bearings. Lastly in the process I found out that the megan racing Z32 quick shifter is not compatible with the AO shifter linkage so ended up buying the AO one.

Presently the gearbox and AO conversion kit hasn't given me any problem, the only thing that i can fault it with is the shifter bracket sit quite close to the passenger transmission tunnel (like 2mm of clearance), we didn't realised this until the gearbox is already in so will see how it go. Hopefully there not too much movement since we using the cusco mount. One good thing though is that we able to reuse our brand new nismo sr20 clutch slave cylinder.

Onto some much needed photos!

Forgot to take photos so only have a few pics of the AO kit, I brought the conversion kit, the quick shift and also AO single piece 3.25 inch tailshaft.



















Next up brake upgrade.

[sr20detpl510]

Sweet!
I Believe I am going to have to do a tranny upgrade as well after I break in my SR23DET built by Mazworx. I am running a stock tranny for now during break in and will deal with it after it blows... and it will blow..... hahaha

[R4Race]

For years the stock s15 brake with upgraded Endless pads and racing fluid has serve me well. When one day I got an opportunity to sit in one of a mate with an R34 gtr running a complete set of endless racing brake kit and actually feeling sick from the braking force, I thought to myself I gotta have that. Forward a few years later, another opportunity arrive when another mate was looking for a new home for his unneeded complete Alcon brake kit at a very reasonable price...well the rest is history. Front brake was easy enough to get on with not much mucking around. Spec are 6 pots with 365mm disc, ds2500 brake pads and goodridge brake lines. With the old wheel, damit time for new wheels. With the new wheel, lots more clearance. New mounting point for the Goodridge brake lines. The rear was much more troublesome, at first we attempt to remove the backing plate properly by removing the hub assembly. But after a number of tries we resource to trimming them with an angle grinder as the most accessible option, turn out quite neat. Also since the car don't see the street that often so I opted not to run the handbrake assemble from the skyline. This would have add a fair bit of weight to the rear nor do I go with the hydraulic handbrake (we'll see never say never). Spec are 4 pots with 335mm disc, ds2500 pads and goodridge brake lines. Backing plate all nice and trimmed. Rear brake line Currently we running a BMC 57 off an R33 GTR, not the most ideal but we'll see how the brake bias go. Since we running all braided hose and -an fitting, so we got an s13 brake booster restrictor to replace the s15 rubber one. With the removal of the ABS unit and it lines, we were able to run the brake lines more discreetly. Taark make up some new lines to go with s13 brake lines with a T-piece for the front brake lines.

[R4Race]

Originally Posted by sr20detpl510

Sweet!
I Believe I am going to have to do a tranny upgrade as well after I break in my SR23DET built by Mazworx. I am running a stock tranny for now during break in and will deal with it after it blows... and it will blow..... hahaha

You will find that it's the torque that break the gearbox, mine break while on the dyno at 6000rpm. And nice little project you got going too, alway have a thing for these retro car, so little weight for so much power.

[future]

The brakes are the sex

[R4Race]

Originally Posted by future

The brakes are the sex

Thanks man.

[R4Race]

Being the lazy ass that I am and couldn't find any spare time to work on the car, I sent the car to my mate at Centrax auto. While it was there I got them to work on the setting of the suspension and install some of the arms that I recently purchased. Originally the zeal coilover came with F9kg and R7kg springs, which I found was very harsh for the road surfaces that I used to drive on, so we swapped out to a F7kg and R4kg. Now with the new wheels being much more wider and lower offset the pivot points change dramatically that we opted to put back the higher spring rates, hopefully this will eliminate some of the sluggish rebound that I been experiencing. Few months back I also got some suspension arms from SPL to replace the worn out china crap tension rods that I had. And while at WTAC also score some GKtech lock out kit, since JdmObsession didn't have them in stock. Was contemplating about purchasing Ikeya formula lower control arms, but after seeing how quick the Scorch s15 run on pretty standard arms I decided to leave it for now. Front tension rods, I opted not to run their brake air guide so we put some bolts that came supplied to strengthen the rods. Rear toe rods Rear traction rods Camber bolts

[jdizzy204]

Maybe I missed it but what are you doing for a parking brake since you upgraded to the alcons?

[R4Race]

Originally Posted by jdizzy204

Maybe I missed it but what are you doing for a parking brake since you upgraded to the alcons?

Well I did have three choices, one is to run a skyline handbrake setup but that would mean a fair bit of extra weight on the rear assembly, two I could run a hydraulic setup, however I chose option three which to not run anything at all. Reason behind it is that the car is not setup for drift nor does it see the street that often so a handbrake is not something I worry too much.

[godrifttoday]

Hey what z32 tranny you use ? The na or the Twin turbo ? If I'm not mistaken the starter location is different sides? Which one would I need 4 a ka24de?

[sr20detpl510]

Originally Posted by R4Race

You will find that it's the torque that break the gearbox, mine break while on the dyno at 6000rpm. And nice little project you got going too, always have a thing for these retro car, so little weight for so much power.

Ya, I will hopefully be getting nearly 390lbs of torque with my current setup.

Here is a link to my build thread. let me know what you think...

SR23DET Datsun 510

[R4Race]

Originally Posted by godrifttoday

Hey what z32 tranny you use ? The na or the Twin turbo ? If I'm not mistaken the starter location is different sides? Which one would I need 4 a ka24de?

These are good questions...I have no ideas. Sorry can't help you there.

[R4Race]

Originally Posted by sr20detpl510

Ya, I will hopefully be getting nearly 390lbs of torque with my current setup.

Here is a link to my build thread. let me know what you think...

SR23DET Datsun 510

Looking good mate, when are you expect to turn key?

[R4Race]

Back in August we went down to WTAC in Sydney for the weekend, what an awesome event. It was my third events that I have spectated, the first time was back in 2009 when it was held at the now non-existed Oran Park raceway. While we down there, we catch up with James from SX development and got shown around the pits abit ( it ashame this year that you are not allow to be in the pit like last year, which to me dampen the atmosphere abit). Anyway James show us the main reason why they pull the plug on WTAC and rendering them to spectate this year.
Their Mazworx intake manifold developed hairline fractures along the welds of 1st and 2nd runners, and over the course of the day we found out that there were two other cars with the same issue. After coming back from Sydney, I went over the car throroughly and to my disappointment mine also showing sign of hairline crack within 1st runner. Not as bad as what on James' car, but I was really dishearted since we meant to take the car out to the track the following week. Got in touch with Mazworx regarding the issue, and was told that they willing to fix it at their own expense. But that would mean that i have to sent the manifold off to one of their affiliated workshop here in Australia. Eventually I opted for them to sent me their newly developed manifold bracing kit, and got Taark to helped with fixing the problem. Originally we only rewelded the known crack in the 1st runner, but after getting it back I found out that there was a tiny 2mm crack in the 3rd runner as well, so ended up welding over the rest of the joints.

Just the 1st runner rewelded



Provision for the brace



Taark tap this to take an M6 screw, this will be used to have another brace to go down into the alternator.



All the joints rewelded



The brace connected to the engine using one of the bolt of the engine bracket, now everything is so tight around there.

[sr20detpl510]

Originally Posted by R4Race

Looking good mate, when are you expect to turn key?

I am slowing down on it for right now cause of the upcoming holidays.
Financially I need to prepare for a wallet beating on Black Friday and for Christmas and New Years Eve...
Also, If I spread out the build across more paychecks, I won't be forced to cut corners and go with cheaper lower quality parts...
I expect to turn the key in the Feb/March time frame...

[R4Race]

Back in August while we were down in Sydney for WTAC, I treated myself to some nice goodies in the form of Sparco seude steering wheel and 3inch 4point harness. Seeing that a couple of my mates running work bell quick releases and boss kits and get to see first hand the quality of the products. I then made a purchase of work bell standard boss and work bell rapfix gtc hybrid tilting quick release. Currently waiting for the delivery of the works bell gears from the Tunersgroup, hopefully they will arrive within the next week.


Sparco seuded steering wheel





Sparco 3inch 4points harness,





S15 standard boss kit



Works Bell Rapfix GTC hybrid tilting quick release.

[R4Race]

Managed to get some free time to myself over the weekend in like the last 5 months. So I thought I might tidied up the interior abit, since I would like to drive it on the street again whenever I can.





As per previous pics of the gearbox conversion, the shifter position is quite close to the passenger side of the shifter cover and would fouled when in first or second gears. So I decided to trim the shifter cover since that at least will give it a more stock look.







Once that was done I found that it still fouled while in 1st and 2nd gears











So reluctantly I have to resource to trimming it further.



1st gear







2nd gear







Was reasonably happy with the result.











Also managed to fitted up the harness.

[irritatedmax]

What's causing it to mount off center like that?