The fabrication thread.

[landins13]

Originally Posted by onehundredoctane

Before I start trying to make my own caliper bracket, can anyone tell me if they've seen adapter brackets to put Wilwoods on the back of an S chassis? I'm NOT looking to run dual calipers, just want to replace the oem calpier all together and upgrade.

ASD S13 4 Piston Rear Brake Upgrade Kit

[onehundredoctane]

Originally Posted by landins13

ASD S13 4 Piston Rear Brake Upgrade Kit

I knew they had the 4 caliper rear kit, didn't know they had this, THANKS! Now my problem is I already have those exact calipers, might call them to see if they will sale just the adatpers. Also noticed this. . .

Availability:
Not for Sale

[brainfood]

Originally Posted by ch1873857

you dont plan on using a parking brake? seriously gonna rely on keeping the car in gear? in a daily? good luck..

thats the point of using the stock handle instead of a normal hydro because you can use a drift button and the stock ratchet lock so you can still have a parking brake pretty easily plus it looks stock.

[TTnickdizzle]

[Ichiban4]

Originally Posted by Jonnie Fraz

Here is the one we did for my friends track car. It is pretty simple .120 wall DOM tubing bent on the ends and a jack point in the center. It is bolted to the stock bumper points and it is fine for jacking the car. The center jack point is just above the bumper profile so it looks like we jack it from the bumper...lol.

Hey guys I am looking into making a similar crash bar/jack point for my car. I am getting really tired of driving on boards so this would help a lot. We have a local steel store and I have a flux/mig I have been practicing on.

I want to go with square tubing my question is what thickness is a good enough size to support jacking the car up with? He said .120 which is about 8 gauge. Is that a good size to use? Can I go smaller/bigger easily?

Thank you for you help.

[ch1873857]

Originally Posted by brainfood

thats the point of using the stock handle instead of a normal hydro because you can use a drift button and the stock ratchet lock so you can still have a parking brake pretty easily plus it looks stock.

so you are relying on hydraulic pressure over extended periods of time to keep your car parked.. thus the reason hydraulic lifts have locks. why leaving an engine hoisted overnight will be on the floor in the morning. OK man.. you got it...

anyway .. sponsored a good buddy of mine. he races a 2001 e46 BMW with a 1JZ drivetrain. I fabricated the engine and trans mounts to make it possible. for free..




made of all 3/16 & 1/4" steel. fits perfect !

[--Redwork--]

Thats some freaking long mounts.. That would have to be applying some crazy stress to the side of the block with that much levarage

[brainfood]

Just picked up a new welder for my personal shop, it welds super nice pretty happy with the purchase.

[Not You]

Just picked up my new 200DX . Lots of rad stuff going to happen with this guy!

[blu808]

I'm happy you got the 200dx. It is a great welder!

[UNISA JECS]

Originally Posted by Not You

Just picked up my new 200DX . Lots of rad stuff going to happen with this guy!

Nice I bought one of those not so long ago proably only have about 20 hours of pratice on it if that, awesome machine!

[UNISA JECS]

Made these for my P11:

[danee]

One way to do your lexan/plastic windows ! ("How To Guide")



Tools: Jigsaw, finetoothblade, drill / screwdriver, 5mm and 4mm drill, razor knife, straight ruler!



Material: Thicker paper as a template, Masking tape, Pencil, A pair of self-tapping screws. "80" Abrasives. Rivets ALU Steel Diam. 4.0mm 12.3mm length H12



Tip: Thinking before you act! Set the drill / rivet in a system, looks much nicer and thought trew.

Make a template of the frame will be replaced.



Please keep in mind that the panel covers a portion of the window, you may have to make a slightly larger window than the original glass.





Cut out the window from the plastic sheet, preferably at some margin if something must be refined later.



Apply the box to the car, use self-tapping screws to find the right position.



Draw at the inside of the window and around each bodyedge, then put a masking tape stripe width to cut by.







Then paint the black on the windows, scrub the surface a bit and use the paint that is a little "elastic" (plastic friendly paint that dont get bone hard when it dry)





Drill the holes in the window to 5mm and 4mm in the body, to have some adjustment range.



Good tip is to put every other pop rivets at the beginning to rub out the bumps that become.

Measure it one time too much and test mount with self tapping screws preferably one or two times too much!

Better to cut to little then to much, as the lexan is not "cheap"..

____

This is how i did, I dont say this is the only way, but its one way :thumbs:

I Have been using google translate and fixed the problems i seen, but if you see anything thats not right or something (like grammar) please tell me so i can change it

/ D

[onehundredoctane]

TTnickdizzle, that set up turned out pretty awesome! I love hide away stuffs like that!

[conrad_s13.5]

dope how-to!

[OutlawLui]

WACHU know about this?




Customized my peace of shit oil catch can, hope it helps with blow-by because its driving me crazy trying to figure out a good system, so i'm hoping this works as a good breather

[Jonnie Fraz]

Originally Posted by Ichiban4

Hey guys I am looking into making a similar crash bar/jack point for my car. I am getting really tired of driving on boards so this would help a lot. We have a local steel store and I have a flux/mig I have been practicing on.

I want to go with square tubing my question is what thickness is a good enough size to support jacking the car up with? He said .120 which is about 8 gauge. Is that a good size to use? Can I go smaller/bigger easily?

Thank you for you help.

I would go with .120 for the crash bar and the jack point. the struts that go to the jack point you could go a little thinner, like .083-.095" but I find that thickness to be more expensive than the .120.

[TheRealSy90]

Is it possible to do a coupe rear window with one lexan piece? I feel like the curve at the ends will be too much...

[danee]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Is it possible to do a coupe rear window with one lexan piece? I feel like the curve at the ends will be too much...

Yes i think that would be possible.
i used 3mm thick lexan(swedish rules), and its pretty bendable..

maybe you need braces like nascar if its to "sloppy" but one piece i think would work..

[ch1873857]

Originally Posted by --Redwork--

Thats some freaking long mounts.. That would have to be applying some crazy stress to the side of the block with that much levarage

they were engineered directly around the factory mounts but much stronger.. im sure it will be fine. thanks.

[thefro526]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Is it possible to do a coupe rear window with one lexan piece? I feel like the curve at the ends will be too much...

Any Lexan (Polycarbonate) .125" thick and smaller is really easy to bend and shape. Depending on the application and span you might encounter some rigidity issues though. The few times I've used 'thin' lexan (.0625) and smaller and I wanted to elimination some of the flex (hated hearing it flop) I'd try to put the sheet under as much tension as was reasonably possible and it helps quite a bit. Might still need a center brace though.

Depending on the tools you have access to, you could always look into going with a thicker sheet and forming it with heat. I've done 90* bends with .25" thick lexan with ~.25" internal radii with just a heat gun and some patience.

[OutlawLui]

*The center is the size of my battery, the sides are 2'' to help battery stay centered, and a extra 4'' on one end to mount the breaker .


....





Parts Used:

-Small peace of 1/8 aluminum about 20''x20'' at the most.
-150amp breaker from Auto zone.
-Grip material
-1/8 black pvc material to go under breaker, about 4''x4''
-15' Of 2gauge wire from Home depot
-Positive and Negative terminals with plastic covers from Autozone
-Battery hold down kit *just for the long screws
-(4) 3/8 in. 2 gauge copper ring lug *

[D.Adams]

the rear jack point i made last night to finish off the rear bash bar. now bot front and rear bash bars have jack points ..




front bash bar i need to get a new pic i added some tabs and the jack pint.

[PerilousActs]

Anyone have any tips on figuring out angles for multi-plan bends of A-pillars for a roll cage?

[Jonnie Fraz]

Originally Posted by PerilousActs

Anyone have any tips on figuring out angles for multi-plan bends of A-pillars for a roll cage?

Bend-Tech PRO

You might be able to download the trial and get what you need.

[ch1873857]

be aware that its not always exact..

[epik1]

So I'm in sort of a situation and I'd like some input from the smart people of the fab thread.
I bought my car last year, didn't think to look under (well technically over I guess) the headliner. I noticed some leaking from the sunroof, took the headliner out and BAM, found out someone hacked in some sort of sunroof (non-oem).
On top of that, it turns out they cut out a roof support.

Forward to today, I took my car to a reputable body shop to see how much it would be to just pop out the sunroof and weld in sheet metal and put in a reinforcement bar where the old one was (you can see the spot welds that were plugged in the pic)

Cut roof support in line with the b-pillar.

roof by wilwmak, on Flickr
You can see the flex in my roof.

Roof by wilwmak, on Flickr

The conclusion of the conversation with the body shop was that these are my options:
-Replace the entire skin + support bar (pricey!!!)
-Keep re-sealing the leaks
Apparently if I just weld sheet metal back in place of the sunroof, the roof will sink.

I let them know what I want to do with the car:
-not have too much bodywork done because it's the car I'll be throwing around as a learning platform on the track
-tracking
-Daily

What I was thinking was this:
Keep re-sealing or pop out the sunroof and to counter-act the roof sinking/leaking, get some sort of reinforcement bars. I need to daily this car so I don't want to have a full out cage because they're illegal here.
I've been doing some research and I think I need to take the direction of a half-cage, roll-bar, bolt-in half cage or a stealth cage.

Something like this possibly.

I like this one because I don't have to cut interior and there's no bars going across the back for cops to see and my best guess is the roof hoop will help with either sinking if I decide to pop out the sunroof either way will help with lessening chassis flex. (I can hear the glass crackling when I come down my driveway )


I know a bolt-in cage isn't the best for actual rigidity but this is a weekend track car/daily, so I'm doing the best I can...

Any input is very much appreciated.

[punxva]

Built a fuel cell for my car. 17x24x10 baffled, with a VDO fuel level sender, and an aermotive stealth 340 with custom plasma jet cut flanges.

[Mister.E]

that is one big ass fuel cell. very nice work!

[punxva]

Thank you, it is 15 gallons just in case i want to take the car on a long trip.